MintImperial

Also, I realise I hadn’t posted pics of my boots. So here goes:

Been doing lots of cleanup and fixing highlighted issues. Waiting for flexible acrylic paint to arrive, so I haven’t painted the handguards white yet. But I’ve adjusted the forearm height.

I’ll have this one ready for Level 3. Still WIP now.

Forgot to add my blaster. Since my main E-11 still needs some work, I’m submitting for basic with my Doopydoo’s. It doesn’t have a Hengstler and the scope is an M19 not an M38. But for higher level approvals I will have exactly that.

Yes, thank you. I still have a lot of cleanup to do. That one is definitely the worst.

Thank you, Mike. That’s my aim. (We’re good at aiming and we?)

Additional shots: Left bicep & inside of shoulder bell Right bicep & inside of shoulder bell Outside of left shoulder bell showing swoop + bicep (sorry, didnt take right side for some reason) Front of left bicep (cover strip may need trimming) Front of right shoulder bell & bicep (now I look at it, the bell bottom edge needs some clean-up) Back of right shoulder bell & bicep Forearms (Some E6000 spills to clean up. Sorry.) Left thigh front top (top of cover strip may need to be trimmed) Bottom of left thigh front Left thigh back Right thigh front Right thigh back Inside right thigh showing spilt rivets equally spaced to rear corners Left side of right thigh showing ammo pack & painted rivet Right side of right thigh showing ammo pack & painted rivet Left shin front Left shin back Left side of left shin Right side of left shin Front of right shin Right shin back (Velcro has left some messy tack on the surface. Sorry. Will clean asap.) Electronics: Helmet fans Hearing assist (mics mounted far away from helmet fans) And me:

Thank you all for the great feedback and encouragement. I’ve actually just bought a better belt from Trooperbay last week. I hope this will address all the issues raised but it likely won’t arrive for another month. Not sure why the forearms are still not right as I thought I’d already addressed this. Will have another go at it. White paint on screws and rivets is Humbrol White #22. It goes on nice and white but does seem to dry a bit creamy instead. Any recommendations or tried & tested alternatives? Thermal detonator was crooked as I dressed myself without a mirror. Was trying to rely on photos to get it right. But it does sit straight when worn properly. Handguards are a bit off-white. I can paint them with white acrylic. That will probably look more screen-accurate anyway. Thanks again for all your input. I definitely want to get this as close to perfect as I can.

I have more detailed shots of limbs to post but my battery’s down to 10%. Plus I have to go to bed. Need to get up in one hour. Will add a bit later.

INFORMATION: 1. First/last name James Reeves 2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area Hong Kong Garrison 3. Armor maker Walt’s Trooper Factory (with thermal detonator from Troopermaster) 4. Helmet maker Walt’s Trooper Factory (with white HOVI Mix Pa2 + white comlink mic tip aerator inserts from StarWarsCostume Props & screen-accurate wide mesh from Ukswrath, hand painted stencils for tube stripes, tears and traps from Trooperbay painted in Humbrol Admiral Grey Gloss #5 and French Blue #14, Black #21 and White #22, larger S-trim from BaileyBuildsDesigns) 5. Cloth belt maker StormtrooperShopUK 6. Neck seal maker DarmansProps (with zip fastening) 7. Boot maker Imperial Boots 8. Electronics Helmet fans & SHA hearing assist from Ukswrath 9. Blaster maker (if applicable Doopydoo’s with Kassaraptor scope 10. Gasket maker (if applicable) n/a 11. Height (optional) 5ft 8in 12. weight (optional) 145lbs 13. TK type (ANH Stunt/Hero. ESB, ROTJ. TFA etc.) ANH Stunt 14. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build. gmrhodes13, TKSpartan, justjoseph63, TheSwede, Lord_Potato ESSENTIAL PHOTOS: 1. Front view (arms down) 2. Back view (arms down) 3. Left side (arms raised) 4. Right side (arms raised) 5. Ab plate close-up 6. Helmet close-up (front, left and right sides) 7. Detail photos of any parts you have questions on n/a 8. Interior strapping (optional) ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: Helmet Back Green lenses Frown Hovi Mix aerators & vocoder Left tube stripes & tear Right tube stripes & tear Left ear alignment Right ear alignment Brow trim S-trim Hard hat liner Left shoulder bridge & elastic Right shoulder bridge & elastic Ab & kidney 3 rivets painted white “Han” snap Left drop box alignment Right drop box alignment Drop boxes closed at back E-11 holster attached with 2 rivet-style chicago screws and tan leather straps Soft belt magnet to attach to ab plate Thigh garter & neck seal Velcro attachment Forearm return edge removed Latex hand guards Black rubber chemical gloves

Thanks, as always, Glen. Love that zombie TK! With the elastic I already have in place, the butt locks seem to be holding up quite well. I’m going to put in for basic pre-approval first as it’s been 2 years and I really won’t to join the 501st. If it’s all good for basic then I’ll make other necessary changes asap afterwards for the higher levels.

OK. So this is an actual photo taken today. Not photoshopped.

I can totally see how that would be so. While I don’t want to restrict movement, my issue is that the sides also drop down like in the photoshopped demonstration below.(Somehow I’ve never taken a photo of it actually happening. I had it held in place with gaffer tape inside.): I’ll try it again with my new tabs in place to see if it still does this but my guess is it will. With WTF armour having the kidney and butt in one mould, they have barely any return edge once separated, so the V clip would have nothing to grab onto.

I considered the V but I felt my particular problem needed something more like this.

BUTT LOCKS. Yeah, I said it. Because my kidney plate is trimmed quite slim, my butt plate has a tendency to pop out. Think this is called “trooper butt”, is that right? So I’ve created some tabs & slots to lock my butt plate into place using some small strips of ABS and a heating iron. No idea if this is going to work until it’s all glued into place. But the beauty of E6000 is I can always remove it if it doesn’t work. Waiting for the butt tabs to cure overnight before aligning the kidney slots tomorrow.

Yeah I’ve read about this on other builds. Thanks again.

Thanks Mario. Glad to know a little imperfection is ok.

That’s such a relief. Thank you. Yes, it’s totally hidden by the belt but I may try your paint trick, probably just spotting it with some white to see if it lifts the shadow. I wouldn’t have though of that.

Thank you, Glen.

While the above attempts with ABS paste aren’t perfect, I’m mostly happy with them. Unlike the work I’ve done to fill in the notches on my kidney plate. You can see that here in my other thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51058-1st-build-wtf-tk-issues-aligning-ab-kidney-plates-on-left/?do=findComment&comment=758220

I’ve been through the process twice now and the results look exactly the same. I’m actually really disappointed. There seems to be a dark line underneath and every time I got close to sanding the surface flush it starts to show through. Not sure if I had a pencil mark on there before or what. Would the result below be good enough to get me through (at least basic) approval? A bit disheartened, to be honest.

Back of left thigh:

Front of left thigh:

Back of right thigh: