justjoseph63

Face it, brother... you have the eye for detail now and there's no getting around it.. (we should start a 12 step program for those of us who are bitten by this bug)!

Welcome, Kenny, and glad to have you here! We are here to help every step of the way with your build, so you are doing the exact right thing by posting up pics before permanently attaching the ears. Can you post up a side view for us? It looks like you haven't attached the cap to the face plate yet- which is a good thing. It will make it MUCH easier to cut out the teeth and finish cutting out the eye openings without having it as one piece, as it can get kind of unwieldy. Keep the questions (and photos) coming and never be shy about asking us anything, especially when in doubt. We are here for ya', and I look forward to seeing your progress!

I did the exact same thing with the aluminum "moon" and it has worked out great. I like the heft that the metal stock gives as well. "Note that tiny little sight. I'm trying to decide if I need to make a better one or if I can just overlook that itty bitty thing". Yeah, I would. I have always made my own by cutting the head off of a machine screw and then grinding down the end (you could use a metal file, though). Just Dremel off the old one, drill a hole and screw it in.. done deal. Crappy illustration, but you get the point, lol.

The good thing about silicone is that it is almost indestructible, stays flexible and will never turn yellow. I sell these (link) but postage is high to the UK (like £17). I believe Chris from the UKG may be your best bet, though and his run about £25 (shipped). link here

Way to go Garrett! Looking forward to seeing your Expert Infantry submission!

Front/Top greeb This was another part where I was not too happy with the design as it came (2). It did have the round bit on the right side with the 5 holes, but it was a bit too short, had the small bar in the center and lacked the small arc on the bottom of the front, so I ended up making one from scratch (3). Side note: This is the first SW weapon I have ever seen where they used phillips-head screws (1). 1 2 3

Really nice job on the trimming, Chuck, and I'm sure that belt sander saved you a ton of time! Looks like you took the right amount off of everything to start with, and the Dremel will be perfect for the detail trimming (wrist openings and such). Keep up the great work, and keep those photos coming!

As Glen said, don't go near it. Not just because there are dozens of issues with it's terrible details, but also the fact that it is way (and I mean WAY) overpriced. There are lots of "vetted" sellers listed in the thread he gave you a link to that can supply a fantastic kit for less money. You can also find kits on ebay etc. where you can pick up a set for a few hundred dollars, but you get what you pay for. Cheap re-cast garbage. Other advantages to purchasing from one of our "tried and true" sellers is that you know you are getting not just quality, but great customer service. Whoever you decide on, know that we are here for you every step of the way, from helping you find a kit to the build and beyond, so never be shy about asking questions. It's what we do here!

That weapon is looking fantastic, Gerald! I am thinking you read through my post here, but I would not suggest using the XTC epoxy on the shroud. The reason is that it is not very viscous and it will drip though the holes into the barrel inside and make a mess. After a thorough sanding with 200 grit, in addition to the Bondo glazing I just applied 2 coats of the primer/filler. Bada-bing, bada-boom. Ready for paint, but don't forget to cover the area where the T-tracks will be with tape first.

SUPER nice job on this build, Chris.. lots of great attention to detail! The only things I can suggest at this point are to rotate the shoulder bells back a little which will help close up the gap in the back, and maybe drop the left forearm down a bit so that the gaps between them and the top of the hand guards are the same on both sides. Once you get your Basic approval, I hope to see your submission for Expert Infantry!

Thanks! I'm no Vern, lol.. this has been a challenging (but fun) build so far and I've learned a lot about this under-rated weapon. The only part I'm concerned about is the U channels for the shroud when I get to that point. BUT....

Hammers These caused me the most trouble. The ones that came with the kit were the right size, but the design was off (top photo). So, time to start from scratch. After 3 tries I finally got it as close as I could (middle photo) to the reference image (bottom photo). Perfect? Nope. Close? I think so. I made a mold and cast them in resin so they would match.

This.... looks... FANTASTIC! Well worth all that effort, Adam. Your OCTKD is in full-on mode... (welcome to the club). Looking forward to the next batch of photos!

Thanks! This is what comes from having entirely too much time on my hands and an overindulgence in diet Mountain Dew.

The Greeblies First up is the one that is attached to the barrel to the rear of the magazine well. It is listed as a "Nakata Browning M 1935..replica firing block" (1). However, the one shown here (1) does not have all the characteristics of the screen used images, There are 2 small curves in the corners of the top opening and 2 holes in the front (2 & 3). The one I received with the kit was way too long and lacked many details, so .... 1 2 3 since these haven't been made in many years, I turned to the person who has imo the most accurate designs anywhere- Germain @The5thHorseman . His designs are legendary and he hooked me up with the file of what has to be the best representation you can get, down to the tiniest detail. (THANKS)! I had this printed, did some filling/sanding and of course I made a mold and cast it in resin. Next up, the hammers and top greeb.

