My first E11-Project

[Marv]

As this my 100th post thought I'd share this, just received yesterday my new deactivated Sterling mk IV L2A3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And these are some of the component pieces I'm looking to dress it with.

 

I'm looking to make the scope rail and counter bracket in such a way that I can interchange these.

 

 

M40 1942 (vern I still have another 1943 set aside)

 

 

M38 1943

 

 

Eagles

 

 

 

I'm currently trying to work out the best possible way as how to make the rail so that this will be possible.

 

Here are some of my thoughts on this process... the ramblings of a madman

 

For the Hengstler counters the idea here is to use an angled bracket piece of plate 'L' shaped, similar to that used on fence posts etc I figure when it is bent to shape it would hold the Hengstler in the correct position, and can be secured to the Hengstler by clamping the bracket between the metal connection box and the triangular plastic piece at the back.

 

 

Hopefully this makes sense of my description

 

 

Some scribbles re the rail itself

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now some questions.

 

I saw a really nice picture posted by Jesse some while back of Han Solo carrying the blaster, in it the rail looked to be pretty narrow, and the feet of the M19 on it appear to be wider. What size width would people recommend this should be?

 

With regards to the spacing between the Hengstler and the barrel of the Blaster what would be a typical space/gap or should the Hengstler rest on the Barrel itself?

 

When the rail is passed into the front/last (depending which way you look) vent hole on the barrel how are you securing the rail at this point, is the rail simply bent back under?

 

And at the back by the sight itself should the rail be secured with the sight in the vertical or horizontal position, as from what I can see this would have a definite baring on the hight of the rail?

 

 

[ObiHahn[TK]]

This already looks like a very awesome project, all original parts - my jaw dropped a little.

Here's some advice regarding your questions:

 

That Han Solo pic (in stormtrooper disguise, if that is what you mean) only shows that the scope is mounted with visible screws or rivets on the underside of the rail. No real assumptions can be made on how wide the rail should be based on that pic since it is a side view only...

My guess is that it should be about as wide as the rear sight (in a top view, I mean).

 

The Hengstler counter was probably glued directly to the barrel on the prop guns AFAIK (there's some pics where glue residue can be seen on guns that have no counter), so no gap here. It should sit flush on the gun itself.

 

The rail is probably simply bent back under and slid into the barrel hole, but I have no conclusive photo evidence of that.

 

The height of the scope rail can be seen in the Han Solo pic you referred to, it sits exactly in a line that leads to the top of the rear sight joint visible in the outer walls (those half circles) of the rear sight.

Let me see if I can upload said "Han Solo stormtrooper" picture.

Edited June 18, 2011 by ObiHahn

[gazmosis[501st]]

I am living vicariously through you! Did I spell that right? Anyway, amazing sterling and other parts. You know, having too many hengstlers can be bad for your health. Call me if/when you start having ill effects.

 

In regards to the rail, whatever material you make it out of, make sure it has a little backbone to it. The weight of the real scopes WILL bend lighter rail material. Here's what I used. I went to the yard fencing section of my Lowes or Depot or Menards, whatever and they have these steel reinforcement strips. There are a messload of them in a tube right next to the fencing. They are 5/8 inch wide by about 1/8 inch thick. This is a bit wider than the 1/2 hole in the top of the sterling barrel so you will need to trim it or taper it on a grinder or with a dremmel tool. I attached it by bending the barrel side 90 degrees down then 90 degrees toward the front of the gun. Use a vise so you get a nice bend. You don't want it too round. "Measure twice" on the first bend! You don't want your rail sitting too high.

[Marv]

This was the image I had been referring to that Jesse's posted can be found on this topic the rail appears to be the width of the inside of sight?

[Marv]

I've got some 16mm steel plate which is the same width of the outside of the sight, but the measurements I took of the sterling and viewing the image of the M19 variant make me think that the bar would have only been 10mm in width. That way it could pass straight into the sighting and into the first vent hole. It would mean pretty little fuss to knock together, there would have been no need to reshape (cut or file) the bar, simply bend and drill. Back to Wickes tomorrow then!

