DV's ESB E-11 Blaster build

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Hey guys n gals i decided to take a break from building my armor(which is almost done) and start on the blaster. I bought this kit from Jason (boklast) from the Carolina garrison months ago but never got around to building it.

 

This is a "doopy doos" kit that you use with a PVC pipe or metal tube. My build is a PVC pipe, and a bare bones build with no moving parts or electronics.

 

It comes with a template you attach to the PVC pipe to layut the barrel holes, cocking slot, and ejection port. I spray glued the template to the pipe and cut it out about a month ago and stopped working on it

 

So this is where we are now. I didnt take any pics of the parts layed out, but its a standard ESB kit that doopy doos sells.

 

Now the parts are meant to be glued/epoxied into place, but i wanted this to be a bit more sturdy so i used screws and glue wherever possible

 

the first thing i did was insert the "door" for the ejection port. Its basically a resin tube thats inserted in the middle of the barrel where the ejection door is.

 

First you see here the bottom of the barrel and the way i mounted the grip section. I used CA glue and then put in 3 screws. 2 here:

and 1 here:

 

I countersunk the rear grip screw to be filled with bondo later. The other screws will be covered by the trigger and trigger guard.

 

i then decided to have the folding stock screw into the mount at the rear connection points. So i found screws that would fit the bill and drilled out the "bump" on the end of the stock

later i will remove the3 bump entirely to be replaced by the large headed screw i found to do the job

 

and then put a screw through it to make it sturdy

Here is the top of the stock with the countersunk hole:

here is the bottom:

 

 

I then added the mount for the stock behind the grip, again with a countersunk screw and CA glue:

 

 

I also drilled holes into the sides to mount the stock:

 

I then finished drilling and removing the "bump" on the stock:

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

I then proceeded to add trigger, trigger guard, scope rail and clip assembly with CA glue and countersunk screws:

 

 

I had forgotten to drill out the holes to mount the scope, so i had to remove the scope rail, drill those out and put it back..lol..whoops!

 

Before i reattached the scope rail i placed the scope in the proper position and drilled just a little through the holes on the rail to the scope itself to mark where the holes should be on the scope. I then drilled from the bottom markings all the way through the scope out of the top. Then i turned it back right side up and counter sunk the holes to match the screws i was using to mount it:

 

 

Ok so after a location problem, i reattached the stock mount closer to the grip and filled the screw holes and the holes from my improper placement

 

 

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Then i mounted the scope, and filled the screw holes:

 

I also mounted the stock but noticed it was angled a bit much and far from the barrel, or at least further than i wanted it to be

 

So i placed a screw underneath and counter sunk it to fill the hole

That solved the problem

 

I then insertred a 1/2" PVC pipe i prepainted flat black as the internal barrel. It was sittin a little crooked so i mounted the front sight with a slightly askew screw to push it level.

 

In some shots of the real blaster i noticed there was an allen bolt on the front nozzle. I wanted to replicate that so i found an old allen bolt i had laying around and drilled out the nozzle to fit it.

Worked perfect!

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

I also noticed an allen bolt in the bottom of the grip. So i drilled that out as well and added the bolt.

 

I then added the clip and all the greeblies:

 

Then i painted it with krylon black primer and a couple of coats of matte finish

 

Now i just need to weather it and get me some t-track for the barrel and its done!

 

Its not perfect, there are a couple of oops' on it. I mounted the grip just a tad too far back so the stock doesnt protrude as much as it should. The grip is also slightly skewed to the left, but unless you look at it from end to end, you dont really notice it. But it was a fun first blaster build. I will hopefully get an ANH kit sometime in the near future and be more careful when i build it, now that i know how its done!

[BananoPower22[TK]]

That looks amazing!

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

That looks amazing!

 

thanks bro!

 

Thats what i did all day today lol

[Locitus[Admin]]

Wow, great build!

[BananoPower22[TK]]

How did you get the resin pieces to look so smooth? Everytime I paint resin, bubbles show up

Edited April 20, 2011 by BananoPower22

[moonwalker[501st]]

Wow, looks great! Can(t wait to see it weathered and with the t-tracks !

Edited April 20, 2011 by moonwalker

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

How did you get the resin pieces to look so smooth? Everytime I paint resin, bubbles show up

 

I just give it a light sanding. The parts were pretty well cast to begin with so i didnt need any excessive sanding/filling

 

 

Thanks for the kind words guys!

 

 

As soon as i have a little cash ill get me some t-tracks. Does Stomper still make/sell that or do we have a new person now...the last time i bought the stuff was in 2008 lol

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

the esb greeblie stunt needs the following mods:

 

front muzzle needs to be filed down.

rear end cap needs to have no D ring or mount.

 

also you need to have the flat spot near the bayonet lug

and the proper location for the door catch and asprin.

flathead screws on the clips and door catch

and you should not have a cut out cocking handle notch or handle.

 

otherwise it's a nice build.

 

very close... but the end cap and muzzle are not correct.

Edited April 20, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

the esb greeblie stunt needs the following mods:

 

front muzzle needs to be filed down.

rear end cap needs to have no D ring or mount.

 

also you need to have the flat spot near the bayonet lug

and the proper location for the door catch and asprin.

flathead screws on the clips and door catch

and you should not have a cut out cocking handle notch or handle.

 

otherwise it's a nice build.

 

very close... but the end cap and muzzle are not correct.

 

I built this as per the parts it came with and from reference i could find. I kept seeing 2 different versions. Ive seen them with and without the modded nozzle and dring and mount. i believe this would be the promo version. But id like it to be the stunt so...Ok, so i dont understand a couple of the things you mentioned Vern. Mind you i have minimal knowledge if guns in general

1-you need to have the flat spot near the bayonet lug - not sure where this is..do you men the lug on the barrel for the folding stock? or something else?

