vadersfist Posted March 4, 2010 Report Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) Ok so I'm working on my AM build (and lovin' it!) but the glue portion is tying me up. I'm no stranger to glues and epoxys and when I did my OSCS clone, Devcon Epoxy was my hero. Not so on the AM build. I've roughed the ABS up bloody hell, even as far as gouging the plastic with parallel lines to get a better hold. Failed. I know weather has had affects in the past especially with the current cold we have here in NYC but its a real crappy hold. I snapped the shim without even trying and left a finger print in the epoxy... Now we're talking 21hours of an epoxied and fully clamped ABS... Yes I've seen the E6000 and used it before but the Epoxy proved to be so much more stronger... I don't get it. (Pardon my venting here it's just I'm rather pissed and let down by the devcon epoxy right now when it served so well in the past. Not to mention there's always that part of a build where you gain momentum and something as stupid as glue gets in the way to hold you up). Cheerio Edited March 4, 2010 by vadersfist Quote
pandatrooper[TK] Posted March 4, 2010 Report Posted March 4, 2010 Is the OSCS clone kit ABS plastic or styrene or another material? Weather and humidity can affect glue times and bond quality. The AM kit is ABS, so slow setting ABS cement or E6000 would be your best bet. Quote
vadersfist Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Posted March 4, 2010 OSCS is ABS. A pretty thick gauge at that... I may explore my options as far as slow setting ABS cement. I used the same E6000 on my previous FX fit and i did like how rubbery it was and able to pretty much set in AND be able to over lap the glue over the piece a bit to increase the holding strength... Quote
TKittell[501st] Posted March 4, 2010 Report Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) I used the ABS cement. But you have to work fast with it because it sets up fast (it helps to have a friend hold the pieces while you apply the glue). Which by the way is kind of nice. No need to wait overnight to see results and frees up your clamps. I highly recommend buying ceramic magnets to help seal the middle of the long pieces were clamps can't reach (thighs, calves, and forearms). I bought some for CHEAP at Harbor Frieght Tools (I love that place). It's also a great place to buy the clamps. If you go with ABS cement, go with the clear stuff and use masking tape to help keep the pieces free from glue excess. Tape also helps guide what area needs to be glued. Edited March 4, 2010 by TKittell Quote
vadersfist Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Posted March 4, 2010 did you have any issues with warping, bubbling or anything heat related distorting the ABS when the glue was setting in? Quote
pandatrooper[TK] Posted March 4, 2010 Report Posted March 4, 2010 When using E600, the key is to apply the glue to both surfaces and spread it flat with a popsicle stick, etc.. Let both surfaces tack up for a few mins, then join the parts and clamp them for 24hrs. Yes, it's slightly rubbery but that's but only at the beginning and when it's clamped down to a thin layer, you don't notice it. I actually think the slight flexibility is good since it allows the armor to bend slightly rather than being stiff and potentially brittle. Quote
Jag[TK] Posted March 10, 2010 Report Posted March 10, 2010 I've had great success with E6000 and I learned there is no short cut when using it properly. If you do not rough up both sides and then apply it to both sides and let it set for a few minutes, you will appear to have a good bond and then the piece will come apart when you least expect it. The bummer is waiting 24 hours... but I'll wait E6000 is very forgiving unlike other glues. I can accidentally get it on the wrong place and then scrape it up with no damage. The bond (when applied correctly) is very tight, yet if I've glued two pieces together wrong (again), gentle pressure can get those two pieces apart with no damage. Emphasis on "gentle pressure"!!! I was hasty in one incident and wound up tearing a hole the HIPS piece. A hole of all things! You do need to get the old glue off the parts, but depending on where, I've used sandpaper, plastic "razor" blades and my fingernails to get it clean. I'm too sloppy and prone to mistakes to use epoxy. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.