justjoseph63

Looks like like armor from 'maker of things" out of England. If so, I think the reason they didn't include the helmet is that it is enormous.

There you have it, Dave! Thanks for the info., Mathias, I think I will consider ordering one of these myself!

Also one of my thoughts, Ty... You know this FL. Heat can get intense. Too bad they don't have an area like we had on the 4th, but I suppose that would be impossible for 180 people!

Hola! I have a question for those who will be marching at SWW. I know that the Disney has a changing area for everyone marching in the parade, but what do you do with you with your armor bin after the parade if you want to go into the park afterward? Mine is pretty large, and I have a pickup truck, but it won't fit inside the cab, and I obviously can't leave it in the bed of the truck. Any suggestions? Thanks!!!!

A lot of the difference between rubber and resin as a choice depends on a few things, Dave. I have a resin E-11, and in my opinion the details are a little sharper than rubber, but it is more fragile. Often when trooping, you will be asked "Can I hold your gun""? If someone accidentally drops it, and resin ones can be damaged, (but are usually repairable). On the other hand, I have a Hyperfirm DLT-19 that could probably be dropped out of an airplane and survive. I did notice that it has a lot of great reviews, and, that the scope rails are made by Evilboy, who is a popular seller of great products here on FISD. If someone knows anything about this particular weapon/seller, it could be a great alternative to those (myself included) who have had to wait up to 6 weeks + to receive a resin kit from Doopydoos.

Duly noted, and added, Mathias, Thanks!

Be sure to check which kind of Gorilla glue you have, Brian. Some of them are only for porous surfaces, like wood.

I wish I had known about his post(s) during my build! I thought I looked everywhere, but apparently not. (Mine is not as fancy, but hopefully it will do for now!)

Looks really nice, Dan, thanks for the close-up! It may just be me, but it seems that the opening on the far left is a bit smaller than the one on the far right. If you want, I would suggest 2 things... You can pick up a set of "Needle Files" from Lowe's or similar. They come in sets of 6, have different shapes, i.e. round, triangle, half-round, flat, etc., and are PERFECT for the teeth openings. As a bonus, they only run about 4 or 5 dollars, depending on the brand. Also, try some 3M silicone sandpaper, (220 grit). You can bend and shape it, and roll it around the files for sanding, and it will never rip.

Steer WELL CLEAR of the Wal-Mart snaps, Kal. They are crazy cheap for a reason. They are, well, cheap. I used these at first, trying to save some money, and ended up having to replace every single one. On a side note, I learned something from a Centurion friend that helped me out a lot, (thanks, Gary)! Instead of gluing the female part of the snap on to small ABS plates, (they kept popping off) and then onto your armor, I permanently attached the female snap to a piece of 1 inch wide Nylon strap, and then used Hobby Linc CA glue to attach that to the armor. Problem solved. Completely!

That is a little surprising, Andrew! I got my Hasbro conversion kit in about 2 weeks when I ordered it on ebay, but my full kit took almost 6 weeks when purchased through their site. I had NO responses from them until I finally contacted Paypal and asked them to look into it. then, SURPRISE, I got an email from them the next day. Apparently they don't do tracking numbers, which is strange, because the person I spoke to at Paypal said they require one for verification of delivery purposes. I would consider this option, and hope it works out for you... Or you could go Hyperfirm or other options...

I had the exact same problem with the rotating thing, Joe... What I did was to use some I inch thick foam strips inside. I used 2 inch wide in the front (toward the top section) and 1 1/2 inch wide shorter pieces on the sides, and it has worked out great, no more shifting! Just "dry-fit" them with blue tape first until you get the desired effect. I wouldn't recommend gluing them in, as they can absorb sweat, and eventually start to smell a bit. I used Velcro, so I can remove/replace them down the road.

Looking good, Dan! And yes, invest in at least 4 to 6 (or more) good clamps, as you will need them when you start on your armor. If possible, could you get a more close-up pic of the teeth?

Great idea on the tongue depressors, Joe, (added)! My E-6000 came with a nozzle! I chose the carpet sample as a suggestion because floor space in my house is limited at best, and my dog might find armor an interesting chew toy As far as the rivets, I did not want to show favoritism by listing particular vendors, and cause myself any grief, i.e. "Why didn't you list ME..."? Blue tape is #23. As for the screws, I listed ones that will be acceptable at all levels. The counter sunk machine screws will work just peachy, but for Centurion, they have to be the slotted ones as shown in the photo below, and since the heads are painted black, steel ones are fine. My reasoning was that it is easier to use this type in the beginning, and if you want to go to higher levels down the line, you are already ahead of the game. Yes, I think I must have gone through about a dozen Michael's coupons, but since there are future TKs all over the world, I left this out. Good call for those of us near one, though, and many thanks for the input! Looking forward to trooping with you soon here in central FL.! --------

Nice work, Brandon! I wish I had the room on the original post to describe everything in detail, but it would end up being longer than "War and Peace"! I am so glad to see people adding to this in with additional info. Thanks!

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

As far as I am aware, it is permitted for a TK to carry a DLT-19 and an E-11 as a "side-arm" of sorts. (I have done it). The only time I know for sure that an E-11 is not permitted is when I troop as a HWT. We don't even wear the holster for it. Doopydoos- You will like the kit, Brett. If you ordered it off of ebay, it should take about 2 weeks. If you ordered it off of their website, it can take up to 5 weeks. Just a heads-up.

Done and done! Thank you, Steve!!!!

I can only give my 2 cents worth on Imperial boots, Mike, but I have had no problems with mine. They held up great on an 8 hour troop at Disney, (7 hours of standing/marching), but like Wes said, I recommend an insole. The customer service/communication was great, and I got mine 10 days after ordering.

Yes, that does look a tiny bit bunched, but you can stretch it a little. Nice job on the build, looks awesome!

Are you going for EIB or Centurion, Joe? If so, you will need the cover strips on the back. You can go a bit wider on these, (mine are 25mm), which allows you to attach it to the armor, and leaves enough to attach Velcro to. Also, don't forget that the overlap opening is on the inside.

This is one I have always wondered about, Karin. I could never quite figured out what it's actual use is, (or was), since it's on the outside. Would be interesting to learn, though, if anyone knows it's origin.

Thanks for Pinning this!

Good eye, Karin, thanks!! Noted and changed.

Thanks for the kind words, Ken! I remember what it was like jumping around from post to post, trying to figure out everything I would need. Hopefully this makes it a bit easier for those embarking on their first build.