BigJasoni

All, great eyes on all these details. First, let me touch on Glen's comments: Excellent choice for showing us a lot of details. What's hilarious about this is that the props department accidentally flipped the leg armor around on this guy after the initial pummeling. I'm not sure how I never noticed it before, but those legs are definitely backwards. Here's the same TK literally 11 seconds prior. Lol. I guess Boba hit him harder than we thought. Another thing to point out which was present on the display at celebration is that the TD end caps are not painted grey. The current ROTK CRL states "The center of both end caps is grey." This is currently an EIB requirement that I think should remain for the Remnant, but for New Generation TKs, our new references appear to have white caps. White caps in The Mandalorian White caps in Kenobi White caps at Celebration Remnant from the Mandalorian season 1 with grey cap. There's another remnant that appears to have white caps, but I can't get a clear enough shot to determine, so I have to assume it's grey. This is probably the best pic we've gotten of it so far, so that confirms my suspicions. Honestly, I was kind of guessing on this with my original reference photo since it was the same promo shots as the aforementioned belt tab. When I was researching this last year, I was more interested in the trapezoid on top of the middle sized box. However, I took my best guess and incorporated the elastic recess into the belt boxes I posted in the 3D Print Repository a while back. Again, if anyone wants them, they're available here: YES! Nailed it! Lol. I agree. I know they went over the top on weathering details and making the Remnants look like a depleted unit, but we have to imagine that the intent is for these troopers to be complete. I would love to add the realism of leaving off a drop box or the TD, but since we have a mixed bag of examples, I have to lean towards the ones that have all their gear.

@revlimiter, good eye. I would go along with your idea on heavy weathering in this case since it's an OT helmet. The reason I say that is because the absence of stripes on an appropriately placed decal, or hand painting, would mean that they weren't hand painted on, or it was simply oversprayed. Additionally, the heavy overspray on every gray detail leads me to believe that your assumption is correct. However, this picture also highlights a few other areas some of us have discussed previously and also shows the abuse these costumes and accessories have endured. First, going back to the overspray/ weathering, the same thing that's going on with the tears also appears to be happening on the rear traps. Additionally, the black outlines on all these details appear to be dulled to the point where they're nearly extinct. This also includes the rank/ ear bar which only shows a tiny bit of black paint. Next is actually a bit of confirmation on some building techniques. We often joke about how gaffer's tape has become "canon" in the Star Wars universe. The side extensions show another example in which the props department likely had to perform a hasty repair on a broken piece. What's interesting to me is that they opted to "hard-mount" the side extension piece to the back armor and then likely secure the chest to the extension using Velcro. I've seen a few examples now where the chest is enabled to disconnect from these extensions, but no examples where the extensions are absent, or where they're not attached to the back. To me, this indicates that the extensions are a semi-permanent part of the back armor. I say "semi-permanent" because things have a tendency to snap off and break, i.e. the belt tab I pointed out previously that Glen opined was either removed, or broken. Next is an item I've seen ominously left off of some maker's ROTK kits; the "frame" that outlines the OII backpack. Honestly, some would consider it a minor detail, but when makers choose to leave it off, it just strikes me as lazy. It's another detail that we as builders have to carefully add if we want that added sense of authenticity, but it's also one of those parts that exists in so many references that I feel it should be a requirement for basic approval. I mean, it's a simple shape and clearly obvious detail, kind of like the hole in the back right shoulder. Here's a pic of both: By the way, this is also a perfect shot of the bicep closure and J-hook, the larger kidney plate, shoulder support tabs, ribbed undersuit, neck opening seal, and the brown underside of the screen accurate elastic. To me, without naming anyone specifically, there's maker who care, and others who make the build more complicated and frustrating to the individual costumer. Back to broken/ missing pieces. Here's a pic of a nicely built E-22 from the Shoretrooper Grunt CRL: As I start digging into the optional accessories, I'll start posting more screen caps of the weapons used by the Remnants, but having built a couple of these, I immediately started noticing things in the pic you posted. The most obvious are the missing sling and flashlight, but when you start looking at the smaller details, you notice that the little cover plates are snapped off. I understand that however, because I was just looking at my E-22 for a Mudtrooper troop I'm about to do tonight, and I noticed that mine has the same problem and needs to be fixed. So, when a person submits photos, these should be complete, similar to my opinion on the TD and Drop Boxes. When working on the details for the E-22 I would like to suggest deviating from the Shoretrooper CRL by not requiring functional lighting. This seems like it should be a level 2 or 3 requirement, not something for basic approval.

Absolutely. The other thing to note is how a few of the troopers in Season 1 were also missing their drop boxes. The TK in this pic is either missing them completely or they ended up tucked into the thigh armor. This is also a great shot of how the forearms, similar to the thighs, are held together so loosely. From experience, I can't emphasize how awesome having a flexible "bungee" holding the arm together is. Here's two different troopers who are both missing their drop boxes which also compliments the next picture. I think I asked Andrew about this last year. How do we account for a missing accessory? At the time, I heard a lot of people saying that this (as well as the drop boxes) was simply an oversight by the props department, but at the time I didn't really buy that. When they had a mortar trooper launching TDs in season 2 it kind of confirmed to me that the show-runners know exactly what they're doing. This appears to be a trooper who used their TD in combat. Additionally, if the drop boxes are in fact ammo boxes as we often refer to them as, who's to say they weren't used up as well? Even though we have missing accessories on screen, I think I'd still vote for them to be required elements of the complete costume. We just have to assume that the troopers in question saw combat and are depleted. I agree. I find it more likely that it was always intended to include this detail as evidence by the pre-production promo shots and now the reemergence of the lower "belt tab." These were likely broken off, or removed for fit and comfort. Speaking of... Look at the difference in kidney plate sizes. For years, we've said that the stormtroopers were approximately 6' 170 lb. persons. However, even though the majority of the troopers on set still appear to share this physic, the actors appear to have been able to select small, medium and large costumes. If you look at the first picture and compare it to the two Glen posted the plates came in a range of sizes. Also, going along with the crack in the shoulder, look at the crack in that first TK's posterior armor. This along with the large section missing from the thigh armor brings me back to that other thread where we were discussing flexible armor. The armor in these pics appear to be typical plastic, hence the breakage. Great catches Glen.

