Sithtrooper02

Name : Francois Pelletier TK20236 Forum name: Sithtrooper02 Garrison : Forteresse Imperiale Garison Social Media consent (photos) : YES ***This is the costume that was used to create the Imperial Armored Commando CRL Armor : 3D printed/finished by me Helmet : 3D printed/finished by me Blaster : 3D printed/finished and designed by me Height : 5’7’’ Weight : 165lbs Boots : Crowprops Imperial Commando boots Canvas Belt : designed and Fabricated by Veronique Jomphe Gloves : Crowprops Imperial commando leather gloves Suit : Keeptrooping suit modified to comply with CRL and added attachment points for the armor Link to approved armor : https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=39822&costumeID=664 The pictures (most of them are already on the CRL reference images): Action pose JETPACK OPTIONAL Level three certification : The top grill has functional red lighting. Left gauntlet OPTIONAL Level three certification : The two red colored square shapes are illuminated. Right Gauntlet OPTIONAL Level three certification : The two red colored shapes are illuminated red. Glove OPTIONAL Level three certification : Gloves are made of leather. COMMENT : Leather gloves provided by Crowprops Chest OPTIONAL Level three certification : The red rectangular shape under the ranking box is illuminated red (to be added to CRL ) for the lights in dimmer surroundings, the only ones I got right now are these two from my build thread, if additional are required, I will take more for each part when I’m back home in about a month. It is difficult to render correctly the nice red looking of LED lights, needs a SLR. Way better in real ( there is no orange like color, as it is a pure red LED with tinted red plexi to smooth the LED emission ) thanks

François Pelletier 20236 letter Mario Congrats! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/20236-eib.png

Thank you (to you and the FISD staff) for all the time you took to go thoroughly through my armor and the CRL (and found some small things to fix in the description)! I will apply shortly for the centurion level!🫡 cheers, François

Ok, perfect, this was a very quick fix luckily!

Done, thanks!

Apologies, I'm not sure what you mean by 'could you add to the bellow line to your application'? Do you mean answering the Social Media Consent (photo) and adding it to the main application? If so I just did it.

MilleniumMaker is now offering the followings: Armor parts (WIP to complete them all) used in CRL build: - AB mold https://millenniummaker.etsy.com/listing/1765400582 - One piece shins https://millenniummaker.etsy.com/listing/1704251352 - Jetpack https://millenniummaker.etsy.com/listing/1768414266

Updated in main post, thanks

Name : Francois Pelletier TK20236 Forum name: Sithtrooper02 Garrison : Forteresse Imperiale Garison Social Media consent (photos) : YES ***This is the costume that was used to create the Imperial Armored Commando CRL Armor : 3D printed/finished by me - see the build thread in the Imperial Armored Commando Helmet : 3D printed/finished by me Blaster : Designed and 3D printed/finished by me Height : 5’7’’ Weight : 165lbs Boots : Crowprops Imperial Commando boots Canvas Belt : designed and Fabricated by Veronique Jomphe Gloves : Crowprops Imperial commando leather gloves Suit : Keeptrooping suit modified to comply with CRL and added attachment points for the armor Link to approved armor : https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=39822&costumeID=664 The pictures (most of them are already on the CRL reference images): Action pose Helmet OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Protruding ear section is visibly a separate piece. Clip greeblies and strap are visibly separate pieces. Aerators and diamond greeblie are visibly separate pieces. The collar has vent with oblong holes on the rear section. Flight Suit OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Flight Suit is one piece construction. Long sleeves do not have horizontal quilted ribs on the inside of the arm between the short sleeves and the gauntlets. Chest armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The 4 sections and shoulder box are visibly separate parts. The ranking box components have thickness and are visibly separate parts. The raised box over the right shoulder is visibly a separate part and has two semi-circular recessed lines on the outer side and a recess on the inner side. The raised box grid has exactly 5 vertical rectangular grey shapes and is visibly a separate part. Back OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The jet pack has 3 attachment points that are visibly separate parts and have a metallic finish. The two upper attachment points are circular T-shaped and anchored to the back plate with a circular plate. The lower attachment point to the jet pack is cylindrical with a taper at the tip and is anchored to the back plate with a rectangular plate. Jetpack : OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): All grey and black components are visibly separate parts. The bottom grill is visibly a separate part. There are 5 small black vertical cylinders attached atop of the large grey box. The vertical cylinders ends have a 90° bend inward at the bottom and the top. They are not all equal in length at the top, as the middle cylinders are longer than the outer cylinders. Abdomen section OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Only one seam is present on the right side of the wearer’s side. The 4 straps are all identical in width and geometry There is the appearance of a clip on the straps approximately at the middle of the abdomen armor. Belt OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The push release button of the female buckle is visibly a separate component. There is a rectangular recessed line on the metal portion of the male buckle. The metal portion of the male buckle is followed by a black section entering the female buckle. Shins OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shin is a single piece construction with a seam only present at the rear which overlaps to the outside. The rear spat box has a recessed edge on the outside creating a smaller shape. The spat overlaps the boot with minimal gap. See main pictures for overlaps Boots OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are 3 stitched lines that run across the instep. The instep is made of thick material with the 3 stitched lines creating raised sections. Standard FOTK boots are not acceptable.

