justjoseph63

Yep, did the same thing to the ROTJ version I'm working on as well!

Hi Colin, and welcome back! Do you gave any return edges on those pieces? If so, they can be completely removed and will give you some more room. I have a thread here which may help. As Glen mentioned, photos will help a LOT.

I added this into the first post in case someone doesn't scroll down. THANKS!! If anyone has anything similar in a different country please let me know and I will add it in as well.

Definitely will be going with the straight promo style as I just bought an M-19 tank scope. All I have to do is grind down the muzzle tip, add a bit of bondo/clean it up and remove the D-ring mount. I will more than likely remove the raised section (below) but will keep the triangle section behind it. This is another reference presently in the ESB reference area that totally mystifies me: It's a real Sterling, but not ANH (M-19 scope). Scope is set WAY back. Scope rail is "solid" but not like ROTJ. Muzzle disk and D-ring/mount intact. No ESB greeblies. No T-tracks.. they are rectangular U shaped.

Since I will be submitting my next set of armor (ESB) up for approval early next year once I move back to Florida, I decided to make my last E-11 into a promo version. BUT.... in doing a ton of research, I have come up with a lot of questions re: the CRLs, screen caps and other references and would like to get some opinions before I "move along" and to clarify a few items for others who may be doing this build. Allow me to explain: Let's start with the L2 requirement: "Remove D-Ring mount As seen in the first two images below, D-rings were present, but in looking at the 3rd photo the red arrows show that in fact the majority had none, that there were no front "disks" at the muzzle end and that most of them look to be the "promo" types with the greeblies on the scope rail. Got it.. time to break out the Dremel and make some adjustments! Another requirement is that Remove magazine housing parts The only reference image I could find for this requirement are on the Pugman. All other images show them present in one way or another. Because of this fact I'm not sure this should to be a CRL requirement based on one particular type of E-11. Pugman Please don't take this the wrong way, and I hope someone with more knowledge of the Pugman than I have can step up and explain, but in addition to the absent magazine parts that particular scope is dissimilar to an actual M-19. The end cap is much wider/thicker and the top profile is not the same. I know it was created as a "background" blaster, but based on that distinctive scope it's profile gives it away, and I can't find even one screen cap showing one being used. I don't know where this refence photo came from originally, but it also shows the front disc and D-ring. Those of you who know me are aware that I can get a bit OCD and I just want to get it right- so if anyone can provide any insight or opinions I would be most grateful!

For those aiming for Centurion (or just looking to be more screen accurate) and have gaps in the lower thigh ridges, the usual way to fill them was ABS paste. That method (although tried and true) can take quite a bit of time, uses acetone and has be sanded down and polished afterward. Below is an alternative that should take less than 15 minutes and is super easy using a moldable epoxy called SUGRU (info. at bottom of this post). It is permanent, flexible, keeps it's color, will adhere to almost any surface and clean-up is a breeze. For those in Australia, a similar product that can be used is Loctite Kintsuglue (white) available at Bunnings. Link here. Thanks to Glen @gmrhodes13 for the heads-up! For this tutorial I will be using a mock-up of a thigh ridge as an example. Materials needed: 1. 1 packet of white SUGRU 2. Small scrap(s) of ABS or any thin white plastic. 3. Small straight-edge knife 4. Pliers (if using ABS) 5. Paper towel NOW LET'S GET TO IT! Step 1- Cut small shims as needed (photo 2) to cover the rear of the gap and give the Sugru something to adhere to. If using ABS, I suggest popping the scrap in boiling water for a few minutes to soften it up and allow it to conform to the correct shape (photo 3). This is where the pliers come in. It does NOT have to fit perfectly. Step 2- After you have the right shape, cut it to fit (photo 4). Step 3- Glue it in place (photo 5). CA (super) glue is fine for this as it will not be seen. DON'T WORRY ABOUT ANY TINY GAPS- the Sugru will fill them! 1 2 3 4 5 HINT: Wash your hands before using this product so you don't discolor it while applying. Step 4- Roll a small piece of the Sugru into a strip (photo 6) and then press it firmly into place (photo 7) filling the entire gap (don't forget the back side). Step 5- Using the knife edge, cut off the excess at an angle (photo 8), otherwise you may remove some of the filled area. Step 6- Wipe the edges with a paper towel to remove any residue (photo 9) being careful not to touch the filled area. 6 7 8 9 DONE! That was easy, right? Let it dry for 12 hours or so and you are good to go. Examples of filled gaps in screen used ridges SUGRU is available online or in many retail shops, but it is sold in sets of 3 packets- normally around $10.00. If you just need one, I can send you a single packet for $3.00 (my cost) in the U.S. or $3.75 outside the U.S.** This includes postage! PM me for details. **Available in the UK in single packets for £3.15- Link here. A big shout-out to Ben @Ebio Amisi for this idea!

In a perfect world they should lie concave against the glove and not convex like the ones you have. Will it stop you from higher levels? Not at all.

Looking GREAT, Ben.. NICE WORK! I must mention something about using the Sugru for those gaps, though, and it's just one word: GENIUS! I swear by this stuff, and it never dawned on me until now how perfect the white version would be to use for that purpose. MUCH easier than making ABS paste!

If there are any tutorials on a particular subject you are looking for just let us know. I have a few under my avatar below, but as Daniel mentioned, starting a build thread in this area (link here) is the best route. That way, you can (and should) ask all the questions you like in one place and post up photos of your progress. Posting photos is especially important if/when you have an issue, and we are here to help every step of the way!!