I'll start my updates by going down the list in order. First though, since we are going to be using this thread to capture New Generation armor requirements/ updates to the ROTK CRL, I'll add the New Generation helmet to the list with my suggested edits here: Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray, with a black pinstripe around the perimeter of the inner grey detail. Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines. Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black. Ears are raised from surrounding surface of helmet Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 8 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix mic tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior. and The tip is screen mesh, silver in color. screen mesh. Tears and traps may not be hand-painted. Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible. Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. Head opening has satin or matte black trim running all along the edge along its perimeter giving the appearance of the rubber trim present on OT helmets. Brow trim should be positioned 1/4" above the eyes and is painted in either satin or matte black.. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Only 12 tube stripes per side are allowed. The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 verticle tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. All black details on helmet are painted satin black. All grey details on helmet are painted satin grey. Ears are either made from separate pieces, or appear to be separate, attached to the side of the helmet, wrapping around the tubes, forming a well-defined seam along the entirety of its perimeter. The circular portion of the ears are raised approximately ½” (12.5 mm) from the side of the helmet with the lower “tail” wrapping around the tubes. The “tail” follows the contour of the tubes, growing to approximately 5/8” (16mm) at its peak, tapering down as it travels below the tubes. The painted detail of each tear is a separate raised piece designed to appear as follows: The bottom is a separate, raised black tear slightly larger than the gray piece it rests beneath. The gray piece, will match the black tear’s shape, but be slightly smaller creating the appearance of a black pinstripe, approximately 1mm in width, around the perimeter of the grey tear. The grey tear will include 8 hollowed out lines that allow the black layer underneath to show through, creating the appearance of vents. Hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The painted detail of each rear trap is a separate raised piece designed to appear as follows: The traps will consist of two separate raised details. The bottom will be a separate, raised black trapezoid slightly larger than the gray piece it rests beneath. The gray piece, will match the black trapezoid’s shape, but be slightly smaller creating the appearance of a black pinstripe, approximately 1mm in width, around the perimeter of the grey trap. The grey trap will include 13 hollowed out lines that allow the black layer underneath to show through, creating the appearance of vents. Hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The painted detail of each side trap is a separate raised piece designed to appear as follows: The side traps will consist of two separate raised details. The bottom will be a separate, raised black trapezoid slightly larger than the gray piece it rests beneath. The gray piece, will match the black trapezoid’s shape, but be slightly smaller creating the appearance of a black pinstripe, approximately 1mm in width, around the perimeter of the inner grey trap. Chin portion of helmet is either made from a separate piece, or appears to be mounted to the helmet separately from the face, giving the appearance of the well-defined seam present where the rounded portion of the chin mounts to the tubes. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. For each suggested edit, I ask that the person who creates the post also include a reference, preferably a high quality/ resolution picture or screen cap, with a detailed explanation for the suggested change. Please be respectful of each other's ideas Picture 1: Separate gray detail piece inside tear on top of separate black piece creating pinstripe around tears and traps. Picture 2: Ears are raised from surrounding surface and appear to be separate pieces creating a well-defined seam around ears. Picture 1-3: Satin black/ grey, not gloss or matte. Picture 4: Appearance of a separate chin creating well defined seam. Picture 5: Missing detail from rear trap showing that the grey inner detail is a separate piece. Picture 6: Appearance of rubber trim around neck opening and another shot of the separate chin.

Ok, almost immediately after posting that, I noticed that in the Remnant picture I included, the trooper is wearing a belt we haven't seen since the Rogue One promo shots. This was removed in pre-production for the film, but has apparently returned.

-- EDIT 08/31/2022-- Future Jason here, I just wanted to provide this colorful edit to help explain how I'm going to handle additions to this original post. Initially, I was striking out verbiage as it was written, then adding new text, but it was getting messy. I will continue using strike through text whenever I remove something from the existing CRL, but will follow that up with red text indicating the agreed upon change. Of note, I will try not to make any of these changes unless it's captured in this conversation, but I am receiving input from detachment leadership in addition to what's captured here. If anything ever appears in the CRL text below that a person does not recall discussing, please let us know so the discussion can continue. What I absolutely refuse to do is create ambiguous text, or what I refer to as a "moving target CRL." Any edits to my original post will be written in yellow so you can follow the changes easier; I will also date any revision/ edit. So again, CRL changes/ additions in red instructions/ original post edits in yellow. Thanks, TK-51923 Fellow TKs. After several discussions regarding the inclusion of Remnant Stormtroopers, as seen in The Mandalorian seasons 1 and 2 into the Databank, we have decided to move forward with the creation of a CRL. The goal in developing this thread is to create a CRL specific to the heavily weathered Remnants serving Werner Herzog's "The Client" as well as those seen in Season 2 episode 7 The Believer, working in the rhydonium refinery on the planet Morak. For previous discussion on this topic, please see the following thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48305-new-anthology-tk-crl/ Additionally, for reference, please see the following picture: Additionally, since we have several new references to draw from since the creation of the original Rogue One TK CRL and it's subsequent revision in 2020, this thread will also serve to address revisions to the current ROTK CRL and the potential creation of a separate CRL for the New Generation/ Anthology TK. Discussions are ongoing regarding how to handle this generation of TK armor that has become synonymous with the Anthology films and various Disney+ series. This includes the existing ROTK, which could be renamed, receive additional variations, remain unchanged, or none of the above. However, one item that has been emphasized to me from detachment staff is that we have to clearly show that this is a unique set of armor without stating "it's dirty." Additionally, we have found several instances in which items were either missing, broken, or taped together by the costume department for the respective productions; these discrepancies will not be included in any new CRL or revisions to existing CRLs. The goal of this thread is to identify the unique attributes of the costume that are uniform throughout all of it's appearances in Anthology films and Disney+ productions, not to capture broken or missing items. Things that will not be considered: broken thigh armor, drop boxes tucked into the thighs or missing altogether, missing TDs, and "$#1++y wardrobe dressing or stunt men with gaffer tape." I'm not going to say who's quote that was. With that said, we obviously have an ANH OT bucket resting atop Rogue One style armor. These are on prominent display, but there's other unique characteristics as well. This is our opportunity to post them up and start hashing out the details. Please take a look at the aforementioned thread, but I also intend on posting several of the pictures here. To get started, I will post the verbiage from our current ROTK CRL, and include the wording from the ANH Stunt helmet. I will continue updating everything as we go along and highlight any changes in red. Additionally, even though this isn't a New Generation/ Anthology CRL, we need to capture anything in the New Generation gear that hasn't been covered previously. If there's new things that have been discovered, please post them. Let's get started: Helmet Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece. Neck Seal Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck Under Suit Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Upper Arm (Bicep) Armor 8/31/2022 Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. The biceps are suspended from the shoulder armor via shock cord (bungee/ framilon cordage) via "J hooks" at the top of the biceps per the screen references. 8/31/2022 A separate piece of white 1" webbing or elastic, extends from the shoulder armor, through a slot in the bicep per the screen references. 8/31/2022 Forearm Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The front strip is bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Hand Plates Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gloves Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black in color, made of either rubber, Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall not be made of rubber. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. Chest Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Back Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Abdomen Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centred on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top 1/3 of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armour. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centred above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately 1/8” 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately 1/8” 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Move to "kidney armor" section. Cod Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate 8/31/2022 Removed from Level Two certification. Having this as a level 2 requirement instead of basic may lead people to use OT amor in constructing their kits or create abdominal/ cod pieces that are not accurate to any available references for this costume. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular kidney/ trauma plate. 8/31/2022 The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor and sits above the rear hard belt. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney/ trauma plate is large enough to cover the entire gap present in the rear of the abdominal armor and extends up underneath the back armor. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The kidney armor cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Posterior Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back front belt overlaps the front rear belt on the sides. 8/31/2022 There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1” 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have a trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The trapezoid detail is a triangular prism that has no rounded edges. 8/31/2022 The front belt protrudes past above all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately 1/8”-1/4” 3-6mm. The front belt protrudes approximately 1/2" below the front 4 ammo boxes in a trapezoidal shape that extends from the center of both medium sized ammo boxes where it tapers to 1/8"-1/4" (3-6mm) below the ammo boxes across the remaining span of the belt per the official references. 8/31/2022 All ammunition boxes, including the drop boxes, have slightly bevelled chamfered edges on the face of each box. 8/31/2022 Thermal Detonator Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3” 76mm in diameter and 8” 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼” 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately 1/8” 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is bevelled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. The thermal detonator is made separate from the mount and secured to it. 8/31/2022 I added this due to the number of instances in which we've seen the TD disconnected from it's mount or missing on screen. Similar to the belt boxes, the TD should be separate, but fixed to the mount appropriately as per the screen references. Thigh Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. 8/31/2022 Thigh armor has been seen several times separated (flexible) in the rear, but never worn in the same manner as the arms (bungee cords/ framilon cordage). Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. Rear cover strips will close outside over inside, i.e. left over right for the left thigh and Right over Left for the right thigh. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled chamfered at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1” 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle tri-glide buckle that is covered by black webbing fabric or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. 8/31/2022 Lower Leg Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster. The barrel detailing is evident with the cocking lever and slider in place. The ejection port is also evident. The scope mount looks similar to the magazine but smaller in size. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): E-22 Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. It has a extended stock attached at the rear and a extended front housing with second lower barrel. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on right side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders Scope is a M38 1943 version Scope rail is fitted onto rail blocks, one inside the rear sight and the other at the front end of the rail. There are 3 swivel studs fitted, one on the rear stock and one each side of the front barrel housing. Sling is 25mm webbing strap that is adjustable using a silver 25mm 3 fixed bar webbing buckle (optional). Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel or replica (optional). Red lights fitted on both sides of the rear housing, Hengstler fitted with a red light for the 3 forward tubes and 2 small red lights fitted into the rear barrel housing under the torch, the lights are permanent and are non flashing or pulsed (optional hero version only). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring) Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel. Pauldron Rogue One Pauldrons denote rank or mission specialization. The Rogue One Pauldron is specific to Rogue One and differs from the original trilogy in color and stitching. Original trilogy Pauldrons are not an authorized accessory for Rogue One armor. An Orange, white, or black ornament made of leather plastic or leather-like material, worn over the right shoulder. The Orange is specific to Rogue One and a different shade from the original trilogy. A red pauldron as seen in The Mandalorian Chapter 14, may be worn as part of the New Generation TK costume, but not as a Rogue One stormtrooper. 8/31/2022 The colored panel is divided into three sections by color matched stitching to conform to the wearers shoulder and has black piping around the outside edge. The remainder of the Pauldron is black and divided by black stitching into 10 segments. The neck closure is black and has two black snaps visible. There is a black elastic strap that runs from back to front and is worn under the bicep to hold the Pauldron in place. The strap is conned to the Pauldron on top by two black snaps inlayed in black “D” shaped leather or leather-like ends. The underside of the Pauldron is white regardless of top color and is divided with white stitching into 13 segments. The entire outside edge is finished with black piping and the underside of the neck closure is black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

