liquorbetter

Thanks for this... it is helping me immensely!

Looks awesome... I've picked up quite a few tips from this!

Here is the forearm fix and build up. I added a thicker backplate and bonded it to the forearm with abs paste. I added a thinner exterior piec of armor scrap of abs to the top. this thinner piece still had the protective plastic. I them seam welded with more abs paste. The added benefit of leaving the exterior plastic was quick cleanup and less paste left over to sand. The paste doesn't bond to the protective sheet. While this wasn't initially planned, I really liked how this accident turned out! It is definitely beefier and should hold up much better for extended durability.

Sounds good, I will go that route. If need be I can always build up later. For now, it will be time for filling the recesses and evening it out. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent… I wouldn’t have thought about adding the dish soap. I have grit going up to 2000. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On top of that, the abs pull was very very thin where that "cut" is. It was definitely good to cut it out and ad a few layers to toughen it up.

Here is the seam ridge dilemma. It looks noticeable to me. I have no issue adding more paste to even it out or is the goal to simply hide the seam?

Here is the abs pasting of the Ab section after a couple of layers.

Here is the Ab section glued together. I used devcon. It was still pretty flexible when cured. Next up some initial abs pasting.

Here is the result of some sanding for the chest details. It was pretty thin and didn't take too long. A little more cleanup and they will look nice.

Aye, it’s going to be a process. Thanks for the tips! The ab section presents its own challenge. I’ll post some more pics shortly. It seems there is quite a bit of a ledge left after initial seam fill. It seems quite noticeable to me, and probably will be more noticeable when it is all polished and shined. My question will be, how far out I feather the paste to level it out or if that is even necessary? Thanks, Alan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Painted the resin greeblies and boxes with Behr Gloss White.. 3 coats. I did wash them the day before painting even though they did come primed/painted.

And here comes the first "fix"... I forgot about the proper cut on the forearms for TLJ, I did the Finn cut... Time to test out the ABS paste.... Good practice!

Let the fun begin.... Armor Party aftermath..... Dry fit after sanding the torso in prep for bonding.

Greetings! I've been here waiting ever since I ordered the Anovos FOTK back in 2018. It finally arrived a few months ago. I recently went to an Armor party held by the FL Garrison Everglades squad, met a lot of great people and went to town on my kit! While I work on this kit, I'll do what I can as a Handler. This will be my first kit going for 501st approval. The List.. Hard Parts Armor - DN FOTK Helmet - DN Standard ABS. Replacement padding - TBD. Electronics - TBD Blaster - 3d printed TFA f11d from 5th horseman files.. printed 2018. Electronics - TBD Soft Parts Gaskets - Currently inside out DN, will be modified for correct exterior surface and tailoring Belt - DN Neck Seal - TBD Undersuit - Black one piece dive skin, may get shiny shorts or the extreme racing stormtrooper suit Boots - Planning on IB Gloves - Planning on Endor Finders Pouches - Small DN and Custom large sized properly Other items considered are shoulder brackets, while I like the metal ones I've seen, I am considering something that has some flex to it. I don't plan on changing the holster unless I see a need for the se44 blaster. I also plan on purchasing the black chest fabric and gaffers tape for the chest box and other cutouts. Thanks, Alan