shadan

Excellent. I would totally recommend removing all the teeth paint and starting afresh. I did it myself a while back and it turned out quite nicely. Despite someone above saying the ear gaps are fine we felt that they were quite excessive, especially noting we could see the plate joins behind them. Potentially some careful screw tightening could help decrease this gap (and no says it has to be flush!) but it may not work. Didn’t you have a completed helmet on the way that you were waiting on before submitting again?

Super easy to fix those teeth. Get some Humbrol Thinners and an earbud (qtip / cotton swab) and using a small amount gently rub against the paint. It will soon all come off cleanly allowing you to repaint the teeth.

Well I did a new photo shoot and wouldn’t you know it, that damn hand plate came loose again and spoiled every image. Completely over it right now.

It is 3D printed but it’s something I got off eBay or maybe ETSY ages ago. I’ll see if I can dig up old emails. It’s not bad hey!

T-track weathering is no more.

With the blaster, all I really needed to do (I think?) was to paint the t-tracks. I had originally planned to do a complete respray but decided to get out a paint brush instead. After doing the t-tracks I also painted the main grip again as it had a few trooping scars. I’ve been trooping it with my ST, yes I know it’s not technically the right E-11 but here we are. In the end both the t-tracks and main grip have a more plastic look. Will take pics once it’s all dried and cured. I also re-glued one of the latex hand plates to the gloves again. Just some adjustments to the kidney to butt connections and I’m ready for a L2 photo shoot I think!

You can totally use CA glue of course! Just trying to help prevent any future problems you may encounter

I would really caution against using a Cyanoacrylate glue. I mean it will work and you’ll have strong joins, but you’ll need to be 100% certain that every join is exactly where it needs to be and not have to be changed down the line, or risk causing damage to your kit. That’s the beauty of E-6000, it’s super strong but it can be 100% cured and still be pulled apart with no damage to the plastic. I go through heaps of it here in Canberra with one of my other projects. It’s quite easy to order in.

What kind of glue did you end up using, if you don’t mind me asking? Something that is able to be pulled apart without damaging your work is a must!

That would have been handy. I go through so many tubes of that stuff!

+1 for E-6000 at Spotlight as @gmrhodes13said. You can get it cheaper on sales etc through eBay but Spotlight if you need it in a hurry. Where about here in Australia are you based? EDIT: Ah Knightfall Garrison. Greetings from the Southern Cross Garrison!

Still to do... 1. Adjust the strapping on the butt plate as the sides stick out a little. 2. Re-glue the hand plates AGAIN as they keep peeling off. 3. Fill those tiny gaps on the front and back of the thighs 4. Repaint my E-11

Sweet. I’ll tick that part off then!

Thanks man. Just hope it’s close enough. I can easily pull it apart to try again so no huge concern there.

This is my sniper knee. It was so hard to get it looking like this, lots of head scratching to try and work out how to get it into position. (This is the outer and better side) (This side is not so great) (Not the best on the inside either)