@gwf2683 I'm glad you found this useful. Let me answer a few of your questions/ thoughts: Under normal circumstances, there's no issues, but you always want to check first. Here's the reason why: as a maker myself, I've already seen several of my items recreated and incorporated into someone's costume. I don't care if they want to try and honestly when they reach out to me, I typically walk them through the process. However, I've also seen people disassemble items I've sewn for them, create a pattern based off my work, then recreate a second one for themself. More often than not, the item they make isn't the same quality as the product I sold them, which is common due to the equipment they're using. In these cases, one of two things happen; either they take credit for something that started as my design (which is merely my take on Lucasfilm IP), or they throw my name out there like I made it for them. Typically when the later happens, I ask the costumer to identify that they actually attempted to emulate my work. However, many makers take it a little more personal. The other issue is that items from some makers are easily identifiable, such as the Akira Yuning parts you're using which would be recognized quickly if you were to recast them. Honestly, having worked with him at length on the design of my ROTK, I'm fairly confident that he likely wouldn't have a problem with you casting his files into something a little more durable than a 3D print. Honestly, he even gives customers permission to sell printed costumes using his files, just not the files themselves. However, even with this generous gesture, the General Terms and Conditions forbid reverse engineering of the product. The Buyer may not reverse engineer any Product and must abide by the terms of the license granted to the Buyer under this General Terms, as well as any additional Seller terms included with the Product. This includes adjusting files in blender, or Fusion 360. Again, this is one of those gray areas that I always clear up with the original designer first. A good example are the Sean Fields shoulder and shin buckles I remixed with his permission. Sean's one of those guys who if you ask, he'll even send you the original F360 Archive files. The last time he helped me out, I asked how I could repay him and his response was "just say nice things about me." With all that said, let me tie this to another one of your questions: Someone definitely got it right, but those files are going to cost you. This is the abdominal section of the Mr Paul's Shoretrooper Build file set: It is a near perfect representation of the screen used prop, but Paul is one of those people who definitely doesn't want you reproducing his files for absolutely anything other than personal use. Additionally, he put a lot of effort into the creation of these files and he doesn't want them altered. In Paul's Terms and Conditions he states: Modifying or altering the files is not permitted unless for personal fitting of the costume parts (e.g. scaling or expanding parts to fit your body size and shape). The files are not to be printed and made in to moulds for reproduction. But Paul's not alone; this verbiage is very common amongst designers. That's why for me personally, I don't even bother with it. However, there are several designers who openly welcome this type of work. I actually have licensing agreements with a few designers to mold and cast their accessories. A lot of the time, if you reach out to someone, they'll be willing to work with you. Your Armorsmith Avatar picture looks close. I know this is scaled to your proportions, but the sides look to be flaring out a little too much for this being in a closed position. Here's what I mean; In the reference photos, we often see the armor connected at the sides (closed) in close up shots. It's always tight to the body and almost flush with the abdominal armor. However, when the stunt actors are getting thrown about, the chest appears to be disconnected for comfort and range of movement. Here's a picture of an open chest: But here's how it should look in most other situation: And one from the side: So the way these wrap around the actor's waist is one of the reasons people think the armor is made of a flexible material. However, anyone who's felt Jim Tripon's armor can attest that his does the same thing. Again, the only armor set we have definitive evidence of being made of a "rubbery" material is the new Boba Fett kit as well as some evidence suggesting the FOTKs were as well. Here's a little thread from 2016. I've seen a few pictures of Cod armor bent in all kinds of weird ways and plenty of shots of ROTKs and FOTKs sitting down. Anyone who's tried to sit in standard ABS or fiberglass butt armor can tell you this isn't an easy task. However, so far, there's not anything definitive suggesting the ROTK armor was completely flexible. We've also seen it up close at multiple cons/ expos. I'm very familiar with most of these products. If someone were to create a complete set of armor similar to this, it would be great. But, just for your reference, here's me flexing my Jimiroquai kit: Jimi's is backed with fiberglass, but other than that, he's using something very similar. I'm a member of a Purge Trooper 2.0 build group and would encourage you to join one if you're interested in this costume. Currently, we're using the figure as a back-up reference, but there's other stuff that's been made available recently, as well as some valuable insight from the actor himself. I haven't checked in a while, so I'm not sure which Detachment will get this costume. The easy answer is the Clone Detachment, but I'd lean more towards this being a Spec Ops build. Finally, I know this picture is of the rear of the armor, but here's a screen used abdominal for your reference. In this pic, notice the difference in height from front to rear and how it swoops under the armpits: And while I'm throwing reference photos up here, look at the return edge under the chest armor. Just saying...

