ABS80

I can send you a new set no problem Mark (AP)

You forgot to mention AP if you respect the alphabetical order I should be listed first Im assembling 5 for customers as we speak Mark (AP)

Here are some Ab button plates using the AP decals provided in kit, if applied properly people will never guess they are decals and will last much longer than paint which easily scratches off.

yes but those still look too small, not all were painted similar as long a you stay within the bump size your ok, your refference photos is one of the smaller ones but in general they are bigger

too small should be the size of decal provided

thanks for the nice words! Mark (AP)

At a quick glance, your belt looks off centered, the left hand side of ab plate there should be 6 split rivets and on the right top corner of Ab plate a snap button, you put inner snap buttons on both sides though its functional but not accurate, shoulder bells too big, also no return edge on forearms and biceps should be visible anywhere and the shoulder straps are glued a tad to high they should sit a bit lower on chest plate, I'm sure other stuff will be mentioned once you provide more pics.

Halloween rush it that time of year were I get pretty busy! Lately most of my customers opt for the fully built ready to wear out of box, never built so many in a small time frame! I prefer to build 3-4 at same time which speeds up process. Mark (AP)

Thats a very OLD FX which unfortunately is not 501st approvable, also the grey regtangle caps are seperate pieces as opposed to molded on ears like movie originals. Mark (AP)

should leave a few mm of edge on each side none on front of big tab and rear big tab should be completely trimmed off, the movie original had no big tab on the rear. Mark (AP)

You can trim the lower rear of thighs , you don't have to worry to fill gap, many original suits had trimmed lower thighs, I sent you photos by PM https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/5871-backs-of-legs/ Mark (AP)

I use Testors 1138 its a close match to decals color, but a gloss coat will work perfect!

Nice job!! The grey shouldn't be dull, just add a coat of semi gloss over it for a semi gloss finish, also double check frown you have to extend paint beyond last untrimmed tooth on each side, check movie helmet!

Eye sockets too small you need to remove more material, ears too wide, holes on frown too small, your forearms and biceps too big, your belt rivet cover caps are too big, too much return edge on sides of chest plate ect... Mark

its ok for the screws, not all movie helmet the screws lined up, I would just remove the last blue stripe thats under ears no two helmet had the same amount of blue stripes, actually many helmet had different amount of stripes for each side and finally the grey frown you need to paint grey after the last hole which is not drilled out, check my avatar photo.

I use windex to clean helmet to remove any dust/ particles that can be stuck under decals.

Facing the face plate from the outside, the left side decal on photo goes left, basically the decals are positioned properly on the sheet Also make sure to use the water/soap technique to apply the grey decals to avoid any air bubbles, just put a very tiny drop of dish washing soap in a bowl of water, wet surface of helmet I actually dip decals in the water apply on helmet then gently with your finger squeegee out water from center to extremities. For the round circles for the AB buttons apply with pressing down heat up with blow dryer then press down, they will perfectly comform to bump will look like paint.

Go ABS much more durable and less prove to crack in time, the reason they use ABS in automotive parts

I get you 100% but I didn't say its cheap, it just feels cheap/fragile when people handle it first hand. Mark (AP)

Like Paul clearly stated the original movie armors were very thin so more flexible as you can see from Han's chest plate, you will also notice Han's thigh pieces bend quite a bit as he jump into the trash compactor, a 2mm+ plastic doesn't have any give and the armor would just cut into your skin, way too rigid for stunt work. I use .80 gauge which is thicker than original because IMHO its the best of both worlds, you get durability and real armor feel without loosing too much details, 1mm is very thin and gets even thinner in many spots when thermoforming so it has a very cheap/fragile feel to it, when people pay that much money for a costume they expect quality and a 1mm though its movie accurate and pulls are super sharp it simply looks too flimsy for a armor. BTW Paul your more in a lying down position and to boot on a soft couch so the armor doesn't get the same stress Mark (AP)

Many of the movie stunt helmets left ear sits lower creating same gap on top near rubber trim, this is mainly because of the assymetries of the molds, the right and left ear are completely different in shape so is the helmet. Check www.starwarshelmets.com you can see many stunt helmets with gap in the same exact spot

Shoulder bells look huge! so are the biceps, you can also reduce return edge on sides of back plate

Glued on the front, on the back they are flaoting but you can use velcro so they stay in place.

I use a small exacto knife the one with pointy blade and carefully square them off including the smallest ones, or you can use a small tiny hobby files Mark (A)

Great job Congratulations!!! To be more movie accurate trim off the big rear shoulder strap tabs. Mark (AP)