That's what I would suggest, Geoff. Getting the curve right may not be the easiest thing to do but it should work fine. If you feel up to it, posting up a few photos of the process and end result would be great and could very well help someone out who has the same issue!

Not to derail your thread here, but Adam is spot on with that suggestion. On my very first troop my shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection popped off, so I did 2 on each side. Overkill? Maybe, but I haven't had a problem since! That includes me, and I've been suggesting this ever since I had it happen. It's a little extra work, but well worth the effort and peace of mind.

SUPER nice job on this build, Chris! Lots of great attention to detail, and I am glad to see that you went with the double snap system.. you won't be sorry you took the extra time to do that. One comment on the ear placement, though: WOW! You absolutely NAILED it.. B-E-A UTIFUL!

In looking at some of their existing products the prices will probably be a LOT higher than Anovos. For instance, if someone from the RL was looking to do a Han costume, the jacket, shirt, pants and vest alone would be over $2,700.00. Seriously? The prices of the various buckets run from $600-700. Way high IMO so this doesn't bode well for a full set of armor, and they may price themselves out of the market.

Hi Dwight, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to EI! On behalf of the entire DO staff, congratulations!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Overall a great looking set of armor, sir! Just a couple of items here for ya': We are strongly suggesting that (if at all possible) you move the bottoms of the ears toward the back a bit. As of now they are sitting at about a 90° angle to the ridge/brow trim. Ideally, as seen in the reference images the angle should follow the rear angle of the trap above them, and the center of the round part at the top should sit directly below that line, hopefully covering the overlap join of the cap/faceplate. Is this a quick fix? Nope, but it should take less than 30 minutes and would give you a MUCH sharper looking bucket. Remember, it's all in the details at Centurion level. Reference images We noticed that your rear thigh cover strips are not lined up perfectly, but not to worry. The main thing we noticed is that the tops of the thighs could use a trim in the rear. You may or may not experience clicking noises when you walk from the points catching on the posterior plate, but from a comfort standpoint removing some of that will make mobility easier. Trust me. Suggested trim Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. First, don't be alarmed by all the photos below! Most are just quick painting issues, but there are a couple of items in particular that need some attention. We are asking that you take 30 seconds to tighten up the left bottom ear screw. Easy fix! Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk... Reference images Overall a really nice paint job on the vocoder, but we would like to see the top lines a little crisper/cleaner. A filbert style brush will make this an easy fix. Reference images A little "battle damage" is always going to happen and is expected, but for now we ask that you double-check your side rivets to make sure they are all painted for a much better look. Reference image You absolutely nailed the paint job on the large ab-button plate, but we are requesting that you touch up the sides of the ones on the smaller plate for a more rounded look. Reference images The gap in the bottom of your right thigh ridge is passable, but the left side will need to be less noticeable. An ABS shim glued behind it would take care of this nicely. If you would like to add some ABS paste (or even a little white silicone type filler) that would be even better! Reference images Last up.. you have an awesome looking blaster there, but the selector switch is missing! I know this is a small issue, but only the Bapty style E-11s did not have them (which are not permitted at L3). They are available online (example here) and will be pretty simple simple to install. Just drill a hole, glue it in and DONE! And that's it, brother! You have a little work in front of you, but we have every confidence that with your build skills (and our help if you need it) I can see a Centurion badge below your name in the very near future! YOU CAN DO IT!

Perfect! I am almost done with your review posted and will get it posted very soon. Thanks for your patience!

Nice job on those, Bobby. Nice job indeed!

Looking sharp as always.. way to go, sir!

Ideally there should be a space between the shroud and the "barrel" (PVC pipe), but as Dennis mentioned the PVC pipe probably won't fit into the body or the tip of the muzzle. Being flexible, the pipe won't offer much support (trust me), but you may be able to find an aluminum pipe or even a wood dowel that will fit inside it snugly and extend beyond the PVC that will add some strength. "I could use duct tape just on the parts that you can't see through the barrel holes. I was worried it would look bad, but there are sections where there are no holes to see through the barrel where I can put the tape without it showing." Because the holes in the DLT shroud are larger than those of an E-11, the T-tracks will only cover them partially, so be careful what you use so that it can't be seen. Side note: Depending on how detailed you want to get, note that in the screen used examples below that wire was used to hold the T-tracks in place.

Costumes are an addiction.. sort of like Cheez-its. It's hard to stop after just one.

Hi Adam, and thank you for your submission for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and CENTURION Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Centurion # 508. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Fantastic job on fixing those tube stripes, Adam, and we are pleased to welcome you to the ranks as the newest Centurion. WAY TO GO, BROTHER!!

Way to go Jessie!!!

Hang in there, Adam. I'll be with ya' as soon as possible!

Hi, Adam, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt EI! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. As I mentioned before, this is one of the best submissions I have seen in quite a while, brother. Great attention to detail and a super nice overall build, and just a couple of items here to go over: As stated in the CRL, the fall of the tube stripes should ideally face forward, but yours are on the wrong sides. Not a deal breaker, but when you apply for Centurion we really, really hope you will consider replacing those for a much better overall look. Reference images Just a heads up for your next build, but in a perfect world the rear thigh cover strips should be more in the center. Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Nothing to see here.... move along. Way to go, Adam, and I look forward to seeing your Centurion submission soon! Time to get out and show off that armor as the newest EI from the Dewback Garrison!

In looking at that awesome build, I'd say definitely. By the way, if when you see Gary sr. or Gary jr. (if you haven't met them yet, you will..) give them my best. I really miss my years in the Makaze Squad!

Nope, just slightly bad case of OCD. Forgot to mention the TX part, but I am thinking it's a reference to THX-1138. I really gotta' get out more often.