troopermaster

That's more like it! It goes against the grain to put latex hand plates on Nomex gloves. Either go for accuracy with rubber gloves and latex hand plates or comfort with Nomex and ABS hand plates

Not only that, the originals are exactly the same and that's all that matters I have photos of the original RS forearm from the same angle and they are the same. I will see if I can dig it out when I have more time.

The forearms are supposed to be oval.

Make the strips as wide as you need. Having a 15mm strip on a 25mm edge looks awful. Much better to use a 25mm strip if that is what you need. There are no rules for the width of the joining strips so if you cannot use 15mm on the arms, use whatever size makes the armour comfortable.

The studio lighting plays a big part of what we see on screen. Here is a comparison of original armour next to a replica but the difference is not so great when you have both parts in your hands in daylight.

The original armour is not bright white and is the same colour as the ABS RS uses. PVC forms the same as ABS so the sharpness is the same but the PVC is more rigid in comparison. If you want screen accuracy with the metal brackets, go for ABS. If you want an idealised bright white trooper, go for PVC and use snaps and elastics because the PVC is too rigid for the brackets (in my opinion).

The size of the strips will not prevent you from achieving Centurion status. Stick with the 20mm strips if that is what you need to get your hands through the wrist opening but make sure you use the same 20mm wide strips on the biceps (or wider if necessary) for aesthetics.

The first thing you need to do is trim the parts properly. The shoulder bells will sit fine once they are trimmed and strapped and you will fit your hand through the forearm once you completely remove all trace of the return edge on the wrist. I wear a size XL glove and can slip my hands through the forearms. What I would say if you have really big hands is not to use 15mm joining strips and use 20mm instead. Trim the top joint to accept the 20mm strip then tape together and test fit. If you can get your hand through easily, reposition for a 15mm strap and see how that feels. Once happy, glue your 15mm or 20mm strips. If you do need the 20mm strips on the forearms then use 20mm for the biceps too

You need to give the Humbrol paint a good stir before using it. I only ever use Humbrol paint and never have any problems with it. I read people using two layers and it baffles me why? Once the paint has been stirred thoroughly, it is nice and thick and only one layer is needed. I have not had the privilege of using Testors paints before so I cannot give my opinion on it but I know Humbrol has worked well for me over the years. Just saying

My kids helmets are about 3/4 size and could be suitable for you? I am building a helmet now and can get some measurements done when it is finished.

I find it easier to glue the strips onto one half of the armour using bulldog clips and once cured, I tape the other half to the armour and use small magnets (9mm x 7mm) which are very powerful and do a great job. I probably have a few hundred of them but you can buy a pack and use them on one part of the armour until the glue dries and then onto the next part. Once you have finished building your armour, sell the magnets on here so someone else can use them

Using male snaps on the nylon (or ABS) tabs is much better since the back is flat compared to the domed shape of the female snap.

Love it!

Some of their TIE pilot customers have not been too happy either over on the JRS site. "I just received my completed chest box and armour from RS and have to say, I'm less than impressed by their QC. The box looks like it's been kicked around with scratches and cuts (I don't subscribe to the 'well that's like the screen used prop'). I want a perfect piece then I'll decide if it needs cuts and scratches. The rocker switches aren't even in a straight line. Main problem is the squares - in the wrong places- top row goes white, blue (from left to right) and bottom row goes grey, blue (from left to right). You can't even pop them off and reattach as the glue they've used is so strong and the plastic so thin, it will tear up the box. These guys might be Star Wars fans, but whoever assembled the box obviously didn't have a clue. OK, why not send it back? I've waited nearly 3 months to get it and the box is riveted to the front so you'd have to send the whole box/armour back. I don't want to wait another 3 months. Solution, mask off the squares and use paint to get them in the right order. My advice- if buying from RS, don't buy an assembled version- at least that way you won't end up with it wrong." And another. "Also the feel of the stuff is like the real prop stuff. It has paint and glue runs, it's very rough trimmed, it has scratches and scuffs so it's not as clean as you may know it from Laws or Moncal. So that's may nothing for guys which like glossy and shiny costume stuff." Also, their Stormtrooper assembly work is shocking from an accuracy standpoint. But that's just my opinion (and many others behind closed doors).

The drop boxes are simple. Mark 15mm down on each corner of the larger/outer half of both parts then put a ruler between the marks and draw a pencil line all the way around. Trim close to the line and then rub the cut edge of the drop box on a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface until smooth. Offer the inner half inside the outer half but put it in backwards and mark a trim line using the edge of the outer box as a guide. Trim just inside the pencil line to make sure the inner part sits nicely inside the outer part. Do not glue them together until you have fitted the elastic riveted to them and do that after you have the ammo section riveted to your canvas belt.

I can't help you with any tips to convert the armour but I can offer an ROTJ abdomen and kidney-butt plate (or any ANH and ROTJ parts you might need for the conversion).

I make all the parts for both TK and TD so if you need any extra parts, just let me know

The main belt does not need any heat bending. The curve of the abdomen is minimal compared to that of the thigh. The only thing to watch out for on the main ammo belt is not to fix it to the canvas laid out flat. This puts stress on the fixings when the belt is worn so make sure you attach the centre fixing first then wear the belt and bend the ammo belt around your waist and mark the spot of the next fixing. From experience the mark is about 5mm shorter than it would be laid out flat. This is the correct way to attach the ammo belt to the canvas

I have read that dipping parts in boiling water works but I have not tried it myself. A hair dryer will work too if you have one of those? The 2mm acrylic capped ABS is very rigid. The ammo strap will bend around the knee but not tight enough so it sits snug against your armour and pulling it tight could cause a stress fracture. You never have this problem with the 1.5mm gloss ABS because it is so flexible. Try the boiling water technique and leave it in for a shorter period of time first and the longer as needed. Good luck

You have two choices with the thigh strap - line up the boxes so they are centred or have three boxes to the inner half and two the outer half of the thigh. Whichever option you choose, trim the sides so they don't go past the back of the knee ridge. Each side will not be symmetrical so don't worry about it. You need to heat the 2mm ABS and bend the strap to shape or it will crack.

I doubt anyone would spend that much money and cast it. But you never know.....

Helmet sold for a whopping £65,000!

The top of the face place does not need to be trimmed, but you may do so if you wish. It will not interfere with the positioning of the face plate if you leave it on (as I always do).

I am familiar with Alpinestars and they are expensive. You can buy much cheaper products that will do the same job. That said, I see no reason why you could not use them since the logos will not be seen once you have your neck seal on.