Jedxh

PPCDIGITAL on etsy is another. Here's a link Edit: just realised PewPewCrafts is PPC smh 🤦‍♂️

Bro heard they were getting grey pieces and took them all

Hmm I wonder how would this be done on rubber shoulder straps? My qualm with using a Dremel on rubber ones would be potentiality damaging the integrity and causing splitting or ripping.

I think these specific troopers were 're-wrapped' with newer, cleaner fabric. Not only do the wraps look different, but they seem more loosely done than the on screen ones. You can see what are essentially tan lines from the original wraps in some spots. Darker ones seem to be the originals, where the brighter ones I'd assume were added for these promo pics.

Looks fantastic. Dirty that Kama up and you're set. Very nice.

The gold leaf really makes a difference. Looks great.

This is the current "new gen" neckseal from KeepTrooping. It has the stitched, ribbed material at the base (same as the undersuit, L3 compliant) and a thinner ribbed material for the actual neckseal, unsure exactly what type the top part uses but it's similar to that of a wetsuit.

Would you look at the time, seems like it's pew pew o'clock. So let's get to it! Due to airsoft guns being outright illegal in Australia (sigh), I wasn't able to get the initial base gun I wanted. Nor was I able to obtain the import permits for a deactivated Sterling due to it requiring permission from my states AG. So instead, I acquired a 'basic build kit' from BlasterFactory. The BF E-11s are based on the traditional Sterling SMGs used in the OT films; where as the Rogue One and anthology series E-11s use an airsoft variant as the base, both real and casts. So basically this build is a kinda love child of the two, or a mutant.. anyways, the primary reference I used for the build is this one from the reference library: It is what I've been referring to as the 'hero' version. Much like OT blasters, there's decent variation between the E-11s we've seen on screen in recent years, so I wanted to have a specific 'fallback reference' to come back to, despite the airsoft/sterling differences. I also prefer it's scope rail over the block ones so there's that too. Delivery was super quick with no import issues thankfully. My previous experience importing blasters hasn't gone so well in the past. Despite me jumping through the many hoops that be our ridiculous import laws, I had one of my resin blasters quite literally broken and destroyed by customs (with what I still believe was malicious intent). Here's how I received that one: Forever salty about that, but anyways, here's the basic BlasterFactory E11 with a (not destroyed) resin E11: She's a beaut. Chris really does fantastic work. - Got it dis-assembled and ready for prep: -Vintage folding stock was delivered with no issues either: -Sourced a vintage R1 appropriate scope that was re-purposed for civilian use and repainted, so it needed stripping: - After removing it from the mount I used acetone to remove the blue paint which was easier than expected. The large optic ring was shiny brass so I repainted with hammer finish followed by flat clear, which was the closest match to the rest: I did keep the original mounting screws, but still have the mount itself if anyone's interested in that sort of stuff. - Also bought the replica 'Surefire' flashlight and rails. Link to my rails post HERE Flashlight link HERE. - As mentioned before, the new era E-11s use a number of different scope rails/mounts so I just bought one from BlasterFactory. The counter mount isn't accurate but I'll probs mod that in the future. Ordered a vintage end cap too, but decided against the vintage grip as there's almost no difference besides the age and weathering. I do plan on swapping some minor stuff too, like the stock screws for example. Sterlings had a smooth dome where as the R1 version had flat head ones, and the BF replica uses hex ones. The aluminum folding stock also uses grub screws instead of a pin-locking system but that's part of the design with the reproduction so I don't think there's much I can do there. Another is the rear sight screw being flat-headed instead of a hex, I think? Will have to double check, but this is just me being picky. - For the Hengstler, I'm waiting until I can find a vintage small eagle version for a good price, but for the time being I just used an already finished resin one I had spare, though it is a medium eagle one (with a small crack/split). I did print up a Rogue One style counter (thanks Trooper96) but haven't gotten around to getting it completed just yet: After getting almost all the required parts, it was now time for primer and paint. - I painted certain pieces (barrel for example) with straight-up flat black, but parts like the mag-well, front sight and rear catch got coats of etch primer to retain as much detail as possible. - Got the trigger housing/grip assembly and power cyls complete, then slightly weathered for now. Just sandpaper for the grip, but for the cylinders I used gun-metal paint and liquid latex before the flat black, then removing the latex to reveal a gun metal colour instead of the base aluminium, finished with flat clear. Everything here got the same black and clear, though the selector switch is untouched at this point: I used a thin disc magnet glued to the base of the cylinders to attach it, this way the mag-well details aren't ruined by glue or anything. The magnet is strong enough to reach the magazine inside and is secure enough that it won't fall off easily. - Probably unnecessary, but the main body tube got some etch primer for texture before the other etched parts were attached and ready for final paint. When painting/priming I suspended most parts from wire and cut coat hangers. For body tube primer and then final paint, I used a set-up similar to what Chris does in THIS video and can't recommend it enough, made everything way easier. - Now, the final paint was rustoleum hammered with flat clear. I tried multiple paints and primer combos on scrap aluminium before settling on the etch+hammered+flat clear. I wanted to closely match the vintage parts without repainting them and I am happy with the result. I did consider trying wrinkle paint but felt the forces of Vern cursing me so I decided against it. Because this is a weathered build I also applied gun-metal paint to spots across the blaster, followed by liquid latex before the hammered. Same as what I did with the power cylinders. - Found the sling mount and talon swivel thingies at a local gun store which was a bonus. It was easily swapped with the bayonet lug. (Still really wanna use a sling with the R1TK, crl update maybe? Plz? I beg) - Bought some "M-Loc t-nuts" for the rail, these seem to be the best solution to attach it securely for trooping. I did this step almost last and it was a pain, I'd suggest doing it earlier in the build. I couldn't use the included rail screws as they were too short, so I used the ones that came with the t-nuts. Not accurate, but it'll do for now. I found the t-nuts locally but you can find the same type on Amazon HERE. I picked up some accurate t-track and installed it using THIS method as hot water didn't work for me. I cut the tracks to these lengths: 1 x 7.25" 4 x 6.5" 2 x 2.5" Once installed they're actually quite secure, I only used glue on one that was a little loose. And without further ado, here it is completed (for now): (scope works too, couldn't pickup the crosshairs with the pic but its way more clear irl) With R1 being ANH adjacent I was going for a more 'real' look and feel with this build, more Sterling and less airsoft if you will. Total weight comes to 2.2kg/4.85lbs for anyone wondering. This was my first proper, full blaster build and I'm very happy with the final product. Test-trooped with it too and everything held up great, even against some VERY grab-happy younglings. My resin and printed ones would've had pieces break off in that situation. Still got some upgrading to do, gotta get a vintage counter, add a dome hex bolt to the mag and a lil more weathering, but I'm deeming it finished as of now. (is anything ever truly "finished" in this hobby though xd). I also can't wait to see how it fares in the coming years, with the wear and tear of trooping I really hope it gets more of that grubby, beat-up R1 look to it. Side note. Unfortunately I had to ditch the vintage stock because of issues when installing. The catch sits further back on the vintage one and doesn't lock into the folded position, even when swapping the catch parts with parts from the included aluminium one. I really tried to make it work without any serious modifications but it just won't. It also didn't wanna work with both the aluminum and vintage end cap for whatever reason.. Really disappointed as it not only wasn't cheap, but it looks, sounds and feels amazing compared to the aluminium. The only bummer of the build. I do plan to build a non-weathered version, expanding on what I've leant from this build. I am also considering doing a few R1 E11s in a run at some stage, once I work out the most viable (and accurate) parts from the currently available vendors/sellers that is. Now, now it's time to blast some rebels!!

