angryjason Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 (edited) I'm posting this over on the GA Garrison boards as well, but wanted to make sure I have FISD oversight as I embark on this journey. ***EDIT - Blast it! I forgot to put the [*AM] tag. Sorry*** Box came today. I got home, and thought "gee, that's cool, it's a box". Then I opened it. Ok, somewhat intimidating. Let's dig in and see what we've got Hmm, let me read the instructions. Maybe I'll look at doing my biceps and forearms. Let me get those unpacked. Uh oh, it looks like I'll have to trim. I am now officially too scared to get started. I've gone through build threads for what seems like 12 parsecs, but I'm doing it again. I'm sure this kind of armor performance anxiety happens to lots of guys their first time, right? I've got nothing to be worried about, right? Right? oh, if the pictures are too big, and annoying, let me know, and I'll see about resizing them. Edited March 18, 2011 by angryjason Quote
angryjason Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Posted March 18, 2011 Another repost from the GA Garrison boards. Since the time of this writing, I've decided to try the velcro on glove and on the handguard approach. I decided I'd go for the gusto and start out with a bang - the toughest part of the whole kit - the handguards. The instructions said to use an elastic strap, held in place with velcro on the inside of the handguard. I tried this, and it didn't feel comfortable. Since trooping is a passion based in comfort, I decided to play around. First thing I did was cut some more velcro to stick on the glove. This worked, but when pulling the handguard off, the adhesive would give - not a good sign for something that needs to stay put. I left it that way for now, but am considering using snaps (but am concerned that pulling the handguard off may cause tears in the rubber glove). Another option I'm considering is E6000'ing that sucker onto the glove. Quote
TrooperVenger Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 Don't worry. I was too scared to cut and trim, then Mr John Danter showed me what to do and I got on with it and wondered what I was worrying about. It is daunting doing your first build, but once you get into it, it's no real problem. There's a wealth of info on the forums here and if you need help or confirmation on anything, the peeps here are more than happy to help. Good luck! Quote
Sonnenschein Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 save your trouble and get some flexible hand guards! Congrats on your kit! It's so shiney! Quote
FIVE[501st] Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 First off, congrats on the big brown box! I see you have a cat, they are very helpful during this process! Jumping ahead to the gloves, the only thing that will stick to rubber gloves is silicone. So if you want Velcroâ„¢ on them you'll need to get the kind that's not got self-adhesive on it and then glue it onto the gloves with silicone. Then put the self-adhesive kind on the backs of the plates (which you already have) and you should be good to go. MY recommendation is get a set of Karin's hand guards. Now onto the armor... yes, be petrified. You will probably pretty much ruin your first 2 or 3 sets completely. Don't worry. It's only money. And I'm kidding. You'll do great man! Just dive in! I wouldn't use the 'instructions' very much. Ralph Hinkley actually had it good when he lost the instructions. Use the FISD instead! Read, search, search again, read again, and ask questions! Looking forward to the build! Quote
FIVE[501st] Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 save your trouble and get some flexible hand guards! Hey... that's what I just said! Quote
Sonnenschein Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 Hey... that's what I just said! Thanks for the recommendation! But Noel's right, you'd need some silicone, flexible glue, otherwise they will just pop off with your hand movvements. Quote
TrooperVenger Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 Is it me, or are those hand-guards absolutely huge? Quote
Sonnenschein Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 yes, they are indeed. Here's tutorial to make them smaller and more accurate looking, Quote
angryjason Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Posted March 18, 2011 I thought the same thing. Apparently, there are latex handguards that I should consider grabbing! Quote
Jorran Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 Jason, I had a very similar reaction when I got my big brown box a few weeks back. I was so excited I could hardly contain myself. I laid everything out, got a picture with my pet (seems to be a trend!), and then stood back and thought, "What did I just get myself into!?" Slow and steady definitely wins this race. People here are very happy to answer all your questions and it's great to know that everyone on this board wants you to succeed. By the way, I too can vouch for Karin's fantastic hand guards! I also bought a pair of Nomex flight gloves and will be attaching the hand guards that came with my kit to those. Best of luck!! Quote
ObiHahn[TK] Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 Is it me, or are those hand-guards absolutely huge? A lot of AM parts are absolutely huge. Are you going to use the helmet that came with the kit or already thinking about replacing it? Quote
angryjason Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Posted March 18, 2011 A lot of AM parts are absolutely huge. Are you going to use the helmet that came with the kit or already thinking about replacing it? I'm planning on using it to practice my helmet making skills. I have a line on a CAP-W helmet that I'll probably order in the next 24 hours. Quote
FIVE[501st] Posted March 19, 2011 Report Posted March 19, 2011 Like Michael said, "Slow and steady." If it's a choice between getting to wear your armor next week to meet George Lucas for a special luncheon between just you and him or missing that because you took one more day to wait on a question to be answered you just couldn't find the answer to, choose the 2nd option. You will be much happier in the long run! Quote
angryjason Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Posted March 19, 2011 Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you my first screwup. Decided to give the forearms a go tonight. Scored and snapped a section from one end - I was happy. Measured the same width a couple of times and then scored (but didn't snap) that, when I realized I had just scored the same side I had just snapped. Now, I fear that if I snap, at best, the forearm will lose symmetry. Otherwise, I'm left with a gash. How screwed am I? To add insult to injury - my rare earth magnets decided to cloister up together. I'm sad. I think I'll go watch Phantom Menace. Quote
