LTM

Trying to do something each day when I can. Trimming the belt angles. I see on the AM build it should be 48mm from the end before creating the angles, but the belt with the kit is only 45mm. So hopefully not a big deal. Trimmed

Adding the 30mm plates to the kidney, posterior, and Ab

Lots of extra material with this kit, no need to add shims. That being said, time to trim the junk in the trunk Made the cut on the same line as the 22mm notch Trimming the shoulder straps Instead of scraps pieces to make a larger gluing surface, I used the epoxy putty. Trimmed the smaller plate Trimmed the larger plate, happy with the results

Thanks Shashachu! I will trim to fit.

The kidney has the 22mm notch Sizing the buttons, the main plate has a slight overhang. Should I make it fit the chest base piece? For the smaller buttons, the chest plate is 70mm The measurements is 20mm X 75mm, so does it overhang (I get that it is not from a movie suit, so to make level 3 is it the look or the accuracy (70mm verses 75mm)? As always, thanks for looking. And those that reply, thank you for your feedback.

Cant make it up there, but like you said I am sure we will cross paths soon. Here's the build thread: One thing I really like about it is the real sterling stock. Gives it the right amount of heft without being too heavy for a long period of time.

Do something each day, so I cut some pine to fill out the pouches (still need to paint them black) Snap plates, took a little bit to get the technique down but do enough of them and you will learn Bottom of the snap has a slight dome effect, I assume this is normal. E-6000 will be slathered on to the backside and plastic roughed up for better adhesion.

We will have to meet soon, it's a little bit of a drive up there but worth it. Lou

I was born by Caesarean section, but you really can't tell... except that when I leave my house, I always go out the window. - Steven Wright

Is that Brett's basement shop?

Question on snaps, do you just glue the webbing/snap to the armor? No need to place plastic between the back of the snap and plastic (was reading somewhere that some have had deformations show on the front side)?

Forearms were a challenge to trim. Got some great advice (thanks Sean) and tried to keep the cover strips at a 90 angle. I took off an inch on the inside pieces and 1/2 inch on the left outside and 1/8th inch on the right. Then I tapered by taking off 1/8th at the wrist on both sides, all while constantly checking fit at each cut. Will do any final tweaks, but good enough for now.

I like the separate lenses and the different look to the inside of the helmet. Using water-weld putty and blind nuts to hold in the lens. Just grabbed some that I have from other projects. First step is to rough up the plastic so the putty has positive contact. Create a roll with the putty and place around the opening. Then place the nuts in the putty and fill in around each post. Make sure you have the screw all the way in so that no putty fills up the opening (this would make the screw not go in all the way). Then back out each one and using a finger that has been wet with water, smooth out as much as you can. In this application, you do not want the putty at a 90 degree angle, you want it to go slightly away from the opening. This way the lens will push against the eye opening and not be pushed away by putty that is sitting too high. If that happens, you will have gaps. Don't worry about being totally smooth, the plasti-dip and the lens itself will be covering up the putty.

4-5 light coats and it will be fine.

Check out Sean's build, he used putty to plug the teeth holes. For my first WTF build, I used the paintable plasti-dip and had no issues with the holes cut out (just take your time). Remember to rough up the interior a little for helping with adhesion. If you do individual lenses, use an epoxy putty around the eye holes and place some threaded posts (I did 4 per eye). Once dry you can plasti-dip it as well and everything looks molded in.

If you are thinking about painting the inside of the bucket, now is the time before you assemble (easier by far). Also, if you are thinking about making individual lenses, now is the time to make the holders

Fellow AM builder, great start!

Yes, the larger bump goes in front (I am building AM as well) but waiting on a question if you cut the plastic in front of the bump if going for centurion. Do you cut at the blue line or dont worry about it?

Question, When cutting out the 22mm notch in the kidney, do you trim the butt plate to match?

Need some help/advice on cutting the forearm taper. I am building one of the new AM kits and just want to make sure I am looking at this the correct way before I make any cuts, I do have thin wrists, but the opening is large enough to slip my hand through. Do I keep the cuts (and the cover strips) at a 90 degree angle to the outside ridge? Below I am using a ruler to show where I think I should cut (equal distance of the opening at a 90 degree). Or should I cut off equal amounts on both sides? Wrist end Elbow end

Could use some help on the taper cuts. I do have thin wrists, but the opening is large enough to slip my hand through. Do I keep the cuts (and the cover strips) at a 90 degree angle to the outside ridge? Below I am using a ruler to show where I think I should cut (equal distance of the opening at a 90 degree). Or should I cut off equal amounts on both sides? Wrist end Elbow end

removing return edge for centurion. Inner boxes inserted into outer boxes. Will need to sand even to 15mm Using this tool is quick and easy Done

Cutting the straps, I know to do the 3mm from the sides but do I cut up to the first bump in the front? In the 1.0 tutorial it said 20cm, but the size has changed to 15mm of the first bump. @ukswrath - any advice?

Front of thighs trimmed to 20mm