TheSweatshop

yeah pretty much every next piece that's in the print queue, next will be back plate. I am currently working on modifying the PPC chest to be much closer.

Just finished adjusting some Akira ones to give them a chance for better comparison, and got the new image set up as well.

Currently working on this comparison. After posting the photos, I’m gonna go back in and adjust angles to give them their best chance at comparison to the real deal. One that seems to stand out is PewPewCrafts. I was under the impression that because he outputs so much so quickly that it wouldn’t be the most accurate, I seem to be wrong. Lining up these photos has shown me that his work is incredibly close, but missing some final polish. Especially on this current photo, it’s uncanny how close it is. After sitting with these comparisons, I’m confident that I may be able to tweak PPC’s model and improve it. I’ve done some remodeling that I will post about soon once the new parts are printed.

Here are some comparison shots, there is definitely some perspective vs orthographic issues when doing a comparison like this, but I think it shows well the differences. I'm definitely surprised at the outcomes but I want to see what y'all think @BigJasoni @TKModder421 @gmrhodes13

My guess upon first look is that it's likely gonna fill out most if not all of the missing parts of my kit. It's the only kit I've seen that has some of the details only seen on Mr Paul's set.

I'm working on making some comparison photos of various armor sets, I have PewPewCrafts, Akira Yumings, and SciFiHeaven/AlainRivard's sets to compare. Is there any other sets worth adding to the mix for comparing Chest, Back, Cod, Butt, or Thighs to assemble the closest mix? @BigJasoni @TKModder421 @gmrhodes13

I’ve been printing a lot while out of state for a work contract, I’ve updated the first post, organized and put the current status of Armor parts. I’ve continually tweaked my print settings and I’m happy with how it’s looking, I’m still not so sure about the helmet since I have to split parts and I am worried about them lining up for the glue up, particularly warping depending on print orientation. Current finishing plan is to pretty closely follow @OddViking327’s video on finishing 3D prints. YouTube- Finishing 3D prints - Filling and sanding print lines for props One step I’m changing though is to start with a coat or two of UV resin for the initial fill and make a barrier between the ABS and Bondo/Acetone slurry. I’m not sure it would effect the ABS as it looks like it dries super fast but I am playing safe, and also hoping that UV resin will add to the armors lifetime durability. Raw print The UV resin I’m brushing on. One cured coat 2 cured coats One caution I’m running into is that the way I had it sitting with sloped edges pointing downwards, it’s nearly imperceptible while I’m working but the resin wanted to pool near edges. After curing it you can see and feel a raised bump around the edge. Something to be careful of, likely easily sanded flat again but it’s something. You can see it better when the UV flashlight is on it like in this picture. darker edge means it’s thicker

That’s exactly what I’m running including paver stone. Also planning and getting Bambulabs P1S, will likely run both since my prusa has been treating me kind lately. Still kinda holding out for a possible new Bambulabs printer announcement.

Made some progress. I’ve got a job out of state but I brought my printer along and have afternoons off to work on my armor. I kept the printer running all week. I’m printing in ABS. I know some people have difficulty printing ABS due to warping but so far with my enclosure I’ve been having success. My printer is a Prusa MK2.5S with a IKEA enclosure. I print at .15mm layer height but I also have been taking advantage of Variable Layer Height to squeeze out detail and print time. I’m printing at 15% infill and it seems super light but pretty damn durable and flexes well. I glued them up with an ABS juice of ABS and acetone, mostly being acetone but I’m adding more ABS supports to see what mixture works best. The actual alignment went spectacular to my surprise. I also did a test fit. Only the outside edges of the belt tabs were having trouble but I bowed the abs by using filament boxes as spacers in the back gap and it made the difference to get those last tabs to set up. Currently printing Nico’s Modified Helmet from @TKModder421 so stay tuned for that glue up as well.

I have Yuming and PewPewCrafts as well. I'm also looking at Alain Rivard / SciFiHeaven's Files via @DavidF's build. I'll also probably buy Galactic Armory's set as I'm a fan anyways. Anyways, I'm starting with Mr. Paul's Abdomen, I'll also likely use his arms and shins.

