TrickyT81

Thanks as always, fellas. Good to see you back, Jospeh. Sent from The Empire

Hi all, So I’ve trimmed out the ammo belt, drilled out the holes and aligned this to the canvass belt (the centre hole placement aligns to the centre of the canvass belt). As this is RS, it’s not completely symmetrical. My intended approach is to fix the ammo belt in place first and then cut off the corners so they line up to the canvass belt correctly. How does that sound? Thanks. Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Mario. I’m just doing some additional glueing on the sniper knee and will send some more photos once the clamps are off. What are your thoughts on the shoulder bell elastics?

Hi folks, So I have a few questions at this point in my build. Deadline with the easiest ones first: 1. My canvass belt is due to arrive, are there any decent tutorials on building the ammo belt, that also includes how to set the snaps so they align correctly to the armour. 2. When connecting my shoulder bells, the elastic lifts from my shoulders. Is this ok, or should the elastic be longer? Conscious this will make the gap between shoulder bridges and bells wider. 3. Now for the challenging one; the sniper knee. I won’t lie, I found this really difficult and have glued, detached and re-glued a number of times to get the alignment right. Just to remind you all, this is RS armour who provide 2 right shins. Because of this, aligning the sniper knee to the shins does prove difficult (as Joseph pointed out earlier in my thread). I feel I have lined this up as best as possible but at a cost. As you’ll see from the images below, the clamps have left a dint in the plastic (sigh). Depending on the light, it can look better/worse. Before I get despondent, or start reordering a new shin, are there any solutions to fix this? The sniper knee can be removed if needed. Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Glen. Just to clarify, as it may not have come across in my initial question, the picture of the helmet is what I currently have, not with the lenses installed which appear darker. Sent from The Empire

Hi all, Just a quick sidestep to my helmet lenses while I’m waiting for glue to dry on my shins. I bought some hard plastic lenses to replace the acetate I currently have on there. As you’ll see from the pictures below, it’s a different green to what I currently have so before I installed these I thought I’d check if this would affect clearance or Centurion? Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Hi all, I’m nearing the end of my ESB TK build and getting together my additional accessories, one of these being my E-11 Blaster. I currently have ANH E-11 so would like to know… 1. What are the differences between the ANH and ESB blasters? 2. Is it possible to modify my current blaster to the ESB spec? I have sourced a blaster but looking at alternatives if it saves me a bit of money if I can. Thanks folks, Tim

Hi all, Shins are coming along nicely. I have a couple of questions regarding the back of the shins and some trimming to make sure these would be accepted at Centurion level. 1. Instead of the hook and elastic method, is Velcro ok? 2. I was looking to make the below cut for mobility. Is this correct? Thanks all, Tim Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Glen. Judging by the images, it looks like I won’t need to take off too much. I’ll start by tidying up the front bottom part of the shin and go slow from there.

Just a question on the kidney/ab straps. I’ve initially used strong elastic but despite this being short enough so that it doesn’t stretch, it still does, particularly at the hip area. This makes the seam out of line. I’m wondering whether I should use the nylon webbing instead? I used this for the back pieces and it works really well to keep everything in line, although it does restrict movement a little. Would nylon webbing be ok for the ab/kidney connection, or should I stick with elastic?

Thanks, FN. Do you think the height I marked on the picture in yellow is ok or too low?

Hi all, I’m about to move onto, from my point of view, the most crucial part of my build; the shins. To give some context, here are the reasons for this: 1. My height. I’m rather “short for a stormtrooper” so I will need adequate clearance between the between the thigh and shin to avoid clicking or overlap of the sniper knee 2. I have chunky calves. I have already tried to compensate for this in my measuring and may need to think about additional steps to help them fit comfortably without putting strain on the joints. 3. This is an RS kit who provide 2 right shin moulds (or 2 left) so I will need to compensate for this as I’m aware that the outside of the shin (above the ankle) drops lower than the inside. 4. Also because of the RS kit, the back of the shins don’t align at the top too well (see picture below of my commission build). With that said, and I know I need to add the cover strips and elastic, my first question is around getting both shins to the right height by trimming the bottom into shape. Below is a picture of my starting point with no trimming in place and where I think the top of the shin should be (yellow line) plus a picture of the back. Should I aim for getting both shins the same height so when the sniper knee is added, there is a sufficient gap, or should I treat each shin separately? Thanks all, Tim Sent from The Empire