Geoffrey, So you've decided to 3D print a TK... I've said this a couple dozen times since 2020 and as much as it sounds like a good idea, you really have to know what you're getting into, especially since I recognize the files you're using. Immediately let me start by saying that if it sounds like I'm trying to talk you out of this, I'm not. That would make me ultra-hypocritical, seeing how I've got 4 approved 3D printed costumes and am currently working on my second 3DTK. Additionally, with people like @ChrisThePropGuy out there making 3d kits and using them as forms for his molded costumes, what you're proposing is viable; you just have to start with an accurate base. So, let me start off by reiterating some advice I was given when I did this 2 years ago, "take any feedback not as criticism, but as everyone trying to help you look your best!" This statement is absolutely true and has been proven to me countless times by individuals in the FISD. Also, this is the second time I've put it up here in the forum is as many days, so you know I believe it. With that said, if it starts to sound like I or others are saying your stuff is way off, it's because we're trying to help. Additionally, with the ROTK/ New Generation armor being set as the standard bearer for current and future SW productions, we're beginning to have countless high definition references to draw from. With so many references available, if a person starts going "off script" with their build, it's obvious almost immediately and those of us that take pride in the costume are likely going to attempt to steer you straight. Before I begin, I do want to let you know that the current CRL has the following requirement: The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Yes, many of the new costume pieces seen in production are created using flexible materials, but outside of Boba Fett's armor and a couple butt and cod armor pictures, we are still waiting for definitive evidence supporting its usage elsewhere. I've seen people post pictures of what they believe is "rubber armor," but more often than not, it ends up being the angle of the shot or a distorted picture. Not saying that it's not happening, just saying that there's nothing definitive with respect to the ROTK armor. Let's get started: Your abdominal armor is Akira Yuning's design and I believe the helmet face is DavidOs's V1 design. Here's my references: The helmet on the right was printed by another member. If you scanned these yourself and then started modeling in Blender, good on you, I stand corrected, but my first piece of advice would be to please contact the modelers before you start recasting their work; many of them don't want their work recast even for personal use. Personally, I have given away 3D designs and seen others "take them and run." I recently saw that one of our more notorious recasters stole my belt box design and started selling them as part of his recast Jimmiroquai kit. Additionally, several other vendors have copied my Din Djarin abdominal tasset research and work and are selling them off as their own. Am I going to pitch a fit? No, but it's one of those things that make me want to stop giving stuff away. I strongly believe in community over competition, so I do enjoy seeing work emulated, but you need to make sure you go about it the right way. Again, please don't take this wrong. If you designed this stuff yourself, I applaud you, but I would caution you that the other designers might not take it the same way because it's eerily close, even in how stuff mounts to their bases. Regardless of the case, let's fix the mistakes everyone's making and get you a great set of armor. I worked closely with Akira while I was building my first 3DTK and the abdominal armor was one of those pieces that he just stopped adjusting because it was going to be too much work. By the time I started seeing accurate screen used pieces and making requests to satisfy the requirements, he had already made approximately 30 changes to the set. Let me post a picture of Akira's work next to an accurate 3D model: So it's a lot different. First and foremost is the size of the files. In the next picture I've offset the Z axis to show you the difference when the belt lines are matched up and they're still insanely different. Besides the size of the abdominal armor, we also see distinct differences in the overall shape. Notice the gently sloping lines I highlighted in black on the accurate file. The Akira file consists of solely straight, flat lines that don't give any dimensional accuracy to the costume. I say that knowing fully that every maker out there is making their abdominal similar to Akira's in shape; this is what I refer to as the "tube abdominal." I really don't have any problem with the tube shaped abdominal section, but where it's missing the mark is with the overall dimensions of the details. Things like the vertical ribs and 70 degree side ribs are just much smaller/ narrower than an accurate design, which throws off the appearance of the greeblies which are not pictured. This also gives a very odd appearance that can't really be explained without comparing it to reference photos. Most GMLs won't notice it, but something just looks off. However, I will say that Akira's greeblies are excellent and something I'll likely use in future builds. However, if you follow his lead in your design, you may want to correct the shape of the front buttons which are significantly deeper than any references show. This picture might not do it justice, but they're deep. While it's on my mind, I've said a lot of times now that I made a ton of changes to my kit that I neglected to cover in my build thread. This was one of them that I corrected by lowering the edges in Fusion 360. Additionally, the tiny belt backer on the bottom of the abdominal is a huge discrepancy that doesn't seem like a big deal until you attempt to mount your front belt. The lack of any significant backer makes the belt tip forward and not line up at the top. Also, if this in fact Akira's file, don't even consider making his belt. I walked him through the entire thing, but in the end I ended up making my own out of HIPS. For the helmet face, I almost hate to say it, but you might want to consider scrapping this design. What kind of gives the face away as DavidOs's older bucket is the flat bridge of the "nose," the shallow "eye bags," the narrow cheeks, small overhang on the brow extending between the eyes, tall sockets, large flattened eye corners, and pointy cheek tubes. Also again, if you designed this yourself, you have my apology, but if this is the case, then you and David scanned the exact same reference. None of the above elements make the helmet bad, it just throws off the overall appearance of the helmet as a whole. Another helmet that has similar characteristics is the 850 Armor Works design pictured below side-by-side with a screen used helmet: The thing that's most prominent in the 850 helmet that throws off the overall design is the narrow cheeks which yours possesses as well. This in turn affects the ear placement and gives the helmet a thin face/ tall appearance that isn't present in the screen used version. Also, take note of the eye bags that are very shallow on the 850 kit which is similar to yours. The next thing I'd like to see you make changes to is the chest armor. There's another new member who is currently working on an 850 kit that uses a similar design and he's documented a lot of the frustrations he's had with the appearance of the armor. The big thing about this piece when compared to a screen used chest is that the accurate chest piece is actually very small. A lot of the new designs we're seeing, with the exception of the Jimmiroquai kit, have chests that more closely resemble OT armor rather than the ROTK appearance. Here's a SBS of a ROTK and an OT: So quick analyses of yours: The overall height appears to be too tall which causes the "pectoral details" to sit very low. This also shifts the sternum section down way too far. Also, the shape of the sternum is way off; it's too wide and the angles are far too sharp. Even when you set your molds, this won't be alleviated. This was one of the changes I asked Akira to make, but again, it was a lot of work. Next, the neck line is way too high which is one of the main issues with 850's kit. When you look at the New Generation kit straight on, even while wearing a helmet, you can see the neck seal. When the neck line is raised as it is in your print, your chin ends up overhanging the entire top of the chest piece which causes a sever "squatting" appearance. For my 3d kit, I cut all of this out. Next, and this is one that people keep overlooking, is the bell at the bottom of the chest piece. If you look at the screen used armor, this is very pronounced and has multiple curves, not just the one you see directly in front. In the following picture, look at the TK on the far left and note how his chest "swoops" from the apex of the pectoral detail down to the bell bottom. Also, note how much of a "swoop" there is from the far side all the way to the front. This isn't a gentle curve, but rather a very distinct, sharp rising curve. Here's another picture of a Remnant. Look at how narrow the chest is at the armpits and how high the pecks are as well as the bottom curve: Pay no attention to the helmet in this picture, the Remnant TKs had OT buckets. So, since you're early in the design phase, and while you're making changes in Blender, I would implore you to consider these known issues. Will they pass basic approval? Maybe... probably, but you said you wanted everything to be "squared away." Ultimately, several of these things may be overlooked by a GML or others, but the basic requirement for approval requires us to "consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume." Please continue posting updates. There's a lot of people who will likely take interest in your work.