2-the proper location for the door catch and asprin. - im not even sure what those parts are lol

3-flathead screws on the clips and door catch - where exactly do i put these screws? Do you mean the greeblies? seriously bro, those are the screws i had that fit, im not THAT anal. Mind you im not going for Centurion here. Maybe EIB but thats it.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

ok heres what i found in the requirements:

 

21. BlasTech E-11 Blaster (Canon):

 

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• No ammo counter shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Correct style scope.
• No power cylinders on the magazine.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).
• Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters have a total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes).
• Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

22. BlasTech E-11 Blaster (Promo):

 

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• No ammo counter shall be present.
• Correct style scope.
• No power cylinders on the magazine.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).
• Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters shall have a total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes).
• Two greeblies on the left rear area.
• Three studs on the right rear area.
• Add two scope block greeblies.
• Remove front bayonet muzzle disk.
• Remove mag housing parts.
• Remove D-Ring mount.
• Swoosh trim on right above the pistol grip.

So it seems i have a mix of the promo and the canon stunt version going on here But neither of these mention the cut out cocking handle and notch. But as i said, it is filled in. I want to go canon with this, not promo, so i may remove the greeblies. Does anyone have a true screen shot of these blasters? I keep hearing mixed things about them all.

 

So im seeing i should not have the greeblies for the canon blaster? This is going by the EIB standards for a canon ESB. Should i remove the greeblies and swoosh?

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Ya know it seems easier to just leave it the greeblied version....but i kinda really do want the "canon" version. I can remove the greeblies, dremel off the blocks on the scoperail. I can also make the front of the scoperail more squared off and bondo up the sides to give it the more boxy look of the canon blasters. I also belive the canon blasters had the "U" track rather than the T track...i think? If i did these mods, would it be clear for a "canon" build for EIB?

Edited April 20, 2011 by Darth Voorhees

[firebladejedi[TK]]

Nice build

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

The Greeblie Stunt version is what you have. it's a really nice build, but you're only missing out

on the few little details to make it perfect.

 

these are the areas that you should consider from the listings you have provided:

 

# Remove front bayonet muzzle disk. this is the area where you put those nice allen heads inside the barrel tip. remove those and completely sand off the muzzle tip to that level.

# Remove mag housing parts. all parts on the magazine well are removed, including the mag release, the clip lock.

# Remove D-Ring mount. the rear end cap has no mount, D ring or anything on it.

 

a greeblie stunt also has a T Track covering the rear holes beside the bayonet lug.

 

here is a photo showing the front bayonet muzzle disk:

 

 

you can clearly see from the front sights all being filled in that these are all resin guns but with different designs.

 

and finally the pugman original screen used prop:

the official greeblie stunt master that everyone should follow!

 

 

I'll dress up these photos with some graphics describing every part by it's name

 

again man, you've really got a great start to a perfect build!

Edited April 20, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[naatsirhc[TK]]

Great Job!! If you are going ESB leave it the way it is. I did not know doopy doo's had an ESB kit You will want to use the T-track for sure. You should have no problem getting EIB with your blaster

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

doopy do's does not have an ESB kit. this is a great example of tango d fett's ESB greeblie kit and the standard Doopy do's pipe detailing kit.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Thanks Vern!

 

 

Yea i got the kit second hand so i guess he had the doopydoos kit and the ESB greeblies from Tango

[naatsirhc[TK]]

doopy do's does not have an ESB kit. this is a great example of tango d fett's ESB greeblie kit and the standard Doopy do's pipe detailing kit.

Thanks! I will have to look into getting a kit

Nice reference shots!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

i have 2 ready to build right now.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Ok after going back and fourth with myself 50times...ive decided to keep this blaster the "promo version" I will make the necessary mods to it later tonight . Reason being, i want an ANH kit like this as well, and i like that this one will look a little different than the ANH version. Also, if i do finally decide to do a snowie build in the future, this blaster will work for that. So thats my decision and im sticking to it! .................i think.. LOL!

Edited April 21, 2011 by Darth Voorhees

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

it's a nice build. and not just for snowtroopers!

 

making an ANH version is fun, inner spring and metal scope rail.

 

keep it that way! it's just a few small steps away from perfect!

 

it was obviously used in cloud city from the screencap I showed!

Edited April 22, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Indeed Vern! well i did the mods. I had a spare couple of nozzles so i removed the old one and modded a new one and put that in. I removed the clip mounting hardware, and removed the D-ring and mount. I also tried to add the "flat spot" in front of the lug but it didnt come out that great. Im thinking of fabricating some t-track with the spare styrene i have laying around....hmmm

 

Anyway here are the pics!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

the front bayonet flat area looks fine enough, on the originals it has a slight imperfection on it's edges so you look close enough for

imperial work!

 

when you make up your T Tracks you need to make them taper into the holes at the end. The T Track should completely cover the holes

and just be cut thinner at the ends to bend over. some people make them the same width as the holes, and that is not

the way it was done on screen.

 

the inner profile of a T Track is also curved to the shape of the barrel, which helps them to lay flat on a curved surface!

 

the last row of lower holes is also covered by a small piece of T Track.

 

looking absolutely wonderful!

 

only thing you could also do is to study the texture of the paint in a parkerized style finish.

it's not like crackle paint, it's just a bumpy pebble texture all across the barrel.

 

since the greeblie stunt is a replica of a solid resin block gun there should be a bumpy texture on the whole

paintjob that replicates the bumpyness of a resin cast.

 

this is one great build you have there!