troopermaster

They are lined up perfectly as they are.

Hi guys, Just reposting these photos of my ROTJ Stormtrooper armour since my original thread seems to have disappeared.

The decals were screen printed.

You have built the armour with the reinforcing strips inside which packs out the channel in the forearm. To build them properly without the (unnecessary, non-accurate) reinforcing strips I think you would struggle to fit a 20mm wide magnet inside a 15mm channel. This will also depend on the type of armour you have too but in my experience, the smaller, thicker magnets work well.

I think 20mm wide magnets are too wide. They will not fit inside the forearms properly since the joining strips are usually 15mm wide. I suggest these: http://www.banggood.com/20pcs-N52-Super-Strong-Round-Magnets-10mm-x-4mm-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets-p-998141.html?rmmds=category I have a few hundred of these and they work extremely well.

Sew them back on using thick 'top stitch' thread. 5 or 6 passes through each hole is best and ideally the snaps should be positioned closer to your neck rather than in the middle. RS have an unusual way of placing them in the middle of the strap instead of to the inner edge of the strap like they are on the original armour.

Five bumps on the shoulder straps is fine for shorter people - three would have been better for your height to allow them to sit further onto your back plate. I don't know if the 501st insists on making you glue the straps on at the five bump mark but I often glue them at different lengths depending on a persons height, which is only common sense really.

You have to cut your mesh ever so slightly bigger than the hole in your mic tip and gently push it in without bending the cut ends of the mesh. There is a bit of a knack to it to get them to sit in tight without using glue. I have several sets available if you need new ones.

Okay, so you have trimmed them too much by the sound of it. The RS shins are identical left and right and the backs do not line up perfectly due to them being made up of outer parts only. This is quite normal with the original armour. Do not worry too much about the backs not lining up. You can trim out the tops behind the knee into a 'V' shape to take your eye off the mismatch or leave them as is - either is good in my opinion.

What is the problem with the shins? What are you using to keep them closed - hooks or Velcro?

Yes it is. The ROTJ armour was made more simple compared to the complex ANH armour. Overlap joints, moulded ab buttons, straps glued, belt riveted, knees riveted, shoulder straps riveted - everything is much easier to assemble on the ROTJ.

Rivets on the front and Velcro on the back.

Totally agree with you, August. Anything displayed nowadays does not automatically mean that's how it originally looked 30 odd years ago. Having the snap on the inside of the shoulder strap will most likely be for ease of packing or damage limitation for display purposes only.

£15 for everything shipped if you're still looking?

Hi Pawel, How many sheets are you looking for? I might be able to help you out as I use 2mm acrylic capped ABS and have plenty in stock. Cheers, Paul.

Go with whatever size you need. When I build armour for people with your size calves I will use a 25mm or 30mm wide strip on the front and whatever size necessary on the back. The back strips usually end up being a wedge shape and the same will apply to the thighs. Keeping the thigh and calf front strips the same width add uniformity and will give you a bit of extra room needed.

The original part used for the detail on the detonator panel was a plastic terminal barrier, so it's highly likely the plastic fins deformed during the vacuum forming process. Another possibility is they had more than one mould. As a point of interest, I offer both versions

Swap the bells over when taking front photos so the decal is not seen. It will only take a minute and it should keep the staff happy. I find it quite disappointing that the staff still cannot overlook the decal that ALL UKG members must wear as part of the Garrison.

You made the common mistake of attaching the ammo belt to the canvas belt laid out flat. This alters the distance between the snaps when you try to attach the belt to the abdomen because the ABS restricts movement of the canvas. *Tip* Fix the centre rivet of the ammo belt to your canvas belt and fasten the belt around your waist. Mark the end rivet hole on your canvas belt using a pencil, remove the belt, punch the hole in the canvas and rivet the ammo belt. Do the same for the opposite end. When you lay the belt out flay, the ammo section will look like a 'M' having gaps between the rivet fixings. This is totally normal and how the original belts were made. Assemble your belts like this (everyone) and the days of your belt popping off are long gone **edit** This is assuming you have fixed your snaps to the canvas belt prior to attaching the ammo belt. You must do this before you attach the ABS belt as I have described

Great photos! Nice to see you in armour again

I would go with #14 to be safe. The guys who approve these costumes are pretty anal about every minute detail these days.

Not at all. You can use any glue you like to assemble the armour. It's what it looks like from the outside that counts - not from the inside.

You want some wiggle room in the thighs. They should be able to slide up and down your legs freely as you walk. Taking them apart would be a lot of work so as already suggested, some slight padding should help.

Yes they are. And did you know I supplied several missing parts of the costume and Rob sculpted some too? So not completely original screen accurate.

No they don't. They use superglue. The screen used suits used ABS paste.