Thanks for the reminder guys. Lol. I don't know why I keep doing this to myself, but at this point it's just become part of my costume building world. Even my 3 fiberglass kits get the treatment. Honestly, I don't even know what I'd do if I had a vacuum formed ABS kit.

Philip, Welcome aboard. If you ordered a complete suit from RS, you’re well on your way. While you’re here, feel free to ask as many questions as you can think of and be sure to share your progress when BBB (Big Brown Box) day is here. As you said over on the FB page, it does seem like there’s a lot to take in, but everyone here will be more than happy to help you navigate through everything. Welcome again!

Ok. More print updates. It's slowly coming together. Bicep: Simplify3D estimate 19 hours 11 minutes. Total Time 20 hours 50 minutes X 2 (left and right are essentially mirrored files). Of note, for the shoulders and biceps, I printed with a .4 nozzle at .15 layer height 50 mm/sec. Also, I forgot to take a picture of these on the build plate, but they turned out incredible. I wish I could print everything at .15 layer height, but it would probably take a year. Chest: Simplify3D estimate: 27 hours 45 minutes Total Time: 33 hours 24 minutes. I ended up with 1 layer shift, but it was near the top where the points are. I have since snapped these off, fixed the seam and glued them back on. Back Yoke: Ok. Here's the big one. As much as I'd like to say that this was a flawless print, I finally broke my streak of successful prints without a failure and had to start this thing a few times. Basically, I had the yoke printing for about 36 hours, hadn't checked on it in about 2, and was outside doing some yard work. While I was outside, I looked in the window to my print area and saw this: When I walked inside, I found this laying on the floor: So I tried continuing from where I experienced the failure, but I ended up having another failure which made me stop everything and try to figure out how I could go over a year without a single failed print, but then all of a sudden start experiencing them at a cyclic rate. I stated earlier in the build thread that I had a loose carriage that was causing horrible shifting in the layers. I fixed that, but didn't realize that the hot end itself was loose. This is another one of those things that should be checked before doing big prints, but the hot end is typically hidden behind the fan shroud, so unless you're actually feeling for it, you won't notice that there's an issue. Regardless, I tightened the piece and then had to decide whether to start from my original failure, or just suck it up and start over. I chose the later. Simplify3D estimate: 42 hours 30 minutes Total time: This was by far the biggest print I've ever done. Nearly 60 hours of printing at .3 layer height which I slowed to an absolute crawl of 37.5mm/ sec. By comparison, for those of you who watched my original 3DTK build back in 2020, I was printing PLA+ off at 180mm/sec. The fast prints led to me quickly creating pieces, but also led me to a ton of sanding and failures. It can be done, but I certainly don't advise it. Additionally, PETG isn't as forgiving as PLA and requires a little more finesse. However, you're rewarded in the end when you print with a higher quality material. I'm officially done with the gargantuan items. The thighs and shins will be big, but nothing compared to these beasts. So here's a few pics to show you the current status of the 3DTK 2.0 kit. : Chest and yoke. Yes, this will require a lot of sanding, but the chest was done before I found the loose hot end. Also, this armor is going to be especially easy to sand and finish due to it gentle curves and smooth surface. Additionally, if you look up to the top of the chest near the points, you can see that layer shift I spoke about earlier. Lol. Chest and arms day at the BigJasoni TK Gym. Finally, I wasn't going to start sharing finishing pics until later on, but I did plug away a little on the bucket a few nights ago while I was working on something else. I also got a new tool I feel every 3D print enthusiast should grab and honestly I felt like showing it off. First, more Bondo: Later on in this build, I'll share the photosynthetic resin technique I've started using, but for this helmet, I decided to go "old school" with the Bondo Spot and Glaze putty. This is the second layer I've hit it with; the first was covered previously. This bucket had a lot of layer lines from the loose CR-10 max parts, but also has a lot of detail lines I didn't want to get resin into. I'm not going to dump a bunch of sanding pics into this thread, but what you need to know is that I hit this with a mouse sander, then with my 3M Hookit Soft Interface Pad covered in 150 and 200 grit paper. More details about this sanding technique are found in page 3 of the Centurion From the Start WIP found here: Not sure why the Hengstler pic shows up when I put up this link. Lol. Anyways, the mouse sander and interface disc work perfect for the larger surfaces, but here's the new tool I'm so excited about: So, I'm able to read G Tool and Mr. Hobby, but that's about it. Basically, it's an electronic toothbrush with a sandpaper disc. Lol. Here's why it's useful: Previously, for these small areas, I've raided my wife's makeup drawer and stolen emery board fingernail files, but those are hit or miss when it comes down to grit. This tool has tons of available grit pads and can really get into those detail corners. Additionally the head flexes and the pads are backed with foam, so you're really not putting too much pressure on any part. Finally, it was only $20 US, so why not. Anyways, I'm making a push to finish the other kit and am letting my printers have a well earned break. I'll post a few more shots once I get going, but that's it for now. Thanks as always for viewing

