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Posted

Honestly I would avoid that. .60 gauge styrene is quite thin and its lack of rubber content will probably make it more likely to break. That coupled with the time of year means you'll be paying an awful lot for it. The seller also has low feedback so that would be 3 alarm bells ringing for me. If I were you I would be looking here for better quality armour.

Posted

Honestly I would avoid that. .60 gauge styrene is quite thin and its lack of rubber content will probably make it more likely to break. That coupled with the time of year means you'll be paying an awful lot for it. The seller also has low feedback so that would be 3 alarm bells ringing for me. If I were you I would be looking here for better quality armour.

 

Thanks for the advice, didn't understand the quality of thickness if styrene.

Posted

You get what you pay for.

 

You'd think that'd be stickied somewhere atop this section of the forum.

Posted

So where do you suppose the parts came from? That's probably the main reason I asked in the first place (probably should have metioned that). Since I'm still fairly new to all of this I'm trying to figure out where stuff comes from just on how it looks like the rest of you seem to be able to do. Like, how do you differentiate on appearance FX from ATA, or painted ATA from TM or AP?

Posted (edited)

Simply put - the pieces look different. Edges, shapes, and curves set the various makes apart. After you look at various images of the different kits over and over, you'll be able to pick them apart too. None of us got lay of the land overnight, it takes time and study just like anything else ;)

 

As for where the parts came from? Some people buy armor, then cast it to make copies. Some people sculpt armor from scratch and make their own pieces. Some people cast other people's pieces and then tweak or add their own parts to the mix.

Edited by NoVATie

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