Hasbro E-11 Build

[Gedstar]

Fantastic.

 

 

I think this is the first thread of the 8 million I have read to mention the coiled wires.

 

 

Many thanks.

 

[Jorran]

Fantastic.

 

 

I think this is the first thread of the 8 million I have read to mention the coiled wires.

 

 

Many thanks.

 

Happy to help! The wire I used is from a company called Southwire and is called "Primary Wire." It's 16 gauge black electrical wire. Not sure how much that helps you across the pond, but hopefully it gets you headed in the right direction.

Edited December 1, 2010 by Jorran

[Wiggleplum]

Thanks all! One quick update for tonight: I drilled out the extra row of holes on the port side of the blaster. I'm fairly happy with the result:

 

 

Jim, for glue I bought E6000 based on reading several of the build threads here. For filler I bought Bondo Body Filler. I've never used it before so I'm a little nervous about ending up sealing the blaster to our dining room table.

 

 

What drill bit did you use for those holes?

[pandatrooper[TK]]

I used a unibit to enlarge 1/8" pilot holes. If you try and use a big drill bit, it will tear the plastic and makes the holes misaligned.

[Wiggleplum]

I used a unibit to enlarge 1/8" pilot holes. If you try and use a big drill bit, it will tear the plastic and makes the holes misaligned.

 

Thanks Panda, I will pick one of those up.

[Jorran]

I used a Dremel to knock out those holes. I started with a small metallic bit to start the holes and then progressively larger ones until I was happy. If you've got the drill and the right bits, Terry's suggestion probably works a lot better. I had to spend a lot of time trimming out the melted plastic from the inside of the holes where the Dremel did its damage.

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

Hey Jorran,

 

Great looking hasbro... I hope mine comes out as half as good as yours.

 

Would you mind describing your process to hallow out the scope rail? What dremel bits did you use etc?

 

Mine is rapidly becoming a mess. I had to walk away from it today after the dremel got away from me a few times.

 

Aloha,

 

-Eric

[Eric]

beautiful blaster. job well done

[Jorran]

Would you mind describing your process to hallow out the scope rail? What dremel bits did you use etc?

Thanks for the compliments, Erics 1 and 2.

 

Hawai'i Eric, I didn't use a dremel for hollowing out the scope rail. Instead, I used an x-acto knife and scored all the way around the inner edges repeatedly until I was able to snap the inner plastic out. It took a long time, but I felt like I had more control that way than with the dremel. This process is much easier if the blaster is split into its two halves first. Once it was hollow, I sanded down the rough areas and then used bondo to fill in the seam once the halves were screwed back together.

 

Hope this helps!

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

Well it seems that everything is easier when you split the blaster in half. My scope rail is torn up now after jabbing it repeatedly with a dremel. I doubt anyone but me will notice all said and done. Now I'm sitting here with an exacto cleaning up a mess that I could have prevented... so it goes. Sometimes being impatient takes way more time.

 

This process is fun and cheap enough that I might just do two hasbros.

 

Luckily the orange tip and the rail I ground off where the holes will go went more smoothly. Although I need to put a couple drops of solder on the LED on the front for good measure.

 

I'm going to try and drill the holes today without splitting the blaster. I'm hoping that a slow drill press and good clamping to the press table will prevent the bit from wandering around.

 

One more question Michael (this post)... how did you end up masking the LED from getting sprayed?

 

Aloha!

 

-Eric

 

Thanks for the compliments, Erics 1 and 2.

 

Hawai'i Eric, I didn't use a dremel for hollowing out the scope rail. Instead, I used an x-acto knife and scored all the way around the inner edges repeatedly until I was able to snap the inner plastic out. It took a long time, but I felt like I had more control that way than with the dremel. This process is much easier if the blaster is split into its two halves first. Once it was hollow, I sanded down the rough areas and then used bondo to fill in the seam once the halves were screwed back together.

 

Hope this helps!

[Jorran]

I'm going to try and drill the holes today without splitting the blaster. I'm hoping that a slow drill press and good clamping to the press table will prevent the bit from wandering around.

 

One more question Michael (this post)... how did you end up masking the LED from getting sprayed?

For the holes on the barrel, I used the dremel. I marked them off with a pencil first, and then used a very small bit to get a pilot hole started. Then I gradually worked up in size on the bits until I had the holes the diameter that I wanted. You'll want to remove some of the small plastic parts inside the barrel if you use this method, as they can throw off the dremel.

 

For the LED, I cut a small bit of plastic screen protector (like you might buy to protect the screen on your smart phone or ebook reader) and put it over the LED. Then I closed up the blaster and sprayed everything. At the end of the spraying process I used a pair of tweezers to pull off the screen protector and it worked like a charm.

[steelgrip]

I like it!

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

 

For the LED, I cut a small bit of plastic screen protector (like you might buy to protect the screen on your smart phone or ebook reader) and put it over the LED. Then I closed up the blaster and sprayed everything. At the end of the spraying process I used a pair of tweezers to pull off the screen protector and it worked like a charm.

 

Brilliantly clever! Hopefully I can find someplace nearby that sells screen protectors at a reasonable price. Here on Hawai'i island you get one or the other. Close by or somewhat reasonably priced. Rarely both at once. I wonder if a bit of saran wrap might do the trick.