Hi, I would like to have full access to detachment TK-20236 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=39822 thanks!

It was! But for me, that's the fun part! I didn't expect at first having to remodel/ adjust almost every parts to match screen reference. The existing models looked great from far away...! It can be indeed a lot of work, especially when you dive into it for the first time doing a 3D printed suit, learning to 3D print, scaling the armor, finishing the print to smooth finish and holding your breath when doing the final gloss finish But there's a lot of good threads/ tutorials on how to do these steps. And I will be available for those who wants specifics on the armor build. I hope that in the near future, there will be vendors that supply the parts (which complies with CRL) on a commercial basis to ease the work. Especially for the flexible abs, which would be nice out off an industrial mold.

On the Chest plate, the red light is missing, from the draft : OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The red light is functional under the ranking box

Sure, PM me for more info. we are rushing to get all the parts on Esty with CRL release. You can find the rifle and shin already. For now, what I’ll do is place all modified parts required (the ones I used ) and designed for 501st approval. These will be compatible with Big Fred’s basic armor. None of the current armor vendor can be approved without a lot of modifications and Big Fred was the closest I could find to start from. we will have the full armor package available sometime soon. MillenniumMaker On Etsy

I confirm, i wrote the text based of course on the reference pictures, but I checked that all costume parts pictures I took are matching exactly the text I submitted. I could easily provide additional pictures if needed for clarity.

To follow up on the above modification proposal , since the 3D printing is going to be used for the armor, I would suggest that the following general construction note be added similar to other detachments CRL : - 3D printed armor must be finished without any visible print lines for the flight suit long sleeve single sided exterior stitching proposal, I would propose to move this requirement to level 2, as it is not an obvious detail and even on reference pictures it is subtile . Some suits made with stretch material even seem not to have any stitch

Here are some pictures on the suit with lights on , taken on a mostly cloudy day (not much reflectivity showing of the gloss white). Thought I would add some backgrounds

Hi, Small correction proposed to the first draft, Looking closely at the greaves, the level 2 should read 'The greave is a single piece construction with a seam only present at the rear which overlaps to the OUTSIDE' As per reference pictures below:

Hi, can you allow me 501st access? Thanks https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=39822 francois

