Hasbro E-11 Build

[Jorran]

It will be a couple months before I'm able to purchase my armor, but I have been able to start on my Hasbro mod, so here we go!

 

In my main armor build thread on the first post I'm listing everything I've purchased for both my blaster and armor builds, plus where I'm buying them and how much it costs in an effort to help others to get an idea of how much they're going to spend and where to look. That thread is here: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12408

 

As always, we must start with the box!

 

After a few hours of Dremel and Xacto work, I've done the following:

• Taken off the orange muzzle tip
  
• Taken off the front of the scope
  
• Sanded off all of the text
  
• Hollowed out the scope rail
  
• Tried to get the trigger as close to authentic as the Hasbro trigger (and my limited skills) will allow. Thanks to panda for a great reference picture of the authentic trigger.
  

 

Finally to this point I've hollowed out the front sight and eliminated the bottom t-track in preparation for drilling the row of holes that should go there.

 

 

I've purchased the doopydoos resin kit and that should be arriving sometime next week. In addition, a member of our garrison is going to supply the t-track I need. I've also got good reference of the front sight and will hopefully add that little piece as well.

 

So I know it's early on, but please let me know where I can improve what I've started or something that I've missed. I'm having a complete blast working on this and can't wait to see it finished.

[JimCem99[501st]]

Michael, looking good. I'm in the same boat as you (besides the same area); I just started my Hasbro blaster and it will also take a while for me to get the AM or RT-mod armor kit. I was unsure about the glue if I should get E-6000 as I bought at Wal-mart some Loctite plastic epoxy (sets in 7 min.), Loctite instant-mix epoxy (sets in 1 min.) and Loctite Super Glue. I did not see it there but can always return that and go to Jo-Ann's and get the E6000. What type of body filler/bondo are you planning on using?

 

This is what I have so far:

-Hasbro blaster (I've started to sand and bought primer and satin black paint) with Doopydoos kit (which I just got yesterday)

-Under Armour 2-piece HeatGear Compression under suit

-TKboots

-ANH holster from TK8280

-natural color belt from TKittell

-non-latex handguards and gloves from Sonnenschien

-neck seal on order from TK409

 

Good luck!

[Femtrooper Julie[501st]]

Looking great! Hasbros really imprive with the kit!

[Evolver79[TK]]

I'm in the same boat as you guys! My RT kit is on the way as I type! I also just ordered the hasbro blaster & the DoopyDoos kit. I am very interested to swap ideas/info if you are. I have ordered E6000 for the build plus some rare Earth magnets to use in conjunction w/ clamps. If you're considering the RT Mod kit, I highly recommend it! Rob is a stand up guy! Hope to talk soon.

[Jorran]

Thanks all! One quick update for tonight: I drilled out the extra row of holes on the port side of the blaster. I'm fairly happy with the result:

 

 

Jim, for glue I bought E6000 based on reading several of the build threads here. For filler I bought Bondo Body Filler. I've never used it before so I'm a little nervous about ending up sealing the blaster to our dining room table.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Looking good, Michael!

 

For the Bondo, you can use a piece of cardboard or a popsicle stick to scoop out as much as you need, then mix in the hardener. For a golf ball sized portion of filler, you only need a pea sized amount of hardener. A little goes a long way.

 

I tend to only mix what I need. Eg: when filling holes, I would dole out maybe a tablespoon and just a drop (half a pea or less?) of hardener. Mix the two together on a piece of cardboard. Do it outside over some newspaper or cardboard to catch any spills, and wear a mask to avoid the fumes (toxic!). Knead both parts together for about 30 seconds until the color is even. Then you can use a popsicle stick or plastic scrap to spread it over whatever your trying to fill. Don't "play" with it too much, otherwise it won't end up even. Overfill you holes slightly, then you can file / Dremel / sand it down.

 

Good luck!

[JSmails[501st]]

Most Wal-Marts in my area have E6000 for a couple of dollars less than JoAnns or Michaels.

 

If it's not in the epoxy section, by the Loctite stuff, check out the sewing section. It's usually hanging.

[Jorran]

Alright, I had my first round with bondo last night and I have to say that we ended up with a split decision. On the first attempt I ended up using the container-recommended amount of hardener which ended up being WAY too much and resulted in the stuff hardening before I could get it spread evenly.

 

The second attempt went much better using the amounts that Terry mentioned above. Lesson learned: ALWAYS listen to The Panda! Now I just need to go back and sand down the bad spots, redo a few areas, and I'll be ready for the next phase.

 

One question: does bondo form a good bond to itself? There are a couple of areas where I need to add a little more, but I wasn't sure if I should sand it all the way down and start from scratch or just add to the bondo that's already there.

[Jorran]

Not a thrilling update today (darned real life getting in the way and slowing my progress!), but I like to document the entire build.

