Helotech

I tried finding appropriate scopes online and in local sports stores, but nothing was available or right for the job. Wanna sell one of yours?

Hello again! I got everything glued together except the two side grip panels. I have to look in my hardware selection for screws to attach panels to frame and scope clamp screws. The files Glen provided are AWESOME and very detailed, but I did note some discrepancies to the movie prop: When I was gluing the scope rings and scope onto the mount, I had a pain of a time trying to achieve the proper overhang at the rear of blaster, as well as how far forward the scope sits over the body. Basically, front of scope should sit roughly in line with front of magazine well. I went back to the Reference page in this forum and found the picture which stated movie prop scope is approx 11" long. my printed scope is about 10.5". I had not resized it, so the 3D file scope is slightly small. Printed scope looks thicker than the movie prop. Not a huge deal and the clamps fir properly. If you thin the scope then you would need shims inside the scope rings, or you would have to resize the rings and the scope base plate for everything to fit. The 3D file (picture below) shows that both the scope clamps sit behind the zeroing towers (little dials) and the dial base on top of scope. On movie prop the clamps sit just forward and just behind the towers. The 3D file has the adjustment towers pointing straight up and to the left. On movie prop scope is rotated to have towers pointed up and towards the right. I mounted mine the correct way. On the left side of the frame, just behind the magazine housing, is a small lever. On the real Rexim SMG this is the magazine release. Just behind the lever is a small indented circle. On some pics of actual SMG, the Star Wars blaster, and the pistol used in Aliens (yes, the same gun is used in this movie) the indent is there. In other pics it isn't. I'm not sure what the definitive answer is. The 3D print comes with a small coking handle on right hand side blaster. This is not on the movie prop so you don't have to glue the part in. 3D file, full assembly pic: If you have a large enough printer you can do this in all one go. Note the scope thickness, clamp locations and scope overhang front and rear. Movie prop: Note the thinness of scope, the appropriate overhangs front and rear, as well as the scope ring locations. My print: Once again, note all the items I've mentioned. I didn't want to reprint a new scope, but maybe on my second print (LOL) I will make sure everything is good. I went for a mid-line compromise and I think it looks the part. On this shot you can still see the slightly cracked rear cap. I'm attempting to glue this closed, but it will remain on for now. Next step is to use a basic grey rattle can primer to check for major cracks or gaps I have to fill. I'll refill, sand, prime again, then comes the decision of main body colour. Satin black as per movie prop, or the dark smoke grey of a real gun with satin black handgrips? I will also cut out some clear plastic sheet to replicate scope glass. I'll probably tint it red to add visual interest.

Thanks Jonas! After a quick solo trooping patrol through my neighbourhood with die-hard SW kid who lives across the street, I will be sanding and gluing some parts while watching a SW film.

Printed 3 pieces and they turned out well. Endcap, Mag housing, mag plate, and the little circle that will fit into end cap drain hole. When you add holes to pieces in Chitubox program, it asks if you want to keep the "removed" piece. These are useful to refill the hole once printed. Endcap with hole plug. As you may be able to tell, this endcap has what looks like golf dimples on the surface. I printed this straight up and down instead of angled. I'm thinking there may not have been enough supports. I may not use this as the old end plug has not cracked or warped any further. I left the barrel assembly outside in the sun all day, so hopefully its cured LOL The old cracked end plug can be repaired by me simply pushed in on the slightly raised /cracked portion and flowing in some superglue. New magazine housing and plate. The mag well is much beefier with 5mm walls and much larger rinse / drain holes. Bottom hole of mag well. It will be covered by bottom plate. You can see the beefed up thickness inside. So, still some sanding and washing to do before attaching to the barrel assembly. I haven't reprinted the very front portion of the frame assembly. I MAY be able to clamp everything together and glue along the split seams. If this doesn't work I will saw the frame in front of the trigger guard and reprint. Oh fun....