Other Armor parts I did a first pass at how I made the rest of the armor below (high definition pictures of each part are in the first post of the build thread). I designed/built them to be as screen accurate as possible to the best of my knowledge and easy to troop with. Other than printing, coloring and finish already described, I will try to list the specifics of each part. I will be making all the parts from my own creation available eventually on Etsy, but in the meantime, if you need them, just PM me. Clear coats For the clear coat, I used the Glamor 2K for the white and Rustoleum satin for all other colors. N.B. screen accuracy can’t tell the exact finish, but obviously the white is either semi-gloss or gloss as it has specular reflections. The other colors are visibly lower reflectivity as they do not have specular reflection, but diffuse ones, so some kind of satin finish. Fasteners disclaimer 😊 As a disclaimer, I don't like velcros! they are a quick fix though. I started with those on this armor for several reasons: initial adjustment, fitting for screen accuracy, difficulty to attach fasterners on soft armor. My 2 cents on this: - The preference should always be snap buttons and straps, but sometimes they lack the rigidity to maintain uniform flexible joints between attached armor parts (like chest and back armor for example). - Velcros keep the suit and armor pieces in close contact on the periphery of the armor, so this can be required for screen accuracy (like in this case for belt, knee, thigh, bicep). I will add snap button to the velcros for sturdy attachment on knee plates, holsters thigh plates once I have the final fitting. - When possible, try to stich the velcros instead of gluing (never glue velcros on fabrics, it will fail). If using the adhesive backed velcros, only rely on high quality brand (3M or Velcro), not cheap stuff on Amazon. Otherwise, you’re way better off using plain Velcro that you will secure with E6000 or Silicone adhesive (for gluing to silicone parts or very flexible parts) Helmet I printed and built all the parts separate for accuracy and ease of finishing. A lot of different colors and finish, so a lot of masking…! Some tricks for clean paint lines is to use good quality masking tape. I would recommend Frog tape, you won’t get overspill if applied correctly (you can find it on Amazon, use narrow one or cut it) The lens is a cut faceshield from amazon (see picture below) that a lot of people are using for their helmets (Hobart 770580 Face Shield replacement lens shaded). Pretty cheap and you can do multiple helmets with one shield. I secure it with duct tape so if it scratches it can be replaced and it’s very sturdy. Glue is not an option for this lens as there is not large overlaps with the helmet body. For padding, I used tactical helmet padding you can find on Amazon for less that 15$. This helmet is designed to be tightly fitted to your head, so not a lot of room for padding. You WILL need fans in this helmet, as the seal is almost making it airtight 😊, no way to wear without those. No wonder why you see the guys without their helmet while waiting for shooting… You will need low profile fans and very small battery pack. I suggest you 3D print a couple of fans form factors before purchasing and try to fit them first. Standard Stormtrooper fan kit or voice changing kit WILL MOST LIKELY NOT fit in this helmet if you maintain the proportional ratio of the helmet to screen reference (i.e. you should check carefully the space left before ordering standard kits). I will include a picture once all the pieces are in place, still WIP Chest armor The chest armor needed a good engineering to be wearable and screen accuracy. First, the overlap between the bottom and top portion that needs to be separate parts for screen accuracy, required clamps so that both parts are rigidly attached while still showing that they are two separate parts. I wouldn’t count of glue to secure these critical parts together as the gluing surface is not very large vs the length of the parts. If not using this design, I recommend you secure the two parts with additional brackets/ reinforcements. I drawn also the ranking box to have the right size of button and thickness per screen reference. I suggest you print the parts individually and scale them to have better screen accuracy and ease of painting. I glued the chest armor large parts together with E6000, just like all the small parts. I like E6000, as it remains flexible, but there are for sure other options (everyone has his own preference for gluing PLA/PETG). I attached the chest armor to back armor with large black heavy duty 2in velcros on the shoulder (I like the ‘VELCRO Brand Extreme Outdoor Mounting Tape’ from Amazon). this is what holds