First Armor build - ST-AA[*SDS]

[HaVoK]

Hey all. I got a ST-AA set of armor about two months ago and came around here asking some tips on trimming when I first got started but got sidetracked with life, bah!

I don't know if it's even possible or not to get it finished on time but I'm going to Celebration V and want to wear my armor for at least part of one day!

 

I've got most of the parts trimmed and need some advice on others which I'll show pics later but as for today or tomorrow.

 

I'm doing a bit of final shopping at Lowes, Home depot, Walmart, Et cetera.

 

[edit]

I've found most of what I'm looking for except for the screws that go into the ears and straps I'd use for the harness/armor suspension system.

 

I haven't decided on a harness/strap system either, whether it be velcro, button/snap, or rivets.

I've looked at Dave's youtube videos as well as Stuka trooper's flickr albums.

 

Is a snap system like Stuka's the best way to go? Or is there better setup I've missed looking around.

 

Thanks for the help!

[DarkTrooper[TK]]

Mike aka TK-4510 has most of those parts you're looking for available on his website. Did you not get screws, neck & brow trim with your ATA? My kit was complete with all the parts when I got mine. There are a couple very good ATA builds posted on the TE derived armor section.

[FIVE[501st]]

That's what I was going to say... get all the parts from TK-4510.

 

Also, as much as I understand your desire to finish the armor by CV, unless you have every waking hour between now and then free to work on it, then I would say it's better to miss CV and do it right than rush just for "one con."

 

There will be other cons... and, before you know it, you'll be on your way to one of them with your pristine, done correctly, armor you can be totally proud of.

 

It's worth it to do it right is my point.

 

As for snaps, the heavy-duty ones are it.

 

As for better strapping system; all my armor has used "quick release" back-pack clips of various sizes and configurations (side release, top release, etc.) as well as Velcroâ„¢ and E-6000 glue. I think I'm going to do snaps on my next set of armor, but I have always been happy with this set up.

 

Hope that helps man!

And please, TAKE YOUR TIME!! It's an investment, you want to do it right!

[Midnyt17]

The ATA kit is supposed to come with the screws and trim for the helmet. Even the lens. I just finished building mine.

[HaVoK]

Yeh I'm taking my time, Luckily no work this week or next so maybe even if I take it I can pull it off!

If not, I'm still going to CV and I'll make the armor extra nice for Halloween!

 

Maybe I have an offshoot of ATA or a used (never put together) one and someone forgot the extras, while it may be it still looks pretty sharp and good or comparable or maybe there was a mistake. It's okay though, I'll take the hit and make the best of it.

All I have is the armor + helmet pieces and the hovi mix mic tips.

 

I emailed TK-4510 out of interest for the brow and neck trim, as well as the ANH vinyl decals, I'd pay him for overnight or express shipping I mentioned.

 

I found 1/8" x 3mm rivets today and a rivet hand tool and everything else but the snaps/snap tool, some kind of acetate for the eyes, screws and a hobby file that I was planning to use on the eyes.

 

Thanks for being so kind you guys, in a little bit I'll post pics of some trims I've done to double check if they have too much or if I missed something.

[HaVoK]

Started going through and looking at the rough trims I did, going to begin sanding and trimming closer now. Here's one area I'm not sure of as the neck is odd on the front chest piece and two shoulder pieces where the straps would go over.

 

I guess it's best to trim around the neck or slowly sand untill that kind of crinkled odd plastic is gone?

 

 

*Edit*

Shopping trip for today completed:

 

Hope I got the right things.

 

Couple concerns, the Rust-oluem spraypaint now says "50% faster coverage high output tip" and the primer says "2x the coverage" on the can, I didn't see those in TK-4510's tutorials.

Edited August 3, 2010 by HaVoK

[tkrestonva[TK]]

I'd also pick up some rare earth magnets to hold the long seams (thighs, calves, forearms) closed while the E6000 dries, and a metal ruler for neat score/snap lines.

 

Other than that, it looks like you've got just about everything needed.

[HaVoK]

I'd also pick up some rare earth magnets to hold the long seams (thighs, calves, forearms) closed while the E6000 dries, and a metal ruler for neat score/snap lines.

 

Other than that, it looks like you've got just about everything needed.

 

I knew I forgot something, looks like I'll have to go out again tomorrow.

Does lowes or somewhere elsecarry those? I looked at ace hardware's website and some reviews said the earth magenets ace carries are "weak"

[pandatrooper[TK]]

I would trim that neck line more. I use lexan scissorsm, then some sandpaper to clean up the edge and take the sharpness off.

[tkrestonva[TK]]

I bought my rare earth magnets online. I used K&J Magnetics, but I understand that Applied Magnets offers the same quality for less money.

 

http://www.magnet4less.com

 

http://www.kjmagnetics.com

[HaVoK]

I don't think I have enough time to order magnets from online as I was going to start final trimming and glue/shimming tomorrow, I'll try to find somewhere local. Thank you though!

 

Also for the chest piece, is this more along the lines of what I should do?