Resin's not too hard to work with, just a learning curve. It is also surprisingly cheap. I may actually get a second larger printer to do this kind of stuff so I don't have to split large pieces. I'm finding the software and general info easy to learn. The very fine details are really worth it. I've already printed tiny parts for my model making hobby such as 1/35 milk crates, coolers, chainsaws. Just fantastic! I've started redoing the files and am just slicing the pieces in Chitubox. Will start printing this afternoon. Fingers crossed!

Ya. Definitely a learning experience. This is my first large scale print and everything, minus small parts, was printed hollow to save resin. I'll have to look at my 3D files, but the walls are maybe 2 or 3 mm thick as suggested in 3D forums. As you can see from the small grey circles, I do put drain openings in. I guess they are not large enough to let the alcohol enter and rinse properly. The holes are anywhere from 2 to 4 mm diameter. I use an Elegoo Mercury Plus washing and curing station. The black resin is "Water Washable". This doesn't mean you are to rinse items in a sink and let it pour down the drain. That is super bad for environment. It basically means you don't have to use alcohol. To keep things simple, I used 99% alcohol for everything. I rinse items about 5 minutes for larger pieces. These are simple placed inside the curing machine tub, and there is a little spinner that creates a circular current that washes most of the resin away. You let part drain, then switch machine to curing mode. I couldn't find any info (even from Elegoo) about what cure times you should use. I only did about 5 minutes total. So, my takeaway: Create larger openings where able: For example; the magazine housing comes in two pieces. The main large box and a thin base plate (you can see it peeled away in the photo). For the next print I will create a large rectangular opening on the bottom of the magazine housing, leaving enough of a lip to attach the base plate. Anywhere I can't do this I will place the largest holes possible and accept that I have lots of filling to do. Rinse better: A person on a 3D forum says he uses a syringe filled with alcohol or water (when resin allows this) to pump cleaning fluid through the parts. Since the cure station tub holds dirty used alcohol (it is expensive...) after the initial "spin cycle" rinse I will fill another storage tub with water and let it soak and rinse in there. Same forums suggested that leaving parts soaking in 99% for too long can also cause damage to parts. Remove internal supports when able: On same forum someone suggested not using internal supports if able. The supports and structure cure at different rates, causing the warping and cracking. They may also prevent rinsing fluid from circulating properly. Make sidewalls thicker: Helps beef up structure and reduce warping. Elegoo comment to a forum question was 4mm. Downside is more resin is used, but it is better than wasting a big print. Research cure times: For some reason, I think leaving a piece in the UV machine for 10 minutes will cause it to burst into flames LOL If I can swing the time this weekend I will try and reprint. I won't get blaster done by Empire day next week, but it may get done by the time we move in middle of June. Stay tuned all!!!

Oh horror of horrors!!! My SE-14 is slowly exploding Last night I finally managed to sand everything, wash and dry and was assembling. I noticed that the front of the main grip felt a little soft, but didn't think anything of it. Then this morning: And my magazine housing did the same slightly. I read up on line that this is most likely due to uncured resin trapped inside. It may take a while for it to expand etc, and can cause this. So the magazine wasn't to bad, but split along one corner. I decided to rinse it out with water through the small gap. I came back a few minutes later and it was much worse!!!: I felt the support sprues that were left inside and they were still soft and pliable. So basically uncured. It's weird as the parts have been sitting for weeks. Either I didn't rinse properly and /or didn't cure the parts enough. I think that I may have reactivated the resin somehow as I rinsed today. I then noticed that the back end cap on main body has started to split. I felt the knurling and where it was rock hard before it is soft and squishy around the entire circumference: I'm now waiting for the entire thing to blow up. Hopefully not. I hope the main body doesn't go as it is basically sanded and ready to prime. This might have been a colossal waste of resin and time. Unfortunately I won't have time to reprint everything before the big move.