the back +jetpack so it needs to be strong, while keeping joints together closely). The sides can be secured with lighter velcros. You may need to add some plastic guides to prevent the sides from offsetting laterally while moving around. I forgot to add those on mine, but may add it to the model later. Grey is Rustoleum grey primer. The red is airbrush Vallejo game color 72.012 Lighting of the chest is discussed in another post in this thread Below are the two pieces from internal side showing the attachment clamps prior to assembly Back armor I designed the jetpack anchors to be very strong and 3D printed, but fully compatible with Big Fred’s original design along with mine for best compatibility (as described in jetpack section). I added M4 threaded inserts in the back armor bottom anchor (you can see them in the picture below). For the upper T-shape Anchor, I used same principle as JJ industries and have an independent plate that I 3D printed and added M2.5 Threaded inserts. (you can see those in the picture below). To attach to chest armor, I used heavy duty black velcros for the shoulder and lighter white velcros for the sides. Bicep boxes I ended up redoing the bicep box from Big Fred’s as other designs I tried where not accurate enough. I secured them to the suit with velcros doing the full size of the rear notched portion to end up with the same fit as the screen reference. Grey is Rustoleum grey primer. The red is airbrush Vallejo game color 72.012 Gauntlets Both Gauntlets needed corrections vs existing models as well to be perfectly screen accurate/trooping (IMHO). - Scaling of the gauntlets to have the right proportion to screen accuracy - Draw all boxes so that they are thick (they protrude quite a lot on screen reference) - Adding detailed whipcord and dart launcher - Adding internal guides to clamp the gauntlet with ease and no visible attachments (you really DON’T want to put velcros there as you need a minimal and uniform joint). Guide pins are 4mm dowels you can buy on Amazon (left overs from my Pit Droid antennas). - Printed all parts separately for screen accuracy https://a.co/d/a3muoaW Painting for metallic parts is airbrush Vallejo 77.701 aluminum. Medium grey is Rustoleum grey primer. For the red squares/rectangles, I used 3mm dark red transparent plexiglass on amazon. I cut them with a Dremel saw and polished the sides. At 3mm it protrudes enough to be screen accurate. https://a.co/d/7DojMLk Lighting of the gauntlets are discussed in another post in this build thread. Below are pictures of the internal of the gauntlets. Belt I tried to scale the size and features of the belt strap against references. My best estimate is that it is approx. 2in wide. The material is some sort of cotton with quilted horizontal ribs (3 even large in the center and 2 small on each top and bottom edge). For that, my girlfriend used simple cotton from the local fabric store with the closest white matching and some very light filler in between layers. Once sewed, you end up with a study belt ( I was surprised how nice this end up fairly straight forward). Below if a picture of the filling material used in the belt, pretty cheap at the fabric store. For the belt boxes, I have drawn them , as the original ones were not accurate enough. - redrawn the circular boxes to have the proper angled fin and proportions - Modified all the boxes and clips to have proper scale and still maintain the 2in wide belt. places 3 holes at the rear of the boxes to secure properly the boxes onto the belt with set screws. - Created belt clips that have 20mmx3mm magnets holes to keep them secure. I used M5x8mm set screws to secure the belt boxes. You can find them at reasonable pricing at any store. In the US, the equivalent would be 10-32 setscrews. I added white velcros at the rear of the boxes to secure them against the abdomen armor. I painted the male front clip with 3 colors for screen accuracy (one can see on reference pictures that the belt male clip has a metallic finish connecting part that is followed by a black section). For these two sections, I used Vallejo Aluminum 77.701 and Rustoleum Matte black, followed by satin finish Rustoleum clear coat. Holster I have been asked how I did the holster myself in more details. As I am not a skill leather craft artist, here is how I did it for my holster: Main body - Using a hard 3D printed shell for the pistol holster frame (available on my Etsy MillenniumMaker Etsy Link) - Wrapping of a thin 1mm layer of leather ( faux leather ) over the hard frame and adjusting it with a razor blade - Using spray adhesive over the hard frame and applying the cut thin leather on it - Inserting a 20x2mm magnet on the internal of the hard frame to clamp the pistol retaining loop and glue with