rzill

Yeah, that's the one I was concerned with, as well. You were clear enough - I just like to double double check!

Yes, I do have another question - just to clarify. The part I circled in orange - that is what I need to close in a little more? I was worried about that, and it is already snapped. Another member told me it was fine, but I'd like it to look better. I can take those snaps off relatively easily and move them to make that a tighter fit. I am guessing that could make everything else move up, and I've already snapped the cod piece and tail bone together. However, that might be a bit loose, so moving up the kidney plate might actually work better anyway. https://imgur.com/a/x7B5Bm0

One other thing, Dan. I actually misspoke... actually, mistyped. I know that can overlap, but I mistakenly called it the chest plate, when I meant the AB plate and the kidney plate overlap. Someone else already said I need to butt join those two, and that was the question I meant to ask.

Thanks, Dan! I would love to have the skills to go Centurion, but honestly, I am absolutely the least handy person in the history of tools. My arms and legs are probably already closer to Sandtrooper level than TK Hero Centurion level. However, I do thank you immensely for the advice and encouragement.

1st question, probably the most obvious one I already know the answer to: Should the curve of the chest plate match up with the bottom edge of the kidney plate, the area near my ring finger? I am guessing that should line up. 2nd question: Can I overlap the chest plate over the kidney plate, or should I trim the kidney plate to go butt to butt against the chest plate? I am not going for Centurion, and just connecting them with snaps and straps.

Thanks all! Much better than mixing the paste for such a small thing. I appreciate the help

I had to re-size my upper body, and while removing the shoulder straps, one of them suffered this small hairline fracture (at least I knew the glue job was a good one!) Is this worth mixing some ABS paste as a 'nip it in the bud' kind of thing?

Ah, interesting. Going with both - I like that. I think that's how I will go. Thanks! I can always count on the good people here

What works best for connecting the arms to shoulders - one friend suggested the hook on the bicep to hang on the shoulder bell. Another says to simply glue straps from shoulder bells to biceps to forearms - all in one piece. Your thoughts? I am building an ANH-TK.

I was originally going to be an ESB TK Trooper, but I am switching to ANH. I bought an ESB blaster, but I've heard that I can add some things to modify it for ANH. Other than Doopy Doos (which is out of stock right now), does anyone know of where I can acquire the necessary parts to make this switch? Thanks!

Hello All! I originally bought a blaster to be an ESB Trooper, but I am switching to ANH. Can someone steer me to anyone who might sell the parts needed to modify my blaster to ANH? Thanks!

Forgive all of these posts, but people on here are so helpful, and I want to get this right! My question du jour is about connecting the shoulder bells to the shoulder bridge that goes between the back and chest plate, AND connecting biceps to forearms. I was just about to put snaps on the strap of the shoulder bell, but I just watched TrooperBay's video, and he glues the strap into the shoulder bell, AND glues the entire arm armor together. Of course, I know to snap the strap to the shoulder bridge between chest and back, but I was about to put snaps on the other end of the strap to snap into the shoulder bell, and snap the forearms and biceps. Is E6000 glue strong enough to hold the strap to the shoulder bell AND glue for connecting upper and lower arm armor? I mean, if TrooperBay did it, I'd think it's ok. Your thoughts?

Excellent. Thanks!

I've heard several different opinions on these, so I thought I would ask for more before I start attaching my snaps. For the strap that the shoulder bells hang from, I am thinking nylon is better since the rest of the arm armor is all hanging from that one strap. Also, is elastic strong enough to hold the ab and kidney plates to the chest and back? I know it's more flexible, but I am wondering how durable it is compared to nylon. Thanks!

Hmm. Maybe I'll just keep shopping for a gray PVC then. I'm not at that step, anyway - just looking ahead.

Another question if anyone is still checking this post. I could not find gray PVC pipe in anything less than a 15 foot strip, for which I was not going to pay over $20. I bought the white PVC, and will sand and paint it. Ukswrath suggests Humbro #5 Admiral Gray gloss for the ab buttons, but a different shade (Testors Gunship gray) for the TD. They look basically the same, and I thought the TD and ab buttons should match anyway. Thoughts?

No, I am not. I am likely the dumbest and least skilled person who has ever attempted to build this armor. I'll be lucky to complete it without it looking more like a Jawa than a Stormtrooper... if I ever do complete it at all.

The canister (assume you have end caps and control panel) is just gray sewer pipe. Stupid question maybe, but is this gray PVC pipe?

Awesome, thanks for such a fast reply!

I have ATA armor, and it does not come with some of the accessories that Anovos includes. I don't know what I have to buy to complete a thermal detonator, but I know that I do not have the canister, nor the clips to attach to the belt. Any ideas on where to purchase these?

Thanks, Swede! It looks like your hooks are put inside holes cut right into the plastic. Did you do anything to reinforce the holes, or does the plastic hold well enough on its own?

Many people have suggested the tutorial video by TK 1636 in regards to making your own hooks for the shin enclosure. A couple questions: First, he uses bailing wire, but doesn't say what gauge. Anyone know what gauge of bailing wire he used? Second, has anyone used his method, and how does it work for you? I am concerned about the drilling of holes into the shins themselves, in which he hooks them together. Thanks!

Thanks. I had to make my rear thigh strips very wide. Not that I have big legs (I'm actually very chicken legged), but my ATA thighs must be a bit off. I made them with the correct 20mm front strips, but that left it very tight, requiring an over 30 mm back strip.

I had to make my rear thigh cover strips larger than the recommended width, so I am guessing that the rear shin strips should be the same width as the rear thighs? I know we need to make them what they need to be to fit us, but should I just come as close as possible to uniform width? ALSO, does anyone recommend a good tutorial on the bra hook attachment for the shins? I also wanted to comment about this community. You guys (and ladies) are AWESOME!!!! I lack a certain faith in humanity, but the help and positive vibes I get from people on here gives me hope. I can't wait to start trooping and meet some more troopers!!

Hey Joseph - my magnets are in sizes of 2 and 3 mm thick. I've quintupled them up, and the armor still won't stay down. I think I have to mold the thighs to be more round, as they are more oval shaped, and the butt ends don't come straight together. Thanks!