Hey Jonas! Hope all is well over there. My DLT was put on hold because of the electronics issues. I finally received the DLT and E11 electronics about 3 weeks ago from TRamp in the UK. He is AWESOME BTW. In the meantime I have found out that we are moving across country again (yay for the military!!!) this summer. It will be a long 2 week trip. Canada is great but freakin huge. About 7500 kms door to door. Anyways, we had to by a new home in Gander, Newfoundland (just google it LOL) virtually, and just sold our home here in BC yesterday. Needless to say the projects were all put on hold for a few weeks. That’s why I started this up. I wanted a quick build and paint to feel like I accomplished something. I’m hoping to have this done for May 4th. Maybe a photo shoot with the SE-14 recreating the original publicity shots?

Thanks Glen! Unfortunately, there won't be electronics in this gun. Maybe the next one? Some quick progress. Glued some parts on barrel halves and joined main frame front and back with trigger. Front barrel with magazine housing: Main frame halves joined, with stock adapter (?) attached at rear bottom frame: There is some minor warping and a bit of an unsightly seam at the front / rear join area due to my printing inexperience, Easy enough to fill and sand: Those little dimples are left over from removing the support trees. Not sure how to minimize this in the future, but I'm learning. These are easy enough to fill and sand smooth. Separate barrel assemblies temporarily placed on the frame so I can say "Pew pew".... Will be filling seams with putty and leaving to dry for a couple days. Stay tuned!

I finally managed to print off all the SE-14R pieces. Thanks to Glenn again for the files. Was printed a while ago but we're in the middle of selling our home for a big move cross country (again...), so the pics had to wait. I also had an issue with the print of the main barrel/ body, so had to reprint that main piece. Overall pieces: I have a smaller resin printer (Elegoo Mars 2 Pro) so I had to split the main barrel/body in half, as well as the grip frame where it meets the trigger guard. The grey stuff is model putty. Until I had the settings correct on my printer I had some minor surface flaws that needed filling. I'm still debating the colours to use, but may go the same route as my DLT-19 build: Tire rubber / charcoal black (more of a sooty grey colour) for the main body, with semi gloss/satin black for the grips and scope. This will provide some visual interest. Will only do minor weathering and scratching. Grips. Barrel opening. The knurling is amazing! Close up of some parts. That's all for now. Hopefully it won't take long for assembly and painting. Cheers!

Does anyone now the length of a real MG34 cocking handle tube? Basically, how far it sticks out of gun from the receiver. Diameter of the handle would be helpful as well. My attempts at scratch building one using pipe above aren't working. I was going to attempt a 3D printed one. Other news I've started printing the SE-14 with the awesome files from Glen! I'll be starting a post on that blaster forum page. I have all the small parts done. Next is the main grip housing and barrel / body. Yet more news: My Blast FX electronics were fixed and are hopefully shipped from UK. Once they get here I will pull the big blaster out of the closet and try to finish it off.

Okey dokey

First off, sorry to highjack this thread with all the awesome helo talk.... We'll do it in PM. Glen, Any reason why the stl. files are doubled for each piece? Thanks

Hey Jonas!!! Ya, I can't wait to get his thing done and off my build desk. This, plus 2 E11's. a ton of plastic models, a brand new 3D printer to learn about, has got my hobby mental level maxed out! I was going to start on a scout, which is by far my favorite Trooper, but after watching Mando the wife turns to me and says "Why don't you make a Boba outfit?" After I laughed I asked "seriously?" and she said YUP! Sooooooo....... I have started the research, joined the Bounty Hunters guild, and have started ordering (small things for now) parts. This will be a long labor of love, but I'm going for and ESB Boba build!!!

Ouch! Unarmed in something green...... LOL. Were you a tech? That's how I started in RCAF. AVN Technician on Bell 412's. I hear ya. I'm turning 49 soon and every time I fly on our helicopters and hoist I feel OOOOOLLLLLLLDDDDDDDDDDDD File Downloaded. Not going to print and sell at all. Don't wanna get in that game. Once I get everything done I'll print it off and have and post it here. Cheers Glen!

Thanks! Still lots to do. Once it’s done I have a couple 3D printed E11’s to assemble. One will get the other Blast FX kit installed. I will then build a blaster “charging” and storage rack for display similar to one in security room on the DS. I will make it a multipurpose SE-14 / E11 / DLT charging station. With the 3D printed SE-14 I just got the files for, I will have a nice little arsenal. Pew pew!!!

