Nairy

My thumbs hurt from all this manic refreshing

I am aware of the images not having a contrasting background but it is unfortunately the only wall I have in my apartment that can get somewhat grey instead of super white (and I have no possibility to put up a sheet of some sort at the moment either)

Here is a better image of the right shim without under suit in the way

Here is another image with the sniper knee adjusted a tiny bit more

Name: Jonatan Östling TK ID: 23592 Garrison: Swedish Garrison Forum name: Nairy Armor maker: RS Prop Masters Helmet maker: RS Prop Masters Blaster: E11 RS Prop Masters Hight: 182cm/5'11.65 Weight: 100kg/220lbs Body type: Long legs, long arms, shorter torso The undersuit had just when I took the picture gone above the shim, as seen before this pitcure Thank you for your consideration! TK-23592 signing off

I was pretty much done with one side but my clear coat lifted up the enamel paint that I had used. I have been having issues with my oil paints and the application for weeks now so I just sanded it all off now so I'm back to square one, even though I have this matched paint already. I'm thinking of using thin coats of spray paint (RAL 9010) even though it was much brighter white than the ABS that I have. If I just take it easy and put on some dustings a few times a day and sand back where I don't need it, I think it will be fine in the end.

When you clear coated to protect the paint, did you only do one layer?

Yeah I also use wet sanding with 2000 before using this method with the friction! I'm thinking of using compound too ☺️ But this was just sharing one more alternative to that!

Hello! I have painted my shim gap with Humbrol enamel paints and a paint I got custom from a vendor which is oil based. In this tip thread I have worked the normal ABS plastic surface and a little bit of the painted area, it works for both, although better on the painted area. I used a trick from the modelling world and used the lightest sanding stick there is (in a packet of modelling sanding sticks) which is really only plastic. Using this stick to rub against the armor with the softer side (blue) first and then the more plastic side (white) will restore shine to your armor because of the heat that is created by the friction. The armor before using this method The spot where I used the method A close up of the softer (blue) side And lastly a close up of the more plastic (white) side Please let me know if you try this and how it works! Of course this is not a guarantee that it works for you, but depending on how hard and fast you rub the more friction you will create, but make sure that your surface is clean when you rub, and watch out so you don't catch any fragments of dirt och plastic or anything like that since it could scratch into your paint.

I have now come back from the paint store. I am going to paint my armor like they did in the store which was with a little stain removal sponge which has a little bit of a sanding effect but the layer it applied was very smooth, and since it is a sponge it didn't leave any brush strokes which was nice. The code for my color they mixed is (some of it might be Swedish but the recipe should be of value): Product name: QUICK BENGALACK UNI-LACK BL Base name: A-BAS Recipe: OK000.5 SV004 Here are some images from the adventure:

I just called up a local company here in my town, and they were very accommodating in me coming in there with a few small pieces of armor I had cut off to color match. It will be an oil based color that could be applied to plastic. The finish will be smooth and have the right shine when dried, so here's me "holding my thumbs" (Swedish expression, for luck) that it will turn out great! They also told me to bring my helmet with me so they can use that for inspiration. If I get any data from them of what colors they used I will update and let y'all know!

Second try (couldn't find my member ID) Requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=35506

Hello fellow troopers! Some try to paint match with brush and clear coat, some try RAL 9010 spray paint, some paint match and airbrush, some use ABS paste and sand. I have an RS Prop Masters kit that I'm currently trying to paint over a filled and sanded shim seam. I tried RAL 9010 spray paint, but it was too white (I put on many small coats because in the beginning of painting I got small droplets here and there and it just became too thick). I then sanded of everything and started with paint matching and found that Humbrol Enamel Satin 130 worked pretty nice (it will most definitely work and match on your rivets and screws) - and plan to sand it down a bit and maybe put a clear coat on it and then polish up with a little bit of scratch remover or something of that nature. I have 4 small pieces that I have cut off of my Hero belt and Stunt belt, but I doubt those 4 little pieces (2-3mm wide and belt height high) will be enough to create ABS paste. Talking paints then I have heard of people using RAL 9010 spray paint with success, especially for FOTKs it is a great match, but the RS Prop Masters kit is more creamy in its color than that. What colors have you had success with? Please share below as I am dire to hear about your success(es)!

Hellu! TK-23592 requesting the thing!

Hello everyone! I am Jonatan Östling from Sweden and I just got approved! A dream has come true! I cannot wait to connect more with the people in the Swedish Garrison and go out on troops, and taking my kit through the higher levels of approval (so you'll see me in the EIB and Centurion request threads)! I was so excited that I spend a few hours at work to create this fun little signature with Obi-Wan in the background! Enjoy!

@Deployment Officer Team Hello! Does this angle on the counter and the number of coils look passable for centurion?

I cut the left side (as you wear) now! Looks good! And the right side (as you wear) actually turned out pretty good. At least passable I think!

Yeah nice, the left side seems ok to cut as you say! I'm thinking of maybe trying that cut you suggest here on the right side (as you wear) just to see how it looks, I could sneakily trim the bottom of the belt a little bit along with doing a small cut on the edge, just to get it small enough so that it can pass!

@gmrhodes13 Thanks! Here is the completed E11 then!

Ok this should do it!

I adjusted it now, how does it look?

As for the E11, I have moved down the angle on the counter now a bit. How does this look? It is a little more on a down angle than the straight rail, as you can see in image 2. Also, as for the wires, I got told to remove some coils, how much do you reckon I remove?

I adjusted the thermal detonator so now I should cover the "little" in "little to no" right?

Awesome! Thanks! I have some additional concerns about my Hero belt, they cut this even closer to the cloth belt compared to my Stunt belt, look at this... It looks like I can't do much here, what do you think?

This is the other one