kme1682

Thanks all for the support along the way.... I'm an official TK! (for as long as we're TK) I'm one of the kewl kids! I don't know what # I am... as far as 35th, 42nd, 75th approved and so on. "Dare Mighty Deeds" mega-hugs to my alpha and bravo-mates that helped out along way whether was in-person help, constructive feedback, sage advice, cheerleading and/or just plain awesomeness. Slurry! -krista

Certain clones had particular paint schemes to reflect their individual nature. (Well, that's a whole existential topic right there.) So it appears possible to have an indentified character if there are specific, unique visual identifiers. Anyways, to bring this back to the CRL, which seems to be on the basic level so far, it seems that individual TKs (ie; Finn TK) would need to have a separate set of "hallmarks" to be able to define and differentiate from other costumes. We haven't seen the movie yet, so who knows how many bloody handprint outfits there could be to differentiate the "Finn TK" from a just-got-blown-up-real-good TK. I suppose a better anology than clones would be imperial officers that have slight variations to designate who they are. There's the basic imperial officer CRL, and there's particular identifiers for some speciifc officers. I understand that some garrisons/members like to be able to specifically identify who they are portraying, so this ability might be useful for those who like to portray a specific TK. I suppose then it's possible, once the movie comes out, to weather your outfit to be the TFA TK that was second to the left in the scene when ___ blew up, or the TK on the extreme right of the____ lens-flare at 20.49min of the movie. However, I would caution against codifying these unique characteristics to the point where our GML's are bogged down trying to verify millimeter paint schemes just to be the second TK to the right and so on. Hopefully there's a happy medium for folks that want to be a specific TK (like a black/grey/red paldron wearing TK) without creating a landslide of minutia. I agree with the general thought that characters in armour will remain 501st/"darkside," even if the character in the armour is "light side" in nature per the movie plot. Happily, our basic CRL allows for entry level, and folks can choose to get more specific as time wears on. I know I've put further enhancements and accuracy upgrades on hold till the movie comes out. I'd like to see how some specific items mentioned during various accuracy discussions appear on film/ the big screen. The previews seem to show there'll be plenty o'weathering potential for folks that like the battle damaged look. I'm looking forward to seeing all the environments that the the TKs are placed... heck I'm looking forward to just seeing an army of troopers on the big screen again! Thanks again for all the work on the basic CRL! Go team FISD! -Krista

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I've seen red reflective tape work well for the three marks on the side of the blaster, which would (if I remember correctly) normally light up by LED or other internal illuminating source. As mentioned, perhaps requiring the electronics for this optional accessory would be reserved to the higher (highest?) levels of approval? Thanks again for all the many efforts! -krista

It could be the camera/photo, but is the material made from an already shiny fabric? There is 4-way stretch fabric that has a sheen, which would be better resource. If you tack your material to your biceps/forearm and thigh/knee/shin, you could (in theory) put on those pieces like a sleeve. As with any build, you may need to play around with the fit so that you don't look like a tube (ie; no definition of an elbow or knee). I suppose the forward white and receeding black would give an illusion of foreground/depth. Additionally, I wonder if using a piping foot, stretch material and the proper size piping cord would help to give better raised edges. The foam seems to expand to give "puffiness" but not neccessarily raised edges. Could be the way I'm seeing the photo though. I include options below to consider for sheen/shiny fabric (I am not recommending these suppliers, I'm merely offering some of the types of fabrics that could be considered. Nor is this an exhaustive list. You and others may find other helpful fabrics!) Please keep in mind that some of these fabrics could lose their luster over time. If you purchase vinyl, this will become brittle or shred over time (years, not months unless left in very hot environments. I base this on years of wearing it at goth-clubs from waaaaay back-in-the-day and how my 2007 PVC white gogo boots flaked off when wearing them this weekend. The boots looked so nice in the closet, then I put them on... I looked like a MadMax outcast. Of course, your individual experience may vary.) Each fabric has their benefits and burdens to make them a personal choice for what you feel/think is most important for your gaskets. Weave shown SupperShine: ---------- Metallic 4-way: http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/1132 Milliskin Shiny 4-way stretch: http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/1187 Regular spandex 2-way stretch (some sheen, may not photo well)-------------- Satin Spandex 2-way stretch http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/1649 (No link: Lame (pronounced la-MAY if you go to a fabric store), has 2-way stretch) -

Sorry to be obtuse, but would someone mind updating the first post with the version of the CRL you'd like for us to review? Or, alternatively, provide a link in the first post to the most current CRL you'd like for us to read through for clarity/typos/etc.? If y'all no longer need proof-reading, then congrats and thanks very much for all the months/weeks/days/hours of work! Slurry! -krista EDIT: Thanks. Email sent with polishing edit suggestions. A lot of great work is there; it's awesome to be at the point of polishing. Congrats!