Brill. Thank you, sir. Sent from The Empire

Hi Glenn, thanks for this. Sorry if this is obvious but, if you can, are you able to mark on the image what you mean by the top ridge? Sent from The Empire

Hi all, Ok, so got the hand guards sewn to the gloves. Great advice, Glenn. Much appreciated. As another question, I’m looking to make the below mobility cuts to my thighs (only the left is pictured because the other is glueing). Will these adjustments affect my application for Centurion? Sent from The Empire

Hi all, Whilst I’m waiting for parts of my armour’s glue to cure, I thought I’d make a start on sewing the hand guards to the gloves. Are there any tutorials how on how to do this? I couldn’t find anything myself and I’m a bit stuck on the best way to position the hand guard and sew it on correctly without sewing the palm and back pieces of the glove together if that makes sense? Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Spartan. I have a pair rivet setting pliers. Are you able to tell me what attachments I need to use to set the single cap rivets? Sent from The Empire

Hi all, Just a couple of questions… 1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead? 2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up? Sent from The Empire

So I’m well underway with the strapping and doing good so far (albeit at the expense of a few dud straps through learning). Whilst the post of the female snap wasn’t quite long enough to compensate for the elastic going over the nylon webbing, I just added the nylon piece to the end of the elastic and this works quite well. In my opinion, it’s better than folding over the elastic as it more secure hole that doesn’t stretch out when the elastic is pulled. As an additional advantage, the solder iron fuses and seals the 2 pieces together when making the holes; an advantageous accident. I would say that I needed to increase the size of the nylon backing for the male snaps. This was to create a greater surface area for the glue and get a better bond on the plastic. I have a question about the strapping for the kidney/abs. My original RS commission can overlap at times so I’m trying to anticipate this when calculating the length of the strapping in this area. Is there a method to this so when it’s all connected and I close the ammo belt that it all stays in line and doesn’t overlap? Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Exactly what I needed guys. I’ve bought all the tools and materials needed for the double snap method so will take your advice. As an additional step, I was going to add some black nylon webbing in the ‘fold’ where the female snaps will be added (see pic for ref). I felt this may help prevent the elastic becoming stretched around the snap hole. Do think this is unnecessary? Sent from The Empire

Hi all, So I got the snaps recommended on the ‘Snap Setting 101’ thread. I have a question around the use of double snaps for body straps (shown in the picture below) vs single snaps. Aside from helping to have a more secure connection, does it also help keep the armour in better alignment? The reason for asking is that I’ve seen some troopers using single snaps and thinking this alternative would be less fiddly when kitting up. Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Glenn. I’ve seen that type as well. They’re 15mm wide, is that ok? I only check because the width of the snaps on the exterior of my current armour (which was a commission build with RS) is 12mm. I can get 12mm but the snaps are cheap and nasty. Sent from The Empire

Hi all, Just ordering my snap fasteners. Prym is a high quality brand over here in the uk so I’m looking to order the type below. The back of the ‘post’ looks like this. I just need clarification on whether the back of the fastener (above) needs to be plain or whether it’s ok to have the line pattern. Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Hi folks, I think I’m going to need a bit more guidance on the hand guards. I’ve drawn on my images where I think the trim line should be if you wouldn’t mind checking this for me. The left hand in particular is more tricky as it’s more bulbous and doesn’t have an obvious trim line so I’m completely guessing at the moment. RIGHT LEFT Thanks all, Tim Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Glen. How far apart would you say each ‘sew hole’ is?