Doopydoo pipe questions

[snoberg]

I have been looking around for dimensions for the pipe needed for the doopydoo's kit. I know I need a 40mm pipe, but what is the exact length it needs to be for proper assembly using the templates in panda's build thread?

[gh05ty]

I beleive its supposed to be somewhere around 18 inches (based on original sterling) but im not 100% sure.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

I used 18.5" per the instructions here from Blaster Builders club. They have the templates too for drilling the holes, etc.

 

http://www.imperial-fleet.com/BBC/community

 

Hope that helps!

Edited August 4, 2022 by gmrhodes13
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[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I make the tube 18 3/8. when it has the end cap on. so it's about 18 and 3/8 plus the added extra for the end cap.

 

with the folding stock front hinge extended about 1/4 " beyond the front of the barrell.

 

and you need to keep in mind that the end cap needs about 1/2 " overlap to fit on.

 

so really the total length is a bit longer than 18 and 3/4

 

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Edited August 4, 2022 by gmrhodes13
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[snoberg]

I'm not going to gripe over 1/4"

 

After some research a true sterling should be 481mm tip to tip in a folded position (18 9/10") in case anyone cares.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

well... you have to account for the hollow end cap.

[snoberg]

Regardless of the depth of the end cap, sterlings are 481mm long, folded... tip to tip. If you really want to split hairs, if you account for the length that the end cap and the muzzle cap add, which is about 1 1/4", the pvc pipe needs to be less than 18" long.

Edited September 2, 2010 by snoberg

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

as long as you follow your instincts then you should be fine.

 

I provided the drawing from the plans on the web... hope that helped...

 

have fun!

 

The measurements you mention does not fully just cover the length of the tube.

those measurements have the end cap, and folding stock front included in that length.

 

if you look closely at the plan provided you can see the length of the tube, and it

properly shows that the folding stock extends in front.

 

so if you made the tube 481mm then the tube would be too long...

Edited September 2, 2010 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[snoberg]

The 18 9/10" (481mm) length of an actual sterling is indeed from the tip of the folding stock to the back of the end cap, I was not planning to make my tube this long. The plans actually seem to have the gun at 19" in length which is pretty close to the 18.93.... inches that 481mm converts to, so we will go with 19"

 

From the scales in the plans, and looking at many images from actual sterlings, I estimate the stock to protrude 1/4" from the tip of the muzzle.

 

Measuring the protrusion of the end cap and muzzle cap when installed flush with ABS/PVC piping, I get a 1 1/4" addition to the length of the barrel when installed.

 

if 19" is the goal, then 1/4 + 1 1/4 + x = 19 where x is the length of the ABS/PVC pipe.

 

17.5" Should be the length of the pipe... math'd!

 

Now before I over analyze this anymore, I am going to start drilling holes, lol.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

but 19 is not the final dimension... it's just on the ruler, but the blaster does not extend to 19"

[snoberg]

19 IS the final length, a true sterling is 481mm (~19") in length from the very back of the butt cap to the tip of the folding stock.

 

Why would blastech just randomly put 19" on their scale? They got it right, the real deal is 18.93... inches long, tip to tip.

Edited September 3, 2010 by snoberg

[TANGO'D FETT]

If its any help i have a real sterling ,overall length from the tip of the stock to the endcap (not including ring) is 19 and a quarter inches or 495mm, front of the receiver tube to the beginning of the endcap is 17 and 5/8ths or 447mm.

 

I have made a few blasters in the past using the downloadable plans available and when i have compared the back section to a real sterling they have been too long, basically the cocking slot extends to where the endcap would be. Remember some are meant for different pipe sizes and also some windows print settings print them larger , i think there are 3 full pagesize options.

if anyone needs any actual sterling measurements just give me a shout

[snoberg]

If its any help i have a real sterling ,overall length from the tip of the stock to the endcap (not including ring) is 19 and a quarter inches or 495mm, front of the receiver tube to the beginning of the endcap is 17 and 5/8ths or 447mm.

