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Posted (edited)

That's true in theory, but in reality a mould taken from a forming will never reproduce the original mould.

 

The problem with casting from formed plastic parts is that the plastic never pulls into any crevices tight enough and leaves a mould which has soft edges. This means the next forming will be even softer than the first and then the forming starts to lose the original shape.

 

We are talking really minor differences here but differences all the same.

 

 

Yes I see what you mean, but if done correctly you can reproduce a perfect mold replica.

 

The best is to use thin plastic .40 gauge is ideal with many well placed vacuum holes, the plastic at that thickness will get sucked down in the smallest crevises, I'm talking a industrial strenght forming machine here not a homemade shop vac type.

 

To avoid the thin plastic from deforming when pouring the cast material, I usually make a second pull from thicker material just for support, I just sit the thinner pull in the thick one or I put the thin pull in a sandbox so when I pour the platic won't budge.

 

Mark

Edited by ABS80
Posted

I think that the reason there are differences in helmets is because all the moulds are different.

 

I don't personally think that the "master moulds" used to express the "TE" line are all from the same sources.

they are scuplted casts based upon a generally used shape.

 

there are large noticable differences from the ATA lid, and the AP lid. AP lids are very much the same, it's the assembly method

that changes the overall 'look' to the bucket itself.

 

I really like the AP version much better for it's shape. I guess now all I have to get is a GINO and a TM, and I have almost all the

major makers.

Posted

Yeah and even though certain kit parts are slightly smaller than others (Guy# 1's kit vs guy #7's kit) a lot has to do with how the lid was assembled and how much of the neck area (undercut) was removed or left on.

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