 

First is a shot of all the screw holes being filled. I still need to do a little cleanup with the Xacto knife on the holes on the handle, but everything turned out fairly well. I'm thinking about losing the back part of the scope and looking for something at Lowe's that is hollowed out and allows me to put a sight decal into the scope a bit. Any suggestions?

 

 

Second is a shot from the other side. The main thing here is that I filled in the front of the scope in preparation for adding the tube that I bought to make it look closer to the real thing. I'll probably add that in the next day or two.

 

 

Now I just need to buy the stuff I need for the t-tracks and wait for the doopydoo kit to arrive. For those that have purchased from them before, do they usually send you a shipping notice or tracking number? It's been a week since my PayPal payment went through and I haven't heard anything yet.

[Tyran]

I bought my Droopy Doos kit from their ebay store. I paid immediately and was sent the shipping confirmation the following day. It did, however take a better part of a week to arrive. It does need to be shipped from the UK so that'll add a bit of time. Have you tried emailing them to ask?

 

Question on the build - How did you fill in the scope? Did you cut a piece of plastic to fit into the opening and glue in place? I still need to buy the Bondo for filling in the holes in my own gun. I've never worked with it personally so I don't know how malleable or easy it is to work with outside of filling holes.

[Jorran]

Question on the build - How did you fill in the scope? Did you cut a piece of plastic to fit into the opening and glue in place? I still need to buy the Bondo for filling in the holes in my own gun. I've never worked with it personally so I don't know how malleable or easy it is to work with outside of filling holes.

First of all, hello from a fellow Kansas Citian!

 

I actually cut a circular piece of cardboard and glued it to the inside of the front of the scope. I waited 24 hours for the glue to seal up and then applied the bondo to that base and filled up the scope hole. It worked well the second time I tried it - I used too much hardener the first time and it was getting solid on me after about 45 seconds. Like Panda said earlier in this thread, for a tablespoon of bondo use about a half a pea of hardener and you'll be set. I had several wide, flat popsicle sticks to apply the mixture to the blaster and smooth it with.

[Tyran]

Hey Jorran! I actually used to live just outside Orlando in Oviedo, even though I'm originally from KC. Small world eh?

 

Thanks for the input! I'm finally wrapping my brain around a lot of this...I just happen to overlook some of the more minor yet important details .I'm still trying to decide how far I'm going to mod this blaster. I need to find some t-tracks still but other than that, I should be set once I get started. I really do like the idea of filling the front of the scope in and adding your own smaller tube to make it look a lot more like the real scope.

Edited September 20, 2010 by Tyran

[Jorran]

Alright, it's certainly been a long time since the last update. I'm entering the home stretch: I've got a little bondo work to do and then a global light sanding job, then I'll be painting next weekend.

 

In the meantime, here's a series of pictures from the assembly of all the Doopy kit pieces. There's probably a hundred better ways to do this than I ended up using, but here's my journey.

 

First, all of the Doopy kit pieces laid out, including the new "demo" pieces I was lucky enough to get:

 

 

Using rubber bands to secure the scope and t-tracks while letting the E-6000 cure:

 

 

More rubber band goodness:

 

 

Clamping on the counter (the rubber bands in the image were not used - just a failed experiment from earlier in the evening):

 

 

Final shots of securing everything:

 

 

 

 

My solution for the rear scope: I cut out a round piece of flat, clear plastic from a tooth brush package and a circular piece of a cereal box. I attached the decal to the box (after trimming around the edge), then glued that to the plastic and the whole unit to the inside of the rear scope piece that comes with the Hasbro. I cut out a hole in that piece first, so there's a little depth to the whole rear sight.

 

 

I'll put the "final" pictures of this round in the next post.

[Jorran]

Front top angle:

 

 

Slightly more head-on:

 

 

Rear angle:

 

[Calculon]

Michael,

 

Looking great. Still wondering if I should go Hasbro or scratch build. If you had the choice today would you go Hasbro again or build from scratch (with the kits available)?

 

Mike

[Jorran]

Michael,

 

Looking great. Still wondering if I should go Hasbro or scratch build. If you had the choice today would you go Hasbro again or build from scratch (with the kits available)?

 

Mike

Thanks Mike!

 

That's a tough question based only on my current housing situation. We're in a small condo with limited work areas and almost no tools, so the Hasbro mod was the easiest thing for me to pull off. If I didn't need to worry about those constraints I would absolutely build from scratch. I'm generally a perfectionist and would love to have a more screen accurate blaster. However, for what it is, I think this has come together pretty well and will satisfy me for a while.

[Laspector[TK]]

I've gone both routes. First the Hasbro then an SR kit. While my kit version CERTAINLY looks better, I miss being able to hear sounds come out of it. Kids always want you to "shoot" them..