Damn, how'd I miss this reply.. my main concern was potentially having to use gold leaf in the cracks too. It also makes sense that any leafing on the cracks would need paint repairs as gold leaf is usually done on smooth surfaces. So I completely agree with it being more open ended. Based off of that info, maybe dremelled/engraved cracks with metallic gold paint OR gold leaf should be requirements for level 2 and 3, leaving the "painted on surface" option for base approval as is? Essentially more options whilst still maintaining higher detail requirements for higher approval levels. I also think the larger patches and sections of gold should be addressed in the CRL as only the cracks seem to be mentioned in the draft. Maybe have it the same as the cracks, but worded something like "Larger patches of gold may be gold leaf, OR painted with metallic gold paint to match the appearance of gold leaf." That way, it allows for paint options and either real or imitation gold leaf to be used. My two cents.

Looks so good man. Great job. The boss vocal performer caught my eye, does it work well for the voice? Looking forward to seeing it finished.

"The Vintage Collection Captain Enoch & Thrawn's Night Troopers" announced for pre-order. Link here Some nice variation in this set. Really like the box art. Not sure if these can be used as reference but thought it was worth the share. (Peep the belt trimming)

I honesty might be able to file the edge down for that added touch of accuracy [emoji848]

Rails arrived today. Small one fits nicely on the flashlight and sits flush on the body tube. The rail is secure, but is a little loose when attached, as a result it adds a nice 'metallic rattle' sound, not sure if it's supposed to be that way but I like it honestly. My blasterfactory E-11 is still in its early stages so I'm not sure how I'll mount it as of yet though.

