justjoseph63

Hi Wayne! Any updates on the, sir? THANKS!

Hi Tarkan, and thanks for your submission! One of us will be with you shortly, sir. While you wait, we need a favor.. As per the CRL for EI, Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide It will be a bit of a pain, but we need you to suit up and take some new pics (both sides) with your belt tightened a bit to close that gap some. It doesn't have to be EXACTLY half an inch (or less) so no need for a ruler, lol. THANKS!

Truer words have never been spoken.

If you have a set of needle files like these, evening out the insides will be super easy. I know you haven't reached that point yet, but when it comes time to paint be sure to keep the borders within the teeth areas and not let it extend into the gum areas .

Glad to know that you found something to bond them with, so they are definitely not silicone. Note that Loctite Plastics Bonder is CA (super) glue and is pretty brittle when it cures. Because the guard and gloved flex when worn, it may be a good idea to keep an eye on the edges down the road in case the bond starts to fail in those areas and it starts to lift off. A little separation on the sides is expected, though. As for painting them, I wouldn't worry about it at this point in time. I believe they do contain at least some amount of latex, though, which naturally yellows with age and exposure to sunlight. This is not a big deal, but if they get too yellow, painting them would certainly be an option (the originals were painted latex).

Really glad to see that you went with the "double snap" method, Steve. Pretty much guarantees that nothing will ever come apart during a troop! Since the black nylon straps that hold the shoulder bells to the shoulder bridge elastic are normally 1" wide, you can still use the double snap method on these as well. Just be sure to put a piece of elastic under the snaps on the white elastic for some added strength (blue arrow). Paint the tops white and you are in business!

I got one for my armor bin from here. The size is 11" x 4", which is large enough to cover the raised HUSKY logo on the top. The seller makes them to order, and you can get the letters/numbers in English or Aurebesh.

Looks GREAT, James! Can you post up a side view?

PERFECT, and exactly what I was looking for! Many thanks, sir!

In looking at the screen used ones below, the sheen is minimal (this could be from lots of use, though). However, the pic on the far right shows that there was a reflection, even if it is only slight. I think you will be fine with semi-gloss. Just try to make sure the total width (with caps attached) stays very close to 7 ½ inches (190 mm).

I have a few tutorials under my avatar below which will help as well, the main one is the supply list for your build (link here). AM makes an awesome kit, and I look forward to following your build! If I could offer some advice, it would be: 1. Take... your... time. Rushing leads to mistakes. Trust me. 2. When in doubt, always ask before cutting/gluing. Adding photos of any issues will help a LOT! 3. Never be shy about asking questions, no matter how small or how many. To quote Glen, "There are no silly questions, only silly mistakes".

Looking sharp, Bobby! As you mentioned, there are always a few tweaks here and there, and nothing jumps out too much.. mostly strapping issues. I know it was your first time suiting up, but to add to what Steven mentioned, I would suggest: 1. The ABS belt should come up quite a bit. I see that the snaps are there, but Velcro will work as well. 2. If possible, the shoulder bells could come in to where the tops touch the shoulder bridges. If not, no biggie. 3. The biceps definitely need to come up. They should not overlap the forearm. 4. I noticed that your sniper knee is getting caught behind the bottom of the thigh. A common problem that can be remedied by adding a foam strip behind the top of the calf (along the seam) to help push it out. 5. The thighs look a little low and uneven. These can be raised, which would also help with the sniper knee plate overlap. These are just suggestions, but they will definitely give you a better, more screen accurate look. If you need help with anything, just let us know!

Well, the 3D weapon build bug has bitten and next up on the agenda is an ROTJ E-11. I found the best version I can (link here) but it will need definitely need quite a few modifications. Most I can do myself or order the parts (like a textured grip), BUT... The U channels on the barrel are not the correct design and have more of a square shape like this: This is probably a VERY tall order, but to stay true to the originals I am looking for a source for actual U shaped ones. As seen in the first pic, some were almost a semi-circle (1) but most had the taller sides (2). Metal would be preferred, but 3D printed ones would work. Any help in sourcing these or any other more screen accurate parts would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!