I'm adding in this build-tidbit to this thread since there isn't yet a chest plate thread. I made some modifications to keep the chest plate more flush with the yoke. Thanks to Ely for the idea! As with any build methods, this is "a" way and not "the" way to keep the chest plate down/flush. Three steps to this modification: A) We took industrial velcro and placed the soft side facing the body under the yoke and chest plate. Placement will vary according to your torso. For me: Vertically, a 2x2" soft side industrial velcro was placed facing the body under the yoke on the side closest to the center chest. Horizontally, it was placed along an imaginary line from the armpit to the yoke. On the chest plate a 2x2" soft side industrial velcro was placed facing the body on either side of the center indentation. Be) Two pieces 1" wide non-roll waistband elastics had velcro sewn on both ends, same side of the elastic. One side of each piece was velcroed to the underside of yoke while putting on the armour. C) To wear armour: The chest plate/yoke elastics were velcroed first and then the chest plate was lowered to adhere to left and right sides of the waist/chest. I use velcro for my waste/sides. Again, there are other ways to keep the chest plate flush. Many have found snaps to be useful. That's not my particular build practice for a few reasons, so I'm mentioning this modification for those that like to use velcro and might need another idea to consider. We found this modification sucessfully worked well. Happy Building! -krista EDIT: b or B parenthesis turns into winky face.... that's my "something new" for today!

We did not cut ours. If the decals didn't work, more than likely we would have painted and still not cut them out. There are a few items (like those) that we are waiting to see the movie to have a better understanding before making "real consequence" choices. If we choose to cut, using a dremmel bit that is similar to what's used to cut out the "teeth" of the OT TK helmet should do nicely, in theory. Would be better to hear from those that made the cuts about the dremmel bit, and to hear if there was any concern about any stability/fragility of the piece after the cuts. Happy Building! Best, -krista

Thanks for posting this separately. My chest gaskets left/right sides are kept together by sewing elastic/velcro about 8 vertical inches at center of chest. This distributes the pull and weight down the 8 vertical inches, rather than a single point of contact. Also, as a lady I have some subtle curves that need more than a single point of contact to fit snuggly. I think some other TFA TK ladies have used the single chest strap system, so it would be great to hear from them how the rubber and fit has held up after a few troops. I love the other harness ideas, and have given me ideas to improve on the belt/garter system I have for the thighs and knee gaskets. Thanks! -Krista

Hi all, First- a standing ovation for the amount of work that's already gone into the CRL! I especially love having the pictures to accompany the descriptions for those more-visiually inclined folks. Well done! The following points are simply for consideration if they haven't already been decided: - Gloves: Is the idea that the current minimum standard does not have the black double stitching around particular areas of the forefinger and thumb? - Gloves: Since the pictures only show the tops of the hands, does the minimum standard for approval not require the particularly shaped pads on the palm? - Boots: If the minimum standards include the currently approved boots for OT TK, it would be good to specify "OT TK" vs "other TK" such as "TFA TK" and so on. (This assumes, based on prior posts, that TFA stormtroopers will also have a TK designation.) - Gaskets: The main difference I can easily see in rubber/silicone/latex vs. cloth-only is the visible weave of the fabric. Therefore is the idea that the current minimum standard will allow for gaskets that have a visible, yet shiny weave? Profound thanks for all the hard work. I'm very much looking forward to having a CRL that many people can attain, still look great and do good works while portraying an evil, heartless, soul-crushing First Order Empire. (Just kidding, we all know the fumes from painting the TFA TK or just the helmet make us see happy-trippy-rainbows and unicorns! j/k) :happy and cheerful birthday: If there's other stuff to get done, I'm happy to help in whatever way I can that would be useful to the TFA TKs. Thanks again for all the many efforts! Slurry! -Krista

Bravo, Serge! Yes. You can see why it could more desirable than velcro. If you choose to go that route, I'd love to hear how it went for you. And… if you don't mind… where you placed the elastic. Pics of the inside of the forearm looking down from the elbow to the wrist would be quite helpful. If you're not comfortable posting a pic, I understand. Happy Building! -Krista

Hi Serge, I'm going by memory, please forgive any inadvertent error. I'll try to expound, though the best input would be from troopers that performed the method. As memory serves, a portion of the length of the forearm (that has the "velcro tab" as you've shown above) was glued. Instead of using velcro to maintain closure, elastic was placed inside the forearm so that the end of the forearm would close due to the pull of the elastic. I suppose in theory the same principle would apply all the way up the forearm toward elbow. I think though, many folks found the forearms to be roomy at that end. I can't remember whether the elastic was sandwiched in-between ABS layers by glue then glued to the inside of the forearm, riveted to one piece of ABS and then glued to forearm, etc. I took a look through our forearm resource pinned in this forum, and sadly we don't have pics of the elastic closure method. If perhaps any trooper found success in this measure they could post a few build pics to help out those thinking of going this route. Best wishes for your build! -Krista

I absolutely love the tabs on the sides of the abs for the belt. We are going to make a modification along these lines as long as it doens't minimize movement, or offer some problematic difficulty I haven't thought of (or read about) yet. Best, -Krista

I had velcroed the entire length instead of gluing and leaving a 3/4, 2/3 or 1/2 length unglued. However, in hindsight I think it was unwise to have used industrial velcro, because the force needed to open the velcro was disconcerting. There are some techniques to avoid using a "pull apart" method to separate velcro, such as a dull blade sliiped in between the velcro. I can slip my hand easily through the opening, so it ended up not being an issue for me. I just like having options wherever possible. If I remember correctly, there were a few folks that used the elastic closure method. It would have been my choice #2 to try out if I had time. Best, -Krista

Hey Tony, There is a thread a little further down about bondo replacement. There is already some discussion there. Some are suggesting not to use bondo because of its rigidity. In our build, if we had a different timeline we would have avoided CA glue and bondo altogether. Like many build methods and reagents, some will find what works reliably for them and some will choose other means and supplies. I gently encourage you to read the "bondo replacement" thread, and to learn the benefits/burdens of adhesive agents before proceeding so you can make the most informed decision for your personal build of the kit. Best, -krista