Update: with the help of a mate I ended up getting it back together. He held the catch spring back and kept the buttplate in place, I then held the hook piece in place and hammered in the locking pin. The tension of the spring is what makes this so difficult. The blasterfactory one isn't as strong but it's still a pain. I'm not sure what method Chris uses when assembling his aluminium ones, but man, props to him because this was such a hassle just to swap the catch pieces over. I do not recommend lol.

That was the closest video I found, but with that one being a resin build the assembly is slightly different unfortunately. Was messing with it last night and almost got it together but it seems like I'll have to do it with another pair of hands. Everything else about the blaster assembly is super simple but the stock is incredibly finicky. It basically requires 3 steps to be done simultaneously, the main difficulty is keeping the latch spring compressed whilst hammering in the locking pin. Definitely not designed to be manually assembled. Where's General Grievous when you need him..

Whilst all those kind of videos show the assembly, they don't show how to physically put it together, like with your hands. Specifically the folding stock. It's hard to explain, I know how the parts go together, but don't know how to get them together manually, as I assume the stock was machine assembled when it was made? I'm just wondering if I'm doing something wrong or it's actually this difficult to do?..

I'm losing my mind over here, I took apart both the vintage and aluminium folding stocks but cannot for the life of me get them back together. It's the little 'hook' type piece that's giving me trouble. Is there a method to doing this? Keeping the latch spring compressed whilst simultaneously hammering the pin in and holding the buttplate in place just seems, impossible.. what am I doing wrong?

That's a shame. Aussies getting shafted as usual. Behr however does make a 1 gallon tin of the 52, but it's a semi-gloss. The spray cans are essentially impossible to import being an aerosol, but I'm not sure about the 1gal tins[emoji848] Wondering if that would be a viable option for use with thinner and a spray gun?

Oooh I think I'll grab some from the first link you shared. They're metal plus I can't resist that free shipping [emoji6]

Hi all, As the specific Unmark System Rail is discontinued I am looking for an alternative. The closest I have found is this one There's also these two: https://www.socomtactical.net/tak-tak-smr-metal-rails-set-various-colours/ https://www.lockharttactical.com/store/product/9918-accu-shot-2-05-1913-rail-radius-back-with-hole-spacing-of-1-6-approx Anyone know if any of these would work? Does it need to be exact to the Unmark one? I wouldn't have a clue [emoji2369]

Did a quick wrap test today. Using iridescent silk chiffon in burgundy, I cut some strips of the fabric in different sizes, approx 5cm wide and probably around 30ish cm long. I don't currently have any painted and weathered TK armour pieces finished so I just used my Clone hand plate for the time being. I folded parts of the fabric as I was wrapping/layering. First wrap-around was loose, subsequent attempts worked way better. I was trying to replicate the look from the Eman Esfandi picture and I think it worked exceptionally well. With some adhesive and weathering me thinks this should be perfect. Maybe some fray-stop as well if the adhesive/glue doesn't suffice. The specific company I used was Prism Silks. Here is a link to the chiffon: https://prismsilks.com/products/burgundy-red-iridescent-silk-chiffon?_pos=4&_sid=327245dd2&_ss=r Unless there's any objections I'd say that "iridescent silk chiffon in burgundy colour" is the exact same as what was used on screen, or its the absolute closest thing in my opinion. If the wraps extend to level 2-3 I think this specific fabric should be listed,yes?

Yessir, my plan is to spray the non-strapped parts first, then do the rest once any strapping and whatnot is done.

Cheers for that, accuracy wise I'll go with the white in that case. Was thinking of using Rustoleum leak seal as its less than 20 per can, wouldn't have a clue how many to get so I'll "buy as I go", especially considering it's one-day delivery via Amazon

Basically title. Seen both black and white backing used on different build threads for the Jimmi fibreglass kits. Don't really know what to use myself. Was wondering if it really matters or makes a difference either way? Ty.

Is it confirmed that gold leaf was used specifically in the cracks? I get the larger patches (and Enoch) using gold leaf, but logically I'd assume the cracks are just painted, or filled using something like gold Rub'nBuff? Would the costume team/artists really have gone to the length of gold leafing all the cracks on not one, but multiple sets of armour..? Has anyone done tests on filling dremelled cracks with gold leaf? I can't imagine it being consistent nor easy.