Balders

I had a similar problem when I made mine, turned out that one of the switches was a "normal open" when it should have been "normal close" I can't recall which one it was, but to test, simply hold one of your current switches closed whilst powering up. If no change, shut down, hold the next switch closed and repeat. You might have a different problem, but it's worth a try.

Good luck with your build. I made this with some of my left-over/spare parts:

You may find putting the microphone right up to your lips will give it that bit more over-driven distortion effect you are after.

I want to say a huge "thank you" to Skyone/Manuel for putting this project into the public domain. I finally completed my E11 blaster tonight, it's all working exactly as designed, I'm amazed how loud it is! I power mine from a 2cell 450 lipo which fits nicely inside the now hollowed out battery tray on my Hasbro/Doopydoos E11. Rest of the electronics was a bit of a squeeze...had to trim a lot of the internal plastics away, but it does now all fit and closes nicely. Thanks again Skyone. I now have the nickname "Electro" in my local patrol! Regards, Steve

Managed to squeeze everything in and close it up. Once replacement amp board arrives, will probably trim and resolder the wires to tidy things up, and will also discreetly fit a 3.5mm jack socket so I can output to my aker if needs be.<br>

Because it's what I had to hand...and my official blaster will be a RotJ to go with my suit. Pipe build coming next New sound board arrived today, but so far no luck in getting it going. Can I just check, the mp3 files should be in the root of the microSD card right? I've used the drive tool utility to sort the files. Must the SD card have nothing else other than the files? Edit: Ignore that, the sound board and sound files are working perfectly! For some unknown reason (I must be having all the luck!) my amp has packed in! I tested it a couple of weeks back with a normal sound source and haven't touched it since, but it's just not working now. Can figure out why, gets a little warm but not "hot" but I've tested the signal gets in, power in is also good, I just get nothing out the other side. Will de-solder it and see if I can find anything amiss. Edit 2: Here's the system with the speaker wired straight to the MP3 board. New amplifier ordered. https://youtu.be/MCRod5s98WA

Can't wait for my sound board to be delivered. I've ordered 3 from different places in the hope at least one will get here quickly! In the meantime, here's how my blaster is coming along: https://youtu.be/H5VSoUWCKPw

Yup. Even tried triggering manually (ground to k1 pin for example) and nothing. The led lit up as if it was trying to play something so it might be my amp is playing up. Will try again tonight, although I do have another wt5001 en route from another supplier.

I had a quick go and got nothing out of it. I'm not an expert....would VCC on the diagram be +5v from the arduino? And should I be plugging the Tx arduino output to the Rx input on the diagram (4th pin down on right)? The docs suggest using an arduino library but I'm guessing that the wt5001 code already references serial writes?

Grrr...a supplier sent me a JQ6500 mp3 board when I ordered a WT5001M02, anyone used one of these?

Have you double checked all the grounds?

Yeah, I had trouble spotting it, I actually noticed it when I cut a square hole for it to fit in and noticed one corner didn't look right

The bar counter is kind of marked but it's very subtle...one of the corners is ever so slightly rounded off. You'll notice 3 have a sharp edge and the 4th is slightly bevelled.

Haha, you won't believe this...just about got things working for the first time, then managed to short a ground and one of the led drivers (I think, and now my nano won't power on from the Vin . Weirdly it's ok if I power from USB and I've checked voltage is getting to the pins etc. At least I have a spare arduino. Off to warm the soldering iron up! EDIT: OK, new arduino in place, nearly got it working as plan, just an issue with the LED staying on after change of weapon, but hopefully I will get that sorted. Once it's all working for me, shall I post my "upside down" code for anyone else who buys the same led drivers as I did? https://youtu.be/IV0d6BvbumI EDIT2: OK, also figured out that one (sort of). It was trying to do the fade loop inverse of my silly PWM drivers, so for now, I've simply added a number of decreasing values with a short delay to give the same appearance. I did manage to get the mathematical fade working, but it looped and I couldn't stop it.

YES! Got mine working with the same fix as above, had to swap this value: if (buttonState2 == LOW) to: if (buttonState2 == HIGH) and now it works