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FN1313

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by FN1313

  1. I can probably bring them in just a smidge
  2. Finished building my Belts of the First Order belt today. Just needed some more CA glue to help. I forgot to take better documentation pictures as I was so excited to get another thing done, but what I did was I used some strips of industrial strength velcro, punched a 5mm hole in the center of them. I then pushed the female end of the Chicago screws through these holes. I had removed the plastic adhesive cover and then put some CA glue on the adhesive as well. After that I attached those to the two front boxes and let sit to cure. For the side boxes though I did take some pictures. So I punched two 5mm holes in the nylon strips provided and pulled the elastic string through. (As indicated in the instructions) I then used CA glue to attach these to the the back of the boxes as well. As you can see in the first picture I attached the side boxes lower than the front boxes (the picture doesn't show it as nicely, but they are supposed to be a little lower on the belt) And I tested the fit and look with the cod and butt plate alone: Above: you can see the side ammo packs sit lower.
  3. I also forgot to post pictures of this finished beauty. Only thing this bucket is missing (but soon won't be) is a nice audio system.
  4. More updates. Had a good time this weekend doing some more work. Got the belt boxes ready to go for attaching to the belt. Just need to go get some more CA glue to finish getting them added to the belt. Painted the chest piece And used spot filler putty on the ab plate and yoke. Holy crap that's a lot of spot filler. I noticed I was having issues with the extended front piece on the yoke in putting it on and taking it off with risk of too much stretch and cracking around the shoulders. Because of this I opted to do some trimming of the front piece so I can get it on and off easier while still having enough to use the magnet method I had setup. So much better now. So from here I'm going to finish the belt, and then I will clear coat/wax the chest piece in a day or so after it's cured. The remaining bits to do are just sanding down the spot filler putty with 600 grit, then painting the rest of the components. Attaching the velcro to the spots I need to and the gaffer's tape on the insides. Here's to hoping I've got it ready for approval process to start some time next week give or take. Hope to be approved before my garrison's next troop in a few weeks.
  5. Considering nothing has shipped and it’s already almost August I’m sure things will be on track for another delay. The helmets were already delayed to fall and Anovos always seems to be faster with helmets then armor kits. I think its quite apparent aren’t that we can’t rely on anything they say at this point. I still will keep my helmet on order though. I like my Jim bucket, but think the Anovos one will just be a bit more accurate.
  6. More pictures = more progress. So here we go. I took the lid of a Plastidip can and cut it down in size to match TLJ TD end cap. I used some CA glue to glue it into place on the end of the TD before I sand down and prime again. Not shown in this picture. I also used some spot putty to close the seams from the cap and the TD so it's a continuous piece. Then it was on to more paint: The wind did actually lift the box and throw a lot of the armor while wet, so I had to wet sand down to smooth again and then do it over again. These pictures are after that happened. Finally I applied the jim kit decals I got from trooperbay onto the hand plates now that they are fully cured with the enamel. Get some time off tomorrow so I will do some more work. Can't wait to enamel what I have done next Monday.
  7. Thanks! It took a lot of work to get things to this point, but the payoff is oh so sweet.
  8. Alright. Now that I'm more secure on knowing how to use this paint and clear coat here's my most recent update: Finished up the Helmet. Letting it dry/cure and next Monday will enamel it (I'm giving it more than 3 days just because it's a real pain so I'm being more cautious with it.) I will also work on painting a few other parts so I can enamel them all next Monday. Oh so pretty. Can't wait to clear coat and get it smoother and prettier.
  9. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44940-fn1313s-jimmiroqaui-fotk-armor-build/
  10. Update time! So I stuck with the Rustoleum 2x for my paint to see if I could get it to work by better following the instructions on the cans. I had previously sprayed my hand plates and knee plates with two coats of the 2x gloss white. It covered really well even with lighter coatings of spray so I didn't really need more than two coats. From here I let this sit over the weekend (three days exactly) while I worked on filling spots on the rest of the armor components. Here's a visual representation of what you might be dealing with when filling spots. It seemed scary that I had that much to cover, but to be honest the spot filler is only going to make the parts smoother and more beautiful, so definitely use this as an opportunity to get very picky about what you are filling. I've found in some of my first runs filling spots I've actually missed some areas that I've gone back over and covered so I could have better outcomes. The best ways I've found to actually find where to cover are first, to use a well lit area or have a light close and nearby while you look from many angles. This will point out the little areas to cover. Next after you've filled, let sit for 24 hours, and then wet sanded back down with 600 grit. If you can't see anything, prime it again. This will either prove you've covered what you intended and are ready to paint, or that you have missed some spots. Again, take your time with this. It will prove worth it in the long run. Now from here I had let the previously painted pieces sit over the weekend and cure for a good 72 hours. I yesterday decided to take the risk again and use the enamel clear coat. And it worked out just fine. So I think I'm good to say that with Rustoleum 2x if you give yourself a good 72 hours before clear coat you shouldn't have the awful paint destruction like I had when I first did my helmet. Here's the results: Finally, I started the white paint on two more pieces that I had filled, primed and sanded. Their turn to cure for 72 hours. Forgive all the random messes. I'm using a lot of old plastic containers and all to rest the dried armor on just in case so I don't get it all over the house. I don't have very much room to store these in a garage or so at the moment. More to come!