 

Edited August 4, 2010 by HaVoK

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Yes, that's how I trimmed mine. I found that ATA sometimes has the "bumpy lines" left from the molds / buck. You can usually follow the line. Try maintain as much of the return edge / rounded corners as possible.

[HaVoK]

Yes, that's how I trimmed mine. I found that ATA sometimes has the "bumpy lines" left from the molds / buck. You can usually follow the line. Try maintain as much of the return edge / rounded corners as possible.

 

There's a return edge/rounded corner on the bottom of the chest piece and arms but not on the neck, I think the only way I could make it have one is by not trimming that material and somehow heating it and bending the plastic down.

I still need to find out what type of screws to use for the ears, as well as materials needed for the fabric part of the suspension system/harness for the armor.

 

I emailed TK-4510, he was really nice about things and kept in quick contact with me as I asked some questions, I sent him the money and he said he could do express shipping on the decals/tube stripes, pinstripe tape, neck and brow trim. I really appreciate it.

 

[edit]

Also I just did some digging and mine is not ATA armor, that's why it didn't come with the extra parts needed to assemble. It's a recast of TE called "ST-AA" in 60ga (15mm)Styrene.

 

Please don't think the maker of ATA forgot parts or I got jipped by him. He's quality and stands by his work from what I've seen.

Edited August 4, 2010 by HaVoK

[HaVoK]

Was rough trimming the forearms and they just look odd, are the forearms supposed to be this wonky / unsymmetrical? Or they're bad pulls because mine is recast

 

[DarkTrooper[TK]]

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The straighter one is the right.

Edited May 2, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working

[pandatrooper[TK]]

How to identify the arm parts

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Edited May 2, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working

[Volumino]

Was rough trimming the forearms and they just look odd, are the forearms supposed to be this wonky / unsymmetrical? Or they're bad pulls because mine is recast

 

 

 

Your armor is ROTJ derived so all your parts have some differences between ANH.

that explains the wonky arm parts.

[HaVoK]

Thanks for the help all, and ah.. That's interesting Volumino.

 

Noticed something, if you flip the armor over and look at the inside of it, sometimes you can make out the return edge better or near where you should trim? Rather then looking on the outside.

[runewolf]

You might have luck finding the ear screws if you look for screws used for the cover plates for light switches. Then all you have to do is find a nut to fit them and you are good.

[HaVoK]

Thanks for the help again, I'll look into that runewolf, I was stuck on what size screws to use for that.

 

Some more questions with pics:

 

Would it hurt to use some bondo to fill in those depressions on the underside of those two teeth and that little dent under the left eye?

Also, should I trim along the brow? Looking around some people trim that and some people I saw left it.

(I also noticed the center tooth doesn't line up with the centerpoint of the helmet, I looked through other helmets and noticed the same thing. How odd!)

 

Does it look okay to trim along the lines I penciled in?

(Shin on left, thigh on right, kneepad on top)

 

Along the top of the left shin piece, the plastic turns out and points upwards instead of making a nice edge should that be trimmed? I wish I had a heat sealing iron like stuka, I looked around a little while I was shopping and didn't see one. Is there a place to get one locally in the USA?

 

On the top of the thigh piece to the right, Should I trim along the pencil line I made next to the red #1?

Edited August 6, 2010 by HaVoK

[SydB1974]

 

 

 

Along the top of the left shin piece, the plastic turns out and points upwards instead of making a nice edge should that be trimmed? I wish I had a heat sealing iron like stuka, I looked around a little while I was shopping and didn't see one. Is there a place to get one locally in the USA?

 

 

 

I'm getting ready to start an ATA build and have been researching all of the different tools. If you have a HobbyTown USA near you, you can get the heat sealing iron there. you may be able to order it online as well @ http://www.hobbytown.com. they're only $19.99!

[HaVoK]

I'm getting ready to start an ATA build and have been researching all of the different tools. If you have a HobbyTown USA near you, you can get the heat sealing iron there. you may be able to order it online as well @ http://www.hobbytown.com. they're only $19.99!

 

Well shoot, I actually do have one around 25 minutes away. Maybe I can do some return edges on things I haven't trimmed too short after all.

 

Thanks for the help again Everyone, I'll look into that runewolf, I was stuck on what size screws to use for the ears.

 

Some more questions with pics:

 

Would it hurt to use some bondo to fill in those depressions on the underside of those two teeth and that little dent under the left eye?

Also, should I trim along the brow? Looking around some people trim that and some people I saw left it.

(I also noticed the center tooth doesn't line up with the centerpoint of the helmet, I looked through other helmets and noticed the same thing. How odd!)

 

Does it look okay to trim along the lines I penciled in?

(Shin on left, thigh on right, kneepad on top)

 

Along the top of the left shin piece, the plastic turns out and points upwards instead of making a nice edge should that be trimmed? (Thanks Syd for pointing out I can get a Heat sealing iron at Hobbytown USA)

 

On the top of the thigh piece to the right, Should I trim along the pencil line I made next to the red #1?

Edited August 6, 2010 by HaVoK