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FN1313

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by FN1313

  1. Looks like you went with the nylon strapping mounts too. I found they’d likely be easier to work on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. KIDNEY I forgot the kidney section. There’s not a ton I needed to do for the Kidney, but I did trim about 1/2 inch off each side for fitting first. I also trimmed a 20mm X 20mm square at the bottom After that notch cut out I needed to trim the posterior to match up with that edge. The posterior also looks better after this trimming. I added some strengthening ABS on the interior edges like I did the abdomen and matched up the 3 split rivets that are on the left hand side. You can also see my initial rigging snaps being installed At this point the armor should be ready. I’m going to detail the rigging part in the previous rigging section. Male snaps have been added to the opposite side now and the strapping done.
  3. STRAPPING AND RIGGING Now that everything is pretty much trimmed and setup ready to go I’m starting the strapping and rigging process. First I’m doing the bicep retention strap on the shoulder bells. I took a 3/4 inch wide elastic and measured two 240mm length strips. This gave me an inch or so on each side to glue down into place at the bottom of the shoulder bell. Next I’ll start working on the biceps to the arms. I also have started the gluing of the 3/4 inch straps to the inner forearms. Took a bit for me to get some more e6000 but I glued the biceps to the forearms with the elastic I also added the male snap nylon to the internals of the thighs in prep for the elastic to hold to the belt. I then added the first nylon snap to the posterior. For the abdomen and kidney I’ve got the male snaps on the interior installed to both sides of the abdomen: And started on the kidney to match up to the abdomen. From here I will attach the snaps to the other side of the kidney and then start working the snaps to the posterior. I’ve attached the snaps to the other side of the kidney and built the interior elastic strapping. As you see on the right side I only used on snap on the front, this because It’s more difficult to pull apart and put together two snaps, where this is the side that I will be using to get in and out I found one snap was sufficient. On the left hand side though I have the double snaps for the strong longevity I also rigged up the elastic for the thighs to the belt. The belt I got was a nylon belt with one of those toothy buckles off amazon. Those tend to hold really well and it was pretty heavy duty. The belt holds up great and the thighs are staying set pretty effectively. I still might consider some heavy duty suspenders to use with the belt, but for now I think it’s pretty solid. Finally I started the male snaps on the right side of the posterior. I’ve now up to this point finished the male posterior snaps on the posterior and the corresponding snaps on the kidney. On the kidney I had the male snaps up about 1-2cm for the purpose of not fighting the curve near the bottom and giving a little extra elastic mobility room. I then attached the male snap nylon to the top of the kidney in prep to connect the back armor plate. The back armor plate also had corresponding snaps glued into place Tomorrow I will be able to get the elastic rigging for that part of the clamshell done. At the same time as all of this I glued the bicep to shoulder bell elastic into place So the only part remaining for the arms is the elastic from the shoulder to the under shoulder bridge connection. updates coming
  4. I have two supervisors, the one you see is the lazy one.
  5. Here’s a general idea of my leg armor. The shins done have rear closure method done yet as I need a sewing machine for the elastic to not fray, but I will work on that tonight along with belt drop box elastic. That’s why the shins look larger because they are loose in the back.
  6. That’s actually the before picture I did take more from around the neck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Good work on the belt. I’m just waiting to get access to a sewing machine to sew some of the elastic parts. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. I marked out the abdomen side holes for the split rivets. 20mm from top and bottom edge and 10mm in, then the midway point between the two was about 64.5mm how do these marks look before I drill holes?
  9. CHEST AND BACK Being as both of these pieces are part of each other and don’t have as much work as other pieces I figured I’d combine the build section for them. First I did some return edge trimming. The chest didn’t have tons of return edge needing lots of trimming, but I do do some better return edge cleanup around the shoulders and neckline before after I will do more once I can get some of the rigging together so I can figure out where things line up for the shoulder bridges later. To add some support for the shoulder bridges I’ve trimmed out two pieces of plastic the same size as the bridges. I used a heat gun to then bend at the point the bridges aren’t connected to the chest piece. Then I heated up the rest to bend into a curve like the shoulder bridge. I then glued the strips around the curved areas to the shoulder bridges and didn’t glue the bent part as that will be glued after to the chest armor. I have clamps holding the curved parts together while they cure. I will then glue the rest to the chest tomorrow.