angryjason Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Posted March 19, 2011 I think I've averted the crisis - turns out that after trimming, it's still a little loose, so I need to take off about another 1/8". This should happily obscure the score mark when fitted the front forearm. Quote
pandatrooper[TK] Posted March 19, 2011 Report Posted March 19, 2011 Simple trick: Mark the areas where you will score with a pencil / ruler or plastic strip first. Take the pencil and write "EXCESS" on the plastic you intend to remove. Score and snap. If you don't see the words "EXCESS" on any parts, you're done. Don't cut or score anything more. Quote
angryjason Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Posted April 15, 2011 Sorry for not keeping up with the build thread. had a couple busy weeks. Basically, I'm keeping on with it. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't intimidated still, overwhelmed and on cloud nine one minute when something goes right and ready to throw myself through a plate glass window when my results aren't as expected. Quick update - looks like I have to go for side shims. I'm not thrilled with this, as I purchased AM armor to avoid shims. I guess that's reason enough to get on a treadmill. I did some prototyping on the shims today and got the desired result with the fit. I used velcro for the fastening, and am not too happy with that. With side shims, should I close the clamshell with the shim, or butt the shim up to the ab plate and then use the 6 rivets and webbing to keep the gap under .5"? I'm trying to build to EIB specs, and Centurion when I feel I can. I'm mapping out some options for my strapping approach. Right now, I'm favoring the suspenders attached to the ab and kidney plate model for the torso. Then, I'll go with the t-shirt strapping for the chest back and arms. Sound about right? All in all, it's going well, despite feeling like I'm in over my head. I can see what I want to do, it's just making it happen that's getting in the way! Hope to have some updated pics soon. Thanks for the tips! Quote
TK-2126_MD[TK] Posted April 15, 2011 Report Posted April 15, 2011 A cat and dog...... is that standard for the AM now a days??? Very cool take your time and enjoy the building, its as or more fun then trooping!!!! take many pics!!! there is never to many pics!!!! Quote
darthyagi Posted April 15, 2011 Report Posted April 15, 2011 Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you my first screwup. On the upside, it probably won't be the last. I have little marks all over my armor. Luckily, nobody will notice, especially if it's the surface you glue. If my eyes don't deceive me, that's the interior forearm section, right? I overlaid the outer half of the forearm on top of the interior, because the exterior half has that ridge. So it'll be covered up, anyway. Since I didn't notice your thread earlier, congrats on your big brown box! I think we are all a little nostalgic about those boxes. Quote
angryjason Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Posted April 18, 2011 I had some wins with the TK today. butt joined forearms and biceps, glued inside support shims on all Painted thermal detonator tube, glued inside support shim Glued a strip of elastic to thermal detonator end cap to create a storage system Added some duck cloth and E-6000 to a weak spot on the chin of my helmet Cut excess plastic from chest and back plates - best test fit of these parts evar!!!! Cut excess plastic from crotch and butt plates - not test fitted with these changes yet painted AB buttons, drilled holes in ab button plate I suspect I dind't use enough E-6000 on my forearm inner shims. I think the internal biceps shims will come out okay. Guess I'll find out when I get home from work tomorrow. One of the guys from the GA Garrison came out and gave me some insight. I think I've been so scared of making a mistake that I've kept myself back on progressing. He really made me realize that a lot of the mistakes I'll make will be easy enough to get over. Definitely most appreciated and the shot in the arm I needed to stop the velcro test fittings and make the necessary adjustments to the armor itself. Looking at my crotch, I came up with a question (only in a TK build is that said with a straight face)... the CRL states: â– A single split rivet or brad should be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional. So the split rivet will be present, but on the inside there will be a snap. What is the best method for placing these? I did make a snap plate for the crotch, but given the cruvature of the armor, found it difficult to place. How have others gotten around this? I don't know if it would be possible for the split rivet to hold the snap or otherwise be functional. The same general question applies to the 2 snaps on the butt plate. The CRL says: â– Two brads/snaps should be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate so would I just punch the snap directly on the armor? If I am, I imagine I'd do the same for this requirement: â– A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate should be present. Quote
tkrestonva[TK] Posted April 18, 2011 Report Posted April 18, 2011 If you're using brads (i.e. paper clips - you can get them from any office supply store) which is what I'm using, I seriously doubt they'll hold. They didn't hold for me on the sides, and I see no reason to believe they'll hold on the crotch. Although I do have the brad driven through the crotch strap, I reinforced the connection with a snap plate glued in place and hidden inside the crotch. If you have any scrap trimmings left, use that as raw material. If it's not flexible enough, then heat it until it's soft enough to bend into the appropriate shape, then glue it in place. As for the two snaps in the butt and one on the right side, just drive them directly into the armor. They have to be visible anyway and they are strong enough to be functional, so might as well do exactly that. My setup: Quote
angryjason Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Posted April 18, 2011 tkrestonva, Thanks for the info and pictures - definitely very helpful. It all makes perfect sense now. Quote
angryjason Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Posted April 19, 2011 I have a question on the brad fasteners - I can't seem to find any that are nickel plated (locally and internet) - all are brass. The one in your shot looks nickel. Any ideas? Quote
RedSpecial[TK] Posted April 19, 2011 Report Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) The brass is normaly just plating, you should be able to sand it off if you want a more silver/nickel look Edited April 19, 2011 by RedSpecial Quote
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