justjoseph63

On a completely (sort of) different topic, I have looked over several versions of the "original" ANH script and in every single one the Officer says "412", not 421. Strange.

GREAT to have you aboard, Michael! As has been mentioned, starting a build thread will help in more ways than you know.. You can show off your build/progress and get advice from the awesome members of the TRUE home of shiny white armor! If I could offer some advice, it would be: Ask questions... as many as you want to. The more the better. Post up photos, and lots of em'. This is especially important when you have an issue. They truly are worth a thousand words. When in doubt, always ask before cutting or gluing. Trust me. Most importantly, take...... your.... time. Rushing leads to mistakes. We are here to help every step of the way, so never be shy, and welcome to the FISD!

Just a little overkill, lol, but a great idea!

COOL! Looking forward to seeing those updated pics, and have a BLAST on your troop!

Glad my tutorial helped, Geoff, any photos?

WAY TO GO, Kris! After seeing that armor I had no doubts... Another Centurion for Garrison Titan!

Hi Matt, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to EI! On behalf of the entire DO staff, congratulations!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First of all, as a taller Trooper you did a SUPER nice job on making this armor fit great! Excellent work, sir. Secondly, please don't be alarmed at all the photos below. You nailed a lot of great details, but we have a few suggestions for ya' to help give you a better overall look. That being said, let's jump right in! Unless it is permanently glued down, we suggest that you lower the center of the brow trim a bit, as it seems to have an arch. As seen in the reference image, most had a more horizontal look. Reference image In a perfect world, the biceps should sit underneath the shoulder bell. We realize that because of your height this may be difficult, but you should be able to raise them an inch or so by shortening the strapping. It may also help to remove all of the return edge from the bottoms of the bells (pic 3) so that they don't butt up against the bicep. This will also allow them to sit closer to the bicep, and as seen in the second reference image many of the originals had little to no return edge. 1. 2. 3. Reference images Technically your ABS belt is correct- the bottom sits ".. at or just above the bottom of the ab button panels" but it could come up half an inch for a better look. We also noticed that when you raise your arms it slips down (second photo). Some Velcro on the rear would take care of that perfectly! Reference images Just a small detail here, but if you have the time and inclination your small ab-button plate could do with a trim. Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Since Centurion is the highest level of approval we have, this is the area where we go into a lot more details. Some of these will be relatively easy fixes, and a few will be more challenging. BUT, after looking at your build skills we feel completely confident that you can do it... and we can help! Keep in mind that in addition to the actual CRLs, we consider screen caps/reference images when approving at higher levels. As per the CRL, for Level 2 the tube stripes are "Ideally" located approximately a pencil width from the cheek. The right side is VERY close, but for L3 the left side needs to come in more. Reference images An easy fix here.. Just grab some black paint and extend the first 2 ribs of the vocoder up a bit. Reference images Although they could very well be there and we just can't see them in the photos, a thin (like ¼ inch) white elastic band is required to hold the shoulder bridges down. Reference images A quick strapping issue here: Again, we realize that you are a taller Trooper and we certainly do make exceptions in some cases, but if possible we would like to see the shoulder bells raised to where the tops are closer to the shoulder bridge. This would help minimize the gap(s) between them and the chest / back plates, (and another reason to raise the biceps). reference images Now for the most difficult issue: As you are probably aware, when using shims, the outside seam must be flush for Level 2. Looks like you got that part covered! For Level 3, however, the seam will need to be filled. It doesn't have to disappear 100%, but it should not be overly apparent. Some ABS paste and an hour or 2 of your time would make this look spot-on, and there are a few tutorials here on that exact issue. The CRL for Level 3 states that "Ideally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor". The key word there is "Ideally". As I mentioned, we make allowances, but we would like to see them a bit closer if possible. Maybe just a matter of tightening up the canvas belt. The screws on your TD are the correct type and in the right positions, but unfortunately they are way too large and will need to be replaced. I can send you set of the correct ones (no charge and I'll even pay postage, just PM me). Note that because of the shank diameter being smaller you may have to glue the clips to the TD and glue the new screws in. Easy peasy. Reference image As per the CRL, "The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45° angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt". You have a distinct advantage here because of where your square belt buttons are placed. All that is needed in your case is to trim the ends as shown below. 4 minutes with a razor knife and you are golden! Reference images After you trim the ABS belt ends, we need you to bring the drop boxes out to where the outside edge is in line with the outside edge of the ABS belt. Just move the strap(s) over and add a dab of E-6000 behind the elastic to hold them in place. Raising them up a tad to where the tops of the boxes meet the bottom of the ABS belt would help as well. As seen in the reference pic, there are no gaps on the lower ridge(s) of the thighs. I suggest gluing a small piece of ABS behind that gap. Filling the gap with ABS paste is optional, but preferred. Just a dressing issue, but the ridges at the top of the left calf should be completely closed, just like your right one. Reference image Last up! Like I mentioned in your thread- that is an AWESOME looking blaster. Many times we see lots of print lines, but we can tell that you took a lot of pride in that build. The only small issue is the silver weathering on the T-tracks. The originals were plastic, so I suggest grabbing some of your black spray paint and giving them a quick coat. And that's it, brother. You have some work ahead of you, but we would honestly like to see you tackle these issues. You have the skills and we are here to help, so I really hope to see your Centurion submission as soon as you are ready. Time to get out there and "shine" as the newest EI in the Diamond Garrison!!