Good morning everyone, 3D printing is something I have enjoyed both personally and professionally; it's now become a big hobby of mine. Ever since joining the FISD, and subsequently learning about this, the 3D contributor program is something I've been incredibly interested in. Needless to say, I was overjoyed to be nominated by @TheRascalKing a few months ago and would now like to repay the gesture by nominating a few of my own. First is @ChrisThePropGuy for his incredible OTTK file set. My understanding is that Chris initially created these files to serve as molds for his vacuum formed kit. However, Chris has continued to refine his set and recently released an update kit that appears to be incredibly accurate and ready to be built by someone aiming for legion approval. What I find especially admirable about Chris' work has been his willingness to refine his work based off community feedback and essentially rework items that I know he spent a great deal of time creating. The accuracy and availability of his work as well as his willingness to work with the greater community highlights his contributions. See his thread here: Next is @TheRascalKing for the awesome FOTK greeblie set he just made available to the community. Similar to what I had to say about Chris, Justin did an incredible job documenting the design journey he took with Mr. Poopie from the Pathfinder's Detachment. Constantly changing the design based off community feedback seemed to be a consistent theme, but ultimately, the final design was made available to members for free a few days ago and they're fantastic. The level of detail and care Justin took in designing these files is incredible. Any time you see someone making design changes and adjusting files that are measured in fractional milometers, the 3D community takes notice, as should anyone aiming at creating the most accurate version of a costume imaginable. Here's the finished product: But equally important is highlighting the design thread which can be found here: Ultimately, for both of these guys, when you read the criterion for nomination, I feel that they've far exceeded the requirements. Both made their designs/ files accessible, they've freely offered advice and have created an excellent end-item. Additionally, both have done an incredible job at creating detailed build threads showcasing their work and willingness to accept feedback as well as make changes to their designs based off resident expertise. Not only would I like to see these nominations solidified, but I would also suggest possibly adding a fifth nomination bullet that requires designers to show a willingness to adjust their work based off community feedback and be open/ receptive to said feedback. This is one of the reasons I admire the FISD above all other detachments. Additionally, I was offered the following advice a few years ago when I started my TK journey and have valued it ever since: "take any feedback not as criticism, but as everyone trying to help you look your best!" These 3d contributors appear to have made this their mantra and I personally feel that it should be expected from all who aim to contribute to the FISD community.

Bart, Welcome aboard. I wouldn’t worry too much about low local numbers, look for opportunities to make your Garrison known. I’m part of a large garrison, but since most of our members live near the metropolitan areas, my home town typically doesn’t get a lot of trooping opportunities. However, I just talk to people and am always pleasantly surprised to find that when organizations, businesses, charities, and other venues learn about us, “excited” is an understatement. Turns out that even one or two people wearing “plastic space armor” can change the entire atmosphere of an event. Additionally, this is how we grow; you’d be surprised how many people I meet that say “I have a full ___ costume, but didn’t know you guys were around here.” Last month I set up a small booth at a local convention and got to meet a Jawa and a Revan that said the same thing. So who knows, maybe you’ll end up being the spur for your local Garrison. Regarding your build, I do typically encourage people to build for their self, but I totally understand the full commission in your situation. However, I will say that you should still anticipate doing some work on your kit; maintenance and upgrades are just part of this life. Again, welcome aboard. We’re glad to have you here and excited to see your progress.

Also, the belt boxes are my updated files printed in the Siraya Tech Fast/ Tenacious mix resin. Please see this thread for the download link:

Is there a such thing as "costuming peer pressure?" If so, I'm highly susceptible. Thanks @TheRascalKing So it's been over a month since my last update, but that's not due to a lack of work being performed on this kit, but rather it's been due to some "exploratory" processes/ work I'm doing. However, I blame this extra work entirely on the aforementioned peer pressure. Ok, to be fair, it wasn't really "peer-pressure" but more like someone else saying "I'm thinking about doing this..." The problem with me is that when these kind of ideas are brought up in conversation, it actually feels like this: Lol. Here's my contribution to the FISD Memes. I'll get back to this in a couple minutes. For now, let me catch you all up on the last month. About a week ago I attended a squad armor party. While I didn't take too many pictures of all the different builds, I was able to snap a pic of this: So, while this doesn't have anything to do with my build, it's nice to see another TK getting ready to join the ranks. Knowing that I typically don't get much work done on my own kits during these events, I went in thinking that if I were only able to cut my thigh armor, then that would be enough progress for me to declare the armor party a success. I can't attest to this being an efficient method for cutting other kits, but for those prepping the Jimmiroquai armor, this seemed to be the easiest and safest way to finish the job. I took a small file and initially was just going to score the surface in order to facilitate my Dremel tool's cutting disc. However, after I made one pass, I noticed that the file had essentially created a small channel which allowed the file to pass through cleanly, removing a small amount of material with each pass. Rather than going with the Dremel or another blade that I'd inevitably cut myself with, I continued making passes with the file until the thigh opened up completely. Once open, I was left with a cut line that fell precisely inline with the thigh cover strip. This line was pretty clean by fiberglass standards. My larger file took care of the rough edges flawlessly. The only remnant left behind after cutting was this piece, which also got filed off easily: So, the first two pics are actually upside down, but when you compare it to the screen used reference found in the forum gallery (pictured below), it looks like Jimmy emulated the overlapping appearance in his design, while keeping the thigh in one piece. While this looks excellent, the thighs are a little big for me and had to be cut regardless. Also, it's just not the way it was done on film and is required per the CRL's EIB standards. Of note, notice how the little protruding tab I circled above appears somewhat in the below picture. This was not part of the armor's design, but rather a byproduct of my cut. Also, the sloppiness in the TK display's appearance was likely due to someone quickly setting it up and the fact that they put the costume on a tiny mannequin form. However, this picture does highlight how the thighs open and close in the rear. Additionally, we also have this picture that I posted back in 2020. The next thing I started to do kind of got my gears turning a little bit and sent me down a bit of a rabbit hole. If you go back in this thread, you'll see that I initially came up with the idea to print my arms because of the cover strips. Originally, I was only going to print my forearms, but when I saw how different the cover strips were between Paul and Jim's designs, it made me want to do the entire arm. But, this also made me a little nit-picky of the overall appearance of the armor's cover strips. For the most part, the screen used kits appear to have very clean, strips with sharp lines and details. Some of this is softened with the layers of paint, but knowing this, I've started cleaning the grooves and "sharpening" the lines with a file. But this also made me a little concerned about the shins. Now, looking at the following photo, though the shin strips are slightly narrowed, you can clearly see how the thigh and shin cover strips match very closely, but are slightly different. The most noticeable difference is how the center stripe detail in the shin is raised, while the same detail on the thigh is flush. This design element is screen accurate, but when viewed from the side, the shin's cover strip is incredibly bulky by comparison. Again, I believe this was an intentional design, which I applaud, but when I put on the shins, the overall appearance was off. I can't really explain it any better than that, but when you team up the thick cover strip, with the gap in the trim, the slightly misshapen "bell-bottoms," and my slightly larger calves, the overall appearance of the shins looked incredibly bulky on me. However, the Jimmiroquai shins fit around my legs perfectly, so I was tossed on the idea of changing anything. But the more I looked at the cover strip, the more I started questioning if there was a better way to finish them. Here's what I mean (please forgive me as I go all Shorey for a minute): This is the leg from my Shoretrooper kit And here they are side by side, and yes, those are Orca Bay Brecons. I bought a pair for my Shoretrooper and liked them so much, I bought another pair for everyday wear. Lol. I was already considering 3D printing the shin armor from my Shoretrooper kit, but kind of scrapped the idea because I didn't want to make cover strips or fool around with what I perceived as a large sniper knee. Additionally, the shins from Jim's kit actually fit me pretty good which was one of the biggest issues I've had with other builds. However, when I was at an armor party last weekend, the gap in the top trim of the shin armor was really starting to bug me: So I started considering the following options: 1. Live with the gap. This shouldn't be a concern for basic approval, due to the lack of guidance in the CRL for this particular part. However, this is "Centurion From the Start;" and the goal of this WIP is to show potential ROTKs how to build to that higher level starting on day one. Though there's no Centurion standards for the shin armor, that doesn't reflect what we've seen thus far. 2. Fill the gap. This would effectively close the entire front of the shin armor. Going back to my previous thought about Centurion level builds, I went directly to @11b30b4's thread since Jeff is still the lone Centurion ROTK, Considering that he closed his armor with PC-7, I decided that since our resident Centurion did, along with the gap being closed in the reference pics, then I should too. For example, here's two of the pics Justin shared with me from Celebration: The second picture is not of the shin armor, but it shows you how the cover strips are handled on this costume; closed entirely on one side and open on the other. 3. Print accurate shin armor and try to figure out the cover strips and knee plate later. Ultimately, even if this doesn't work, I can always use extra leg armor for my son's AT-ACT driver costume. However, as I said before, I dismissed this idea because I didn't want the extra work. Then, like clockwork, @TheRascalKing asks me about my 3D printed arms which led me to ask him what he did about the gap in his ROTK shin trim. This is where printed shins came back up. After we discussed a few of the things he saw at Celebration, we came to the conclusion that the knee armor in Paul's shoretrooper kit is accurate for the TK as well. These are from Celebration So again, the Shoretrooper has a very distinct strip on the front of their shins: This is the CRL pic. Now, if you imagine it without the straps and large strip, these are TK shins. But in order to get the correct cover strip, I needed to start tinkering around with Fusion 360 and this was the result: This turned into... This. Which led to... This. Which resulted in... This. From the side, the cover strips look far less bulky and even have the chamfered top that sits perfectly inline with the top trim: The big thing I tried to do was match the overall appearance of both makers, while also keeping the width close to Jim's thigh armor. Here's the shin with the thigh: Notice that the overall width is close, but still it's own unique size, which emulates the screen used armor. Additionally, when compared to Paul's cover strip, they're close enough in appearance that the differences won't be noticed. So that about wraps up my update for now, but I was finally able to grab 3 more cans of primer sealer today, so I should be getting a lot of parts sealed this weekend and ready for paint. So, as I go, let me dump a few more pics so I can show you what I'm up against this weekend: My hot end carriage was loose, which caused some insane layer shifts. Not good. Butt, cod, abdominal and back filled and needing to be sanded. As well as the kidney plate and belt boxes. Yes they're black... but I'll get to that later. So, as always, thanks for viewing.