I wish we had OH-58’s!!! We have next to no recon or attack capability. I’m a Warrant Officer in the RCAF. Flight Engineer on CH-149 Cormorants, currently flying SAR in BC. No, not my regular uniform....

I hear ya. I'm turning 49 soon and every time I fly on our helicopters and hoist I feel OOOOOLLLLLLLDDDDDDDDDDDD File Downloaded. Not going to print and sell at all. Don't wanna get in that game. Once I get everything done I'll print it off and have and post it here. Cheers Glen!

Okay, so I just realized it's almost exactly a year since I started this thread. Time for an update I guess.... I think I am about 80% done. Since posting, the world went to crap and I moved across the country and started a new job in the RCAF. Lots happening. I'll post a ton of pics here about the DLT. A few points: I'm trying to decide where to place the displays supplied in the BlastFx kit. The scope and rounds remaining displays. I don't like the round counter displayed on the bottom of gun as this doesn't seem logical. I may go my own way and install it on the back of the left side "aluminum box" with scope display so that it faces the shooter. Makes more sense to me. I have painted and assembled most items. I was installing the BlastFx elextronics and a few wire solder connections to components snapped. I think the overall quality is pretty freakin fantastic, but the wires are very thin and while trying to manipulate components into the blaster the connections failed. I soldered the items, but then some weird electronic stuff started happening. I got in contact with TRamp (fantastic service!) and after lots of back and forth troubleshooting, I sent my DLT and E11 components back to him in the UK. He is working on the stuff now, so the build is on hold. After a ton of research on the DLT and looking at pics of actual MG34's, I decided to upgrade much of the hard ware to make the blaster look more realistic. The hardware provided by 3Dprops is very functional, but not "real world" accurate A side note about the 3D props hardware: He does provide a schematic, but it is very hard to discern where each bolt, screw washer or nut goes. Better diagrams or instructions are required. Having spent DAYS and WEEKS looking at MG34's and other blaster builds, I can say that this kit is fantastic! Very accurate dimensionally and in detail. Another knit-pick is the bipod build-up. The bipod is split halfway up, and an aluminum plate is used as a joining plate on the inside between the two parts. I have glued this various ways and it has failed at least 3 times on one leg. It is attached now but there is a hairline crack between the two parts. Sanding and filling is required, with the obvious sanding and repaint. Build notes: I sanded like crazy, and used primer / filler rattle cans between sanding. Primed with 2 to 3 layers of black rattle can. There are Several different colours for MG34's, depending on quality, restoration, year made, etc. I didn't want a flat black, so repainted most components with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black. A very dark charcoal colour. Looks much better. I'm going easy on weathering. This is meant to replicate a blaster used on the Death Star Garrison, not in a swamp or desert. I mainly used the well known limited photos of the screen used DLT. Highlights and various scratches were done with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum and XF-56 Metallic Grey. I used graphite powder lightly rubbed along big flat surfaces to show wear and add visual interest. It was rubbed heavily on some corners, and also used on the two rings that join the receiver to the butt. Butt was sprayed with rattle can Rustoleum Satin Dark Walnut to replicate the bakelight material. I then sponged some lighter buff and black colour on it. The barrel T-strips will be replace by WannaWanga items. They are excellent quality and I won't need to sand like a madman... Overall pieces Wannawanga strips on right Front assembly; Wire is from barrel LED flash emitter. I asked TRAmp to install a connector and split wire in two. This way I can break down the DLT for transport. Barrel cooling jacket and barrel will be glued the front after feeding wire through. Replaced bipod attachment hardware with more accurate bolt and split pin. There is a bit of scratched paint on washer from using tools to bend pin. This will be touched up along with those little areas of orange plastic showing through LED emitter The front site is moveable (pivots up and down) as well Weathering Bipod legs Darn bipod crack.... Feed cover. Replaced hardware with more screen accurate. I cur off the head of a large lag bolt and glued on opening latch. Lots of sanding to get rid of 3D print lines Receiver: Hairspray method for chipping Rear sight moveable Extended peep sight. Numbers will be painted in. Receiver bottom. Main support tube is PVC pipe. I cut holes in bottom for easy wiring access to trigger wires. Will be cleaned up. Top view into receiver, towards the butt end. I cut the PVC pipe to have a big area for wiring and eventually a battery pack for everything. I kept a small piece of the PVC and re-glued it back in. This tab will eventually hold a magnet that will be used to secure the back of the feed cover. Reciever was printed in 2 parts, front and back. This is the seem line that I filled but then cracked. Will need to fill and repaint... Recover and cover pivoted up Cover just sitting down on receiver. A little force is used to squeeze two parts together. This is where the magnet will hopefully work. I also scribed the grip marks on the latch Butt colour. This is actually a little lighter. Dark colour due to lighting. Over exposed to show colour variations Sanded print lines smooth, then scribed the gripping grooves. Also drilled a hole and inserted the head of a lag bolt. Hole to be cleaned up. Note the 2 rings. These was simply done by masking the butt and receiver, then applying the graphite powder and buffing like crazy. Now looks like a separate metal piece. Less exposed pic Partially assembled. This is how far blaster will break down for transport. Sanded disk smooth, and used hairspray technique to weather. Supplied cocking handle with bolt. Can be unscrewed for storage and transport. It is way too short and thin. To attempt to make it bigger I started gluing plastic sheet on it. I bought a toilet repair pipe at Home Depot that looked like right thickness. This will slip over the supplied piece and get glued together. I have to figure out a way to do knurling. Barrel shroud Some hardware to replace supplied stuff. The small pack of screw posts will be used to replicate the domed screws on grips. And from when I first got the blaster. I have no clue what the part, 2nd from left, is or where it fits. It is the oval with hole drilled. Once again, the assembly instructions are lacking.

