Jump to content

troopermaster

Member
  • Posts

    3,638
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Everything posted by troopermaster

  1. On a screen accurate suit, the only velcro would be on the back of the canvas belt E6000 is best adhesive to use.....period!
  2. All I can do is echo what everyone else has already said. Fantastic work Pablo, simply AWESOME! Great job mate
  3. Wow, I just noticed the black middle tooth! It may just be the light or something....best watch the scene frame by frame again to check Looking at the second picture you posted Pablo, you can actually see some white gaffer tape on the shoulder bell where it covers the squib before he gets shot. I'm loving the rubber thighs BTW. These ANH costumes are simply fantastic. I love how they look thrown together, all rugged and scuffed up....gorgeous
  4. Great screen caps Pablo! I have often wondered about these thighs. I would have to agree that they are made from a different material than the rest of the armour, not sure if it is latex or not, could well be though? The same wobbly thighs can be seen near the end of ESB when one trooper is shooting at the Millenium Falcon as it takes off from Bespin. The trooper is the same guy in both scenes, as well as the same one who falls from the bridge when shot by Luke, which I believe is stunt man Peter Diamond. You can tell this by the way the helmet is assembled (face plate lop sided and frown has three teeth cut out) and the fact that one shoulder bell looks padded (for squibs). I remember reading somewhere that his suit (maybe all stunt performers too) were assembled differently than regular sets, plus trimmed differently too.
  5. Stefan, MFX used to make his kits from 3mm HIPS. I am not sure what he uses these days as it has been quite some time since I spoke to Guidon. What I do know is that he did not have an original tour suit. The armour he made was recast from either a CO or TE since it had the exact same duplicate parts as well as other tells. As for this NGB, I would guess it is the work of Marcus and if it is, it's a recast of a CAP.
  6. Yeah it would be really cool to do a mini sandtrooper. I have an original 1970's Hallman chest protector that I will scale down to make the pauldron Plus, I already have the DLT-19 and I'm sure I could knock up some mini Stolla wiens
  7. I appreciate all the kind words everyone If I have a quid for everytime I heard the phrase "Aren't you a little short for a stormtrooper?"....I would be a very rich man The boy grows fast and is on his third or fourth version of the suit already. Each time I make him a suit it is bigger/longer and more accurate. I already have plans to make some ESB hand plates and am considering making a sandtrooper back pack and armour, maybe even a hero helmet too
  8. A fabulous collection of helmets Mark, I'm envious The DL face is extremely close to the TE hero, almost an exact duplicate from what I can see. Do they match up size wise?
  9. Another incredible build Pete! You got talent mate
  10. Fantastic job on the assembly Pablo! I'm loving the helmet. It is hardest part of the assembly in my opinion, but you have done an outstanding job building it up mate Looking forward to seeing you suited up
  11. Thanks for those photos Terrell I can clearly see that one side of the channel has been trimmed off from the 'S' profile trim. Why they trimmed it makes no sence really?
  12. When I glue parts together using E6000, I run a thin bead of glue towards the edge of the armour so that when I offer up the joining strip, the glue can spread without coming out and bing seen. If it does come, which it sometimes does, wait until it dries and run a razor blade along the edge of the joining strip and pull off the offending glue. You can do the same on the inside to make sure the opposite half of the armour butts up correctly. I've read that some people run a bead of glue on their armour and spread it out first, so that they don't get any runs. Don't worry about any slight gaps. I think filling them with silicone is a bit over the top in my opinion. You don't need to use a lot of E6000 to get a good bond, it's a great adhesive and is available in white too
  13. Terrell, Do you have any photos of the trim with the lip removed because it just looks like bog standard square 'S' profile trim to me? If you look at this photo below, the old spec SWR150 is close to what was used originally and the larger channel is fitted to the helmet and the thinner channel would be inside.
  14. Nice work Armando! I've been asked whether the trim on the ESB neck is the same as the brow, it's not. I know it looks like 'U' channel, but if you look closely where the ear caps touch the trim, you can see that it is actually 'S' channel, the same as all the other helmets made. I have not yet seen any original trooper helmet that uses brow trim on the neck. Just thought I'd point this out as there seems to be some confusion about the trims. Photos courtesy of Jez.
  15. It's you That is a hero helmet, not a regular stormtrooper helmet. I believe the MR helmet was scanned from that actual helmet in the link, but it only used one half and mirrored the opposite so the MR would be symmetrical.
  16. I think the helmet you are refering to was a hero used in ESB. There are not many reference photos as far as I know, so I would assume that it used hero ear caps, 3 teeth each side, flat green lens and regular ESB decals and paint work.
  17. Do not trim it where you have marked. All you need to do is trim it to the where the flat edge starts, not over it. Make your joining strip angled to match the armour.
  18. Well done Billy
  19. Use E6000 for the adhesive, it really is good stuff. Don't worry about the 24 hour curing time, it's worth the wait Looks like your outer biceps are upside down so you might want to spin them around. Pull up your thighs too. Use a thin belt inside your armour and use 2" wide black elastic suspenders with a snap on each end. Then glue x2 snaps onto a plastic tab and glue that insde the top of the thighs to allow for some slight adjustment. Make sure your forearms are strapped to your biceps to keep them in place. Use snaps glued onto tabs and black elastic, works a treat. If you have the shoulder bells, biceps and forearms all strappped together, you can slip the full arm on in one go and connect the top strap using a snap on the strap 'under' the plastic shoulder strap that is connected to your chest and back. Do all the trimming as suggested by Nate and your kit will and feel much better.
  20. Couldn't you just move the whole plastic section 1/2" to one side and make all new holes? That's assuming the last old hole will be covered with the plastic section. Any movement of the overlapping velcro section would not really be noticed and the 02 canister will cover it anyway.
  21. Best to mark your holes for the snaps while wearing your canvas belt on your armour and placing the plastic ammo belt on top. You'll find that the holes are a shorter distance apart than when laying flat. My advice is to attach the ammo belt middle snap to the middle snap on your canvas while wearing it and then mark where you want the snaps on the canvas.
  22. Look at the screen used armour Gary. You can try timming the backs in a kind of triangle shape tapering to the middle and see how that goes. I'm guessing you'll have to do both the thighs and the shins, but just try doing thighs first and then the shins to see how they feel. If that doesn't feel much better, trim out the whole of the raised section. Make sure the ends where you cut are not squared off but angled, it will look better.
  23. I use Dylon white fabric paint--------
×
×
  • Create New...