Jeffry, Welcome aboard! I've gotta say, that's an awesome picture. I had to look at it a few times before I realized Krrsantan is standing directly behind you. I can't wait to see your builds.

Thanks Andrew. The figure collection is slowly growing, but I just realized that my TKs are on another shelf.

Lol. I had an awesome thread in draft, but I let my daughter play Roblox on my computer. When she was done, I came back and realized she closed my pages. Whatever, I'll save my long-winded musings for the other thread. Tonight I had two more prints finish up and one of them was the deciding factor if 3DTK 2.0 was going to continue or get scrapped. Also, I've decided that since this is another 3D print build, unlike last time, I'll actually post print times for everything so people get a better understanding of what they're up against. First, the shoulder bells: Total Time: 24 hours 18 minutes. Simplify3D estimate: 22 hours 32 minutes. Not much to say about these. I'll throw them over with the forearms and keep printing. Monday I posted the picture of the hot glue on the build plate, but totally forgot to mention what I was printing. Well, here it is: Total time: 46 hours 38 minutes. Simplify3d estimate: 38 hours 40 minutes. Abdominal armor is pretty much the sole reason I justified the purchase of the CR-10 Max a year ago. Thus far, I've printed 2 abdominal sections (Shoretrooper and At-ACT driver) in the same manner, as well as full chests and backs for multiple costumes. Nothing beats being able to print these in one piece. However, as you can see from the print, I had 3 layer shifts that kind of complicated matters a bit. Regardless of all the great things I've had to say about these files, I've been wavering on whether or not I want to go through with this build ever since I started it. Essentially, I traded some Mando armor I had lying around for a couple rolls of PETG, so of course, I had to print something and decided this was the thing I'd try. However, the abdominal section is by far the biggest piece, so I told myself that if it turned out bad, I'd cancel this project. Regardless of the layer shift, I was pretty happy about the end result. This is why we print in PETG. If this were PLA it would have snapped so fast. ABS has similar properties, but PETG allows you to work without having to enclose your printer. I might start printing armor in ABS later, but I just haven't felt the need to yet. The fit is pretty much perfect, but those stupid layer lines were still bugging me. So, the last thing I wanted to do is take a couple hours and just see if I could fix those errors. Ultimately, when I went out into the garage, I told myself that if it was looking like it was going to be more effort than it's worth, the build is off and I'm ordering a kit from Denuo Novo. Unfortunately, I was able to fix it. Lol. A little bondo and I guess this means the build continues.

From a fellow Muddy who also has a clean set of armor, welcome aboard.

