Incinerator trooper... Need a bit of advice

[Wiggleplum]

Hello everyone,

 

Sorry for the title that doesn't really tell you much, but over the last month or so I have been thinking about doing my first kit (an ATA HIPS) in the incinerator trooper style, and i had a quick question...

 

First, I already painted and completed my helmet. Here: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=14637&st=0&p=177737&hl=my%20first%20helmet&fromsearch=1entry177737

 

The helmet was painted with Rustoleum Enamel, and it took a good while to cure. As for the rest of my kit it is assembled and ready for paint, but I was wondering if I did go incinerator and weathered everything extensively (one of the major appeals to this "style" for me), if I could get away with painting the rest of the armor minus the helmet with something such as krylon that dries faster, and has less gloss. Would the difference be noticeable? Would I even need to paint the kit at all, but rather weather it and clear coat?

 

 

Thanks guys, your advice is always much appreciated.

 

Michael

Edited March 13, 2011 by Wiggleplum

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

color match is the main thing that you'll notice. photos really show the differences in colors as well,

 

so it will all depend upon your own personal choice.

 

I would say that you'll have much better luck with the same paint all over the armor.

 

it's worth the wait!

[dashrazor]

can i ask what type of rustolium enamel you used (appliance epoxy, automotive, professional) ??? and it will be great to have another ICN!!!!!

[Wiggleplum]

can i ask what type of rustolium enamel you used (appliance epoxy, automotive, professional) ??? and it will be great to have another ICN!!!!!

 

I used the Rustoleum "Gloss Protective Enamel" not the professional stuff but the regular from walmart. I am pretty excited about it I just need to figure out how to proceed from here.

[dashrazor]

ok, you need only to apply a thin coat at a time and it should dry in 24 hrs tops.. if your helmet took too long it was probably because the paint was applied too thick.

 

When spraying the spray paint make sure to use smooth even passes across what is being painted. Do not start painting on top of the part because the paint will be heavier in that area. When painting you want to press and release the button to the side of the part being painted. Again a few light coats are better than one heavy one and make sure to allow proper drying time between coats. i wait 2-3 hrs between coats with rustolium.. then 24 to 48 hrs before handling (depending on the weather)

 

i am currently using rustolium automotive spray paint and it looks great! the good thing is that if your going to make an incinerator you dont really need a smooth glossy finish.. it will accept the weathering better if you leave the sprayed on texture and you should only need 2-3 coats over a good primer

[Wiggleplum]

ok, you need only to apply a thin coat at a time and it should dry in 24 hrs tops.. if your helmet took too long it was probably because the paint was applied too thick.

 

When spraying the spray paint make sure to use smooth even passes across what is being painted. Do not start painting on top of the part because the paint will be heavier in that area. When painting you want to press and release the button to the side of the part being painted. Again a few light coats are better than one heavy one and make sure to allow proper drying time between coats. i wait 3 hrs between coats with rustolium.. then 24 to 48 hrs before handling (depending on the weather)

 

i am currently using rustolium automotive spray paint and it looks great! the good thing is that if your going to make an incinerator you dont really need a smooth glossy finish.. it will accept the weathering better if you leave the sprayed on texture

 

 

Thats great, because I painted my legs a couple days ago in a thin coat to see if it would work better than my helmet, and it has a sorta textured feel to it. Going with the incenerator, I shouldnt have to sand it should i? The idea is to just get it all the same color?

 

Thanks for your help!

 

I hope it will be alright for me to ask even more questions when it comes time to paint the red.

Edited March 14, 2011 by Wiggleplum

[dashrazor]

i wouldn't worry about sanding the topcoat on a weathered armor myself. and ask away, that's what the FISD is for

[Wiggleplum]

Just to make sure, the ammo pouch needed for the incinerator. This is acceptable isn't it? http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=14871

 

I was lucky enough to buy it earlier today.

[Wiggleplum]

i wouldn't worry about sanding the topcoat on a weathered armor myself. and ask away, that's what the FISD is for

 

Also another quick question, is it OK to use an E-11 when applying for 501st membership and for trooping until I can save some money to somehow piece together a flamethrower?

[seantrooper[TK]]

On my TKC, I sanded down my entire armour (including the paint) after I painted it first with 400 grit then with 1200 grit to give it a matte finish. I also made some deap scratches here and there with some 80 grit The weathering stuck to it very well and the paint got a good scratched effect in some areas that I decided to sand a bit. But I just used humbrol enamel with an airbrush to paint mine

[Wiggleplum]

On my TKC, I sanded down my entire armour (including the paint) after I painted it first with 400 grit then with 1200 grit to give it a matte finish. I also made some deap scratches here and there with some 80 grit The weathering stuck to it very well and the paint got a good scratched effect in some areas that I decided to sand a bit. But I just used humbrol enamel with an airbrush to paint mine

 

What you think I should do with the helmet to make it less glossy, but not mess up the decals?

[Wiggleplum]

It seems that I should probably sand it a bit like you said, as much as it would kill me to sand a shiny helmet , or would it be fine to leave it and just weather.

[stevechewbacca[501st]]

Wow ! great to see another INC here !

 

I must go to the office now, I'll read again your question and see if I can answer

[dashrazor]

you should be able to weather the shiny helmet fine.. but like Sean said light sanding to add scuffing in some areas.. but it is really up to you and how you want it to look..

 

the pouch is fine but the ICN has another small pouch attached to the side like so

you could just add on another small pouch

 

here are some pics of my helmet weathering.. i just polished it up and added more weathering

 

 

whether it is dull or shiny that is up to you i had it dull before but i just added a shiny clear coat and i love it myself

[Wiggleplum]

you should be able to weather the shiny helmet fine.. but like Sean said light sanding to add scuffing in some areas.. but it is really up to you and how you want it to look..

 

the pouch is fine but the ICN has another small pouch attached to the side like so

you could just add on another small pouch

 

here are some pics of my helmet weathering.. i just polished it up and added more weathering

 

 

whether it is dull or shiny that is up to you i had it dull before but i just added a shiny clear coat and i love it myself

 

Where could i pick up a small pouch like that?

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

Oh, and that helmet looks awesome by the way.

Edited March 14, 2011 by Wiggleplum

[dashrazor]

i made mine but you could pick up a single mag pouch and dye it black

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Alice-9mm-Mag-Pouch-M9-Molle-Magazine-Utility-Ammo-/260751982432?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6077f60

 

my other idea would be to use a jack knife case

 

you could probably find one at wally world or a sporting goods store