E6000 Main strap design - Using thick faux leather of 3mm and cut using the template (now available on my Etsy) to attach to the first right side box at the front and at the last rectangular box at the rear. - The template here may need to be adjusted in height/width depending on trooper size - The main strap extend to the full size of the holster main body and is glued to it - There are two holes on the leather to insert 2 2x20mm magnet. These are to be used in combination with magnets in the right thigh plate to maintain while moving around, the holster in place (per screen reference) - High strength Velcro was used to attach the strap. Shap button would work as well. Pistol retaining loop - Using the same thick leather as the main strap, a loop is glued onto the interior of the hard main body at an angle with E6000 glue - A snap button top was attached to the tip of the loop. At the back, an 2x10mm magnet is glued to the snap button with E6000 glue Material used: 2x20mm magnet : https://a.co/d/igoagHk 2x10mm magnet : https://a.co/d/3oWnnrz Velcro : https://a.co/d/2DlE0fs 1mm faux leather and 3mm faux leather : local fabric store. Amazon has those material in stock as well, but more expensive Cod I again created a cod to suit screen accuracy. The cod is secured under the abdomen armor section with Velcro band so that it’s flexible and can move back and forth but not sideways. Knee plates No change to existing vendor, except scaling. Secured to suit with velcros on the whole back face so that there is no gap visible while moving around. Will be making the 3D model myself in near future. Thigh plates No change to existing vendor, except scaling. Secured to suit with velcros on the whole back face so that there is no gap visible while moving around. Will be making the 3D model myself in near future. Shins & spat Both vendors I purhased have a two-piece split design and were not fully screen accurate. Having had a split design on my current Sith Trooper, it’s a NIGHTMARE to put together and very difficult to have them stay perfectly closed with just velcros. So, I decided to design a single piece flexible 3D print (you can print it with any rigid plastic, but by design it is flexible). I designed them with the opening at the rear along the internal side of the flat portion as per screen reference. It opens up just like molded ABS would do, it clips and stay closed with magnets. I have placed them on Etsy if you want to have more details and a small video on how flexible it is: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1704251352/imperial-armored-commando-shin-files?click_key=98d055ce0aceca6cb2e49b78066827e614e8b8e8%3A1704251352&click_sum=37b14591&external=1&rec_type=ss&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-2 Blaster Pistol I used Big Fred’s pistol as is, no mods required. I painted according to what is available on the screen reference. The painting on the blaster pistol (and for the blaster rifle) is as follow: - Standard finishing (200grit sanding/bondo+acetone/400grit sanding/filler primer/ 400-1000grit sanding) until very smooth. Metallic surfaces need 1000grit finish before appliyingpaint and graphite. - Rustoleum black spray paint for hard base color coat (matte / semi-gloss, doesn’t matter). Thin film just to evenly color before mettalic finish. Let dry overnight**. - **For fully exposed metallic parts, I applied graphite powder while the black rustoleum paint was just an hour dry so that it sticks into the paint. - Vallejo Dark aluminum 77.703 airbrush all over the pistol, except for parts that are already graphite coated. Let dry for an hour at least. - Vallejo black 71.057, thinnest coat possible, just to hide the aluminum paint. When the paint dries and just stops being shinny, you can rub it with your finger to expose some of the aluminum underneath. I makes the easiest weathering 😊 Blaster Rifle I have a post in the weapon’s thread section on this rifle. There was no existing model, So I did it to be as screen accurate as possible. The gun is a mix of E-11 (scope, parts of the receiver, folded stock) and some other mixed parts (the ejector is not the E-11). It has a modern M4 butt stock on top of it! I will update the design when more info becomes available. I wanted it to be trooping grade, so there is a metal rod going through it. You can find it on Esty with more info as well (3D model or printed if you don’t have a printer). Finishing and weathering is identical to the blaster pistol described above. https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1667406690/imperial-commando-rifle-blaster-stl?click_key=25ecdbab2cfbfaa3d409f4d598185ec222a74f17%3A1667406690&click_sum=885df68a&external=1&rec_type=ss&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-1