Hi again, Jessie, and thanks for the updated pics!! Everything looks great, but we need one last fix before we can get that badge under your name. Although not specifically listed in the CRL (yet), the gaps on the rear of your thigh bottoms will need to be filled. They are pretty small, so we suggest just gluing some scrap ABS tabs behind them so that they aren't quite as obvious. Nice job on those mobility cuts btw! Reference images

Just one word comes to mind here Kris... WOW! Outstanding job on those fixes, brother!

OK, I'm gonna' say it... WOW! One of the best submissions I've seen in quite a while, Adam. GREAT attention to details, and I'm glad to see you went with the "double snap" method for strapping. Hang in there, sir, and one of us will be with you shortly.

I cannot agree more. RS makes a dynamite set of armor no doubt, but we have experienced a lot of ongoing issues with their commission builds for quite a while for those aiming for Centurion. Dan will not steer you wrong, though!

Perfection, Ben... excellent work on that!

Thanks, Matt! By the way, AWESOME job on that blaster.. no 3D print lines!

Hi Matt, and thank you for your submission for EI! One of us will be with ya' shortly, sir, but before we can get started we can get started we just need you to post up the pics and show a little love to the teeth paint as Glen mentioned. That is actually pretty easy to do.. Just use non-acetone paint remover, some toothpicks, cotton swabs and a paper towel or two. Should take you all of 15 minutes or less. Looking forward too seeing the results and your new photos!

I'll be moving back to FL. for good in a few months, so I will need new trading cards to replace my current ones. I have a new design in mind and the images, but I need someone to lay it out for the printer. If you have mad design skills and a bit of patience (with me, lol) please drop me a PM. Payment for your services can be cash (via PayPal) or swag. Thanks!

Hi Nichole, and welcome to the FISD! You are definitely in the right place for all things TK related. What I would suggest is that before purchasing anything, have a chat with your father about exactly what type of armor he is interested in (i.e. which film) as there are a lot to choose from as seen in the CRL Glen gave you a link to. Many may look similar, but there are distinct differences. Even in the first film there are 2 types, "Stunt" as worn by most TKs (the most popular costume in the Legion) and "Hero" as worn by Han and Luke. Once the particular costume is decided on, we have a ton of references, build threads and hundreds of fine folks to help you and/or your dad every step of the way on your white armor journey. Choosing the right armorer is very important. The vast majority of the costumes you find online (like ebay) are not 501st approvable, sad to say, so the vetted seller's list is your best bet. Since you may be purchasing the helmet first, I suggest using the same armorer for the rest of the costume as many times the color of the ABS plastic used may vary slightly from maker to maker. Know that we are here to answer any questions you may have, no matter how small... all ya' have to do is ask!

I'll admit I'm a bit partial () but you can always take it one step further and go HWT.

Looks fantastic, Chris! You kept the weathering off of the grip and T-tracks and didn't go overboard (sometimes less is more). Nice job, sir!

Here is a link that shows which photos we will need: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49703-ei-photo-checklist-updated-version-2020/ Looking forward to seeing your armor!

Glad to see you circling back, Jessie! We will be with ya' shortly, but a few things have changed in the CRLs in the last few years. We will go over everything in detail, and nothing you can't handle pretty easily!