 

 

.....And for some kids you just wish the gun was real...Sorry, sorry. Just saying...

[Jorran]

This has been a lot of fun this weekend, along with a few trials. As I've said before in other posts, we're in a condo complex with no workshop, so here's a peek at the ghetto paint "studio" my lovely wife/supervisor and I put together:

 

 

Here's the primer coat, using the Rustoleum plastic primer that one of my garrison mates suggested I use.

 

 

There's a little bubbling on the side of a couple of the resin pieces where I didn't adjust my distance with the spray can enough. After this picture I waited for everything to dry, sanded those areas down, and did it again - less stupidly.

 

Here's a couple of pictures of the silver layer:

 

 

Finally, I taped off the scope and added a copper layer:

 

 

I was hoping to at least get one of the three black top coats done today, but real life has finally caught up with me and I have to put the project away until later this week or next weekend.

[am1sh2el3[501st]]

Will be waiting! This looks great! What brand was your silver and copper paint?

[Jorran]

Will be waiting! This looks great! What brand was your silver and copper paint?

Thanks! Here's the paint I used, in the order that I applied it:

 

• Rust-Oleum Plastic Primer
  
• Valspar Brilliant Metal - Silver
  
• Valspar Metallic - Copper
  
• Rust-Oleum Satin Black (3 coats)
  

I also just purchased several small bottles of Testors paint for touch-up work. I should have that finished tomorrow and final pictures by the end of the weekend.

[Jorran]

Well, I'm finally finished! I'll apologize in advance for the crappy pictures - our camera is ancient and doesn't do well unless I'm outside in perfect lighting. Having said that, here goes the final pictures.

 

First, here she is after the final coat of black sprayed on.

 

 

And after adding the silver detail.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to let it weather naturally over the course of trooping. I've read that suggestion on my garrison's board and I like the idea.

 

This has really been a great project to get my feet wet and I'm very happy with how things turned out. There are a lot of steps that I'd like to try again because I know I would do them better the second time around, but I suspect that's how these builds usually end up. I'm really hoping this passes muster for EIB as well.

 

Now to turn my attention to collecting pennies faster so I can get my box of white plastic as soon as possible...

Edited November 15, 2010 by Jorran

[Calculon]

Well done sir! I hope my Hasbro comes out looking half as good as yours.

 

Quick question... Why the different color layers of paint?

 

Cheers,

[Jorran]

Well done sir! I hope my Hasbro comes out looking half as good as yours.

 

Quick question... Why the different color layers of paint?

 

Cheers,

Thanks, man! Just take your time and do a lot of reading first, both here and in your local garrison forums. I am the least handy person you'll ever meet, but all of the steps you'll need to get a good result are out there.

 

The multiple colors are so that when the black paint inevitably gets chipped away, it will reveal a more realistic metallic undercoat as opposed to the toy white plastic that you start with. The copper in the scope area is something I saw on a lot of other builds - apparently that part of the original E-11s was copper, so this is an attempt to get a tiny bit closer to screen accurate.

[Gedstar]

@ Joran, serioulsy good thread.

 

Cheers.

 

 

We should name you "Master Blaster" but that would be from the wrong film! lol

 

 

Incidently folks. Doopy Doos have a mk2 resin kit out. I have just bought one and it's pretty cool (check it out on Ebay).

 

 

Oh by the way, quick question: what is the curly wire made from and how did you fix it to the E-11? Was it hot glued on?

[Jorran]

@ Joran, serioulsy good thread.

 

Cheers.

 

 

We should name you "Master Blaster" but that would be from the wrong film! lol

 

 

Incidently folks. Doopy Doos have a mk2 resin kit out. I have just bought one and it's pretty cool (check it out on Ebay).

 

 

Oh by the way, quick question: what is the curly wire made from and how did you fix it to the E-11? Was it hot glued on?

Thanks, Ged! I'll gladly defer that "Master Blaster" title to the many other threads that I shamelessly copied while doing my build. There's just so much good information on this forum and my garrison board.

 

Quick note on that Mk2 Doopy Doo resin kit. They have an updated piece already even from the stuff I got in the mail. The power cylinders are new and look fantastic!

 

The wire is basic black electrical wire that I got from a local hardware store (Lowe's). I don't remember the size of the wire off-hand, but I'll check tonight when I get home. The first thing I did was coil the wire around a pencil and put clamps on it. I let that sit for 24 hours and when I took the clamps off I had a really nice coil that was very tight. The wire itself is very firm so it held the shape well.

 

Then I used a dremel to bore out small holes in the back of the power cylinders that were probably a good half inch deep. I covered the ends of the wires in E6000 and stuffed them into the holes, then let them sit for 24 hours. The next day I glued the other ends to the Hengstler counter, again using E6000.