Thanks for the feedback, I will add more color/ schematics to the post above for newbies in electronics. This picture was just to show the quick test I made to verify the circuit as described ( final circuit doesn’t look like this, I will remove and place a schematic instead). There is/needs to be a current limiting resistor in the circuit just after the batteries, as I mentioned. There should never be a short directly if there is a bad contact, as it always should be with diodes. The aluminum sheet is there for a good reason, LEDs need to have a heatsink in confined spaces like this. Especially thru for the large array on the chest plate, otherwise the heat generated could locally melt the plastic so just plastic backing directly on LED probably won't do if you want to have the proper lighting level. Alternate is to have a powerboard with heavy copper layers and large ground planes. One should also place an isolating tape between conductor and ground i.e. to isolate the leads from the aluminum. I also potted the leads in silicone to make sure they don’t short while moving around. I will add schematics to clarify

Lighting of the Armor There are 4 parts that need lighting to be screen accurate: - The jetpack grill - The two gauntlets (2x red lights) - The chest armor (1 red light on right side) The jetpack grill was straight forward as I already had done the red transparent part (see thread above) inside the top grill. I simply put a white light you can find at any hardware store that has a remote and works on 3xAAA batteries. I will last several 10’s of hours before replacement, as with a remote no issue opening the top cover each time to power it or shutdown. For the other parts, I went with easiest way forward for me, which was to use discrete LED. The ones I picked are rectangular 2x5x7mm red LEDs that work with 15-20mA/1.9-2.2V from Amazon. I have put the link belowand hope it will stay there, but these are pretty standard and can be easily replaced by Digikey/Mouser equivalents. https://a.co/d/a1I6r5v I used a small 3xAAA battery pack with rechargeable batteries that generates 4.4V and will also last 10s of hours in the Gauntlet (around 8-10h on the chest), which is perfect for using with the LED (I put 2 diodes in series). I simply added a small resistor adjusted to number of diodes to limit current. (ex: 4ohms for 2 x 2 diodes). For the 4 squares in the gauntlets, I used 4 LEDs (2 x 2 in series), for the larger rectangle, I used 6. As for the large rectangle in the chest, I used 20 (10 sets of 2 diodes in series). I glued them on an aluminum sheet (from dollar store), it helps reflect back the light in the right direction. The reason for the aluminum is to dissipate the heat from the LEDs, you don't want those to heat up and melt the PLA. As those are still discrete LEDs, you have to diffuse their light to have a uniform red glow. I used 2x 0.3mm layers on white PLA sheets I printed, cut and glued in front of the transparent red plastic of the gauntlet/ chest armor. I soldered them, then added a layer of insulating tape between the leads and the aluminum sheet to avoid shorts. I also potted the lead in clear silicone to further insultate and prevent leads from moving around. and attached them to the gauntlet with white duct tape (so that they can be removed if broken). Took me around 3h to get it done for all the parts, pretty straight forward stuff. Could be nicer looking, but nobody sees it…! N.B. I added aluminum foil on top of the duct tape and secured it with yet another layer of duct tape to block the light... otherwise the armor was glowing from the inside 😊 Below is a schematic of the assembly and basic concept of LED assembly. You should do your own circuit and validate with someone familiar with these kind of circuits prior to assembling the lighting system Below is the LED arrays prior to soldering and insultating. Unfortunately, I forgot to take picture after final assembly... The inside of the gauntlets after assembly Very difficult to take pictures of the light with a phone without over exposing the light/ under exposing the armor (phones hate LEDs), but here is a first pic that show the functional light. The most realistic view is actually from reflection on the floor…! For nicer images, I did use my reflex on the chest with two light settings and take some longer exposure to get the color right, gives a pretty good idea.

