justjoseph63

I know you aren't quite at that point yet, but I wanted to give you a heads-up on something.. The ABS that Dave uses has a UV resistant layer on the outside, meaning that the chances of it yellowing are next to zero (I have a set that is going on 8 years with no discoloration). The reason I bring this up is because it can affect your cover strips. Note that one side will have a smooth, glossy finish and the other has a similar but ever-so slightly scuffed finish (hold it up next to a light to see the surface). The shiny side is the one with the UV protective layer and should face outward, so keep this in mind when sizing/gluing. If you have any questions, just let me know!

Hey all.. First, apologies for my unexpected leave of absence. In addition to a couple of health items that needed to be sorted out and my internet going down for a time I am back. I have lots of catching up to do, so please bear with me! (I really did miss you all)! I'm now ready for service and anxious to dive into the deep end to keep this party going!

Exactly. If you are not familiar with using one you can end up with a molten mess. ABS actually melts at 200 degrees (93 Celsius) , and some heat guns can reach 1400 (760 C.)

I need to use something for my Anovos Hero armor and was thinking about the retrobright. One thing I read a while back was that it helps to wrap a single layer of clear cling-film around each piece before putting it out in the sun to keep the mixture from drying out. Makes sense, but has anyone tried this?

Another thing you might consider is to ask that members here send him one of their personal trading cards. Most of us have them and I'll bet many (myself included) would be happy to mail him one. Might lift his spirits to be able to open the envelopes and collect them. We have over 200 Garrisons/Squads/outposts worldwide, so you never know how many he would receive (or from where)! As Stormtroopers we have a tough plastic shell, but when it comes to kids that are ill we are all soft on the inside. I think I can speak for us all when I say that we wish your grandson (and your family) all the best on this difficult journey.

You are going to be pleasantly surprised by how much thicker the ABS he uses is as compared to some other makers (especially the bucket). I'm building one of his helmets now for a display piece, and though I normally use ABS scissors, for this one I found that a quality pair of tin snips makes life much easier. Trust me. I noticed a while back that although Dave makes his Hovi-tips out of cast aluminum rather than resin that there was no "nipple" inside like the originals. I made a few that look very close, made some molds, cast a ton of them in white resin and sent them to him so you should have received a set with your kit. You may want to paint them, but once the screen is in you really can't tell a difference in the color. I believe I drilled out the bottoms slightly to accommodate the screw heads/tiny washer so they can lay flat on the base, but you may have to take a little more out. To attach them, I used super glue gel with an accelerator instead of regular CA glue. More control and a lower viscosity so it wouldn't seep out through the screw opening.

When you do get the pieces for the sniper knee, Scott, I would suggest posting up a "mini" build thread. RS tends to not align the sniper knee ideally, but we can help get it where it needs to be. This would be beneficial for others as well!

RS has an outstanding reputation for customer service, so you should have no issues getting any parts you need from them.

Hi Scott, Sorry for the delay in responding to your thread but I am truly sorry to feel that you will not be continuing on to Level 3. Being a commission build we realize that you have no control over most of the items listed in your review. If you look at past reviews for troopers with commission builds from this particular maker you will see the exact same issues are present. As is stated in the "Getting Started..." section: COMMISSION BUILDS Please be aware before purchasing a "commission build" (assembled by any of our vetted sellers listed below) or a completed costume sold by reputable members, does not mean an automatic pass at our higher levels of approval. As with all costumes, the armor will be under the same level of scrutiny as one you assemble yourself. It must fit well and follow correctly the requirements as set out in the current CRL. Please also bare in mind, you could be requested to make modifications and corrections when applying for Expert Infantry and Centurion levels where additional reference materials are used over and above what is written in said CRL's. Some example are sniper plate positioning, rivet placement and the finer details scrutinized at Centurion. Let me add that (contrary to popular belief) we in the D.O. office are not here (nor enjoy) pointing out issues. It's also important to note that we are not the RPF (Replica Prop Forum). Unlike the MEPD who insist that higher levels mimic a particular trooper, we are aiming for the "Ideal" trooper.,, (think fresh out of the Academy). We are well aware that there were lots of differences in the armor seen in ANH... no stripes, bad fitting parts etc. However, the CRLs are there for one reason. Continuity. Any changes/updates are voted on by the members before being implemented, and when new updates are suggested they must be backed with proof of what was seen on the majority of the TKs seen in the film(s)/ As has been quoted and is seen in all reviews, we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. As D.O.s, we have studied literally hundreds (if not thousands) of references. All can be found here on the FISD or sites like starwarshelmets.com, but often folks may miss them. The only time we use that caveat is when we note something that was indeed screen accurate and seen on the majority of the TKs seen in the film(s). It's also important to note that after being completed (but before posting), all submissions for higher levels are peer-reviewed by the entire D.O. staff prior to final approval. We are not perfect, and this allows for a second and third set of eyes. Even then we occasionally miss things because we are, after all, human. "When you look at the CRLs, the only thing I am missing for Centurion is I need to fix the 45 degree angles my belt. "However, the other items come down to people’s personal preference and the certain reference pictures selected". Not exactly. For instance, some of the other items noted are not personal preferences or marked as "ideally" in the CRL but are stated quite clearly with no ambiguity: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. Lastly, when we do note an issue we do our very best to offer advice on how to get it ready for the next level but that is up to the trooper. Will the general public notice these small details when posing for a pic with a "real" TK? Not at all! In the end it's all about about getting out there in your shiny white armor, having fun and putting smiles on faces!

