POLL: What glue have you tried, what actually works

[Vidakovic Igor]

I use Zap a Gap and it is quick and no mess and no waiting for ever. My first glue I tried was Gorilla appoxi 5 min

 

 

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[JulietLimaTango[TK]]

Been searching for reviews on which glue/s to use. Glad I ended up here. Off to buy a couple tubes of e6000!

[flixman]

zap a gap and zip kicker works well

[mdildine[TK]]

E6000 the cologne of true armor builders!

[sskunky]

The connoisseur choice of adhesives is liquid solvent cement period.

[dejango[TK]]

E6000 and CA zapagap

 

 

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[Elumusic[TK]]

I use Acrylic Glue.  IPS Weld on by SciGrip.  Same kind of stuff Mark uses at CFO.  This stuff is permanent.  But if you use too much it will warp your plastic joints.  Great chemical reaction to fuse parts together.

[humperdingle]

Being a relative newbie, I can attest to the fact that ABS solvent is probably best left to those who have a little more building experience
Only use this on ABS if you are absolutely 100% certain of positioning, and you have all the clamps, magnets, etc, to hand, ready to go.
It can really spoil your day if you need to remove bits that have been solvent welded

Edited October 27, 2016 by humperdingle

[TK-7828]

On all my 3 armors i have used 2 part epoxy...hard as %€£ but messy so need to mask everything else than the parts you are gluei g

[TK-7828]

....And apperently it did not work well on my last abs kit...just saw it had cracked by itself

[sylverbard[TK]]

E6000, CA glue, Elmer's thicker CA glue , 2 part 5 min epoxy , ten minute epoxy just do I can mix more and cover larger areas.

[MAD1_TK45001[TK]]

I know its an older tread, but ZAPP worked for me, i was to impatient to do E6000 and after trying ZAPP on extra scrap plastic i had i was hooked...

[Gwithian]

It’s E6000 for me, as I can pull everything apart if I mess something up.... which happens quite often .... doh


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[Linus]

This a great thread that covers the gambit on glues including in depth pros and cons foe E6000 so I thought it would be the best place to pose my question. Hoping others may have stumbled on this as I did searching for E6000 online.

A question on Viscosity:

On Amazon I found two; "High Viscosity (E6000-220011)" and "Medium Viscosity (E6000-230022)". While the description details for each differ somewhat, they both read similarly so I'm not seeing any notable application differences. I presume, the difference is the the thickness or in this case runny factor versus gel-like consistency. 

 

Does anyone have any experience with one or the other, thicker or thinner? I'm thinking the higher viscosity stuff might be better or easier to work with in that it will be a bit tackier, not spread as willingly and therefor not be as messy in terms of ooze or spread factor. Additionally, I had read that some (Cricket among a few) like to let it sit on the ABS before joining to allow it to set just a tad. Perhaps the higher viscosity would help there as well?

 

Any thoughts or experience is much appreciated!

 

Edited April 30, 2018 by Linus

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Just looked at what mine was for my build and it was Medium.  I don't think I'd have wanted to use the thicker one.

[Linus]

I'm guessing the temperature of the room or area where you're applying the glue is perhaps the only factor. If it's a really warm area then maybe the high viscosity might help? Maybe I'll get both and do some testing of spread-evenness , tackiness and squeeze-squirt factors in colder and warmer conditions... 

[TK4205]

Like asking what kind of fruit to use for a fruit pie; It depends on what you have to work with. Here is a fun and accurate glue guide that I found - 

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/

[sskunky]

Like asking what kind of fruit to use for a fruit pie; It depends on what you have to work with. Here is a fun and accurate glue guide that I found - 

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/

Not as accurate as it should be and take it as a rough guide. 

For instance if you are using a liquid solvent as I do then saying “One disadvantage with this glue is that there is only a very limited time to assemble the parts after applying it.  There must also be a good contact between the surfaces to be joined as this is definately not a gap-filler. “

Is wrong. The parts are supposed to be clamped together before applying the liquid. It work through a capillary action then welds the parts together. I’ve found this the cleanest fastest and strongest way to glue abs. I’ve been making and assembling abs parts for over a decade. 

 

 

[TK4205]

My point is, there are more that a few ways to skin a ewok. 

Every plastic has its corresponding adhesive. I'm not about to argue over glue. I've got more in it than your 10 years, btw;) 

[sskunky]

45 minutes ago, TK4205 said:

My point is, there are more that a few ways to skin a ewok. 

Every plastic has its corresponding adhesive. I'm not about to argue over glue. I've got more in it than your 10 years, btw;) 

??? 

This wasn’t a dig at you or a competition about how long you’ve been assembling armour.

I was just correcting some wrong information on a link you provided backed up with some experience. 

I’ll just keep quiet in future as you obviously know more than me as you’ve been doing this for so long. 

 

 

 

 

[Tarragon[TK]]

I used CA glue for all my builds.
I use only thick gel CA & not the standard thin liquid.


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[TK4205]

My favorite is Devcon plastic epoxy. It's great for quick gluing. It fills gaps and sands nicely. It's what I use for ABS. The only down-side is it can discolor plastic if it doesn't get sealed good. There is also a product called Plastic Welder at Ace Hardware. I have built 15+ stormtroopers with it.

 

So far the easiest, cleanest method I have used is CA glue. I guess it depends on if the plastic is getting painted afterwords or not.