[ObiHahn[TK]]

This is the only image of a screen used blaster from the front/top that I found in my stormtrooper reference pic archive:

 

 

It shows that the scope rail is about as wide as the inner diameter of the "front" lens of the scope... it is a bad quality scan, granted - but might give some general idea of scope rail measurements.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

hey marv!

 

I have all the information you'll need for a removable sight rail!

 

I'd actually make 2 sight rails and just have them interchange with scope and hengstler combinations.

 

fireblade jedi has a really good example of the removable sight rail:

 

it neatly tucks into the last cooling hole on top and bolts though at the rear sight.

 

as you can see it's notched slightly at both ends.

 

 

the bolt at the rear sight holds the notch into the cooling hole and allows for easy modification

 

of the demill without resorting to a dual bolted sight rail. this type of sight rail looks the

 

best in my opinion. one bolt/nut combination with access by removing the end cap.

 

 

here is a great shot showing that the hengstler is in line with the front screw point of the scope

 

and the height and position of it.

 

one of the other members shows the wires. and if you look really close, the wires DON"T attach

 

to the pins on the hengstler, they actually attach BELOW the pins to the body of the counter.

 

you can clearly see that the wires are not shaver cord wires, and are really thin PCB connection DC voltage

 

thin insulated wire. there are blobs of silver solder on the counter, and it looks like some kind of red

 

bead, or somthing at the end of the wire where it folds under and connects to the magazine well power cells.

 

 

 

The hengstler counter bracket is actually best done by making a sheetmetal L angle screwed into the counter

 

and on top of the sight rail, but under the front foot of the scope. making it out of a more flexible metal

 

and thin metal is really good for when it catches on someone's purse, or clothing as they walk by in a crowded

 

convention hall. ( I know this because it happened. The "bendable" break away nature of the design probably saved me)

 

 

The width of the sight rail should match the front foot width of your scope, either m38 or m40.

 

and by the way marv!

 

SELL me that m40 scope! I have the funds, and I want it!

Edited June 19, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Marv]

This is the only image of a screen used blaster from the front/top that I found in my stormtrooper reference pic archive:

 

 

It shows that the scope rail is about as wide as the inner diameter of the "front" lens of the scope... it is a bad quality scan, granted - but might give some general idea of scope rail measurements.

 

Dennis this is a very interesting observation.

 

On the M38/M40 this is approximately the same diameter as the vent hole and the distance between the rear sight walls, I'm becoming more convinced that this actually pretty narrow. It would mean clearance either side of the scope attachment would only be about 2.5mm either side (where the holes are drilled)?

 

 

 

[Marv]

Hay Vern I'd not considered what you said about having two rails, I'd thought about housings for the Hengstler and How I could interchange more than one, but not the rail. I like your suggestion.

 

Have sent you a PM to.

 

 

[Marv]

Dennis this is a very interesting observation.

 

On the M38/M40 this is approximately the same diameter as the vent hole and the distance between the rear sight walls, I'm becoming more convinced that this actually pretty narrow. It would mean clearance either side of the scope attachment would only be about 2.5mm either side (where the holes are drilled)?

 

 

 

 

Actually after seeing this I went out and brought some 10mm rolled steel:

 

 

A comparison of the rail against the scope (seen against a 1943 M40)

 

 

The same rail fits well into the sight...

 

 

and clearly into the vent hole, no cuts or filing required.

 

 

The one problem with such narrow rail becomes very clear with this next image, drilling will have to be pretty accurate:

 

 

Whereas with a 16mm steel its clear there will be some need for work:

 

 

Have decided to tap the hole in the sight so a simple grub screw can hold it all in place (need to get hold of tools first though).

 

 

 

 

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I really believe that the width of the sight rail is wider than the vent hole.

 

on all the replica's I've made the rear foot of the scope is the same width as the rail.

 

at the rear you simply notch out the sides in a T shape. and fit a 5/10" bolt nut combination from there.

 

the other rail you show seems to be a little too thin in width.

 

I actually use 3/4" flat aluminum. notched at the rear to fit the sight, and the width is cut down at the front hook

 

to fit inside the vent.

