SolderMaster Posted September 23, 2010 Report Posted September 23, 2010 Hi folks! Here is an AP lid in the making. This is my cousin's (Teri on the boards) lid in which I have been given the task of assembling. A few things first... Like many of you, I used the "factory" trims lines which will give me fits...gaps...I know the eyes need to be filed a bit more and 2 more teeth need to be opened up. Just need to hear from my fellow troopers on how it looks so far and any assembly tips you can muster Here it is... Ok...what do you think?...and don't candy coat it!! Quote
TK_LEPER Posted September 23, 2010 Report Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) Maybe trim (the round part) of the ears down a little (1/8"), sand them against a flat surface so it's even? And get rid of the small return on the back of the ears as well... The eyes could be a little bigger (not much), again just get rid of that edge. That's my two cents. Also, I would get some different brow trim, that stuff stains the ABS. I had used it on my 1st AP lid, and it made it yellow all around it. Get the good stuff from seals direct. Edited September 23, 2010 by TK 4702 Quote
sskunky Posted September 23, 2010 Report Posted September 23, 2010 Yeah, what Jessie said. The ears aren't too bad at all. If you are going for an accurate look I wouldn't worry too much about the finish. Alot of troopers make them look too perfect. Remember the originals were thrown together. They only had about two weeks to pull, assemble and paint 56 helmets for the production. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted September 23, 2010 Report Posted September 23, 2010 I personally don't think you need to do anything. just open the eyes a little and finish that frown. the ears are always the hardest part to get flush. the best thing to remember is that the backs of the ears should be longer than the fronts for the lower parts. and when you're cutting out the upper ear, it's not a flat circle, it's a circle that's beveled on a curve. if you sand the caps perfectly flat they will stick up in the center when you mount them. if you leave the top of the ear and the base of the cap on a slight curve it will follow the round parts of the helmet better. after trimming 4 sets of ears for the four helmets I've built, it's very tough to get a flush ear cap. just remember it's all curves, not flats... Quote
TK_LEPER Posted September 23, 2010 Report Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) and when you're cutting out the upper ear, it's not a flat circle, it's a circle that's beveled on a curve. if you sand the caps perfectly flat they will stick up in the center when you mount them. A very good point! And it really all depends on how YOU want it to look. If you did want the ears tighter, it would probably be best to mark them with a pencil (while the ears are mounted to the helmet), any areas that may need additional trimming/sanding down. just follow the curve of the helmet, match it up best you can. Here's a few pics from my last AP lid build (below), it's about the best job I've done on ears. Edited September 23, 2010 by TK 4702 Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted September 26, 2010 Report Posted September 26, 2010 that looks nice! Quote
snoberg Posted October 17, 2010 Report Posted October 17, 2010 Ever since I made my AP helmet, I LOVE seeing them, I really do think AP has the best helmet out there, its so crisp and pretty every time I see it built. Quote
TK_LEPER Posted October 17, 2010 Report Posted October 17, 2010 (edited) Ever since I made my AP helmet, I LOVE seeing them, I really do think AP has the best helmet out there, its so crisp and pretty every time I see it built. I heartedly agree with you sir! :3po: Edited October 17, 2010 by TK 4702 Quote
snoberg Posted October 17, 2010 Report Posted October 17, 2010 Did you fill your ear gaps? You must have, otherwise thats the best fit I have ever seen. I have debated doing it myself. What did you use, if that is the case? Quote
TK_LEPER Posted October 17, 2010 Report Posted October 17, 2010 I used Plastic weld, and glued them shut. Sometimes I use painter's Caulk if the gaps are tight enough, then prime and paint. I might also (very carefully) use a heat gun to get the curves to match up. But for the most part I just use a pencil, marking where I need to sand it down, following the curve of the lid. That alone is the best way, just leave yourself enough to play with. Can't go back, once it's gone, it's gone. Quote
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