LTM

Did he eat to much of ABS hashbrowns or the loss of the shop shirt has left him listless and unable to build? Inquiring minds want to know

Gluing the flexible handplate to the rubber glove (my hands are going to sweat something fierce). Nomex will be the replacement in the future.

Drop box should be 15mm deep, so I need to trim the boxes. Easy way to get a level mark is to place it on a level surface and using something to elevate the marking tool of choice, rotate the box while keeping the marking tool in place. Nice level line.

Hot water bath time to correct the left side before I add shim material.

Hey Sean, I'm in the same boat at 6'1" 194 and with the WTF. Can you do a couple more compare shots between the two, you have me interested in the AM now...

For the thighs, do I want it somewhat loose on all sides (able to fit a finger in) and then use strapping and foam to get it to sit correctly? Asking this now as I will need to add to the back (maybe an inch or two) to get it loose.

Ok, everything is taped at this point with rough trimming of the back joints. Couple of issues, the seam from thighs to shin is not straight, maybe bow legs? Should I try to add to the outside of the left leg to bring it more inline with the shin? Also the tops of the thighs are different in shape (height), is this normal for a screen accurate suit? Adjusted the thighs some to bring the tops more in line with each other, but the seam not lining up is not looking correct... I switched the shin from right to left, the seam seems closer (maybe all this is a fitting/strapping issue?)

Remove all the top return, or just in the back?

Pictures of the flexible hand guard just laying on top of the glove Move it closer so it overhangs the knuckles a little? On to thighs. I thought I might have to add to the back of the thigh, but once I clean up the back line looks like my right thigh will be ok. Still need to clean up the cut line

Two questions: 1. Drop boxes are 15mm in depth (mine look large/deep compared to other pictures) 2. I have Joseph's flexible handguards, does the edge go to the front of knuckles on the rubber glove?

How did you get your measurements for cutting out the ammo pack, with WTF it is just a strip with no markings. Also, how has the low profile velcro been holding up? thanks, Lou

Sorry to read that. I have the same kit and struggle for pictures to help build. For me with assembling two different sized calves is just not going to look correct. If the legs were correct, seems you would always be walking in a circle with one small and one long :-) Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Start with this page and check out the fun.

Yep, trim the top part first and then work your way down front and then back (alternating). Can send pics if you need them. Lou

Only pointing out that this must have been going on for a while, so I would not spend a lot of effort on new plastic being the culprit. What about putting another plastic plate between the bottom of the snaps and the inside of the armor? Maybe sandwich the plastic first to see if the bulge telegraphs to the plate. If not, then glue to the inside of the armor (thinking the extra plate will be more giving to whatever is going on?

Haven't done strapping on my TK yet, but I did attend an AP last weekend and looked at a 8 year old suit that had the domes on the outside of the armor. Guys had not noticed it before and everyone was surprised. Another builder said he basically made a U-channel to hold the snaps off direct contact with the armor and did not have any issues - _TT_ The snaps would be between the tops of the T's

Shoulder straps bent Thigh ammo belt, does anyone have a link on the measurement as I have no cut lines. I am talking about the end piece where the pen is, length from cartridge to outside edge and location of rivet hole.

Before I trim the bells, I have looked at other builds and sometimes they seem short in the back when touching in the front (maybe rotated more to the front). Should I try to straighten the bad plastic before I trim to size?

My initial concern was it would interfere with the belt (sticking out too far). Sanded down the height on both, no return edge for the small button panel. Now to cut and add the backer plate.

Thanks Dan for commenting. You are correct, when I look at the larger pad it appears to sit too high. So my plan is to grind it down and then put on a new backer plate.

Button Time Rough cut

Shoulder straps rough cut Trimmed and hot water bath bent

Biceps cut and taped

Front of shins cut at 20mm