  10. I know it’s likely overkill to ask considering this thread indicates there’s little to no return edge on armor. Return Edges 101 (OTTK) https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=44557&share_tid=48166&url=https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/48166-Return-Edges-101-%28OTTK%29&share_type=t&link_source=app But before I trim anything, should I and how much return edge is okay to remove from the back and chest? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Added some black abs strips 20mm wide on the inside edges of the abdomen for strength reinforcement as well as strength for the split rivets that will go there. I’ll do the same on the kidney edges as well after I’ve measured again to know how much to trim off.
  12. Updates for today (links to sections have been updated in the opening post of my build thread to make it easier to find them. I mounted the holster to the belt. finished the rear cover strips of the shins got the thighs pretty much ready for rigging And as you can see above I got the Thermal Detonator in the works. I’ve also made progress on the abdomen, the button panels are done curing to the abdomen and the Han snap and bottom split rivet are in place. I’ve added the two male snaps to the posterior armor. Busy day, but good work.
  13. THERMAL DETONATOR After researching I found the TD should be 7.5 inches wide roughly when complete. Each of the end caps should be about 0.75 inch wide. The middle panel should be 4.75 inches wide. With that being noted I knew I needed to do some trimming. So I marked the widths first. Make sure to mark from the right side and trim off the left side of the panel. Obvious, but still just in case mark from the outside and trim from the inside. The curvature of the pieces was way to much for me to bother doing score and snap. I mean it’s not impossible, but I’d rather be a beach trooper hoofing it on Hoth during a snowstorm with no Tauntaun for shelter than try score and snap method when I have a Dremel tool with a cutting blade. So I used that to trim After sanding here’s the pieces and measurements. At this point I then marked the midway point of the grey tube (3.75 inches) and then marked the middle point of the panel (2.375 inches or easier to find with mm than inches so 60mm). I then lined up the mid points. Marked the area around the panel on the tube and sanded the area as well as the inside of the panel for better paint grip. Using e6000 I coated the inner panel and lined it up with the midway marks I put. I used double magnets on inside of tube and outside of panel as well as blue tape to hold the panel in place while it sets. To be continued. Now that the panel is glued in place I glued the end caps on. The air pressure inside wanted to push the caps outward so plenty of blue tape to hold the caps tight. https://i.imgur.com/g3LzpKL.jpg Once the caps were cured I then marked the drill holes for the metal mounting brackets. I did this by placing the edge next to the bottom of the panel and against the cap. Marked the holes. I then drilled a 3/32 drill hole into each one and used the provided screws to screw the brackets into place. thermal detonator is complete (minus painting the screws black.) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Had a quick question on trimming the shoulder bridge area. I’ve noticed there’s a lot more length on these pieces and I almost have them touching each other when wearing. I plan on better sizing and checking before I trim, but assuming that things remain as is, would I be safe to trim this length? Also before I start strapping the inside of parts, what is the better material to hold the snaps to the armor, nylon webbing or abs pieces? I’ve seen both and am curious what would be the better/stronger/longer lasting material? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Question on the holster location. Is there a set distance it needs to be from the side of the plastic or can it go back a little further. I ask because if you look at my belt placement if I had it close to the return edge it seems like it might actually sit a little too far forward in my opinion. If there’s some leeway on that I could have it attached like this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I updated the build process for my abdomen in the abdomen section previously, But here’s some update photos for those who don’t want to scroll and read. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. One saying I’ve said many times is “Don’t be a hero.” No need to over exert or try to go longer just because. Take time to rest and hydrate. Especially for long troops. If you have spotters or staff keep them informed, train them to regularly do the thumbs up check (if they don’t do it). That is every 10 minutes or so they go to all the troopers establish eye contact and thumbs up. If the trooper returns a thumbs up they go to the next. Be honest and give a thumbs down or sideways if need be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I had to fill a hole with abs paste because my Han snap was a little too far in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. At first they looked a little like that, but after comparing them both with my canvas belt I didn’t see much difference myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I had to trim mine down from the top as well 5’10” I basically ended up trimming almost 2.5 inches, but I’d recommend doing half an inch at a time to see where things are until you get close enough then trim less each time until it’s just right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Of course! Glad to help and looking forward to the progress. Great work thus far! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. With snaps installed on the abdomen and the belt I was able to test out the belt sitting with the kidney armor too. Based on where it sits and the Velcro in the rear it also seems I’ll be able to trim maybe .5 inches of kidney armor on each side. Though I’ll have to better measure before doing so. I’m working to trim out the button pieces for the abdomen as well so that I can glue those down and get the abdomen one step closer to being done. Side note double check before you clamp set your snaps on the belt. It’s a pain in the a— to remove them after. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Your 10mm lines looked good. The bottom lines looked good to me if you decided to go that route. That’s how I trimmed mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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