  11. Jimmi definitely does have a great kit. It is fiberglass, but I will be honest with you, I've never worked with any kit before. My Jim kit for TLJ was my first kit ever and it hasn't been too bad of a build it's had some things. Really as long as you have good sources and guides you can build it just fine. You can check out my build thread for an idea of what you'll be working with.
  12. I'd go with Jimmiroquai right now. KB is dealing with backorders still and Anovos, who knows when. There's also 850 armorworks, but I don't know much about working with them. Haven't heard bad things. I just recommend Jimmi as he's quick, reliable, and detailed armor. His V5 kit he just produced is very good.
  13. I bought this off of Amazon. Removed the bolts on the sides and then used CA glue to attache the strap to the top of my helmet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RIFGE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 From there I used some green foam padding around the outside of this and between my head and the strap I glued.
  14. Yeah I’ve been wet sanding it down before I do another layer of primer. Then after that I’ve gone to the white paint. I love how smooth the wet sanded armor feels!
  15. Alright, another quick update. I just got some spot filler for all the pock mark holes on this armor. Been working on filling them in. Because I wanted to test out the enamel on the rustoleum after a good time of letting it sit and cure (all weekend at least) I got the hand and knee plates ready for painting as well and did the white paint coating on them. Here are pictures. So now just waiting for the armor pieces to dry, test enamel and if it works right I'm going to then finish this project up. Also I'm videoing this so I can have some videos to view. Those will take some time to get available though.
  16. I also have read with rustoleum 2x to try putting the clear coat on 30 minutes after the last color coat. That way it cures with the coat instead of peeling it away. Either that or wait a few weeks. What I'm going to do is test this with a large piece of plastic and see if that 30 minute method works. I also got a new camera recently so I will be sure to video the process for future users if this works.
  17. Okay, I'm putting this here to remind me as I've been so busy recently, but tonight I'm going to sand down the Bondo'ed sections and then start priming the rest of the armor components. I hope to prep things to the point that I can paint again this weekend.
  18. Yeah good info. Generally it has been quite dry and warm being in Utah, but it just happened to be the one wrong day that messed it up lol.
  19. A'ight. Got an update so far. First off. Helmet paint. I had weather come through and I think I sprayed enamel too early and it cracked...thus I had to strip and sand and start over. I fully sanded all armor pieces from 100 to 220 to 320 grit so they are ready for priming. I also primed the chest piece. I wanted to do a test fit with my rigging now sewn together. So I also did plastidip on the shoulders to prevent scratching here's my harness/snap system. the next pictures show how it was before I updated the snaps in this picture. As I mentioned I updated my snaps so that the ab plate sits higher, thus raising the TD under the back plate too. The shoulders sit great, Just have to pull the biceps up a little higher and then they don't swallow the shoulder bells. Finally I used Bondo on the areas that had some rough patches so I can soon sand it down to smooth. Taking a brief break now because I've got some other things I'm busy with for a few nights. But soon I will finish sanding and start priming everything. I've also opted with painting to paint it all in white first. Probably 6+ coats of light spraying instead of light spray, medium, heavy. I will from there detail the black spots with paint and give it a good 3-5+ days of curing and all before enamel again. I've been told that this is good as this lets it fully cure and get the gasses out of the paint before that enamel. However if anyone has better ideas on how to solid coat/clear coat that rustoleum 2x so it doesn't crack on me, I'm up for ideas.
  20. I’ve got my harness done with the gaskets, so tomorrow I’m going to figure out the last snaps for the thighs, then test wear the armor. Got some sanding to do going forward now.
  21. That’s what I’m going to do next. Some bad weather hit right after I sprayed enamel and it cracked real bad all over. So I had to spend the day sanding down to bones and repainting the primer... this time though...hopefully all goes better.
  22. You wanted them, WE GOT THEM! PICTURES! Alright first I worked on the strapping system for the codpiece and the butt plate. Essentially I've got some 1 inch Nylon webbing and marine snaps that hold things together. The magnets don't do anything, they just are solidly glued. I have open snap spots just in case I decide at some point I need more straps. I did the same snap method for the butt plate and cod piece. The TD is only held on right now with the plastic hook I created on top. Then I was in a rut waiting on my harness system to get sewed. So I worked on the helmet: Wet sanded with 600 grit on the primer and taped up. Wrapping up the work on the helmet while waiting. After the harness is done I can finalize snaps and then get working on the rest.
  23. Good info. I too am following.
  24. Small update. I've been very busy the past few nights, so only had time to do this. I will get the other rigging photos tonight as I finish the snaps and get going on sanding. I installed the welder's mask liner with some CA glue and then padded the top and the sides with this lovely green padding stuff. This way it fits perfectly as well as isn't bobblehead trooper. Soon, gentlemen, soon
  25. Dang, that must have been a really impolite person. JK, Thanks! I hope to get a good build thread for everyone and have it done soon. Where I stand there's just a few snaps to setup on the armor and then from there it's sanding, priming and painting.
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