I believe Dave (DDD) uses the same vendor I do for rubber gloves. I normally wear a medium in regular gloves but a small in the chemical type as they tend to run large and I prefer the dexterity.

You can, Terry! The key points to armor building I always suggest are: 1. Have all your supplies on-hand before beginning. 2. Research. Research. Research. Check out build threads, Expert Infantry and Centurion submission threads specific to AM armor. Each maker has their own little nuances, and it helps to know what these are. If you need help finding these, just ask. 3. Post lots of photos on your build thread every chance you get (this is especially important when you have an issue). When in doubt, ALWAYS post up pics before cutting/gluing. Trust me on this one. 4. Take.... your....time. I cannot stress that enough. 5. Ask questions, and lots of them. Your questions are just as important to us as they are to you. 6. You will get frustrated/discouraged at times. When this happens, take a step back and refer to item 5 above. We will get you through it. Most importantly, HAVE FUN!

This is going to be another great year for the FISD!

Hi Ardeshir! So at this point we have a bit of a dilemma. Although your blaster is good to go, since you have included your SE-44C with your submission it also falls under the CRL requirement that 3D printed blasters can not have visible print lines and must be sanded smooth. I understand your statement about the grip texture, but as you can see below there are several areas that need to be addressed in order to meet that requirement. If you have taken care of these already that's GREAT! If so, just post up a few detail pics and we can move along. Since only one weapon is required for this level, the alternative would be to remove all images of the pistol from your submission thread.

Before ordering it, be aware that it may not fit. At 130 lbs., the person selling it is pretty slim and has trimmed the calves pretty close.,, almost form-fitting: Many if not most of the other pieces may be able to be adjusted with some new strapping, but if you have larger calves they may need shims. Unfortunately Anovos is no longer is business, so finding black ABS to match may be an issue. The tops of the thighs look to have a little more room (almost too much on the lower right one) so you you may be OK there: Overall the armor should have a "custom tailored" appearance, and the difference of 20+ lbs. may make a huge difference on the fit and amount of work needed.

Added to the queue, Scott!

It's a visor . You just know what this 60 foot Opee sea killer is thinking: MMMM.. crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside!

Sorry, my computer technical skills are what they used to call back on the Death Star "Total cr@p", lol. Just a bit of fun.

NICE looking set of armor there, Alan, and it looks like it fits you very well! I'm sure you will have a few small tweaks here and there, but that's to be expected. Not sure what type of strapping system you are using for the thighs, but you may want to rotate them out a bit if possible. The reason I say that is because you may find that when you walk the tops of them are catching on the cod. Having that extra space will make it much more comfortable.

Strange but absolutely true. I thought it was just me, lol.

Hi Caleb, and thank you for your submission for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and CENTURION Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of CENTURION. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Welcome to the ranks, brother, and thanks for one of the best submissions we've seen in a long time. You have not only stepped up to the plate, you have knocked it out of the park! We appreciate you taking care of the notches in such a timely fashion, and VERY smart idea of adding the reinforcements. I'm not a big fan of return edges in many areas, but in ones like this it's better to have that extra protection to prevent any potential splitting. Nice job, sir. Nice job indeed. All that being said, I would like to be the first to congratulate you on this milestone in your TK journey, and we are looking forward to seeing your HWT!

Not sure if I would use super glue. The reason being is that depending on how often you troop, the elastic can/will wear out and lose it's flexibility over time. It takes longer to cure, but I use a dab of E-6000 which is a lot easier to remove. Super glue is forever, lol. I have had to replace the elastic on my HWT armor about 3 times, and peeling the E-6000 of is pretty easy.

Please excuse my tardiness on the updates of this thread.. I have more than a few irons in the fire right now but will get to it a.s.a.p!

REALLY nice job on this pack, Eric, and ALWAYS great to see another potential HWT joining the ranks! As has been mentioned, the glossy surface on the "radio box" may or may not be an issue (depending on your GML) for Basic 501st approval, but instead of that reflective finish I would suggest perhaps making it solid black or even covering it with some black window type screen, even if you are not heading for higher levels of approval (but as a fellow HWT I hope you are)!. Yeah, the shiny finish may look cool, but the CRLs are based on the videogame where the surface has no reflection. If I can be of any help on your journey, just let me know!

Hi Caleb, and thank you for your EIB submission for ANH Stunt! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First THANK YOU for not only taking care of that teeth paint, but beating us to the punch on the shoulder bridge elastic and trimming the bottom of the kidney. Nice work! (I expected no less, though, lol). Looks like all of your hard work and and attention to detail have paid off, brother.. truly a spectacular build, so nothing to see in this area. Move along.. Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Only one item here, and it's nothing that you can't accomplish in about 8 to 10 minutes at most. SO, while the notches on the kidneys are not a requirement, it looks like you started one on the right side. As per the CRL, "If present, each notch is approximately 22 mm tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior plate". So, that means that you will need one on both sides. The rear of the one you started on the right side (first pic) is already aligned perfectly with the posterior plate, but don't worry, not a big deal if the left notch is slightly out of alignment with the posterior plate. Ideally? Yes. Required? Nope. I'm sure you already know this, but it is important to drill out the corners (yellow circles) and keep them slightly rounded (just as you have now) so that you don't have a sharp angle there, which can lead to splitting. Reference images And that's it! Again, a beautiful job on this armor, sir. Congrats on being the newest EI in the GA. Garrison, and time to get that Centurion submission in once you get those notches done!