Yes, I wished I had these tips before going through with the trials! I thought I had it under control after going through it with a few silicone parts I had casted with my other armor... Once you get it right, it's very comfortable and you can move (and bend!), I would say it's worth the time spent so that I will be able to troop easily. I will assist others who would like to go that path for sure!

A bit of delay as I was completing the lights for the jetpack, chest and gauntlets (will post some nice pics later, but very satisfied with low cost solution to get screen accurate lighting ). Here is one nasty part that gave me a lot of trouble... the ABS Abs section Probably the most challenging part is going to be the ABS section. The canon pictures are showing flexible armor With only one seam on the right side. On top of being accurate, I really did not want a hard armor, since either will be too large of a fit, or will be very uncomfortable (I can relate with my sith trooper). So I decided early on I would cast the ABS. I designed a mold out of 3D print (+bondo+ filler+ clearcoat to get perfect smooth finish) based on many pictures. 3D models online are not perfectly accurate and of course cannot be made flat. I will have the 3D model available on my Etsy soon for everyone. It had to be printed in 4 sections on my large printer to be approx. 330mm x 1000mm, as I am 5’8’’ /165lbs but I want the ABS mold to be fitting a bit larger/taller troopers if needed. casting material ****** old post, do not use- see updated material in later post****** So I did a LOT of research on best suited material (I didn’t want to go to silicone, unless last resort as it cannot be painted ( except with costly stuff) and with the size, would be also costly. I went with Smooth-on Tuff Stuff 15, which is supposed to be designed for cosplay. Ok, that was a learning experience which cost me 4 full bottles, chat with Smooth-on tech guys, frustrations,… I colored it with so-strong pigment white and black to end up with a grey. Just black is not accurate or enough qty. Lessons learned: - Works great if : - You cast it with a room that is 20-23C. Don’t do it in hot or cold environment. The foam WILL collapse - You have to use the proper mold release and don’t be cheap on it, urethane is very sticky - Don’t remove it out of the mold before 24h, even if they say 3h,… it WILL collapse in some areas - Mix it with color in part B only. Mix it with mechanical mixer ( I used Allway HMQHelix paint mixer drll attachment on Amazon) in a high container (from 1$ store- you will throw it away) so that your mixer on your power drill will not inject air into it. Mix it for 1min at full throttle, after the first 30s, poor in new container, otherwise you will have some areas that will not cure. - Once mixed…you have 1min to poor it and level. You’ve got to be fast and accurate as it will expand 4x, not to have thin and way too thick - You have to put a plate with stoppers over it to control thickness uniformity (aim 8-9mm) and have a nice surface finish. - Even with all this, you will end up with marble finish (after several chat with smooth-on staff) , but surface finish will nice and even, so when you apply the paint it will be smooth and nice. I used Tulip grey fabric spray paint ( you can get it at Michael’s if your in US or Canada). Fabric spray paint is the best for this flexible material. It’s scary when you apply it, but when dried it is very uniform. Below are images of the mold open and closed with the cover (showing white stoppers to have 8-9mm thick ABS ( I tried several thickness and this is the optimal for this product). ****SEE UPDATED MATERIAL IN SUBSEQUENT POST-DO NOT USE AS-IS***** Here is the ABS as demolded. Painted The ideal is to use straps on the ABS to support weight of the belt, cod and holster. I used velcros from brand 'Velcro' heavy duty, white from Amazon) inside and outside to secure the parts to the ABS

Hi! Thanks for the feedback! i can certainly place specific images directly in the text for detailed areas if preferred. for ease of reading I thought it would be better to have a separate picture document. all the reference here are supported by the screenshots of the document in the gallery season 3 section in which I separated each armor section with multiple images for each. https://docs.google.com/file/d/1kyFo-slANYcMenbP4R1iwSTxfOJ2AJoJ/edit?usp=docslist_api&filetype=msword this is a detailled proposal in which I though of placing details, but if you prefer to have a more general document just remove the details references.

