troopermaster

Not getting approval for having the extra hole cut out is pathetic! It's time to start acknowledging Stormtroopers are not clones and some slight variations (as long as they are true to the movie original costumes) should be allowed.

I have some brand new Shire Woodstock boots that I bought for my Son and never worn or painted. I will check the size for you.

I can supply a full Luke replica belt.

Just for the record, I use Newey snaps on my replica builds. Before I scored the Newey snaps I used to use either Prym or Capica snaps. Both are very close in size to the original snaps. I believe the official name for this type of snap is 'S' spring fastener. There are many different brands available on ebay so no excuses not to use the correct type of snaps. And as you say, Germain, these are only good enough to be used in the same places as on the original armour. They are no good at holding armour together.

Well done, Dennis. Looks great

As a rule of thumb, I go 15mm from the top of the ab plate to 15mm up from the bottom and split the difference. The overall distance is usually 114mm from the top rivet to the bottom, with the middle being 57mm. On TM and original ANH armour, there is a line scribed into the ab plate where the rivets should be placed. This line is approximately 10mm in from the edge of the armour. Offer up your kidney plate and mark out the adjacent rivets. Job done

Curved lexan scissors are great for cutting the 1.5mm ABS. I use them for most of the cuts but I also use heavy duty scissors for the long, straight cuts since they are easier and quicker You can leave as much or as little return edges on the parts. You only need a large return for the strapping brackets and everywhere else is up to you Take your time and keep asking questions along the way. But most importantly, have fun and enjoy the build

If you look closely, they are regular pop rivets with washers between the head and belt.

As I said, a losing battle......

I don't know why the CRL's are written the way they are, but I find it so frustrating when I see staff insisting changes be made to screen accurate armour. That is why I always show original armour to conflict staffs' opinions. I know I am fighting a losing battle these day, but I hope some guys will stay true to the original armour no matter what the CRL's say.

Isn't the aim of Centurion to build your kit to screen accurate levels?

Nice comparison photos.

Those look really nice! Looking forward to seeing your teaser

Nice one Billy The truth had to come out eventually It was a pleasure meeting you Ricky and I look forward to helping you with your build. I have no problem with this post so no need to close it. Move along.....

The top decal is for the right hand side as you wear the helmet. When you look at the stripes from the side of the helmet, the are supposed to tilt forwards. You can see the lower decal stripes tilt forward and that goes on this side of the helmet we can see which is the left side.

They had a thin leather belt holding the thighs up. You can see it here on screen and it was also with the original ANH armour supplied to EFX recently.

This is great info. Chris was very lucky to have so much access to the original costume. Kudos to RS Prop Masters and Chris for sharing

Those look really nice. Well done

Nice

Absolutely. The key is finding the melting point prior to heating your belt. You don't get any warning before the belt starts to deform and there is no going back once the damage is done.

I also saw this suit about a year later when the Art of Star Wars exhibition was in Bradford close to where I live. It was not displayed in as good a position as it was at the Barbican Museum where I could see around 3/4 of the whole suit.

I believe the rivets were added after ROTJ was filmed. The movie suits had vac formed ABS shoulder straps that were velcro'd on and probably got lost easily, so they were changed to these vinyl type straps and riveted for security.

I'd just like to point out that you don't have to ever heat my 1.5mm ABS. You just bend it and it flexes without cracking. The belts and knee ammo straps are a breeze to fit. Not so much with my 2mm acrylic capped ABS. That stuff you have to heat bend, the ammo strap anyway. My preferred method is the heat gun. I keep the gun pretty close to the plastic but use a quick, sweeping motion so I don't melt it. I would practise on scrap ABS if you have some to find out the melting point and see where your limits are. Good luck

Nice pics! I remember seeing this suit at the Barbican Art Exhibition in London, mid 2000.