 

I have made a few blasters in the past using the downloadable plans available and when i have compared the back section to a real sterling they have been too long, basically the cocking slot extends to where the endcap would be. Remember some are meant for different pipe sizes and also some windows print settings print them larger , i think there are 3 full pagesize options.

if anyone needs any actual sterling measurements just give me a shout

 

 

Awesome info! Thanks man. I think a lot of people forget that the doopydoo end cap actually adds a bit to the overall length, the tube does not mark the end of the gun. With this in mind my tube will be shorter than the 18.5 recommended by a lot of the plans and other builds, this way the overall length of my blaster will be around that 19" mark like it should be.

 

You gotta PM me where you got a hold of a sterling! That must have been a badass find.

[Billhag]

I thought I'd roll the 'Egg-Sperts' out and let them loose on one of my real Sterlings

and take some pic's of them doing their thing

----------

 

 

 

Yerrh gotta love those little guys

 

 

Hope this helps

Edited August 4, 2022 by gmrhodes13
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[pandatrooper[TK]]

The eggsperts do it again! Thanks Bill, very useful guide.

[gh05ty]

If its any help i have a real sterling ,overall length from the tip of the stock to the endcap (not including ring) is 19 and a quarter inches or 495mm, front of the receiver tube to the beginning of the endcap is 17 and 5/8ths or 447mm.

 

Wow my scratchbuilt E11 is 496mm from tip of stock to endcap, and that was mostly guesswork as i didnt download the plans till after the receiver was cut.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

thanks billy... you helped me make my point quite well!

 

the eggsperts strike back!

 

with this kind of detailed information, now anyone with the understanding can properly cut

a receiver tube, and layout the plan template and cut with peace of mind.

Edited September 5, 2010 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[snoberg]

thanks billy... you helped me make my point quite well!

 

 

What point was that might I ask? That I am wrong? Cause that is what all of your replies seem to imply. You said not to cut a tube to 481mm, but I never said to cut a tube to 481mm, I said 481 is about what a sterling should be, and all final measurements put it just around 19", which is what I was saying the whole time, rofl.

 

If you cut a doopydoo tube at 18.5", your blaster will be too long, period, thats the only point I have been trying to make this whole time.

Edited September 6, 2010 by snoberg

[Billhag]

Guys

I don’t think its that important if it’s a few mil out here and there. I think the main thing is

to get the perspective and appearance right.

I’ve seen loads and loads of pipe builds that are just a wee bit off here and there

because parts have been positioned slightly out with a knock on effect that when you

look at them something registers subliminally and bugs the life out of you

(or that could just be me )

The one that bugs me the most is the front of the muzzle/ bayonet discs protruding way,

way past the front of the folding stock, drives me frigging doolalee every time I see it.

 

-------

 

 

I know in the scheme of things it doesn’t really matter because it still looks like a E11 blaster

but as with everything, if you do a little bit of research, pull up a few pictures of the real thing

and see where all the parts go you can make it as accurate as possible and make it look a million

times better from the start.

Edited August 4, 2022 by gmrhodes13
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[snoberg]

On 9/6/2010 at 7:50 PM, Billhag said:

Guys

I don’t think its that important if it’s a few mil out here and there. I think the main thing is

to get the perspective and appearance right.

I’ve seen loads and loads of pipe builds that are just a wee bit off here and there

because parts have been positioned slightly out with a knock on effect that when you

look at them something registers subliminally and bugs the life out of you

(or that could just be me )

The one that bugs me the most is the front of the muzzle/ bayonet discs protruding way,

way past the front of the folding stock, drives me frigging doolalee every time I see it.

 

---------

 

 

I know in the scheme of things it doesn’t really matter because it still looks like a E11 blaster

but as with everything, if you do a little bit of research, pull up a few pictures of the real thing

and see where all the parts go you can make it as accurate as possible and make it look a million

times better from the start.