ASK THE D.O.s For those of you who have a particular issue (or issues) before or after submitting for Expert Infantry / Centurion level approval, in order to get you an answer faster you can now privately contact the entire Deployment Officer team at one time! Questions about fitting, repairs, CRL standards/requirements or anything pertaining to reaching Levels 2 and 3 are not only welcomed, but encouraged. Keep in mind that no question is too small, and that your queries will only be seen by the D.O. Staff. We are here to help in any way we can, so please feel free to send us a message by clicking on this link: @Deployment Officer Team and we will get back to you A.S.A.P.!

ASK THE D.O.s For those of you who have a particular issue (or issues) before or after submitting for Expert Infantry / Centurion level approval, in order to get you an answer faster you can now privately contact the entire Deployment Officer team at one time! Questions about fitting, repairs, CRL standards/requirements or anything pertaining to reaching Levels 2 and 3 are not only welcomed, but encouraged. Keep in mind that no question is too small, and that your queries will only be seen by the D.O. Staff. We are here to help in any way we can, so please feel free to send us a message by clicking on this link: @Deployment Officer Team and we will get back to you A.S.A.P.!

Hi Eli! Purchasing a set of quality armor can be an expensive undertaking. Even a used set can often run $800.00 or more, and it needs to be fitted to the wearer, plus there is the cost of boots, under-suit, etc. My advice would be to head over to the Galactic Academy (link here), which is part of the 501st Legion and a safe place for Star Wars fans under 18 to get lots of info. about costuming Since you still have a lot of growing to do I wouldn't sink a lot of money on anything right now as you will outgrow it, but you can start saving up, future Stormtrooper!

For accuracy, I would get them from Tony @ukswrath. I know you are in the UK, but they can be sent in a regular envelope and the extra postage would only be about 65 cents. Here is a link to his sales thread:

It will be difficult to tell how the left shin will sit compared to the thigh until you get the sniper plate glued to it, but right now it looks pretty darned good! Right now they sit perfectly on the boots, so depending on how the thigh length is you may be in good shape. You have some "wiggle room" in the gap. In looking at the top, you have a little bit more of the ridge on the inside than the outside (blue arrows). No the biggest of deals by any means, but don't trim any more off of that area. The cover strip should sit in the center. The bottoms are a tiny bit flared out (see yellow arrow in the first pic above), but when you pull them together they should be fine. The rear edges should ideally be parallel. If you have the room, I would suggest trimming the outside piece (second photo) to achieve that. It would also bring in the bottoms a bit Keep up the great work, sir, and keep those photos coming!

Looking nice, sir! I noticed that your bucket is riding a bit high, and I'm thinking that you have padding in the top. Removing that would bring the helmet down and significantly increase your field of vision. Trust me. If you can raise the bells it would give you a better overall look. As for the forearms, I would split the difference on the length- (raise the left one a tad and lower the right a bit. SUPER job on adjusting the TD clips. If I could offer one suggestion, it would be to change the direction of the bend on the bottoms. If they face outward they can scratch your armor where the metal meets the plastic. Facing the bend the other way as shown would prevent this. The Velcro on the back like you have it is always a great idea to prevent scratches as well. Note how bottom bends face away from the wearer.

The blue tube stripes can vary in number from 9 to 16 per side, so you should have plenty of room!

Welcome to the FISD, Chris! Tons of information here to look at, but don't let it confuse you. Here are a few threads I would suggest to get you started, but always feel free to ask all the questions you need to. we are here to help! 1. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ 2. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30456-how-to-join-the-501st-legion-as-an-imperial-stormtrooper-tk/

WAY TO GO, TK 70921! I think this calls for the Happy Dance! Next up, Expert infantry!

Excellent work on these suggestions, Jeff! I admire the fact that you are taking on these items, and your attention to details is to be applauded! You are absolutely correct when you said that very few commission builds are perfect right out of the box. Fitting armor from afar is a lot different than in person! I (honestly) hate to add to your list, and it will not affect you for Basic or even Expert Infantry but the button covers on the ABS belt will need to be reduced if when you apply for Centurion. As seen in the reference images, they lie flat against the belt and have no raised edges. I had to make the same exact change for my first build, and it's really not that difficult. Just (carefully) use a razor knife to pry them up, trim down the sides and glue em' back on. Should take you all of 10 - 15 minutes. Reference images Centurion approved AM belt Just keep doing what you are doing, keep up the great attitude and we will get you there, sir.

Welcome to the 501st and the FISD, Ben! Every Garrison has their own traditions and such, but the basics remain the same. I have a thread here that will give you some pointers: