Darth-Felth Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) I'm using the rustoleum that everyone suggests and doing everything in the directions including waiting a few min before applying 2nd and final coat... It looks GOOD. But I know I could get a smoother appearence. I'ts not orange peel but it does have a tiny bit of texture. My question is, did I do something wrong? Or can I give it a light polish or buff after it cures a good long while? Edited July 7, 2010 by Darth-Felth Quote
FIVE[501st] Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) After a week you can polish it down and if you need to do a few more coats. You may just have too much humidity or something. It's very tricky stuff. You've watched "-----" and all I'm guessing? Edited December 5, 2020 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020 Quote
Darth-Felth Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) On 7/8/2010 at 2:48 AM, No said: After a week you can polish it down and if you need to do a few more coats. You may just have too much humidity or something. It's very tricky stuff. You've watched "-----" and all I'm guessing? Yep. Tennessee. Hot and humid as hell. But the last few evenings have been very mild and the barometer said the humidity was low when I painted a couple parts yesterday. What do you polish the paint with? Novus? Edited December 5, 2020 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020 Quote
Madmartigan Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 I think it is near impossible to get perfect. Even when 90% of a piece looks great, you'll likely still have a spot or two without that shine. In those cases, I'd use Novus or even a super fine sanding kit (2000, 4000, 8000, 12000 grit, etc.). Quote
DarkTrooper[TK] Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 Here's a piece I was working on. Rustoleum gloss black. wet sanded with 1500 grit then worked up from 3200 to 6000 grit then polished with Meguiar's Scratch X polishing compound. It takes time to get a mirror/ABS-like finish but its worth it. Quote
Darth-Felth Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Posted July 7, 2010 That is simply beautiful darktrooper! How many coats of paint did you put on prior to all that finishing work? Quote
DarkTrooper[TK] Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 That is simply beautiful darktrooper! How many coats of paint did you put on prior to all that finishing work? I wanna say I did two coats on top of a primer. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) paint is liquid. if you get it to make a shiny surface while you're painting then it will cure that way. sanding and painting multiple coats is usually the ticket. every time I paint there is some flaw that needs to be sanded out. wet sanding the paint is always the process you'll need to use. the paint has to cure completely before you sand it, or it will ball up. I tack with warm water and a light cloth, and then give my paint a quick rubdown with rubbing alcohol very lightly to take off all sanding dusts. before painting I let the part sit for 24 hours. I wait a week between painting sessions, of 2 coats at a time. I paint the parts laying on a flat surface to minimise runs. I've been painting when it's about 75-80d and then I let the paint tack up. then I bring it inside the house which brings it down to 70 and let the parts sit in air conditioning. I have a skylight in my kitchen so the sunlight really helps the next morning to solidify the surface. the paint is still soft after 3 days, so I just handle it carefully. Edited July 7, 2010 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote
TK-4510[501st] Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 I have noticed that if you paint your helmet assembled it causes more headaches with uneven paint and runs etc.. Now I assemble the helmet, disassemble and paint, then assemble again after its completely dry. You have less chance of screw ups and less angles to work when painting. I put a little tiny bit of white grease or vasaline under the screw heads so they dont pull on the paint when re assembling. Quote
chaosticbunny Posted July 7, 2010 Report Posted July 7, 2010 Some damn good tips on here, thanks guys Quote
Madmartigan Posted July 8, 2010 Report Posted July 8, 2010 I have noticed that if you paint your helmet assembled it causes more headaches with uneven paint and runs etc.. Now I assemble the helmet, disassemble and paint, then assemble again after its completely dry. You have less chance of screw ups and less angles to work when painting. I put a little tiny bit of white grease or vasaline under the screw heads so they dont pull on the paint when re assembling. Now you tell us! I was following your old videos and tutorials. Fortunately, both my buckets still came out looking great. To Mike you should listen! Quote
FIVE[501st] Posted July 8, 2010 Report Posted July 8, 2010 I have noticed that if you paint your helmet assembled it causes more headaches with uneven paint and runs etc.. Now I assemble the helmet, disassemble and paint, then assemble again after its completely dry. You have less chance of screw ups and less angles to work when painting. I put a little tiny bit of white grease or vasaline under the screw heads so they dont pull on the paint when re assembling. Really?!?! Hmmm.... interesting... Quote
sskunky Posted July 8, 2010 Report Posted July 8, 2010 The uneven finish is usually caused from overspray. the overspray drys before it hits the surface creating the dull finish. This is vurtually unavoidable from rattle cans. You will have a nice glossy shine with some areas showing a matt dusty surface. These guys have given you some sound advice. Let it dry completely for at least a week and if possible depending on how thick the layers of paint maybe two weeeks it's better tobe patient than balls it up and have to strip it all down and start again. Quote
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