Trigger area/Grip As seen in the first reference photo below (L2A3- ANH), the area under the selector switch has 2 levels, and the C1 version (second/third photos) is one solid piece. The last photo shows how this one looked at the start. To be honest, I was not going to touch this area... I mean, who the heck will notice something that trivial? ** And, the selector switch was printed onto that area. Ugh. But, as I went along (and even painted it) it bugged me to no end. So, I thought "In for a penny, in for a pound" and went to work. ** I would. Using a pointed Dremel attachment (2) I carefully drilled out the selector switch (3). The area was leveled out with the JB weld epoxy and sanded down (4). I wanted to get it a bit smoother so I used the Bondo glazing (5). Again, another sanding. I kept the selector switch, but had to add some of the epoxy to build up the bottom before filing/sanding it down (6). I drilled a hole in the switch and inserted a small nail, then drilled a hole in the area below it before attaching it back on. I still need a few coats of paint, but until then it looks passable (7). 2 3 4 5 6 7 On the right left hand side of the grip there is a hole to mount it to the base. In the L2A3 version this looks to be either a hex nut or a screw (1 & 2) depending on which reference you are looking at. BUT, the C1 has something different (3 & 4)). I used some black Sugru epoxy and a small ball bearing to get a similar effect. Again, a small detail but worth it IMO. 1 2 3 4 End result

Magazine well Another difference is the magazine well. The rear had the hole to mount the post that holds the grub screw and the raised triangle (3) on the side like ANH (2). After grinding down the triangle and filling the holes with JB weld (and sanding) it looks a lot closer. Reference 2 3 Finished

Rear sight This was fairly easy. Unlike the L2A3, the C1 version has tabs on the bottoms of each side, so some scrap ABS and a little filler took care of that. The sides appear to have socket-head cap screws in the centers, but they do not (at least as far as I can tell) go all the way through the sight (3). I cut down two (4) and just CA glued them into the holes. Done deal. Reference 2 3 4 Finished

End cap / clip The end cap clip on the C1 version is completely different than the L2A3 (as is the end cap itself). The clip on the 3D print (2) was not correct and integrated on the print, so I used the Dremel to remove it and ended up making one from scrap ABS (3). The bottom of the cap/D-ring mount (4) needed a small arc cut out (easy) and I added a rivet. Yes, I know I made the clip a bit too long and the arc a bit too deep. (I hope this won't affect me at Centurion level if I build a set of ROTJ armor). Reference 2 3 4 5

Folding stock mount As seen in the reference images, the stock mount is completely different than the L2A3 type. Starting with the existing mount (3), I built it up with the JB weld until I got it in the general shape I wanted (4). After sanding and to get the right shape, I removed the bottom (5) and added ABS pieces to the sides and bottom (6). References 3 4 5 6 End result

Too long! After joining the 3 pieces of the shroud, I noticed that it was actually about 5/8ths of an inch (3 cm) too long and the flash guard sat too far forward (2). After sanding down the outside and a few coats of primer/filler I cut it down (3). Holes were filled with the JB weld epoxy/sanded smooth and I had to make a new flash guard out of ABS (4). (5) shows the original position. Reference 2 3 4 5

Main body The kit came with inside tubes to join the 3 pieces. Since the majority of then inserts will not be visible, I only sanded/filled/sanded the area that will be seen.

Ejection port opening This was integrated into the print (2). I used the Dremel to remove it and sanded down the edges (3). The connector piece (4) fit perfectly inside, but I had to sand down a section (#4-in yellow) so that I could add the "front" of the bolt (5) made from an ABS scrap, but I made that part too long. It's glued now so no changing it. I used a galvanized nail with the end rounded off and the top removed for the bottom. Reference 2 3 4 5

I've had some extra time on my hands, so I decided to build this to round out my OT trilogy E-11 collection. Since finding an MGC blaster** is like locating the Holy grail, I found the closest 3D print I could. I'm not going to list the designer of the file as unfortunately there are many things that are not as accurate as I would like since it's the "Battlefront" version. I'm sure it would be fine for approval at all levels when built as-is, but as usual I have to push the envelope. Will it be 100% accurate? Not really, but since it will be used for display only I am hoping to get as close as I can. I have my work cut out for me, but I am looking forward to the challenge! Any comments/suggestions are welcome. ** This version is based on the Sterling Mark V Canadian C1 type as opposed to the British L2A3, so there are quite a few differences. Know in advance that this will be crazy pic-heavy, and since I have to alter so many parts I will do them in separate posts and add after completion I will add links to each one at the bottom of this post. This way it will be easier to skip to the item when needed. So, on with the show: Supplies: 1. JB PlasticWeld- (A must have. Can be drilled/sanded/painted). 2. Bondo Glazing & Spot putty- Awesome stuff. 3. Rustoleum Primer/Filler (sandable) 4. Rotary tool (Dremel type) 5. Sanding drums 6. Needle files 7. Sandpaper (80 to 400 grit) 8. Scrap ABS pieces 1 2 3 4 5 6 Here is the kit in it's raw form printed in PETG. I missed a few of the small items, but the majority can be seen. Two BIG shout-outs to: Caleb @ticopowell for not only printing this kit for me, but helping me with the designs. Germain @The5thHorseman for the precise greeblie file. You guys are AWESOME!

Just wait until you see the ROTJ version I have been plugging away at. WAY more involved... (I really do need to get a life).