 

I agree, like I stated earlier I am not going to gripe over 1/4", I do have a problem with people insisting I am wrong when I am not, and pressing the issue to no end.

Edited August 4, 2022 by gmrhodes13
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[poisonfox]

The ten year olds that see us and smile from ear to ear and other folks inspired by our white plastic and attention to detail don't care one bit about whether or not our blasters are accurate within a 1/4 of an inch, if our tube stripes are the proper shade of blue, or the tears are ANH or ESB! How anal you want to get is a strictly personal choice. Let's not forget that we all came into this hobby for different reasons, but one commonality is our shared love of sharing Star Wars.

 

Now shake hands you two!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

it's just for the sake of accuracy. there is no problem in that.

 

don't read this as a debate, or an argument. read it as the quest for accuracy.

 

this is the purpose of the FISD. to be accurate, and to accept that people also have their own opinion.

 

I have no need to : "shake hands" because in the end... I knew someone like billy, or andy would chime in

 

and give us all the information we all need to build up a kit.

 

thanks to everyone in this thread, now we have billy's excellent advice to either take, or ignore.

[snoberg]

it's just for the sake of accuracy. there is no problem in that.

 

don't read this as a debate, or an argument. read it as the quest for accuracy.

 

this is the purpose of the FISD. to be accurate, and to accept that people also have their own opinion.

 

I have no need to : "shake hands" because in the end... I knew someone like billy, or andy would chime in

 

and give us all the information we all need to build up a kit.

 

thanks to everyone in this thread, now we have billy's excellent advice to either take, or ignore.

 

It becomes a debate when you point someone out for being wrong, when they are not, then continue to press the issue. It is a trend I see all the time in threads you chime in on.

 

Then completely refusing to man up and shake hands over it, not terribly mature or classy either.

 

That is my 2 cents, I would suggest giving this derailed thread a nice fat lock at this point.

Edited September 7, 2010 by snoberg

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

well... I hope you like billys advice.

 

have fun.

 

here's a photo of a recent Doopy Do's kit I made up:

 

This is my version of the london prop store blaster... it features a few changes on the normal

blaster we usually see for ESB.

 

U channel aluminum T Tracks. and a U channel Sight rail, along with a farther back

scope location.

 

normally it would sport the m19 scope, but I swaped that out for an M38 copy.

 

-----------

 

it has a light in the scope that's motion activated, and the D ring is metal, and works.

 

the end cap comes off, and the cocking channel is ready for the mounting of speakers and electronics.

 

I guess that's the reason why I cared so much... I wanted to help you out.

 

=================

 

the only thing I can add to this discussion, is that the plan I put up is the blaster builders club plan,

 

it was not created by "blastech" and on that plan the statement is made 18 3/8" long.

 

from billy's measure we get 18. so there must have been some welding work to put together the blaster

 

builders club Demill sterling. because billy is in the UK and he can have sterlings that have not

 

been cut up into pieces and then re-welded together.

 

this, and the printing variances some people get, can all cause a lot of confusion.

Edited August 4, 2022 by gmrhodes13
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[pandatrooper[TK]]

In the BBC forum post, the builder states 18.5" pipe length, that's where I got my dimensions from. I just noticed that in the printed plans, it says 18 3/8" as well. I guess my E-11 is a bit long.

 

I have a simple solution if what we're after is "perfect accuracy" of a Sterling.

 

Make the pipe 20" long, and mock up the pieces and measure the total length. Obviously, it will be longer than an actual Sterling. Then simply do the math and reduce the pipe length to make the total overall length "accurate".

 

I think it just depends on what you're going for: an "as close as possible to the real thing replica" or a troopable prop.

 

For mine, I just made the pipe to 18.5", and my ABS pipe isn't even the accurate diameter (I couldn't find any 40mm PVC pipe in Canada). But for me, it's close enough for trooping and the kids don't notice.

 

There's plenty of other things in the Doopys pipe kit that aren't 100% accurate, but they are close. Those smaller details can be modified and or replaced if necessary.