troopermaster

The part of the clips that hang on the belt should be flat with just the ends slightly bent out to help them slide onto your belt. The flat length should be approximately 3" longer with the bent end no more than 1/4". The clip in the photo posted above is not the best way to bend them since the canvas belt is flat.

The original ROTJ armour did not have any strapping connecting the biceps to the shoulder bells as far as I am aware, so if you want to use any then I would go with my suggestion to keep the bells looking good. The only thing I can suggest to help prevent the thermal detonator clips from scratching the armour is to glue the soft side of Velcro of felt to the clips or maybe even wrap them in electrical/insulation tape? I am not sure if you will totally prevent scratching the armour but either one of those suggestions will definitely help.

WOW! Talk about trying to ruin me. Very poor form. For the record, after a few setbacks (including my current situation having a broken foot) I was struggling to get many orders finished and would have liked to give people their money back so I could heal. I am supposed to be resting not working. I was frustrated with my situation and felt Christine was taking the high ground when I posted the helmets for sale which was none of her business. She was overthinking things and it angered me when she filed for a refund instead of simply asking me. I issued the refund instantly and now PayPal is still trying to get the money because of her Bank claim. My PayPal account is suspended while the dispute is resolved. To make matters even worse, I got a 30 day suspension on Facebook so I cannot answer any questions or accept any further orders on there, so no chance of earing much money anytime soon. If anyone wants to take a cheap shot while I am down, now is your chance. For those of you who have paid deposits for builds or kits and have any concerns, please feel free to PM me. Thanks

Starting to look like a real Stormtrooper now! The chest will be pulled in if you use the straps between the back and chest on the lower ends of the armour. A tip if you want to have those big 80's style shoulder bells sticking out is not to strap the biceps to the bells which can pull the bells down. If possible, you can have a strap coming from your neck seal so the biceps are free from the bells. Make sure the thin strap for the bells is loose too so they just keep them from flapping. *edit: spelling*

Look closely, that is the main flap pulled over the centre pouch.

Backpack is a USGI LC-1 Medium pack.

You only need to remove the rivets on one side of the helmet. I would do it on the left hand side looking where the gap is. The ear should be fine since you are only moving the face plate forward slightly. Once you have removed the ear and the rivets, use a pencil to mark the new hole on the face plate through the existing hole on the back plate. What I usually do is drill the hole slightly behind the mark to ensure the face plate will be butt-tight against the forehead. If you find there is still a gap then you might need to trim the bump off the top of the face plate. Re-drill the ear cap holes into the face plate and fit the ears. Job done

AP, ATA and SDS are the shortest of the adult kits. Here is a photo of a movie sized TM thigh next to an SDS (SDS cast from AP/GF)

The height of the holes are drilled 18mm above the cod plate. The distance from each end will be determined when you position the belt but try and space it out equally so the holes are drilled approximately the same distance from each end.

Those are not the correct measurements for an ROTJ. Bear with me, I have a broken ankle and not able to move much at the moment, but I will get the measurements for you tomorrow

I used ABS glue on my ROTJ kit but you might be better off with white E6000. The ABS glue was made from ABS shavings and acetone which is what they used for the movie suits, but it's pretty hard core stuff so be warned if you use it.

I will see if I can get those measurements for you later today

Yes, the belt is riveted to the ab plate and the drop box is just like ANH with little to no gap between it and the ammo belt. The thickness of the drop box is approximately 10mm. For the strapping, check the link to my ROTJ build on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/1546878132196713/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1621928628024996

Guys, I am having issues with my Facebook account again so please use the forums or my email - troopermaster421@gmail.com if you want to get in touch about anything. Thanks, Paul.

The rivet goes in the middle of the belt and about 10mm from the end. ROTJ does not have plastic tabs (rivet covers) and there are only two rivets - one on each end so do not rivet the centre of the belt like ANH. The drop box elastic is connected to the rivet holding the belt on. So when you rivet the belt on, sandwich the elastic between the ABS ammo belt and your fabric belt, making sure you use a washer behind the ab plate to keep it secure. The drop box elastics are riveted on so again, use a washer on the inside of the drop inner drop box and do this before you glue the front half of the box.

Are the caps removable? You need to put the washers on the inside for the rivets holding the clips on. By the way, the pipe was cut the right length. All you had to do was file the ends then warm the end caps gently and they slide right on

The RS shins are the same for both legs, so you cannot go wrong with the assembly. Just make sure you assemble them so they open opposite to each other, meaning the left shin has the back strip glued to the left half of the shin and the right shin has the back strap glued to the right half so the openings are facing the inside of your legs instead of the outside.

It looks like your chest plate is hanging too low. Try pulling it up higher and add a strap from the back plate to the chest (under your arms) to pull the chest in like on the original armour.

200mm x 28mm if you are getting them cut.

WOW!!!

They can be trimmed down more. I think you have the face sat down low but the ears attached high which is not a great combination. The ear caps should follow the face plate more than the back plate. Trim the ears down more and see how you go. I have extra pairs if you need them.

Between 20-25mm is good Original ROTJ detonator TM ROTJ detonator

You can paint the rivets white. I cannot imagine copying the original armour will prevent you from gaining Centurion approval - especially when evidence is presented.

I keep saying the CRL's are wrong. I only care how the original LFL costumes were assembled and I advise everyone to build their kits the same. The original shoulder straps are riveted to the chest and Velcroed in the back. The rivet allows the strap to swivel so less chance of cracking.

5 is okay. The rivet goes between rib 2 and 3. Glue the loop side of Velcro inside the opposite end of the strap and the hook part to the back plate