Kagamaru

Kidney Plate Extension Guidance: According to the diagram that is posted for kidney plate extension the bottom edge runs parallel with the top edge. But the diagram isn’t accurate to my armor. If it ran straight across there would be an overhang on the ab plate by about an inch. See photos below. So which is more correct/approvable for centurion level? I cut one shim straight and one at an angle so they meet flush. Advice is appreciated! Please and thanks!

Forum Request: Is there anyway to be allowed access to these topics? Especially:HOWTO: Make your TK as accurate as possible. Thanks in advance.

Buttons attached!

Corner Update: More heat. I used the corner of a ruler on the other side to push the corner shape a bit more. Then another on the out side to pinch the edges more or less vertical. I’m pleased with this result. The last photo is in place on the ab plate. Not glued in yet.

Okay I did the heat gun thing. Is this passable? It’s still not crisp like the other one.

Choices Choices: What is the better option here? I got these two Ab plate buttons from WTF. On the left the surrounding plate is nice and smooth, ready for a nice looking mount. But it has a sunken corner on the lower left. The plate on the right has four good corners but the surrounding bit has dimples that will be within the trimmed edge. Thoughts? Should I try to heat that corner with my heat gun and gently push it out with like a pencil eraser?

Question: The junction around the elbow is quite pinchy. How much can I sand it down and still be in Centurion level parameters? I’m going to try to lower it first by lengthening the strap a little. If you look at my photo above you can see my right wrist is hanging out a bit. So there is room to lower it. Will that solve the pinching?

Update June 21: All of the advice paid off! Went with webbing straps rather than elastic for the bell to bridge straps. Added fabric facing glued in place to the elastic strap on the shoulder bridge to put the snap on plus white Velcro. They ain’t going anywhere! :D Thanks for the guidance everyone! At some point I will need to trim my neck seal bib down a little. It wants to poke out and say hello.

I might switch the elastic on the top of the shoulder bells for webbing so it doesn’t stretch. That might hold it tighter to the chest connecting straps.

Update: Arm straps snap system installed. Chest and back are connected. No 1/4 inch elastic yet. I had one snap pull through the shoulder upon removal of the armor. I think I know the problem though. The snap had to be removed and repositioned and I think it got damaged. Will replace with whole new strap as now the hole in the middle is torn too wide for a new snap. Not sure what to do about the shoulder bells pulling the white elastic out of position to be exposed. When I replace it I might glue it in to the shoulder pieces up to the ends to give more resistance. Now that the forearms and biceps are strapped together I am understanding more about pinch and limited mobility. I don’t really want to go to the larger bells. I have a set. But they just look too big. Thoughts?

This all helps a lot! Thank you!

Okay great! Thank you!!

Three spacers down or 5 spacers down The reference photos show about 5. But it feels like it sits better at 3. And then I’m not sure if my chest plate shoulder tabs might be shorter than reference hence sitting better at 3. Thoughts?

Starting a build thread here. I’ve been working through my armor since the end of May. Slow but sure. Armor type: Walt’s Trooper Factory Build Level Goal: Centurion

The tk crl for centurion build says that the gap between the ab and kidney plays should be minimal to none. While I’m not a really big guy I’m not 170lbs. If I’m going for centurion level what do I need to do about this space that will still pass?

This is all good news! Thank you!!!

So you don’t have to do the og brackets to qualify for centurion? I’d much rather do this strap method!

I am attempting a centurion level build for my first tk. The kit from Walt’s had the butt and kidney plates joined in one vacu-form piece. That level requires that they be separated. So in cutting them apart I just barely have any return edge to drill and screw into for the wire joiners. Is that going to be an issue if I move those holes into the corner? Is there a better or more successful path to success here? If this is the wrong thread to post this question let me know and I’ll move it. I’m new here and learning