My first E11-Project

[Marv]

... of corse not!

 

That E-11 looks weird without the counter on it. Eh?

 

BTW, none of your photos are loading bro.

 

Jesse

Thanks Jesse

 

 

Is everyone else having this problem?

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

john,

 

really if you look closely at blasters in the film the counter is basically in the same location on them.

 

you have it too far back away from the mag well.

 

the front edge of the counter is less than an inch away from the mag well. from your photos it looks like the

 

sight rail is too thin, and the counter is too low and too far back.

 

the screw for the scope on the front is basically centered on the same plane as the eagle.

 

the length of the wires, and the position of the counter is easy seen on the wires photo.

 

 

see how close the hengstler, scope and magazine well are?

 

the hengstler overlaps the power cells by almost 1/2" as you can clearly see it's very close and tight grouping.

 

in the leia confronts vader pic the only difference is the scopes in the photo are different, which make the location

 

"LOOK" different in the photo, but actually they are in the same position

Edited June 24, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Marv]

Today I am grinning from ear to ear. I have really got to say a massive, massive thank you to Jesse for this....

 

 

 

 

And a comparison poo against the M38

 

 

And as it will be mounted on the thinner rail...

 

 

 

 

[ObiHahn[TK]]

That is waaaay to far back on that rail.

[TK_LEPER]

Here's some E-11 reference

 

[Marv]

That is waaaay to far back on that rail.

 

I have now moved the scope forward, I still have yet to drill my holes, but I hope you agree this now looks a little closer to the sweet spot.

 

 

 

You also get a similar effect on the underside from this point too:

 

 

Did this hit the spot?

 

 

 

[ObiHahn[TK]]

Much closer to the pic with Han holding the gun, yeah.

[Marv]

After a weekends break I have made very little progress with my build other than to tidy a few issues:

 

I have been forced to create a new bracket for the counter after realisation, an as I originally thought, I had not given enough clearance for the scope beyond the stock. The new one now has a little extra length and actually fits better to the counter itself. The one to the left is the new bracket. I have yet to drill the hole to secure it to the rail.

 

 

I've now also drilled the small rail and another thicker rail, but have not completed the latter. The next image shows how the Counter and an M40 will look attached to the Sterling. Once the hole in the counter bracket is drilled you will not see the back foot.

 

 

Clearance...

 

 

And from above...

 

The thin rail is growing on me, here I think it better shows the width to the front lens.

 

 

I think the next steps will now slow my progress. As I'm waiting on a new run from Russ for some cylinders, and have yet to order my T-track.

 

I have found some which I can get in quite a large quantity, the dealer sent me an outline of the profile, seen below which I think is very close to what has been used on my SDS e-11. However, if anyone knows where I can find a good quality plastic screen accurate track at a reasonable price then I am all ears.

 

 

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

john,

 

the sight rail you're using is too thin, and your hengstler is still too low.

 

it can be fun to work out the details! I know it's hard to do!

 

you should be using the 16mm steel, with cutouts at the rear.

 

and keep in mind that your hengstler should overlap the mag well, and be at 1/2 height to the scope's horizontal.

 

the hengstler should be just about half the scope's height to it's top edge.

 

this will allow for clearance for the folding stock arm. the mounting for hengstlers was really really close to the body of the

 

gun as well. you have it a few MM's out to far from the side.

 

man I love how real sterlings look!

 

keep up the good work on this... we all know you won't give up till it's perfect!

 

GINO has T Track, and SABREFREAK on the RPF has track.

 

I have some sabrefreak track and it's nice and all, but to really do this project true justice you

 

probably should go with the GINO track. he has almost the exact style used by LFL.

 

it's really expensive, but worth it! sabrefreak track seems a little thin.

 

to do it right you have to taper the width at the end just as they enter the vent.

 

and the width needs to completely cover all the holes. none should be seen like on the SDS blaster.

Edited June 29, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Marv]

In terms of accuracy Vern its looking like my sight position is also wrong.

 

I've been looking more and more at the pictures that yourself and the other members have posted and I have overlooked one glaring point, and that it that the Scope in every shot appears to be positioned so that the line of the back foot is above the hinge of the stock. I had positioned my M19 so that the bolt was in line with the front barrel of the scope as it appears on the picture of Han Solo. What I had not considered is the fact that due to this Sterling being a new deactivation the bolt is not in its furthest most position as this was a weld point. Bringing this forward will more than likely correct a couple of alignment issues in one go.

 

Also looking at my bracket for the counter I have also struck a new realisation, and that is that if I reverse the S bend this should also have the desired effect of raising the counter to a height more in line with your own observations.

 

Guess what I'm going to be doing tomorrow evening

 

 

[Marv]

I have come up with a new idea for the Hengstler bracket, I'm hoping this will work out OK. It is not yet finished, it could still go horribly wrong but here goes!

 

The Bracket is cut a little like a key, the narrower end (top of picture) I will bend to 90 degrees.

