Pyro[TK] Posted May 13, 2010 Report Posted May 13, 2010 What should I use to trim my ata armor? I used scissors for my mando but it didn't have so many curves I was thinking of buying a dremal but I don't know what blade to use or if it will work Quote
ajax407[TK] Posted May 13, 2010 Report Posted May 13, 2010 I'm using the good old fashioned score and snap method. Use a sharp blade and take your time are the words I live by. I finish up by hand sanding it or using the dremel with the sanding drum if I need to take more down. At least that's what works for me. Good luck and have fun! Quote
Chunk[501st] Posted May 13, 2010 Report Posted May 13, 2010 Im not sure what ATA Armor is made out of. But I have a FX. I marked with a pencil & used a dremil. The dremil I used I bought at Harbor Freight for $7. So you don't need to go out & buy the most expensive one at the store. I used a corse sanding drum & it took off my excess very quickly. I did both theigh tops in under 5min, & I was being extra carful. Make sure ou wear goggles if you use a dremil. It WILL kick up lots of plastic right into your face. Quote
pandatrooper[TK] Posted May 13, 2010 Report Posted May 13, 2010 Get some curved lexan scissors from a hobby shop they're used for cutting RC car bodies. Quote
Amish Trooper Posted June 5, 2010 Report Posted June 5, 2010 Get some curved lexan scissors from a hobby shop they're used for cutting RC car bodies. Those work well. Some people like to use a hot knife too. I have tried all that has been mentioned and really I use all that has been mentioned. I mix and match for certain areas Quote
SuperTrooper Posted June 6, 2010 Report Posted June 6, 2010 The hot knife works better for ABS. I use the curve RC scissors, an a dremel with a fine grit sanding drum the most. Quote
carbonitekid Posted June 6, 2010 Report Posted June 6, 2010 I used a Dremmel with thin (1mm ) grinding discs to cut away most of the excess the the dremel coupled with a small sanding drum to take it closer in. Then just sand with a fine grade paper. An alternate trick I have used on plastic for years is to uise the angled edge of a 6"steel rule to scrape a smooth edge. Takes some practice but is especially good at getting rid of burrs. Quote
theunemployedstormtroopers Posted June 7, 2010 Report Posted June 7, 2010 The blood inside my lid is infact real! So now my hot knife has become my new best friend followed by a knock off dremel tool. The hot knife can leave a nasty goopey edge if real hot and moved too slow but a tiny sanding drum cleans it up quickly. One thing i would like to mention is choice of hot knifes. I use a simple one that is nothing more then a soldering iron that came with an attachment tip that uses excacto knife blades. Works well but blades seem to dull quicker when hot Quote
troopermaster Posted June 7, 2010 Report Posted June 7, 2010 I use tin snips to trim close to my trim line and then use a Dremel sanding drum to take it to the line. Scrape off the burrs with a utility knife blade and this leave the edges very smooth. A quick rub with some fine grit sand paper and your done Quote
ABS80 Posted June 9, 2010 Report Posted June 9, 2010 (edited) The cleanest and fastest way is the score and snap technique, but this works best for straight cuts on leg, arms and armor parts, for the curved parts I use a dremel at full speed using fiberglass reinforced cutting discs, it cuts like in butter. Mark Edited June 9, 2010 by ABS80 Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 9, 2010 Report Posted June 9, 2010 score lightly first pass, score harder second pass, snap even curves this way by scribing 2x with a sharp blade. scissors for the really complex or difficult curves. sand with 60 grt. done. Quote
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