Hello There! I've been lurking awhile now but just got tickets to Star Wars Celebration in Japan so it's time to start my build with a hard deadline. I bought a kit from 850Armorworks ages ago, but since lurking for so long, I've decided to try to achieve a higher level of accuracy and put my 3D printers to work. Armor Parts Helmet - Printed but not fully satisfied with print settings Nico Henderson Etsy via DesertFareCosplay https://www.etsy.com/listing/784808040/rogue-one-stormtroopersolo-mimban Updated files TKModder421 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/53406-modifying-the-nico-helmet/ Shoulder Straps - TBD Shoulder Armor - Printed Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Upper Arm Armor - Printed Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Forearm Armor - Printed Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Hand Plates - Printed and coated w/ UV resin Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Chest Armor - TBD Back Armor - TBD Abdomen Armor - Printed and coated w/ UV resin Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Cod Armor - TBD Kidney Armor - Printed Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Posterior Armor - TBD Belt - TBD Thermal Detonator - TBD Thigh Armor - TBD Lower Leg Armor - Printed Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/the-files/ Soft Parts Neck Seal Keep Trooping/Imperial Boots https://keeptrooping.com/ Under Suit Keep Trooping/Imperial Boots https://keeptrooping.com/ Gloves Keep Trooping/Imperial Boots https://keeptrooping.com/ Boots Keep Trooping/Imperial Boots https://keeptrooping.com/ Optional Accessories E-11 Blaster S&T Full Metal Custom Sterling Airsoft AEG SMG with Heat Sink and Scope BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Denix MG 34 Machinegun - Non-Firing Replica Pauldron Star Wars Rogue One: Shoulder Pauldron Deathtrooper Stormtrooper https://www.etsy.com/shop/TrooperbayShop

This. There are a handful of companies already making these gloves. Whichever company decides to make other colors first will likely get the bulk of sales for people making this costume. If I was working on it, I’d keep bothering those companies until they decide to make them and then we can all praise them here and in the other groups.

is this picture tiny for everyone else, I can't read the label.

Great idea checking the model. I’m curious what the Clone undersuit is like in game. I’ll have to rip it when I get home.

@TKModder421 DM sent about file link expiring.

Now that you mention it, I bet they took some parts from the scrap pile from previous productions. No use making new kits and breaking them if they might already have a bin full damaged parts.

There’s a lot going on with Enoch here. Chest sits lower, bottom is trimmed close to the sternum groove. I’m curious if the straps have more ribs to compensate and if the back is as modified as the front is.

Sounds good. I’d love to see the tutorial/build thread. I’d appreciate a tag to notify me when if it happens. I think I’ll try industrial straight stitch but at a different width as clone under armor, at least before live action looked like wider ribbing. I’ll need to do some research before deciding the width. Might get lucky and even make a build thread myself.

I’m assuming Dave recommends using an industrial machine over a home machine. I have both but I can see the benefit of using a double needle.

He taught you how to do the ribbed stitching? I have a KT undersuit and could likely reverse engineer how they did it, but if an experienced stitcher wants to give me some tips, it’d be welcome. I’m looking to attempt a vertical ribbing for a clone undersuit.

Going back to your initial posts about wanting a bit of weathering as it is scene on screen. I think aiming for “level 4” accuracy shouldn’t get you docked points if it’s outside the CRL but you did it based off screen used with evidence given to the judge. A level higher in accuracy shouldn’t put you in level 2 because “that’s the rules”. Maybe “Level 4” is just an appeal process to not get dinged on Level 3 admissions. Shouldn’t get a F, for passing the test AND doing extra credit. I get that the extra credit could be done after passing level 3, which seems to be recommended often. But I think that would discourage documentation of those additions in the application process, additions that benefit the community.

Since a lot of people are stitch counters in this hobby, I feel like it’d be useful to separate the levels into Level 1 - Acceptable Level 2 - Ideal Level 3 - Screen Accurate doesn’t really make sense to have level 3 the final level when people like @wp1945 and myself on the R1TK want to achieve beyond clean.

I feel like a test is worth doing with the same Tear/Trap color 1138 gray matte paint. As far as I can see it looks like the traps look to match the “unpainted” gray parts of those troopers. Partially weathered but looks to me the same base.

@TKModder421 been following this build, have you talked to Nico about releasing your mods?

I plan on doing a run once I have a successful cast. I’m resin printing my mold but I it came out warped so I need to get an accurate print and then sand and prep it to make sure the castings come out glossy. As far as accuracy I’d just say look at the gallery photos for R1 and remnant screen used armor and count the ribs. Most straps I’ve seen have far too many ribs. I’ve done a similar process to determine accurate dimensions for straps as I did for these handguards. You could wait for my run, but if you end up making your own, please put your research here because I’d like to see if we come to the same conclusion design wise.