 

 

The Idea is that like a key this will be inserted into the counter itself and turned to lock in to position.

 

The next shot shows kind of what it will look from the inside, as its not yet bent into shape I have had to remove the innards for this illustration.

 

 

I'm hoping that when this is bent correctly this will give a slight elevation to bring the desired hight against the scope and the rail and address the issue Vern kindly pointed out earlier. The strip holding to the scope rail I have made 10mm wide so it will comfortably sit under the smaller rail and the wider rail I've still got to return to following the discovery I had positioned the scope incorrectly on my first attempt.

 

The next shot shows how this will be concealed(hopefully) when its all put together. I'm hoping that it will all lock nicely when all I can assume is a motor is put back in place.

 

 

 

[Marv]

I have now addressed my alignment issue. The scope back foot now sits directly over the stocks hinge.

 

 

This shows the alignment (and I think this will please Vern) on my WIDER rail with a 1943 M40 scope.

 

 

More images of the wider scope, front and from above:

 

 

 

What I would say is that this took quite a lot of time to get looking nice, applying a 90 bend filing to sit inside the sight and to fit the vent hole especially with the rudimentary tools at my disposal simply makes me think they either didn't do this or they mass produced the rail somehow?

 

Here are a couple of pictures of similar smaller rail configuration, much quicker and easier to put together.

 

 

 

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

you nailed it bro! wide rail totally rocks!

 

and the hengstler bracket is very interesting.

 

nice work!

[TK_LEPER]

That's one of the nicest M19 scopes I've seen!

 

Oh and the blaster is looking great as well!

Edited July 15, 2011 by TK 4702

[Marv]

Thanks guys, I really am appreciating the help and comments made.

 

I've actually abandoned my two previous bracket ideas and have gone for something extremely simple, it appears to be working, and if I'm right when I drill the holes I think this new solution will sort most of my alignment issues for the counter.

 

Here it is simple...

 

 

And here is the reason why. This method utilities the small clip which hold the connection box to the counter itself.

 

The upright part of the bracket is a perfect fit width ways 18mm and upright including the bend is 25mm. This fits all the way to the roof of the counter on the inside. The angle is off 90 degrees so it wedges a little with the motor, but in all it is strong enough to hold upside down and shake.

 

 

Once I've drilled the holes and connected to one of the rails you'll see this actually helps a great deal with vertical alignment.

 

M19:

 

 

M38/M40

 

 

Its beginning to slowly take shape.

 

 

[Marv]

Ah my fist picture didn't upload... The bracket

 

 

 

[Marv]

I've now put these pieces together for the first time, I'm really pleased with it, everything appears to align nicely.

 

 

 

 

Oh and it holds upside down...

 

 

I love it when a plan comes together! (sorry... I simply couldn't resist)

 

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

spot on!

[Marv]

If there was anyone out there interested in the origins of the M38 scope, I found this poster recently which shows where it was originally found on the Sherman tank (note item 31)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marv]

My Blaster build has been on hold for a wee while now, having run into problems with my VW camper (my engine is currently in pieces) this had to give. This caused me some consternation as I was not able to commit to purchasing some nice authentic T-track from Gino, and Saber-freak with a cheaper alternative also informed me that his supplies were no more...

 

It was then without really focusing on the project I stumbled on this, an 8m strip of pure black plastic which I have decided to use

 

Underside

on the barrel

Black plastic track dimensions:

track (mm): 8 H x 11 W x 2000 L

 

I can now get this moving once again

[Marv]

I've now trimmed a little, here is the only comparison I can offer on this track, set aside my MR Boba Fett.

 

[Marv]

Has anyone got any really good tips on how to bend the plastic. I've tried with a lighter but found that the flame simply burns the plastic material damaging it so that aesthetically it looks bad. I had a go using a bar heater which simply delivered to much heat and not pin point enough so when I bent the track it deformed at the base a little. If anyone can answer this it would be really great?

[Locitus[Admin]]

I made me a makeshift heat sealing iron by disassembling a hair straightener and just keep one of the heating elements (it even has variable temperature). If you have an old one lying around it might be an idea. Or get one, there are some that are quite cheap.

 

Your blaster is looking really good now btw! Do you have any more of that T-track?

Edited July 29, 2011 by Locitus

[Marv]

Thanks for this Mathias. In the end I actually stumbled upon another method (I think I read it here on one of the posts here somewhere - It was in the back of my head) using boiling water. Basically dipping the ends into the water and standing for about half a minute appears to have given the plastic enough elasticity to be reshaped. What I have also found is that if I make a serious enough error, leaving it submerged in the water also results in the plastic straightening itself again.

 

I haven't made much progress with it but here are a couple of pictures of what I have done so far. I'm relatively happy, as you can see some of my bends are not quite as snug as I would Ideally like.

And in comparison to my SDS blaster...

 

Mathias if you want some of this stuff PM me I do have more of this, and can probably get more too.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

nice job john!

 

if you tie the tracks down with a rope you should be able to heat them flush.