Is there anything you can't do Glen? This is Awesome! I was also wondering why no-one did the curved handles. I just bought a resin 3D printer and haven't printed anything yet. This may be 2nd after a bunch of baby yoda's for family members... The quality should be great on my resin printer. Just to confirm, can I download this and print for my own use? I don't mind downloading and paying for files (going rate is about $25), but some don't include scope (easy to find a real one apparently) and as stated, the handles are flat. I won't use this for trooping. Just for poops and giggles factor.

Anyone know the actual length of the SE-14R? I am looking for files to 3D print this blaster, but they are all stating different lengths. Some of the file state they are for the 1/6 toy figure. But when I try and scale up the actual length it doesn't make sense. From the pic above with the scope length (approx 11"), the overall length looks in the ballpark of about 12.5"? The files also don't seem to have the greeblies on the left side of blaster. Anyone have a direct link to a very good 3D file for purchase? Cheers!

Hmmmmmm. Weird. My SDS came with the aluminum securing straps screwed on. However, they were wrong size and shape. I know SDS sells different versions / detail levels of the armor, so maybe this came with one of those? But on their website all the TD's look to have the aluminum strap. Do you know how old this armor is? Maybe they changed it in the production run at some point? You have a few options: You can replace the entire tube with ABS or similar pipe if you find right diameter. You can simply fill the holes with ABS paste, sand smooth, and repaint the the TD. Remove the "button" detail plate and reposition it to cover holes.

Hey! You are off to a good start. Lastly, you have a bit of flared-trooper butt going on . The front corners of posterior plate are flared out slightly and are overlapping the belt. Easy to fix.

Hey Thomas! Welcome ! If you have any questions about the SDS don’t hesitate to contact myself or Jonas (LEGO). The suit can be made into very nice armor with about the same or less work than other suits. It’s put together already! I have some extra hardware I may be able to send you. Just let me know. good luck! Dave

Glen, as always, you are awesome! Buckets off to you! Some links I had found in forums were broken. I'm going to dig out my iPod and put some sound loops together over my XMas leave. See how they sound in the Icomm