troopermaster

Your bracket placements are fine. Attaching them to a return edge is ideal but since you barely have any on your WTF armour, attaching them to the face of your armour is your only option. Paint the screw heads white and you're good to go

You can achieve the same look as the original holster fixings by using rivets to hold the snaps to the inside of the belt. I have done this before with no problems. I use 4mm rivets directly though the canvas and male part of the snap. Just make sure the rivet length is not too long as it will prevent the female part of the snaps on the holster from snapping closed.

I added some weathering to my armour recently. I think it looks pretty good

Before you cut anything, try walking around with just the leg armour on and see how it feels. You can trim out the backs of the knees to help with mobility and also trim away a small amount from the ankles to lower the shins. Your torso also needs some attention. The good thing about ROTJ armour is the white edging trim hides any trimming, unlike ANH and ESB that has return edges. You can trim the neck line deeper on your chest plate to bring it up more and trim off an inch or so from the top of your kidney plate and maybe 1/2" off the bottom of your back plate. Test fit the torso on it's own until it feels and look right in regards to your body size. Do the same with the legs wearing them without the torso and then test fit wearing everything to see how it feels.

Not many people need to trim the length off any of the parts, especially at 5'8" which is a good height for the original armour. Take a punt. Go for it

Mine are vacuum formed into a cavity mould so the bubble never touches anything, keeping vision as clear as possible. Use them in your ANH hero, TIE and AT-AT helmets in one-piece or trim them and glue in separately in your ROTJ helmet.

Get the owner to measure the circumference of his arms and legs to see if they are close to your measurements. The torso and helmet will be fine. It's the limbs that could be a problem if they are trimmed down too much and too tight on you. This would be a lot of work to try and extend them if that's the case.

You can trim the ears more. Don't be afraid of taking too much off. The original ears are thin. Here is one I built to show you they can be trimmed more.

My bubble lenses.

The cod rivet is less than 1/2" from the edge. No wonder I am seeing all these badly placed rivets with advice like this from Tony.

None of the EIB or Centurion requirements are accurate. I think it's better to point people in the right direction rather than away from it.

This is just a heads up as I see just about every member of the FISD putting the screws in the wrong place. The first screw should be much closer to the end of the strip but your second screw is perfect.

You definitely do not want to trim anything off the top of your outer forearm! I'm guessing the problem is when you bend your arm, the forearm is digging into your wrist? You can trim the inner elbow curve deeper and then trim the wrists. It doesn't matter if you have gaps at your wrists when your arms are by your side - that is completely normal. The gaps soon disappear once you carry your blaster.

ROTJ armour has the hand plates attached to the forearm and the biceps are not connected to the shoulder bells.

Coming along nicely

3 rivets for the belt, 2 rivets for the drop boxes and 2 for the thigh ammo pack

You might want to swap your rubber gloves for black Lycra gloves that were used on the ESB troopers.

Ears are fine and there is no need to countersink the screws in the ear caps. Brow gap is bad. You want the brow to be tight against the forehead of the face plate. This will mean repositioning the face plate and re-drilling the ear caps, but the old holes will not be seen so no problem

Drill the holes in the ends of the ammo belt 10mm from the edge.

Remember to attach the ammo belt to your canvas belt using the middle rivet first, then attach it to your abdomen and mark out the end rivets to prevent popping the rivets

The brow is fine. Just make sure you cut the ends square and not on an angle to follow the trapezoids.

It was intentional but most likely done by the actor to stop the arms from sliding off. I have tried wearing armour without the arms connected to anything and it's not very comfortable. Who knows if more did it? I have always thought it odd that the arms were never connected to anything.

Bicep tape. One strip of tape over the bicep strap and another piece of tape across the first piece securing it to the bicep.

That is fine if you don't connect your biceps to your bells since the bells will just hang freely. In my build on FB you will see that I use tape as a spacer. I know from experience that using the 25mm wide tape gives me the right amount of strap protruding from the bell. See how it goes. It's not a big deal if you have to move the strap later When it comes to strapping your biceps to your bells, you have two screen accurate options: 1) White tape over the bicep strap on your bells directly to your inner bicep. 2) Form a bicep hook. Either one is fine in my book but I would imagine a hook set up might be a better option for a hero build. Better double check with the staff to see if screen accuracy is allowed

I can see the straps on the top of the bells are too long and you will end up with big gaps between the bells and chest plate. I forgot to mention it in my build but what you need to do is snap the white elastic shoulder straps to the bell straps and then place the bell straps inside the bells, making sure the white strap touches the bell. I like to allow for a bit of tension so when you have the black straps inside the bell, mark where the strap ends but add 5mm or so. I hope that makes sense