RogueTrooper[TK] Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 I am with Terry on doing the butt join method(screen accurate), plus the cover strips helps if the two calf parts are not matching well. The VT kit is in the same vein as the other TE derived armor, it is meant to be done with butt joins, instead of the overlap method. The overlap method is meant for the kits like FX/AM. Link for more info on TK leg armor tutorial. BTW, congratz on getting your boots, it must be the day of TKBoots delivered, because another FISD member got theirs today too. They had the same problem of the boots being a little to big. I just told them to get some Dr. Scholls Gel inserts. Not only will the insert take up some room inside the boots, but for those long troops/standing on your feet, you will be very happy if you are "Gellin" Quote
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) I can't tell the difference between the thigh pieces. I feel kind of stupid as I've been looking at them for days now and cant seem to figure them out. How can you tell which is the right and which is the left?? I know it can be a bit strange trying to figure out what parts are what, but hopefully this little diagram that I made for you, can help you with the thigh pieces. To give you a point of the reference, the inner thighs will have the " S style" swooped area at the front that is adjacent to the cod area. After finding the left and right inner thighs, you will then be able to match up the outer thighs to that. If you are still not sure after that, post some pix and we will pinpoint exactly which part is which. *Edited to correct a mistake in the pic* Edited February 1, 2011 by RogueTrooper Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Posted February 1, 2011 THANK YOU!!! As far as trimming up the seam line on the thights, should this cut line be straight (with the formed ridge) or tapered down? Not sure the best way to explain what I'm asking... I did some test fitting...the thigh pieces feel too long, hard to bend my knees. After I do some trimming of the seam lines, I will post some pics of me holding the thighs on and hopefully I can get this moving along... Quote
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 THANK YOU!!! As far as trimming up the seam line on the thights, should this cut line be straight (with the formed ridge) or tapered down? Not sure the best way to explain what I'm asking... I did some test fitting...the thigh pieces feel too long, hard to bend my knees. After I do some trimming of the seam lines, I will post some pics of me holding the thighs on and hopefully I can get this moving along... Happy to help you man! I have seen people do it both ways, cut the edge straight parallel to the form ridge and I have seen some taper it down to fit their leg. I would suggest cutting everything straight with the ridge form. I suggest that you cut the edges straight first, tape together the two halves and do a test fitting. Make sure when you are doing your test fitting to have either your under suit on or something clingy like it on. Anything other than that, will make it hard to know if it fits correctly. If you want to taper it later, you can always do that. Here is a link to help you with your thighs: HOWTO: Assemble thighs (butt join with cover strips) As for the length of your thighs, after you assemble them, you may need to trim a bit around the top lip of the thighs to get them to fit you correctly, if needed. First before doing any type of trimming/tweaking, get basically everything assembled and then do test fittings to see if anything is too long or maybe just needs adjusting. After you have done all of your test fittings, if you do end up trimming something that has a return edge, this link will help so you can replace that return edge on your armor: HOWTO: Make a return edge on armor using a heat sealing iron Video tutorials! But first just get the basic stuff trimmed out, assembled and test fitted. If you have any questions or want somebody's opinion, just post pix and we will be happy to help you. Here are some pix of some original screen used TK thighs to give you a point of reference: Quote
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 BTW, the accurate width of the cover strips is 20mm for thighs and shins. But, if you need more room with your thighs or shins but want to keep a more accurate look to your armor, try this: Use a 20mm cover strip in the front, then make the back wider by using wider cover strip/shim on the back. This will give you more room, and keep the front of your armor looking screen accurate. Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Posted February 23, 2011 Thanks for all the replies - I've been out of the loop lateley. I've been fortunate enough to have been blessed with a nice promotion at the dinner theater I work for. I just signed a contract that guarantees me a part in all five shows being produced this year, PLUS work as the theaters 'prop master' so I'm pretty stoked! I feel really stuck right now with the armor becuase I really don't want to mess it up...fortunately, I just met a fellow RPF member who lives very close to me who is willing to give me a second set of eyes in building this first-hand. I will upload progress photos when they come...I think I am going to start to assemble the helmet to give me some motivation. I cut out the eyes and they look great, going to open the grill next and work on attaching the ears this coming week. Part of me was thinking of just buying the eFX 30th anniversery ESB replica helmet and be done with it, but I'm not too happy with the shortcomings of the helmet....and I don't want to cheat!! Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Posted February 23, 2011 Oh, and can someone tell me if this is the rivet gun I should buy for this build? Want to make sure before I go out and spend money... http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Fastening-Tools-Rivet-Tools-Rivets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarfz/R-202061308/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Posted February 23, 2011 Great, thanks for the reply. I will be heading out to Home Depot soon to pick up a few things I don't have. Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 Everything is looking good so far, the rivet gun worked great. I was wonering if anyone had lense templates that I can print out and use to cut the green lense strip provided with my kit? Also, I noticed that the blue stripe decals are uneven in number - which side is which? And lastly, is there a good method of gluing the black "S" rubber trim around the rim of the helmet? It looks to come off easily if you don't glue it down... Quote
