justjoseph63

THANK YOU, Tim, for this comprehensive list! I am certain this will be an invaluable resource for those of us on our way to joining the ranks, and your timing is perfect! (I am putting in my TK/HWT application this weekend). I really hope this gets pinned, as it puts everything in a precise order and will be a great reference guide.

Hi Justin! I just attached the hard lenses in my AM 2.0 bucket the other day. BUT... The green lenses that come with this kit are the bubble type, and are intended for the HERO style build. If you are going for Stunt, you will need to use the green film in the cardboard tube, as the CRLs state that the helmet must have flat lenses. I ended up purchasing some hard flat green ones, (usually about 20 bucks) online. If you do go Stunt, and order the others, I found a GREAT product at Lowe's ( in thepaint counter area) called SUGRU. It has the consistency of Play-Doh, but is a glue. I just rolled it up like a small snake, pressed it in around the inside eye and pressed the lenses on. It's holding like a champ! There are other methods available, but with the uneven return edges on these buckets it worked out really well. No muss, no fuss. Just check the outside of the eye opening to see if any squeezes through, (easily removable before it dries). It take 24 hours to dry, just like E-6000, but I found it really easy. Hope this helps!! P.S. If you decide to use the green film provided, there are lots of great helmet builds on here that explain the best ways to attach that, but you might need use 2 layers, as it is not that dark.

The Hasbro conversion kit I ordered from them on ebay got here in 9 days, the full E-11 kit ordered directly through their site took 5 weeks. They would not respond to any inquiries,... BUT, the day after I contacted Paypal about the transaction taking over a month, and no tracking number, (required by Paypal), or communication, I suddenly got a response, and the kit shortly thereafter.

Yes, I thought I had searched everywhere, Mathias, but looked every place except the right one!

I honestly cannot fathom a Star Destroyer on the ground. Can you imagine the size of the landing gear on that thing?

Well, the pieces of the puzzle are falling in place! Steve (Gazmosis) was kind enough to clarify my questions about the ejection port (check) and small disk (check). Now all I need is a source for the cocking/reload handle. I know I could make it out of PVC, but the one in his photo with the cross-hatch pattern just looks entirely too cool. Anyone have any ideas or sources? Thanks!!!

Paul, if you (or anyone) are looking for the 2 basic parts in Tony's pack build, (Wedco oil pan and Pop-It containers) just let me know. For some reason, Amazon charged me twice when I ordered mine, (but did sent me 2 sets). I was going to return the second set, but haven't had the time. It cost me about $42.00 with shipping, but I will set someone up for $30.00 (including postage in the continental US) if it helps add another HWT to the ranks! PM me if interested, and I will get it out the next day via UPS.

You came through again, Steve, (as usual)! Now, I just have to find a cocking/reload handle. Many thanks, sir!

Hola! I received my DLT-19 from Slavefive recently, and it looks, well, AWESOME! I noticed on several of the build threads however that there is a "reload handle", which I would like to add to it. Also, in the CRLs, it said that it needs to have "an ejection port cover added and a small disk on the left side". I am still learning, so I am not certain this weapon actually has the last 2 items or not. Any info., especially detailed photos of these particular items and their placement would me most appreciated. THANKS!!

I think you have this one nailed, Tim! Wow... that E-11 sure looks familiar...

This is the last piece in my puzzle. All is complete except for these danged shoulder straps! Shooting for Centurion here, so they have to be perfect...

It's funny you should say that Mathias, because the exact same thing ran through my mind, so I did end up leaving a small gap around the upper eye for ventilation. Hardly (I hope Steve isn't reading this ) noticeable. I will edit the post I made on this.. GOOD CALL!

Hi all! Just discovered something on a trip to Lowe's, it's called SUGRU. It is a glue that you can knead like Play-Doh, and worked perfectly for attaching the hard lenses inside my bucket. It comes in small packets of 4, and was located on the paint-desk counter. Since the inside return edges (pre-cut) on my eye openings were not symmetrical, I thought this might work, and it certainly did. You just knead it for a few seconds, roll it into a strip, place it around the edge, put the lens where you want it, and press it up against both tightly. Like E-6000, it takes a 24 hours to dry, though, (as if we aren't all used to this), but it does not drip or run! The only thing is that I would recommend that you check the outside of the eye opening right after, in case some gets squeezed through, and wipe the lenses immediately. I did find that although it adheres really well, it is MUCH easier to get off than E6K. Hope this helps someone! Addendum: (Thanks to Locitus, It is advisable to leave a small gap somewhere around the lenses to allow for air flow, so that they will not fog-up.

Wow.. Didn't mean to open a can of worms here, but enjoying the lively discussion! First, please don't take this the wrong way, because I thoroughly appreciate all your advice, but I ended up doing something completely different. I went to Lowe's to buy the small screws to attach the lenses, and stumbled upon something called SUGRU. It is a glue that has the consistency of Play-Doh. Since the inside returns on my eye holes were not symmetrical, I decided to give it a try. I was able to mold it around the outside of the lenses and inside return edge, (SUPER easy), but, like E6000, it takes 24 hours to dry. It is holding like a champ. Again, thank you for all the input!!!!!! BTW, I am going to post this "discovery" in hopes that it may give another option to a fellow newb.

PERFECT information! I just checked out Steve's build, and since I have some leftover ABS, I am going to go that direction, but thank you ALL for the advice!

Never quite got to my goal of "All master of time, space, and dimension", so I became a sailor, then an artist/muralist, then a restaurateur, then a chef, and now I own a construction/remodeling company. Thinking about making a tool pouch out of ABS for my armor, and showing up at a clients door dressed as a TK. Just can't seem to figure out how to make a butt crack in my posterior plate.

I have a question for anyone who has trooped at Disney before... I should (knock wood ABS) be TK and HWT approved by then, but was wondering if it would be wise to go HWT, as I am not sure how long the actual troop is. Any advice?

Getting down to the nitty gritty now... I need some guidance on the best way(s) to install my hard plastic lenses if I may... I have checked a LOT of the tutorials, and they seem to use the long "film" type, and I am kind of stuck. I have dry fit, but not attached the faceplate yet, as I wanted to Plasti-dip it, (done), install the mesh for the teeth, (done), and I figured this would be easier to do this where I could see it better before putting everything together. I am leery of using super-glue, as I don't want it running onto the ABS or the lenses themselves. If anyone knows of a tutorial, or has any advice, I would really appreciate it. Many thanks...

Yes, Doopydoos works in mysterious ways... Ordered my Hasbro kit on ebay, took 9 days. Ordered my full E-11 kit straight from them, 6 weeks. I am thinking it has something to do with eBay's "feedback" policy. If you haven't already, I would use the wait time to get everything ready for your build.

Nice fix! I think you definitely dodged a bullet on that one... I have experienced a few small cracks myself, but nothing noticeable. One of the best tips I learned on here is that any sharp angle (like when I cut out the notches for my kidney armor) are a prime target for splits/cracks, so I rounded out the corner ever so slightly and re-enforced the backside with some spare ABS.

Yes, I think I will try to grab some extra ABS and experiment before trying it on the armor. Many thanks for the info!!!

Thank you so much, gentlemen!

Thanks for this post, Terry! I am toward the end of my AM 2.0 build, and this is one of the last things I have to do, so if anyone can help, THANKS!

I think we have all shared a bit of blood with our armor at some point.

Hi! I have to trim down the sides of my chest plate, and was wondering if I needed to re-add the return edge. Also, is it permissible to trim down the return edge on my lower thighs and top rear portions of the shin guards, (for comfort)? Thanks!