So, I'm still trying to determine the best way to proceed with this build and the subsequent build thread. Honestly, I think I'm kind of at a loss because I swore that I would never 3D print another TK. However, this seems kind of fun and a nice little side project. Additionally, I said a few days ago that I talked a lot of people out of 3D TKs, but this one seems right. The reason I put it this way is because all of those people I talked to about 3D printing didn't leave with a sour taste in their mouth about the hobby, just the understanding that we're still waiting for a good set of files before I can recommend it as a worthwhile endeavor. I've even offered up a few resources/ costumes that are very fine candidates for 3D builders and shown them pictures of the kits I've gotten approved. The top two kits I consistently recommend are the Mr. Paul Shoretrooper and the Empire3D remix of Sean Fields' Mudtrooper/ ICAT Driver armor. Both of these kits are incredibly accurate in nearly every detail and don't require any additional "tinkering" in order to get them up to par. So why does this one "seem right?" Because from what I've seen in the files, and by comparing them to a fellow garrison member's Anovos gear, this file set seems to be in the same league as Paul's Shoretrooper. But out of respect for the creator, and because I haven't received his permission yet, I'm going to hold off on putting his name out there until I have their blessing. So for now, I've decided that I'm going to just start posting pictures of armor pieces as they come off the print bed. Once I have everything together, I'll start working this similar to any other build thread. Additionally, as I perform techniques I think might be useful for the greater 3D print community, or potential 3D TK prospects, I'll post them here. So for now, here's my first set of armor pieces (other than the helmet) and a technique: If you look closely at the picture you'll see a slightly yellowed, angled downwards stripe on both arms. On the right, this was the result of a layer shift that occurred because I had a loose hot end carriage. In order to fix this, I took a razor blade and scored the line that was left from the shift and snapped the arm in two pieces. I then sanded down both edges and used CA glue to seal them shut. The yellowing is from spraying accelerator on it. The left one was my fault entirely. I set my printer up last night and went to bed. When I woke up, I found the machine "air printing" because it had ran out of filament. I forgot that I had disabled my runout sensor and only left about 100g of filament on the spool. Oops. Regardless, I recorded the height at which it had stopped, exported the file from Simplify in the exact position I had originally sliced the file, opened it with Meshmixer and created a plane cut at that point. I then exported this file, loaded it into Simplify and let it finish printing. One thing to note is the obvious difference in layer lines between the two. The arm on the right was printed with a .4 nozzle @ .2 layer height, while the one on the left was printed at .15 layer. Needless to say, the one on the left is extremely smooth and will require very minimal prep. So here's the technique: I started printing the abdominal and this is going to be a huge two day print. So, once the first couple layers were down, I grabbed my hi-temp glue gun and laid a bead of glue around the perimeter in order to keep this thing adhered. I've done this a couple times now and it works great. Maybe a little unorthodox, but once you've got a few years of printing under your belt, you get a little more daring than most people. Lol. In the background of this pic, you can see my forearm finishing off. And the hot glue. By the way, I can't say enough good stuff about the Surebonder Cosplay Stik glue. This stuff is incredible and rivals some of the best stuff I've tried. I've now switched entirely over to the Cosplay Stik glue in any instance that I would have used E6000 previously. So there you have it. I'll keep posting update pics as prints finish. Currently on the print beds are the abdominal armor (printing on the CR-10 Max) and the shoulder bells (CR-10S). On deck are the back yoke and chest piece (CR-10 Max), and the biceps on the CR-10S. Once I have my resin printers back up and running, I'll start cranking out greeblies. Now later this week, I'll have some awesome updates in the Centurion From the Start Build Thread. Thanks for viewing

Perfect Matt, thanks. I think I have seen your posts on the SLD forum. I'll send you a PM. I can't wait to see your build start taking shape, but just hit me up if you decide to go the ROTK route instead.

Matt, Welcome aboard. I recently started grabbing stuff for a ESB Vader build, so I know where to go to when I run into issues. Lol. Sounds like you have a plan, so that's awesome. You'll find incredible help here as well as tons of guys in SoCal who will gladly help you on your way. We're definitely glad to have you here.

Sebastian, Having your armor painted professionally is a great option, but there's pros and cons you need to consider. First, Jim's fiberglass is incredibly easy to finish and paint. The pulls do have their flaws, but it's nothing extraordinary and stuff that's common to fiberglass, i.e. pinholes. Honestly, all it takes to prepare an excellent surface is a small tube of glaze and spot putty and a can of sandable primer. Trust me, trimming the armor is way more difficult than painting this kit. Next, if you get the kit painted professionally, they will use a 2k (2 component) paint. This is great because the paint has a hardened finish and isn't prone to damaging the same as 1k rattle can. The paint job always looks superior and holds up incredibly well to the bumping and banging we're all prone to. Think about how durable a car finish is. The problem is repairing the paint when it does get damaged. Think about the touch up kits they sell at Autozone; the paint might be the same color, but it never has the same finish and touch ups stick out. Fixing professional paint jobs typically takes a professional painter. Now, I say this knowing that I am planning on painting my own armor with 2k paint. Several of us have done this and I think most people are pleased with the results. However there's another option that provides you the ease of rattle can painting with the durability of a 2k finish and that's simply using a 2K clear. You can actually paint your armor with Rustoleum, Dupli Color etc. then grab a can of Spray Max or Eastwood 2k clear and give it a phenomenal finish. Here's a great video showing how this is done. This video has some great prep instructions, but if you don't want to watch that, just fast forward to 8:36. Also, you can ignore the part where he tests the Dupli-Color clear, the 2K Clear part starts at 15:42. Justin @TheRascalKing painted his armor similarly using Rustoleum 2X paint and Spray Max 2k clear. The Spray Max clear is incredible and while I try not to "endorse" any specific product, it costs about $10 per can less than the Eastwood and I can't tell the difference. This reminds me of my final point about paint; professional jobs have professional prices. You might be able to talk a small paint shop into doing this for you "on the cheap," but it'll likely still cost you more than doing the work yourself. Yes, they'll typically do a better job than what we can do in our garage, but not always. Professional paint jobs are great and look incredible, but a lot of this is simply the product they're using and those products are now being made available to the general public in rattle can form. If I could, every one of my armor kits would be painted this way, but, I've had to fix armor on the fly way too many times to justify the cost. Ultimately I think you'd be happy either way.

--EDIT-- October 9th 2022: Future Jason here... I always seem to do these "future Jason" post edits, but it's because I continuously shift gears in my builds. Regardless, this initially began as a 3D print build, but I decided that I didn't want to go that route. Additionally, I'm trying to get away from doing full 3D armor builds unless it's a set that specifically benefits from being 3D printed. I do intend on leaving my initial posts up here however, because I know there may be future builders who feel the 3D route is in their best interest and this may come in useful. I have decided to finish the helmet though. It's turning out pretty good and even if I do pick up an older Anovos helmet off eBay for this build, I'm seeing a few benefits in using the 3D bucket, specifically, knowing that I don't have to disassemble this helmet for paint. It's already disassembled. Next, though I'm getting away from full armor 3D kits, I'm not giving up the hobby. With a great set of files, you can actually 3D print extra parts, i.e. shoulder bells, that would otherwise cost a lot to order separately. Additionally, since I'm talking about great file sets, I will say that this one is insanely good. People keep asking me for the designer's name, but the maker has since pulled his stuff in order to take care of some personal items. When he makes his stuff available again, I will openly promote his gear; it's that good. Regardless, I've rambled long enough. So, if you'd like to see what's up, skip ahead a bit. Basically, I officially ordered the Denuo Novo set on Friday, October 7th with the goal of officially putting the "I still don't trust them" conversation to rest. I will update this post again when I get my BBB and start over from there. Until then, here's the original posts: Why do I do this? I promise this to all of you: I'm not a masochist. I don't enjoy filling layer lines and fighting with misprints. Additionally, I proved last time that it's not financially beneficial to go this route. As a matter of fact, following The BigJasoni's ROTK 3D Print Build Thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49826-the-bigjasonis-rotk-3d-print-build-thread/ I received a ton of messages from people wanting to do the same thing and I talked all of them out of it. So why, in the middle of 7 other builds, would I start this project??? Why not? So, while I finish my New Generation/ Remnant TK, Deathtrooper, Shoretrooper, Pre-Beskar and Beskar Mando, Darth Nihilis, and Tusken Raider, I'll let the printer run... slowly. I'll be updating the Centurion From the Start build thread in the next couple days and when I do, I'll throw a few things up here, but this is going to be a ton of work. Thanks @Sly11 for pointing me towards an incredible maker and some unbelievable files. Here we go.

Oh nice... He recast my belt boxes. Well, that tells us he's on the forum.