geordietrooper Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 I was wonering if anyone had lense templates that I can print out and use to cut the green lense strip provided with my kit just stick a piece of card inside behind each eye hole & draw around from the outside then add a bit extra all around & cut it out then use as template for ya green stuff does that make sense lol or do it the accurate way Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 Thanks - that will work. What about the blue 'vent' decals - what is the correct placement of those? Quote
generalFROSTY Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Posted February 28, 2011 Got most of the helmet assembly done today. It's not as perfect as some more experienced builders may be able to do, but I am overall pleased. I will be doing some masking and maybe painting tomorrow - pics coming soon. Quote
pandatrooper[TK] Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 Thanks - that will work. What about the blue 'vent' decals - what is the correct placement of those? About 1/4" - 3/8" away from the cheek tube valley. Make sure the swoops are facing the right way check starwarshelmets.com for reference. Quote
generalFROSTY Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 Today I was able to construct most of the left thigh - looks pretty good, though it's not perfect I am pleased I was able to get it to be form-fitting and fairly decent looking. I am also almost done with the lid - just have to paint the gray areas. I tried taping off the black mouth vent but was not having much luck...so I tried something that worked like a charm...a black sharpie! I was able to fallow the countours of the vent with the sharpie and then color it all in and it looks very nice and clean, it worked great. I didn't have my camera handy with me today, so tomorrow I will start snapping some photos. The helmet liner I bought off Ebay also looks to be a perfect finishing touch to the inside of the helmet. My confidence is slowly building with each step I take forward so that is a good sign. Thanks for all the input. Quote
NoVATie[Admin] Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 I think the convention is to use a pencil to space the tube stripes out from the "cheek" of the helmet. Look at Mike or Scootch's assembly instructions. Quote
generalFROSTY Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 I made a small error today doing the thigh that hopefully I won't catch a whole lot of backlash for - I made the cover strip extend the whole length of the front instead of stopping right before the knee ridge. It's the left leg so unfortunately I won't have the ammo pack to cover it up, but it still looks decent so I'm not worried. I'm just happy I was able to make the butt/join method work - and it's a very strong hold as I used plastic weld. Also, I was wondering if it would be acceptable to attach the ab section to the back section by overlapping the ab to the back and using pop rivets? I have a slim build and want it to be form-fitting and did a test fitting of it already - if I warm up the plastic I can get it to wrap to my body type then just rivet the ab sides to the sides of the back plate. One side will use velcro closure - right now I'm more concerned about my own personal wearability but don't want tons of troopers giving me trouble for doing some non-screen accurate assembly choices. Quote
generalFROSTY Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) I've had a chance to get a lot more done that I was typically able to do - had a few extra days off work so I put it to good use. I botched up the painting a little bit on the helmet but correctable. The black pinstripes that came with the kit to surround the gray part on the ear didnt work well for me, so I decided to paint the line on by hand....bad idea...it came out looking like a pre-schooler did it! I will have to remove the paint and try again. Thighs and shins are done except for some final sanding and cleaning of the edges. Just installed the velcro for the shins today and they fit perfect. The shins and thighs are very form-fitting and even though my construction is not perfect by any means, I am happy that they fit the way I wanted them to. I really have been doing my best with what I got - this VT kit really has a lot of assembly flaws but gave it an honest effort to do the work. One of the problem areas is the back of the thighs. I chose to do an overlap construction for the back and weld it down. The result was a very sloppy look which I hope will go virtually unnoticed when wearing the armor to parties and events. Given the limited viewability in the helmets, I am hoping other troopers won't notice the flaws! I know alot of you are very serious into this hobby and probobly are lightyears better at building this stuff - I know I made some errors and there are flaws but please go easy on me, I really did my best Edited March 2, 2011 by generalFROSTY Quote
generalFROSTY Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Posted March 9, 2011 Everything is done now except for forming the belt, ammo pack and constructing the detonator. After that, I have to work on installing the remainder of the snap plates and straps and it's all ready to wear. Pics when I can get them... Quote
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