wich glue to use on ATA parts

[Quebectrooper]

i got standard grade yellow abs cement glue but it doesn't hold good on ATA parts like on my AP or FX parts ?

[Darth_Finger]

E-6000 works pretty good.

[TK_LEPER]

E-6000 works pretty good.

 

Second that!

[Quebectrooper]

ok i'm running to the store

[dashrazor]

i am using plumbers goop , 2 part epoxy (for ridged parts) and hot glue for reinforcing the other 2 glues and tacking

 

oh and also super glue

Edited June 24, 2010 by dashrazor

[ThayNerd[TK]]

Second that!

 

LOL I'll third that.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

I use E6000 and Plastic Weld. It's styrene, so plastic weld works great on it when bonding it to more styrene or ABS.

[ajax407[TK]]

LOL I'll third that.

Fourth.

 

E6000, hands down the best way to go IMHO.

 

It's amazing, it says so on the tube.

[TK-6162[501st]]

E-6000..hands down! Plastic Weld is really nice to have around too

[Midnyt17]

Do airlines allow E6000 in luggage? Not carry on. Just luggage. 'Cos it isn't available in the Philippines and I was thinking of getting some brought home by my uncle.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

E-6000 and styrene react to produce heat warping on snap tabs!

 

while e6000 and ABS don't have as strong a reaction!

 

e6000 needs to be used in a large bead. it's like a flexible but hard type of 'rubberized' cement.

 

does anyone else have the heat reaction and snap tabs problem with hips?

[TK-7980]

Yes, I have. It warped on my arms, shoulder straps and various other parts.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

I assembled most of my ATA styrene kit with E6000 with no problems. As described, sand both surfaces, spread E6000 on both surfaces - don't over apply it in a thick bead, it doesn't work that way. Don't apply it to the metal on snap plates, just use it on plastic to plastic, or for snap plates use Plastic Weld instead, again avoid applying it to the metal backing of snaps, it seems to cause a bad reaction.

 

I applied covers strips with E6000, and assembled most of my joins with it, and it works fine.

[SCtrooper20]

I have the same problem on my ATA. I used it to glue the front side of the shoulder straps to the chest, and after a few days I notice a soft spot on the inside of the chest where the strap is glued on the left inside. Does to much glue cause this or is to much pressure applied from the clamps???

[pandatrooper[TK]]

You’re probably using too much glue.

 

Sand both sides, and apply the E6000. Spread it out so that the surface is covered, but it doesn’t need to be thick. Also avoid spreading it too thin (to the point where the plastic shows through because you’re spread / scraped away too much). Spread some on the other surface. Let both parts sit for 2 mins or so to let the adhesive set up. The whole idea with contact adhesives if that you’re spreading it into the small scratches from sanding the surface, imbedding the glue. Then when both glued surfaces contact each other, you get a bond.

 

Clamp the parts together, you don’t need to crank it down like a vice, just make sure there is good solid contact and constant pressure for 24 hours.

[SCtrooper20]

Then I might have used to much. Its just on one side though. Anything to reinforce it so it get more damaged later do the road

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

e 6000 works fine on ABS, but with styrene hips it softens the plastic, and warps.

 

does plastic weld do that? I would think that plastic weld would melt styrene even more!

 

it works fine if you keep it thin, but thin is just not as strong. e6000 is like rubber cement when thin.

 

what type of glue will not react to metals in contact with hips?

 

it sure would be nice to know a type of glue that will not react to snaps, and create heat warping from

 

webbing. I've even noticed that hips does not stand up well under clamping forces in a glue situation.

 

and then when you combine a painted surface, with glue and clamping force, you end up with

 

less than desireable results!!

 

pressure, heat during curing and paint and hips turns into a soupy mess.. like water until the

 

glue cures a little, and the plastic stays like butter. then you're forced to use bondo

 

or somthing to fix it. or just take that ruined armor part and make it into a zombie trooper

 

part.

 

I think e6000 is fine for pure styrene on styrene, but put too much, or add another ingredient and

too much glue, and too much clamping force can really have bad results.

 

can anyone suggest a better glue for snap tabs?

 

thanks for the post below!

 

I'll try some tests with both types of glues on my upcoming styrene build.

Edited August 17, 2010 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[dashrazor]

i used loctite plastix bonder with excellent results on my ata snap parts and overall assembly. plumbers goop is a good alternative to e6000 for flexable parts, they are both silicon based epoxies made by the same manufacturer, goop is faster drying and less volatile to plastics

---------

Edited February 25, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link not working removed

[Amish Trooper]

Insta cure is nice too. Usually at local hobby shobs

[stormtrooperguy[501st]]

Jumping in on this... if you use the All Purpose cement from the plumbing aisle it holes HIPS perfectly. Anything but the all purpose is doomed to fail. I'm probably going to go that route myself since I have a ton of it and it's held my clones together well.

 

The key with that is to use it like you were doing plumbing. Thin coats on both parts, then rub them together a bit before final placement. The cement dissolves the surface of the plastic a bit, so when you rub them together you are ensuring that the softened parts blend well together. Once the solvents evaporate you'll have a nice, permanent bond.