 

the 16mm looks closer to what you want!!

 

here is a cropped shot of firebladejedi's sight rail.

 

 

notice how it's cut and tapered at each end?

 

now here's a suggestion:

 

take a close look at the photo with the wires. see how the sight rail is clearly wider than the vent hole?

(again shows more of a 16mm width.) you can also see that it's wider than T track which also should completely cover

the holes.

 

 

and my version for comparison:

 

 

 

here's how the rear should be cut for fitting.

Edited June 20, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Marv]

My scope rail bracket idea for the counter.

 

Considering I only have a Black&Decker workbench and not very many tools (I do have a hammer, Hacksaw, Engineers rule and File) I set about seeing how this would work. I cheated a little, and brought a Joist Harness this appeared to be a good thickness for the clamp on the counter and would require a little less bending:

 

 

The marking are what I would use the rest, well thats wastage.

 

This is the result of all my sawing and filing (the bracket)

 

 

And this is how it all fits together:

 

 

 

The metal is still a little narrow so may either need to reconsider, or tamper with the clamp so the hold is stronger.

 

It will drop a little lower when on the rail but only by about 2mm.

 

 

When I put this together I only considered the diameter of the barrel and did not consider the folding stock armature. I may have to re do this. I won't get a proper idea of how this will look until I manage to fix the scope rail.

 

Now I need to buy a tap and die set...

 

 

 

 

 

[Femtrooper Julie[501st]]

Wowzer! Nice!

[Marv]

Why, thank you Julie.

[Marv]

Have made the decision not to cut up my 34 rnd magazine, so being lazy have today placed an order for one of these which I should get in the next couple of days:

 

 

This is the 10 rnd Sterling mk7 Para pistol magazine. Job done

 

 

[firebladejedi[TK]]

Nice project :0

 

I think the scope rail need to be wider than the front hole/rear site and cut out to slot in. Thats how mine was and needed no fixing it simply clicked into place.

 

I like the counter bracket, very nice.

[Marv]

Have made a little progress on the smaller rail today, more so out of a need to be able to compare the result with the image previously posted by Jesse of Han with the E-11.

So here is the smaller rail (I've not yet drilled holes for the scopes or tapped the hole to attach to the sight), though very straight forward 1 bend, 1 hole.



At the rear...



And at in the vent hole



Now the money shot



 

Edited August 18, 2013 by Marv

[LittleOne]

NIceeee!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

nice counter bracket, but I personally think that it should sit up higher. I'd say at least till the counter is sitting so it's on the halfline horizontal

to the scope.

 

I also think that the thinner sight rail is not right for an m38 and a hengstler.

 

it should be the 16mm.

[ObiHahn[TK]]

Hengstler height is perfect IMHO. Leave it as is.

Vern, what are your sources for the 16mm rail? Any pics (nothing fanmade, of course)?

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

Nice project :0

 

I think the scope rail need to be wider than the front hole/rear site and cut out to slot in. Thats how mine was and needed no fixing it simply clicked into place.

 

I like the counter bracket, very nice.

 

mark seems to think that the rail should be wider.

 

it's all in the eye of the maker/beholder.

 

it should just be a little bit higher for the hengstler as well.

 

it's a love thing!

Edited June 23, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Marv]

Today the magazine arrived... I'm such a cheat.

 

 

Another view:

 

 

 

[ObiHahn[TK]]

I was, like I always like to do, referring to using prop reference and original material.

But yeah, Hengstlers were all over the place I guess.

[TK_LEPER]

 

I really hope you don't mind me using this shot Jesse...

 

 

... of corse not!

 

That E-11 looks weird without the counter on it. Eh?

 

BTW, none of your photos are loading bro.

 

Jesse

Edited June 23, 2011 by TK 4702

[Marv]

I'm still unsure about the position of the counter myself, though I don't think it matter too much when you consider the picture Vern posted earlier with the troopers behind the princess. Both counters appear to be at different heights etc.

 

On this image the scope should be a little more to the left, I tightened the screws to the edge of the rail and bracket as I've not yet drilled any holes

 

 

This next picture shows how narrow my first rail is.