 

In other hasbro blaster news I was able to grind away just a little bit of the screw tab under the barrel as to fit the folding stock over it. I didn't have to grind the screw at all, just plastic.

 

Thin files have been my friend in cleaning the plastic up. I have small triangular and a round rasps that do the trick inside the front sight and scope rail.

 

I think I just need some final sanding on the barrel before I drill holes (without splitting the body.)

 

Aloha and thanks again for your help.

 

-Eric

[jojosochi[TK]]

Nice work.

 

I just receive my resin today, I'm still new in assambling, need to get my tools and start working. Thanks for the sharing and tips

[BananoPower22[TK]]

Make a new build thread! Snap some pictures and be sure to ask questions if you've got some

[Jorran]

Juan is exactly right! Everyone loves a shiny new build thread, especially those filled with pictures.

[irocink33[TK]]

How did you manage to get the end cap off of the scope? I noticed it on in some pics, off in others with grooves on the side where it looks like it just slides on and off...

 

I appreciate the help.

 

I just started my build tonight, I unscrewed everything, cut the orange tips off the scope and the barrel, good times! But just that darn end cap can't come off. I just don't want to break it if it's needed.

 

Again, thanks!

 

Update, I found an entire thread dedicated to removing that cap. I will see what I can do with that information tomorrow. But in the mean time, if someone has a better idea than a hammer with a flat head screwdriver and doesn't destroy the cap, I am all ears (or eyes as it were)...

Edited June 2, 2011 by irocink33

[Jorran]

Hey Ryan,

 

For the cap on the back of the scope, I used a small flathead screwdriver but not a hammer. I would push the screwdriver in and lightly try to dislodge that one spot, then remove the screwdriver and repeat that process all the way around the cap.

 

This process takes a long time (you might have to go all the way around the cap a few times), but the result was a removed cap that didn't crack and didn't need any repairs when used later, so it was worth the extra time and effort.

[irocink33[TK]]

Hey Ryan,

 

For the cap on the back of the scope, I used a small flathead screwdriver but not a hammer. I would push the screwdriver in and lightly try to dislodge that one spot, then remove the screwdriver and repeat that process all the way around the cap.

 

This process takes a long time (you might have to go all the way around the cap a few times), but the result was a removed cap that didn't crack and didn't need any repairs when used later, so it was worth the extra time and effort.

 

Ahhh so like a small electritions screwdriver. We refer to them as 7-level screwdrivers in my work center. Cool! I'm not in a hurry to get this done, but I want to take my time and work smarter not harder. Thank you!

[ZacMuleer[TK]]

Thanks all! One quick update for tonight: I drilled out the extra row of holes on the port side of the blaster. I'm fairly happy with the result:

 

 

Jim, for glue I bought E6000 based on reading several of the build threads here. For filler I bought Bondo Body Filler. I've never used it before so I'm a little nervous about ending up sealing the blaster to our dining room table.

 

 

Hey Michael - what is the distance you used between the line you drew across the bottom edge of the pre-drilled holes, and the center of the holes that you drilled yourself? I'm not sure where to start the pilot holes.

 

Thanks!

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

 

 

Hey Michael - what is the distance you used between the line you drew across the bottom edge of the pre-drilled holes, and the center of the holes that you drilled yourself? I'm not sure where to start the pilot holes.

 

Thanks!

 

I'm sure Jorran will have a more coherent answer... because I wish I could remember how I knew where to drill those holes... I think I might have download the PVC pipe template from here, printed and measured.

 

Aloha,

 

-Eric

[Jorran]

I checked using a tape measure just now, and from the bottom of the existing holes to the center of the new holes is roughly 9/16" using a tape measure. I think my strategy when I drilled those was to look at as many reference pictures and build threads as possible to see generally where the center of the new row of holes should be. Once I was happy with that spot, I drew the line along the bottom of the existing row as a base from where I could measure from to make sure the new holes stayed consistently separated.

 

Hope this helps!

[TD-3425]

I have a question, as a new and upcoming 501st.

 

I read on the 501st that Hasbro guns were not acceptable, even modifications. Is that old news or have they relaxed that? I bought one of these last week at Disneyland for my kid (Who is going as a clone trooper for halloween) but after that I could certainly mod it. Just don't know if it's worth doing if would not be accepted for trooping. If not, I'll do a PVC build first.

 

Thanks!

 

Southern California Garrison

Inland Empire

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

Aloha 324,

 

A modified hasbro is indeed 501st acceptable. You can even get your Expert Infantry Badge using your hasbro. What you might have read is that a hasbro with the resin modifications is not acceptable for the Centurion level of costuming standard.

 

The base 501st costume requirements read that your E-11 must be: "Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster."

 

Hope this helps,

 

-Eric

 

I have a question, as a new and upcoming 501st.

 

I read on the 501st that Hasbro guns were not acceptable, even modifications. Is that old news or have they relaxed that? I bought one of these last week at Disneyland for my kid (Who is going as a clone trooper for halloween) but after that I could certainly mod it. Just don't know if it's worth doing if would not be accepted for trooping. If not, I'll do a PVC build first.

 

Thanks!

 

Southern California Garrison

Inland Empire

[TD-3425]

Oh that makes sense. Well, I guess my kid loses the toy in a month! heh....

 

Thanks for the quick reply and thanks to all for the updates and picts on this mod here, great job indeed!

Edited September 15, 2011 by Trooper324