Here are some additions to the proposal list above: Holster Holster is made from white leather or synthetic leather. A rigid frame may be used under the leather/synthetic leather to give it the proper shape around the pistol but must not be visible. Features two retention straps with a snap button closure to secure the blaster pistol The front loop attaches approximately under first box on the left side of the wearers The back loop attaches approximately under the 4th boxes of the wearer’s left The two loops joint together to form a singe v-shape above the holster Balaclava/ neck seal A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair. Right Gauntlet Gauntlet is white in color. various boxes on all sides are medium grey in color that matches the medium grey color of the armor Gauntlet is a clamshell-style without any visible closure methods and has seam line present on each side. The gauntlet can be divided into 4 sections: top, inner, bottom and outer sides. The top of the gauntlet features three steps with the tallest at the beginning of the wearer’s elbow with the following features: - There is a red rectangle on the inner side the tallest step - A rounded Dart launcher sits in a rounded base atop of the tallest step. It is black and silver in color with a two-step cone with pointed tips. The main cone has holes representing the chambers for individual darts. - On the the edge of the second step, is a silver whipcord launcher greeblie - On the last step is a recessed display near the wearer’s wrist on which all buttons are medium grey color that matches the medium grey color of the armor The outer side of the gauntlet has the following feature: - There is a large box on which 4 grey smaller boxes are attached - At the tip of this box, two circular ports of flame throwers are present and are silver color The inner and bottom sides are comprising: - a semi-circular shape on which multiple recessed trapezoidal shapes are present - A red square shape Level 2 The two red colored shapes are red illuminated The outer side large white box and its grey box are visibly separate parts The whipcord launcher greeblie has a middle cylinder shape and dents on the top Left Gauntlet Gauntlet is white in color. various boxes on all sides are medium grey in color that matches the medium grey color of the armor Gauntlet is a clamshell-style without any visible closure methods and has seam line present on each side. The gauntlet can be divided into 4 sections: top, inner, bottom and outer sides. The top side of the gauntlet has the following feature: - a white raised box with angled extremities with the following features o On angled extremity, there is a trapezoidal shape with black color o A small black square shape near the wrist side o A square red shape toward the elbow extremity of the top box - Two cylinders silver color with rounded extremities - A rectangular grey box near the wrist The outer side of the gauntlet has the following feature: - A raised angled white box on which there are two medium grey shapes The inner/bottom sides are comprising: - A semi-circular shape on which multiple recessed trapezoidal shapes are present - A red square shape Level 2 The two red colored square shapes are red illuminated The grey boxes are visibly separate parts Jetpack All grey parts on the jetpack should be medium grey color matching the medium grey of the rest of the armor. The jetpack has anchoring points to attach to the back armor and is removable The jetpack has a recess to wrap around the back armor and hide the anchoring points when viewed from the side The Jet pack consists of a main body and two side reactors all white color. The main body is thicker than the side reactors The main body comprises the following features from top to bottom: - A black intake with grills matching the outer shape of the main body. Inside the grill is a visible red shape - A rectangular grey shape with chamfered top and bottom edges centered on the main body and extending up to the start of the grills. - A cavity in which a grey and white plate is placed. The grey portion of the plate has two rectangular shapes and the white portion has also two rectangular shapes - A white exhaust vent grill at the bottom The side reactors are symmetrical and have the following features from top to bottom: - An angled top - A large box with tapered top and 4 recessed cavities - 5 vertical cylinders attached atop of the large box - A small rectangular grey shape directly underneath the large box with two recesses, creating 3 sections - 2 small trapezoidal grey stabilizing fins located on the outside of each reactor - black directional thrusters, recessed into the bottom of the side reactors Level 2 All grey and black components are visibly separate parts The top grill has a functional red lighting The bottom grill is visibly a separate part Flight suit Flight suit is a medium gray, may have a tint of brown and is made of cotton/cotton-blend, plain-weave material. Alternatively, it can be made of a stretch fabric for the lower pants Topstitching is same color as material One or two-piece in construction, but joining of top and bottom must not be visible when all costume components are attached. Flight suit top shows no closure method when worn. A panel must cover the front zipper if present. Flight suit top as a mandarin style collar Flight Suit has double sleeves: long sleeves with short sleeves layered on top Short sleeves have horizontal quilted ribs Long sleeves have horizontal quilted ribs visible between the short sleeves and the gauntlets. Flight Suit does not have any visible pockets, zippers or logos when all costume components are attached. Level 2 Flight suit is one piece construction Alternate stretch fabric Optional Accessories Pistol blaster Pistol blaster may be scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Imperial Armored commando pistol blaster Details to be painted black and metallic per reference photos. Rifle blaster Pistol blaster may be scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Imperial Armored commando rifle blaster Details to be painted black and metallic per reference photos.